Hardtop replacement for Binimi

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Slowmo

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2018
Messages
453
Location
United States
Vessel Name
Esprit
Vessel Make
40' Tollycraft tricabin diesel
Hi, our bridge enclosure is the standard Sunbrella type which fully encloses the bridge. I'm wondering what people's experiences and recommendations are for replacing the canvas roof with a lightweight hardtop. I emphasize light since this is pretty far off the CG of the boat so adding weight this high isn't a great idea. I know FG is used but this is heavy. What have people used?

I'm not looking to walk on it, just to cover roof with something rigid and durable that can support solar cells and have the side windows attached to it.
 
Hi, our bridge enclosure is the standard Sunbrella type which fully encloses the bridge. I'm wondering what people's experiences and recommendations are for replacing the canvas roof with a lightweight hardtop. I emphasize light since this is pretty far off the CG of the boat so adding weight this high isn't a great idea. I know FG is used but this is heavy. What have people used?



I'm not looking to walk on it, just to cover roof with something rigid and durable that can support solar cells and have the side windows attached to it.



Have looked into and have read several threads of boaters that purchased and were pleased with Hard-2-Top . . . A modular top that uses your existing Bimini frame . . . Solar panels work great with this product.
 
Have looked into and have read several threads of boaters that purchased and were pleased with Hard-2-Top . . . A modular top that uses your existing Bimini frame . . . Solar panels work great with this product.

My google-fu skills are sucking. Do you have a link you can post? That would be cool on my MS Pilot 30!
:thumb:
 
Unfortunately Hardtotop has closed up due to lack of raw materials. We have put them on 2 different boats. We really liked them. Their site was hardtotop.com. Maybe they will reopen? We also put a hardtop on a previous boat that was made by Atlantic Towers. They are fiberglass and aluminum. Fairly lightweight but also a bit more pricey.
 
Some tops have a very thin skin glass covering....the CG change is very small in the big scheme of things.
 
Atlantic Towers quoted me a hardtop for our new boat that measured 10’6”x11’ and it would only weigh 200 pounds.
 
Some interesting ideas. A couple hundred pounds is probably OK, after all we've offloaded hundreds of pounds of junk that the PO left including a heavy freezer up on the flybridge.
 
I have considered a hard top for my boat, but as it is now, I can fold the bimini down in about a minute to go under bridges that I would otherwise have to wait for, sometimes 30 minutes or even an hour.

It's something to consider.
 
We spec’d a hard Bimini with solar on top for our last boat. Used divinylcell and woven then gelcoat. Strong enough to walk on allowing servicing wind generators, solar, gps pucks and antennas mounted on it. Weight was a negligible increase. Also put in a window to view the sky with a removable cloth covering underneath. Add in tracks to allow complete enclosure for cool weather cruising and you have the complete package. We designed in very strong stainless steel supports but in respect may have been better served with Aluminum. Not a trivial expense and one and done so it’s worth the time to think it through in detail. Still, very glad we did it. Good luck.
 
While true a fold down bimini comes in handy, looks like the OPs boat has a mast.


I have gone through the handwringing too of if I keep the bimini, I can also lower the mast and sneak under a few bridges.


There lies the handwringing.... the times I feel like lowering the mast and the few bridges it made a difference in lowering the bimini.... do they make up for the options of a hardtop?
 
I had Atlantic Towers build a hardtop for me about 6 years ago and very pleased with the top and weight not an issue. The only issue was the cost and while I am glad I did it it was $6,000.00 6 years ago and I did the install myself
 
Atlantic Towers Hardtop with 12 SunPower Solar Panels

Bought the Hardtop from Atlantic Towers 16' 4" x 13' for the 50' Chris Craft Constellation and it covers entire Flybridge Area...12-100 Watt Sun Power Solar Panels included...very happy with the outcome.

Also adding a The Dinghy Butler mounted on the transom next...hull is bow-heavy so this will help getting up on plane and cruising.

4-Zone Mini-splits next...

Mikeflyme
 

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I owned a Symbol 41' Sundeck MY which had a stock patio cover made of 3" styrofoam foam core with aluminum on the top and bottom. This was sturdy enough to walk on. We mounted a 15,000 BTU RV air conditioner on the top, along with search light and air horns. The edges were covered with fiberglass/epoxy, and painted. Most of the framework was repurposed from the Bimini soft top frame. It was light enough that two people could carry it (If no wind)...It served us well for 3 years. I have followed the boat for another 15 years and that top is still on it. The biggest negative is that the top was flat--no camber. Water never was a problem however. We had aluminum bolt rope channels epoxy and screwed for the side curtains.
 
I lost my canvas bimini in a storm but wanted to keep the frame.
Laid 2 off 4'x8' plastic shower panels from Home Depot on a concrete floor, laid 2 layers of 1.5oz glass and when finished, bolted it to the frame using pipe clamps. Now have 8 x 100 watt flexible solar panels up there and am very happy. Hindsight would tell me I should have bought a 3rd shower panel to make it a bit wider but it works and it's light.
 

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I built mine with 3/8" marine ply with 2x2" hardwood edging. A couple coats of epoxy before painting.
Rather than the bimini frame, I just used two straight 1" stainless posts for support, which is much more solid for walking on.
 
You are by no means limited to Sunbrella.
There are some really tough fabrics available that can be used for Bimini tops.
Herculite comes to mind, and the stuff that they make commercial building and stadium covers out of.
These can help retain the advantages of a soft top, last practically forever, and will be exponentially cheaper to build and install.
 
In the process of building an aluminum top ,2 inch schedule 80 pipe 1/8 inch aluminum sheet .trying to decide whether I wanna paint it or just natural aluminum. anyways I’ve got probably $2000 in material quite a bit of Work and fab time. It weighs 250 pounds give or take 10 pounds I don’t know that I would do it again but I’m all in . Oh yeah it’s 8 feet wide 11 feet long made to extend my pilot house roof , back to cover the cockpit. Just as a sidenote you could get rid of your flybridge then you wouldn’t have to worry about putting a roof over it. I know you guys just love your fly bridges last two trawlers I’ve owned I removed the fly bridges , call me crazy makes for a much better looking boat in my opinion just my Opinion . Look at all the money you would save and work keeping it up all so you can set up a little higher . oh not to mention removing the big sail you have on top of your boat ,won’t miss the wind pushing you around
 
Scooby...
I'm with you on improved lines of boats w/o fly bridges but lots of sentiment the other way... at least for practicality if not looks. We get many comments about the look of our MS 34HT.

Here is a related DIY hardtop thread FYI
https://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55249
 
Last edited:
building hardtop

I'm a composite guy having designed and built boats forever, some submarines, airplanes, rockets, worked on AC campaigns and even a bit on satellites. Building a light weight hardtop is pretty easy, I am currently building one for our Grand Banks 36, it's roughly 9' x 9' with a weight of only 41 pounds, (NOTE: this did not include the legs, that adds another 10 pounds or so). The construction is carbon fiber and Nomex honeycomb. It works out to under .5#/sq. ft. and is easily strong enough to stand on. I installed hard points to attach 4- SunPower 170 Watt solar panels. I am running the power cables through the legs into the flybridge. Carbon fiber and Nomex honeycomb aren't the only options available, fiberglass and balsa core could also be viable and easily under .75 pounds/sq. foot.

Molds can be easy or hard. If you have only a 2D "developable" surface, it's pretty easy. By "developable", I mean it's a surface you can get by bending a sheet of paper or plywood. In other words, it doesn't have compound curves. I often use melamine finished Masonite or better yet, "FRP" sheets from the lumber store. These are flexible sheets for use in shower enclosures and are pretty inexpensive. I wanted a bit more of a sculpted look so I did curve it in 3D. I added foam blocks to the front of the mold then sanded it to shape, fiberglassed it then covered everything in Teflon mold release film. The film is only a few thousandths of an inch thick so the inevitable creases and folds are easily filled with putty or primer. Since I was using honeycomb, vacuum bagging is a must and it's best to use that on foam or balsa but you could get by without vacuum.


Attached are some photos of the mold for my hardtop and the hardtop with the teak consoles. I added teak consoles forward and on the sides for reading lights and to hide wiring for the lights, radar and solar panels. These are nearly the weight of the hardtop alone but add a lot of panache in my opinion and make for a lot better lighting. Also note that at the front is the mount for the radar.

I am waiting for the custom color paint to come from Alexseal then I can spray and mount the hardtop. BTW, Alexseal is my favorite brand of paint. It's as glossy and easy to apply as Awlgrip but can be touched up and repaired. Awlgrip is a wonderful product but you can't buff it to match the original.

I will be making some more hardtops from this mold this winter depending on time available and interest. You can contact me at dan@pegasusaeromarine.com if you are interested or have questions about making a hardtop.
 

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