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Old 01-07-2019, 09:17 PM   #21
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I have something similar aboard (pillow block bearing) between packing gland and an universal joint on engine side. Mine run between 120 and 140 F. I grease it once a year before going back in the water.

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Old 01-08-2019, 06:22 AM   #22
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I have something similar aboard (pillow block bearing) between packing gland and an universal joint on engine side. Mine run between 120 and 140 F. I grease it once a year before going back in the water.

L

You probably have a thrust bearing mounted to the hull also. Proper gear IMHO! / Len
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Old 01-08-2019, 06:44 AM   #23
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You probably have a thrust bearing mounted to the hull also. Proper gear IMHO! / Len
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Not exactly an aquadrive, here is my setup:

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On the right the pillow bearing, on the left the dual universal joint (cardan).

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Old 01-08-2019, 08:00 AM   #24
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My Bruno & Stillman has a carrier bearing, intermediate bearing, or whatever you want to call it. It is a pillow block style, same as what is pictured in this thread. The bearing keeps the shaft from whipping (vibration from deflection at higher RPM). As mentioned, it does need to be greased and checked for wear. Basically, you need to try to move the shaft shaft side to side, or up and down to check for wear. Also turn the shaft to check for smoothness in the rotation of the bearing. As a cautionary note, the one in my charter boat doesn't have a long life expectancy. Ideally it should have roller bearings as opposed to ball bearings. Due to the location limitations, a roller bearing pillow block won't fit. So, I've replaced it a number of times. This is unusual and likely not a problem you should have.

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Old 01-08-2019, 04:00 PM   #25
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Put an automatic grease system on like this (McMaster Carr) and you won't have to worry about it.
.
You will when it runs out of grease.

Personally, I prefer to manually grease mine as it gives me a reason to look down that hole sooner rather than later and see if there are any issues.
I give mine a few pumps every couple of months.
Grease is cheap, bearings are not.
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Old 01-08-2019, 04:43 PM   #26
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You will when it runs out of grease.

Personally, I prefer to manually grease mine as it gives me a reason to look down that hole sooner rather than later and see if there are any issues.
I give mine a few pumps every couple of months.
Grease is cheap, bearings are not.
Mine still had grease in it after 9 years.
I also had made a plexiglass window over the bearing so it was easy to inspect.
The other advantage is that the spring pressure makes sure moisture can't get in. The same way bearing buddies work on a trailer.
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Old 01-09-2019, 06:49 AM   #27
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If someone has an Aquadrive system , the units last longest with minor out of alignment , as it helps lubricate the units.

Don't ask how I learned this!
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Old 01-10-2019, 09:23 AM   #28
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Bearing heat bears further investigation...

To me, the biggest clue here is that "the bearing was replaced in 2015". The question then is why was it replaced?

It seems to me that if the prop shaft and engine alignment are correct, this bearing should have very little load on it, and (if properly lubricated) there should not be enough friction to produce much heat.

The missing part of this equation is, what is the ambient temperature at the location of this bearing?

Assuming ~70 degrees ambient, it takes a VERY great deal of heat to raise the temperature of your shaft ~ 30 degrees, and raise the temperature of the housing ~50 degrees. All of that heat is coming from friction. Remember that rise in Temperature = Heat x Mass.

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu...ermo/spht.html

So...given the history of failure of this bearing, I would investigate this further. I think that both the shaft and the housing should be running pretty close to the ambient temperature. Either the bearing is running too dry, or it is running under too heavy a load, or probably both. Don't let the (relatively) low temperatures you are measuring fool you. The shaft is acting as a massive heat-sink and it is absorbing and carrying away a LOT of heat.


My guess is you are going to find some shaft misalignment somewhere...


Good luck!
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Old 01-10-2019, 10:56 AM   #29
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I am surprised that it has an open bearing. Most bearings today are sealed.
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Old 01-12-2019, 07:38 AM   #30
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"So...given the history of failure of this bearing, I would investigate this further."


Best guess it was under water.
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Old 01-12-2019, 11:36 AM   #31
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"So...given the history of failure of this bearing, I would investigate this further."


Best guess it was under water.



Makes one question whether ball/roller type bearings(sealed? or not) should ever be used in a marine environment. They are very susceptible to rust.
Perhaps there is a reason for using babbit type bearings instead. Ref. post 19.
Len
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Old 01-12-2019, 02:30 PM   #32
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Mine run about 85 degrees
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Old 01-14-2019, 03:45 PM   #33
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Unless the bearing is hot to the touch it's probably fine. I wouldn't change it out unless you see the temperature trending up over time.

Some bearings run warm their whole life and last just as long as the identical one next to it running at half the temp. As a millwright, I've always looked for temp and vibration trends in bearings as the surest indication of imminent failure. Keep an eye on it and record the running temps for a few weeks. If it's rising swap it out.
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Old 01-14-2019, 05:49 PM   #34
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Gibble Bearing

I also have a Sundowner Tug. The fitting you are talking about is a carrier bearing. I check for grease every 100 hours of use ( more frequently when I was getting used to it ). I keep a loaded grease gun aboard.
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Old 01-14-2019, 05:54 PM   #35
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.... I keep a loaded grease gun aboard.
Do you need a license for it? I have one too,steering gear,windlass,bow roller etc, have grease nipples/zerks.
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Old 01-14-2019, 06:13 PM   #36
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122 degrees by itself isn't too high, but I'd be concerned over the cause. You might want to "listen" to the bearing. Fret corroding due to lack of lubrication or moisture in the bearing will create "Flats" on the balls and "holes" in the contact angle which will generate heat and give an audible rumble.

I'm assuming that your Tug is like ours with the 2 cutlass bearings, intermediate bearing and transmission flange. A miss alignment can be another cause of a "hot" bearing.

Our intermediate bearing was new last year and runs at about 100 degrees after 1 hour and holds steady.

Our WOT is 2,800 rpm with about 1,500 rpm max. at the shaft. However, we normally run in the 1,200 to 1,800 rpm (5 to 6 kt) range so this could effect our readings.
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Old 01-14-2019, 07:41 PM   #37
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I also have a Sundowner Tug. The fitting you are talking about is a carrier bearing. I check for grease every 100 hours of use ( more frequently when I was getting used to it ). I keep a loaded grease gun aboard.
Good choice of boat! Welcome aboard
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Old 01-15-2019, 09:42 AM   #38
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You can also overfill the bearing with grease, also causes heat so take care not to fill that much or too often
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Old 01-15-2019, 10:08 PM   #39
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Put an automatic grease system on like this (McMaster Carr) and you won't have to worry about it.

I put one of these on my "ex" an old 34 Mainship as the fitting was hard to get to. I used a length of hydraulic hose to get it to a handy location.

I also had on of those go bad...it squeaked (when I went into reverse) and rumbled. If it's quiet don't worry about it.
The grease fitting is for the grease between the pillow block and the outside of the cage of the bearing, for misalignment only, crooked shaft. The bearing itself is a sealed bearing.
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Old 01-16-2019, 07:50 AM   #40
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The grease fitting is for the grease between the pillow block and the outside of the cage of the bearing, for misalignment only, crooked shaft. The bearing itself is a sealed bearing.
I know this and....?
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