First Haul Out qs

[NWboater2]

Hello all — just hauled the still pretty new to us 05 gb 42 Europa, at Nordlund in Tacoma.

Primary list is:
-seahawk bottom paint
-service abt/Trac stabilizers
-service( and upgrade props for) Sidepower bow and stern thrusters
-replace tides shaft seal, install spare
-replace spurs line cutter, probably with shark, and add dunce cap anode
-service rudder and steering
-prop speed

First question- am I missing anything that I should address out of the water

And, when they cleaned the prop there are some I think relatively minor pitting. Pic attached. Project manager is checking with prop guy but first thought is it’s okay. Thought I’d see what the collective wisdom is on this one though. What do you think? Okay for now? Thanks!

[SeaDogAK]

You didn’t say zincs but I assume they’re on your list.

[NWboater2]

Yes replacing zincs (apparently done not too long ago but not 100%) and adding one at the aft end of the shaft.

Another q I guess is, what all should I have them prop speed? Prop and shaft and the stabilizer plates (previously done in good shape). Do I do the stainless piece that goes from the aft end of the keel to the bottom of the rudder too? They said “we could”
Thanks

[Caballero II]

Originally Posted by NWboater2

Hello all — just hauled the still pretty new to us 05 gb 42 Europa, at Nordlund in Tacoma.

Primary list is:
-seahawk bottom paint
-service abt/Trac stabilizers
-service( and upgrade props for) Sidepower bow and stern thrusters
-replace tides shaft seal, install spare
-replace spurs line cutter, probably with shark, and add dunce cap anode
-service rudder and steering
-prop speed

First question- am I missing anything that I should address out of the water

And, when they cleaned the prop there are some I think relatively minor pitting. Pic attached. Project manager is checking with prop guy but first thought is it’s okay. Thought I’d see what the collective wisdom is on this one though. What do you think? Okay for now? Thanks!

Haul out starts with:

Bottom Paint
Check shaft and prop, bearings, alignment and seals
Check rudder, shaft, bearings and seal
Service or replace all thru-hulls, remove any extra, if possible
Any other underwater appendages, such as thrusters and the like.

Personally, I always service the anchor and rode while I'm out of the water and there's plenty of time for me to do that. Renew or replace anchor, chain depth markings, chain, rope rode, swivels, etc. Then anything you can think of to do personally to do, since you're on yard time anyway.

Then comes the new stuff that you want to do that is better done on the hard by you or the yard crew.

The most important thing I can add is to be very hands-on and involved. For example, yard guys will be given an assignment to cut-in a new thru-hull or something, and not think about involving you with the placement. I've lost more space to put my feet in my engine room, because I was not there to approve, [U]or[U] not, to my great eventual regret. They don't care, they just want to get the job done. In the end, you will have to live with it, so make sure it makes good sense to you and yours. They have no idea about how you get things done on your boat. You have to protect that.

[NWboater2]

Good advice thanks. I’ll add through hulls to the list.
Didn’t want to invite thread drift re anchors, I’ve read a few of those.
But- Boat has a lofgrens tigress 1200 windlass and a 60 lb CQR with a slightly bent shaft. All chain not sure of size or length. It is a Good time to address that.
I’m leaning toward either a sacra excel #6 or a Vulcan. Spade is out due to the rust issue. Not interested in a roll bar for a couple reasons one of which is it won’t fit.
Any concise thought on that choice and appropriate size for a typical gb 42? (39000 lbs). Appreciate it.

[NWboater2]

Hey unrelated but I’m parked right next to an 02 sister ship named Gipper, based in Tacoma. Is that person a member here by any chance? She’s at the other end of her haul out, looking good.

[Insequent]

Glad someone mentioned though hulls to add to your list, and eliminating some if possible. I got rid of 10, a few of which were from the saltwater heads days long before I bought the boat.

In your colder water prop speed may not be absolutely necessary, but will be beneficial none-the-less. In my climate (similar to Florida) I find that propspeed does much better on rotating parts (props and to lesser extent shafts) than other metal. On my rudders I still got barnacles. It needs some speed on the surface, either from boat speed or rotation, to exceed the capacity of the stuff to cling on. So these days I use a metal primer and normal antifoul on struts & rudders.

[DDW]

Two Spades, oldest one 14 years and used a lot, no rust on either one.

On the original question, I would certainly not replace that prop. It's fine.

[North Baltic sea]

Hi,

I think the holes are caused by the cavitation phenomenon.


they are still in good working condition.


NBs

[SIBERNUT]

Based on my current and past boats, find the bilge drain. Be sure it's bonded, open it and dry out/ clean bilge.

[Bmarler]

Originally Posted by NWboater2

Yes replacing zincs (apparently done not too long ago but not 100%) and adding one at the aft end of the shaft.

Another q I guess is, what all should I have them prop speed? Prop and shaft and the stabilizer plates (previously done in good shape). Do I do the stainless piece that goes from the aft end of the keel to the bottom of the rudder too? They said “we could”
Thanks

Prop speed works best on moving parts and parts that get a ton of water flow. Prop, and shaft would be my targets. Personally I wouldn’t do the rudder shoe, but I guess you could.
That’s a good yard with good people managing the projects. Just be clear about what you want, they’ll do it right.

[Pete Meisinger]

Probably cavitation. Those pits can be repaired. Talk to an expert regarding prevention.

pete

[NWboater2]

Good morning. Thanks for the good replies - it’s like pulling up a crab pot and seeing some keepers!

I was wondering it those pits might be cavitation will know more soon. I have not seen a “plug” in the boat will look and map the thru hulls while I’m at it
Good info on the spade anchor seems like a winner if it lasts.
Sounds like prop speed for the prop but not the shoe. Makes sense with the response from them too. Appreciate it.
I’ll head over this afternoon get some more info and think of some new qs.

[Flatswing]

I’m leaning toward either a sacra excel #6 or a Vulcan. Spade is out due to the rust issue. Not interested in a roll bar for a couple reasons one of which is it won’t fit..[/QUOTE]

I put a Vulcan on my GB36 classic after the Rocna rollbar wouldn’t fit. On my present DeFever 49, I put a big Spade. I loved & trusted both. No rust on the Spade after 3 seasons of regular use. In my cruising grounds, vigorous, reversing currents are the norm. It’s so nice to have a hook that resets so dependably,
Both manufacturers have template info on their web sites so you can make a plywood or similar mock up.

If you have a short distance from winch to pulpit nose pulley, or intend to use a chain lock, I expect the Vulcan would fit better. The Spade has a longer shank which may be problematic with a short foredeck/lpulpit.

[NWboater2]

Good insight thanks
The existing 60 cqr has a long shank. I think most anything without a roll bar would fit better

[Caballero II]

Originally Posted by Flatswing

I’m leaning toward either a sacra excel #6 or a Vulcan. Spade is out due to the rust issue. Not interested in a roll bar for a couple reasons one of which is it won’t fit..

I put a Vulcan on my GB36 classic after the Rocna rollbar wouldn’t fit. On my present DeFever 49, I put a big Spade. I loved & trusted both. No rust on the Spade after 3 seasons of regular use. In my cruising grounds, vigorous, reversing currents are the norm. It’s so nice to have a hook that resets so dependably,
Both manufacturers have template info on their web sites so you can make a plywood or similar mock up.

If you have a short distance from winch to pulpit nose pulley, or intend to use a chain lock, I expect the Vulcan would fit better. The Spade has a longer shank which may be problematic with a short foredeck/lpulpit.[/QUOTE]

So, I might disagree. Back before the Rocna Vulcan came out, we wanted to replace our claw, since it did drag until finally I had to cut it loose and run the engine all night to stay in my hole until winds abated. Had to come out the next week with a boat US diver, who retrieved my anchor and chain.

Hey! I'm 71 years old.

So, I got a Rocna with roll bar, fitted it to the pulpit with high density plastic fittings on the underside of the bowsprit, so it sucks up tight, and doesn't wag or wiggle. Wasn't much of a project, and you can make it work on a GB 36. I love this anchor, in spite of what the anchor tester has found. In our bottoms on the Cal Channel Islands substrate, they work pretty well. We don't drag any more. I might try a Vulcan sometime, but not high on the list yet.

[Flatswing]

[QUOTE=Caballero II;1164450]I put a Vulcan on my GB36 classic after the Rocna rollbar wouldn’t fit.

So, I got a Rocna with roll bar, fitted it to the pulpit with high density plastic fittings on the underside of the bowsprit, so it sucks up tight, and doesn't wag or wiggle

Just to be clear: I used the Rocna for a season but sold it before it cracked my FRP pulpit on the GB36. The Vulcan (by Rocna) was a perfect fit (since it was designed for thru pulpit installations). It saved my a** a couple of times so I came to trust it equivalent to the Rocna & my present Spade.
Really all the modern anchors perform extremely well in most substrates compared to the traditional versions. Use whichever fits your boat. Personally, I favor quick resetting since I anchor in high reversing current locations so often.