fenders - 1 hole or 2?
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Comodave
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I like the fenders with a hole in each end. I splice a line on one end to hang them vertically. When I need to hang them horizontally then I add a fender whip on the other end. But I don’t keep the whips on the fender all the time because they drag on the deck and just get in the way.
C lectric
Guru
I bought new fenders last year. They are the one through hole type. I like them better than my older fenders which had the ear with the hole on each end.
I made washers for the one hole type for the rope to be secured to so it was not just the knot in the line that held the fender.
The washers were 1/2" grey Starboard about three inches OD and a hole appropriate for the fender but not loose.
I am not knocking my old fenders, two ears, almost 40 year old Taylors. They stood up well to the use and physically going strong. They were white and were looking their age. Long past the many paint jobs I had done to spruce them up. I was just tired of them.
The new ones are black and they too will be abraded and become dull but the dirt even though ground in will not show as badly or as soon.
They do need a knot at the top and the BOTTOM. The bottom knot , if you don't make a washer , MUST be a big stopper. I have found these fenders over the years where someone saved couple bucks on line diameter and an inadequate stopper knot floating without a line.. Of course they were always too small so I gave them away.
As far as drawbacks they both have those. I bought comparable sizes but the one through hole type has slightly longer usable length but are a couple pound heavier and my wife finds them just a bit harder to handle.
I guess one thing I note about the new fenders is even with the washer and the big knot I can secure them a bit closer to the water. THere is no big ear dipping into the ocean, except as the boat rocks, to collect fouling.
Simply make your choice as either will serve you well if you get good mfgrs units.
I made washers for the one hole type for the rope to be secured to so it was not just the knot in the line that held the fender.
The washers were 1/2" grey Starboard about three inches OD and a hole appropriate for the fender but not loose.
I am not knocking my old fenders, two ears, almost 40 year old Taylors. They stood up well to the use and physically going strong. They were white and were looking their age. Long past the many paint jobs I had done to spruce them up. I was just tired of them.
The new ones are black and they too will be abraded and become dull but the dirt even though ground in will not show as badly or as soon.
They do need a knot at the top and the BOTTOM. The bottom knot , if you don't make a washer , MUST be a big stopper. I have found these fenders over the years where someone saved couple bucks on line diameter and an inadequate stopper knot floating without a line.. Of course they were always too small so I gave them away.
As far as drawbacks they both have those. I bought comparable sizes but the one through hole type has slightly longer usable length but are a couple pound heavier and my wife finds them just a bit harder to handle.
I guess one thing I note about the new fenders is even with the washer and the big knot I can secure them a bit closer to the water. THere is no big ear dipping into the ocean, except as the boat rocks, to collect fouling.
Simply make your choice as either will serve you well if you get good mfgrs units.
rgano
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If the fenders are big enough in diameter for my needs, the kind with the hole at each end at just too long and ungainly for my boat. I have the hole-through-the-fender type. I spiced a 4-inch diameter stainless ring into each end of a 1/2-inch nylon twisted line going through the fender. To these I spliced a length of hanger line. To keep the unused hanger line from getting in the way, I loop it up to and through the other end's ring. Anyway, werqs for me.
O C Diver
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Depends on the intended purpose.
I prefer the long tube style fenders deployed horizontally with 2 lines for floating docks and pilings.
For locking I prefer ball style with one line. I like the larger diameter with the smaller contact point when dragging them up a lock wall. Trapping them below the rub rail with the shortest line possible, keeps them from rolling out. Also, the larger diameter allows for the ball to go into pockets and valleys in the wall while still keeping the hull off the wall.
Anyway, that's my opinion, worth what you paid for it.
Ted
I prefer the long tube style fenders deployed horizontally with 2 lines for floating docks and pilings.
For locking I prefer ball style with one line. I like the larger diameter with the smaller contact point when dragging them up a lock wall. Trapping them below the rub rail with the shortest line possible, keeps them from rolling out. Also, the larger diameter allows for the ball to go into pockets and valleys in the wall while still keeping the hull off the wall.
Anyway, that's my opinion, worth what you paid for it.
Ted
FoxtrotCharlie
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We have the ones with the hole all the way through also - 10"x26". I like the idea of a large washer, but we have now been through 25 locks on the TN River and the TennTom, and when going up there is tremendous pull on those fenders against the lock walls. We only have a double knot on the bottom and that has held very well so far. And just ordered two large 'ball fenders' to add to the collection.
AKDoug
Guru
And if you raft with other vessels buoys are nice to have, so the buoy fills the gap between the hulls below the cap rail. Different fenders for different purposes... definitely not one size fits all for any of them!
Our preference is large ones w through holes, longish lines with an adjuster on one end stopper knot below the fender.
I got rid or fender holders and simply hang them horizontal below the railing for storage.
Slacken the adjuster, pull some line through and tie off the knotted end with a half hitch, adjust so they hang evenly between the rail and gun wale.
Quick to deploy, adjust & store.
I got rid or fender holders and simply hang them horizontal below the railing for storage.
Slacken the adjuster, pull some line through and tie off the knotted end with a half hitch, adjust so they hang evenly between the rail and gun wale.
Quick to deploy, adjust & store.
I have the same type of fender. So far just a single line with a stopper knot on each end of the fender - and on one end that same line continues and becomes the whip. This works fine for vertical placement, but does nothing for stowage. I'm intrigued by what you are describing - because I have horizontal space in the cockpit beneath the gunwale -- but I can't quite visualize it. Could you spell it out slowly?
Thanks.
C lectric
Guru
I too keep and use two, actually three, beach ball type fenders. They have allowed us to stay in spots that the others would not have been suitable for.
Two are nice looking beach balls, one is an old red one given to me for an emergency and not wanted back.
All are about 18" - 20" diameter.
Two are nice looking beach balls, one is an old red one given to me for an emergency and not wanted back.
All are about 18" - 20" diameter.
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Maybe a picture
Adjust desired hang using adjusted on fwd end.
Open photo & zoom in for a larger view
Does that help?
Stopper knot aft... pulled through enough to tie to rail. EZ if eliminate the knot on top.I have the same type of fender. So far just a single line with a stopper knot on each end of the fender - and on one end that same line continues and becomes the whip. This works fine for vertical placement, but does nothing for stowage. I'm intrigued by what you are describing - because I have horizontal space in the cockpit beneath the gunwale -- but I can't quite visualize it. Could you spell it out slowly?
Thanks.
Adjust desired hang using adjusted on fwd end.
Open photo & zoom in for a larger view
Does that help?
Last edited:
HopCar
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The advantage of the the through hole fenders is that you have more contact area that a two hole fender of the same length. Also in theory they can roll around the center rope. I don’t think that works in the real world.
FF
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REMEMBER those 10x 26 old fenders make a great tool case that doesn't mar the finish. Just cut a slot.
C lectric
Guru
Just allow more slack for the top stopper knot to suit the application..
That upper knot is really just to stop the line from disappearing into the deep blue should the whole thing go into the drink. I suspect that's the reason for the ones I found, there was no line so no upper stopper knot.
That upper knot is really just to stop the line from disappearing into the deep blue should the whole thing go into the drink. I suspect that's the reason for the ones I found, there was no line so no upper stopper knot.
Nomad Willy
Guru
I use the single attach on one end fenders because the fenders w attach holes/ears at each end usually results in the lower end being in the water. And of course they get fowled w sea growth w/o the advantage of anti-fowling paint.
In the west US almost always one ties to a float thats usually very close to the waters edge and as the boat moves fwd (or aft) the fenders frequently roll up and out of the space between the boat and float edge. So one usually adjusts fenders very close to the water. Very close frequently is a bit in the water and slimy fenders aren’t ... nice.
So having no ears on the bottom of vertical fenders allows one or two more inches of vertical adjustment. So I buy fenders w attach ears only at one end. I almost never rig a fender horizontally.
In the west US almost always one ties to a float thats usually very close to the waters edge and as the boat moves fwd (or aft) the fenders frequently roll up and out of the space between the boat and float edge. So one usually adjusts fenders very close to the water. Very close frequently is a bit in the water and slimy fenders aren’t ... nice.
So having no ears on the bottom of vertical fenders allows one or two more inches of vertical adjustment. So I buy fenders w attach ears only at one end. I almost never rig a fender horizontally.
C lectric
Guru
We used to tie to log booms which required the fenders be weighted to keep them down. The logs were low and round so the fender only took a few second to sit on top of the logs.
I used LARGE plastic pop bottles and filled them with cement into which I fed a piece of chain. They were about 5# each. Then it could be tied/secured to the fender quickly.
Although we haven't boomed in over 25 yrs, there are few booms any longer, I still carry those things as once in a long while they still come in handy.
I used LARGE plastic pop bottles and filled them with cement into which I fed a piece of chain. They were about 5# each. Then it could be tied/secured to the fender quickly.
Although we haven't boomed in over 25 yrs, there are few booms any longer, I still carry those things as once in a long while they still come in handy.
markpierce
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As our boat's fender deployment officer, I prefer the ones with a hole all the way through. These can be used vertically or horizontally by knotting the ropes according to the need. I do not like the ones with a "loop" at each end because they are difficult to deploy vertically. You have the rope at the other end to deal with.
fslane
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A hole on each end is more flexible. If you don't need to be flexible, pick what works. But if you do, why not go with a hole at each end?
rslifkin
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I use fenders with the single center hole as my normal docking fenders, mostly because they look better in covers (no ears sticking out the ends). And you can get them slightly lower to the water if needed without dangling something into the water and developing growth.
I do keep some ball fenders around for travel involving locks and other non-standard situations. But those are stored deflated, rarely used and looks don't matter.
I do keep some ball fenders around for travel involving locks and other non-standard situations. But those are stored deflated, rarely used and looks don't matter.
adornato
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this is a little off topic but forgive me... does taylormade still guarantee their fenders with a no fee replacement policy?
i have a leaker.. no idea how old it is but younger than me (haha)..probably 10 years old.
i have a leaker.. no idea how old it is but younger than me (haha)..probably 10 years old.
Pete Meisinger
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See post #19 by markpierce . He doesn't mention the round fenders he has in the picture but let me put my two cents worth in. The balls are absolutely the best! I have a couple different sizes on my boat, I also have a couple standard fenders, the large ones.
The balls are a little cumbersome for storage while underway but I would' be without them. They work best on the bow.
pete
The balls are a little cumbersome for storage while underway but I would' be without them. They work best on the bow.
pete
HopCar
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You used to be able to just bring it back to a dealer for a trplacement. They lost their shirt on that one.
All warranted replacements of vinyl fenders and buoys must meet this simple criteria: The fender has split or burst from normal use and damage is not the result of a knife cut or puncture from sharp object. All potentially defective products must receive a Returns Goods Authorization (RGA) # before they are returned to Taylor Made Products. Products returned without an RGA# will be refused, and the product will be returned to sender. To receive and RGA#, call us at 1-800-628-5188.
Benchmark
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And before you fully commit your boat bucks....check out the Sailrite boat blanket fender covers (video) you will be going for next! Cheers
Boatfever
Veteran Member
Hole through the middle, as large as you can handle.
I like the hole through the middle and find them versatile for vertical and horizontal use. I don't stopper knot the line on both sides of the fender and haven't lost a line yet. (Lost a whole fender in a storm offshore but that's a different story) You just need long enough fender line or, tie an extension when going horizontal. What ever style you choose, I would go with the largest (diameter at least) that you can handle and stow. Going a size or two larger on fenders is cheaper than fiberglass and paint repair work. My personal favorite is the Polyform HTM-4 (13.5" diameter if I recall correctly)
They're not cheap but can be found on sale a few times a year.
And, West Marine price matches Amazon (if sold by Amazon themselves) and some other retailers.
I like the hole through the middle and find them versatile for vertical and horizontal use. I don't stopper knot the line on both sides of the fender and haven't lost a line yet. (Lost a whole fender in a storm offshore but that's a different story) You just need long enough fender line or, tie an extension when going horizontal. What ever style you choose, I would go with the largest (diameter at least) that you can handle and stow. Going a size or two larger on fenders is cheaper than fiberglass and paint repair work. My personal favorite is the Polyform HTM-4 (13.5" diameter if I recall correctly)
They're not cheap but can be found on sale a few times a year.
And, West Marine price matches Amazon (if sold by Amazon themselves) and some other retailers.
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I agree 100%. Polyballs are great and very useful. We have a few polyballs and a few with a hole all the way through. We like the hole all the way through because they sit in a fender holder better and can be easily deployed either horizontally or vertically, based on circumstances.
psneeld
Guru
I have seen many a poly ball wear a small spot into the paint/gel versus the longer wear area of other types of fenders.
If you use balls, make sure they aren't too inflated so they create a small hard spot...as temps warm so does the pressure in the fenders.
They certainly have advantages sometimes, just be careful in full time use if your boat has a lot of motion at the dock..... and keep all fenders clean.
If you use balls, make sure they aren't too inflated so they create a small hard spot...as temps warm so does the pressure in the fenders.
They certainly have advantages sometimes, just be careful in full time use if your boat has a lot of motion at the dock..... and keep all fenders clean.
