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12-05-2013, 12:30 AM
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#21
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Guru
City: SF Bay Area
Vessel Model: Tollycraft 34' Tri Cabin
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 12,474
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter B
...zincs still had half their meat left, as well - take note Art… So…all in all…pretty pleased
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Hey Peter
50% zinc still there after 3 yrs - Congrats! That's great for salt water!
You must have low electric current in your area. In salt I usually need to replace zinc in 6 months to about 1 yr max. In fresh water with low electric current area zinc can still have some mass left up to 4 yrs. However, zinc in fresh water builds oxidation coating and requires wire brushing at least three times annually. Too much oxidation build up and zinc's anode quality can be greatly reduced or even nullified if left too long. Magnesium works well in fresh and needs no brushing. In salt mag evaporates too quickly and zinc flakes quickly enough so oxidation never builds.
Happy Launch and Boating Daze!! - Art
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12-05-2013, 02:39 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
City: Port Havelock
Vessel Name: Siesta
Vessel Model: Pelin Sterling 36
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 152
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Good stuff Pete!!
My turn next Tuesday. I will start a separate thread on Monday.
__________________
Mike
"To fish or not to fish, what a silly question. "
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12-05-2013, 03:34 AM
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#23
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Guru
City: Mooloolaba
Vessel Name: Flora
Vessel Model: Timber southern cray boat
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,856
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As you guys know from previous posts I am a great advocate of Prop Speed and have been using it for about 6 years after many years of battling growth in the semi tropics using any and everything to treat the prop.
This stuff is just hard to beat, I think there may still be photos in my album on this forum from years ago supporting this.
Nice stuff Peter you must feel pretty good after that haul out , I suppose the antifoul was starting to loose its life after all that time.
Cheers
Benn
__________________
"When I die I hope my wife doesn't sell my toys for what I told her I paid for them"
Money: It's made round to go round , not flat to stack.
"Get out and do it"
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12-05-2013, 02:01 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
City: Hampton Bays, N.Y.
Vessel Name: Grand Yankee
Vessel Model: 1981 49' Grand Banks Classic
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 328
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I see a lot of yards now spraying the props with a heavy coat of zinc paint. As well as shafts and underwater hardware. If marine growth stays off anodes would not it hold true for any metal item coated with zinc ?? Must investigate deeper. How bout zinc paint then coat with ArmorAll.
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12-05-2013, 09:34 PM
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#25
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Guru
City: Mooloolaba
Vessel Name: Flora
Vessel Model: Timber southern cray boat
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,856
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Before changing to Prop Speed zinc painting was one of the systems that I had tried. About the same effectiveness as hard antifoul.
Cheers
Benn
__________________
"When I die I hope my wife doesn't sell my toys for what I told her I paid for them"
Money: It's made round to go round , not flat to stack.
"Get out and do it"
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12-07-2013, 06:06 AM
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#26
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TF Site Team
City: Ex-Brisbane, (Australia), now Bribie Island, Qld
Vessel Name: Now boatless - sold 6/2018
Vessel Model: Had a Clipper (CHB) 34
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 9,909
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Not so nervous now...
Ok guys, as promised, here be the after pics - note I decided to have a change of colour and went from blue to black antifoul, but for sure, Prop-speed back on the, well…the prop of course…oh yes, and the small hull blisters, there forever, had not changed...
Sorry a bit of sun glare crept into a couple…
Of course, as usual, costs escalated, hence the nervousness. In the end, thanks to the insurance surveyor, (also required), it needed new raw water seacock and strainer, (plastic strainer no longer allowed - ironic after it's lasted 33 odd years, but that's life), then new impeller, re-packing of stuffing box, finally the antifoul and Prop-speed...
Still, now I can rest easy...apart from the bills of course. Wife not impressed, as usual.
__________________
Pete
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12-07-2013, 07:50 AM
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#27
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Guru
City: Mooloolaba
Vessel Name: Flora
Vessel Model: Timber southern cray boat
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,856
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Peter,
Looks good.
As my Partner says it is for my state of mental health so it doesn't matter.
You seem to carry a lot of zinc around the boat , have you had it tested as it would appear it is over zinced.
Some years ago I had mine tested whilst in water and as such reduced the zincs by 50% the next slipping and paint and underwater fittings have been a lot better and the zincs work well.
Nice to be back in the water isn't it.
Cheers
Benn
__________________
"When I die I hope my wife doesn't sell my toys for what I told her I paid for them"
Money: It's made round to go round , not flat to stack.
"Get out and do it"
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12-07-2013, 09:36 AM
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#28
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Guru
City: SF Bay Area
Vessel Model: Tollycraft 34' Tri Cabin
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 12,474
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Peter great picts, looks real good, nice bottom, glad all went well! Dem wifes - Geeeezzz! Maybe it's your boats pretty bottom that has your Admiral all a flurry! lol
Tidahapah - Interesting comment about over zinced: Not that I think my boat is... but how do you test for that? Is there a formula for ratio of anode compared to exposed diode in the water... or is it a galvanization/corrosion meter that tells the story while in the water? Must be different amounts per anode - vs - diode regarding immersion in Salt, brakeage, fresh waters... do you have a net address with scientific explanation on correct anode amounts?
Interesting topic... fastbottoms will probably have good input, hope he reads this thread.
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12-07-2013, 10:10 AM
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#29
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TF Site Team
City: Jacksonville
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 11,037
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Art: We had a corrosion survey done this past July and it was well worth the $65 we paid for one hour. We've put Hobo in a marina, that's up a river, in brackish water and the summer rains hadn't really started yet. We wanted to see if our bonding system was in good order and that we didn't have any stray current in AC or DC systems.
The results showed that the bonding system and AC/DC systems were fine and we were within the recommended range of -550 to -1100 millivolt. We tested -635 millivolts. The technician suggested that even adding more zincs may not get us more negative because of the freshwater content potently increasing so he suggested that we switch to aluminum anodes. A week later after changing from zinc to aluminum anodes he retested. The reading was -1028. We changed out a 6" x12" x 1/2" plate, prop and rudder zinc all to aluminum. The change-over was ~$10 more.
Boatzincs.com has a carrion quiz that has some useful information.
Corrosion Quiz: Question 1
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12-07-2013, 04:09 PM
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#30
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Guru
City: Mooloolaba
Vessel Name: Flora
Vessel Model: Timber southern cray boat
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,856
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Check out the corrosion site that Larry M has suggested.
Good info.
Cheers
Benn
__________________
"When I die I hope my wife doesn't sell my toys for what I told her I paid for them"
Money: It's made round to go round , not flat to stack.
"Get out and do it"
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12-07-2013, 05:27 PM
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#31
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Guru
City: SF Bay Area
Vessel Model: Tollycraft 34' Tri Cabin
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 12,474
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Larry - Cool link - TY. Put all its pages it in my corrosion book w/ my test meter. Always good to have more sources of info on this stuff!
Happy Boating Daze! - Art
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12-07-2013, 07:20 PM
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#32
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Guru
City: Sydney
Vessel Name: Sojourn
Vessel Model: Integrity 386
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 12,806
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Pete, a modest work list after 3 years in the water. They look so good just before going back in the water.
Anyone think antifoul color affects fouling, or is it purely cosmetic?
__________________
BruceK
2005 Integrity 386 "Sojourn"
Sydney Australia
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12-07-2013, 07:51 PM
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#33
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Hospitality Officer
City: Pittwater
Vessel Name: Sarawana
Vessel Model: IG 36 Quad Cabin
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,867
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She's looking good Pete.
I was interested in Ben's comment on over zincing(not sure that is a word), I hadn't realised you could over zinc a boat. I do worry sometime about whether the copper bonding of the boat is still up to scratch though.
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12-07-2013, 08:51 PM
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#34
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TF Site Team
City: Ex-Brisbane, (Australia), now Bribie Island, Qld
Vessel Name: Now boatless - sold 6/2018
Vessel Model: Had a Clipper (CHB) 34
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 9,909
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I am still of two minds about this whole bonding thing. The seacock which was most corroded, and had to be replaced, was to my knowledge, the only one in my boat which is bonded. All the others are not, yet appear to be still pristine. Explain that. The engineer who replaced it was also a bit skeptical from his facial expression when I quizzed him about it. As to being over-zinced - maybe if most of your fittings are not bonded, being a bit over-zinked is good…? Puts me in mind of a song, (murdered a bit of course)...
Over-zinced - under-zinced, wombling free, the Wombles of Mor-e-ton Bay are we….
Oh and best of all. today I dunked the dink in the swimming pool at home, having taken it home while her mum is out of the water…got in with it so I could tip it in all positions and even look from underwater...and found the pesky leak which has been bugging me for months…! You beaut! Now just to slip on a hat, slop on some contact, and slap on a patch…and we're good to go...
Cheers
__________________
Pete
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12-07-2013, 10:26 PM
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#35
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Guru
City: Powell River, BC
Vessel Name: Northern Spy
Vessel Model: Nordic Tug 26
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 3,940
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Very interesting boat stand, and I love the Celica GT4 all trac in the background.
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12-07-2013, 10:52 PM
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#36
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Guru
City: Concrete Washington State
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 18,624
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceK
Pete, a modest work list after 3 years in the water. They look so good just before going back in the water.
Anyone think antifoul color affects fouling, or is it purely cosmetic?
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Bruce,
I can't imagine black being anything but superior. Why would anyone put black paint on their yacht if it wasn't?
Seriously though .. a fellow in Craig Alaska was convinced that black was better. Some guys probably think engines run better if aligned to the magnetic lines of force of the earth and other such nonsense. But if there was more copper or other "active ingredient" in one color then of course that color would perform better but I'm fairly sure that's not the case.
Personally I'm not one for tradition but I've never put anything but red AF on any boat except my aluminum skiff and I had no choice there. Boaters these days seem to be painting the bottoms of their boats like new VW Beetle owners are painting their cars. At least boat owners putting weird colors on the bottoms of their boats are putting the offending bottoms promptly under water and out of sight. Never know when some critical guy like me will come along and be offended.
Spy that's peter's hot rod.
__________________
Eric
North Western Washington State USA
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12-07-2013, 11:45 PM
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#37
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TF Site Team
City: Ex-Brisbane, (Australia), now Bribie Island, Qld
Vessel Name: Now boatless - sold 6/2018
Vessel Model: Had a Clipper (CHB) 34
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 9,909
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northern Spy
Very interesting boat stand, and I love the Celica GT4 all trac in the background.
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Yeah, I love it too, that's why I still have it 23 odd yrs later. Gave it a repaint last year - came up better than new…better paint technology I guess.
Sorry, but since yah menchined it…
__________________
Pete
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