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Old 11-29-2017, 06:12 PM   #161
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Hey Troy,
Its all looking good so far!

I replaced my tanks with 2mm stainless, but they were only 120 litres each. Mild steel is probably better for the size you are considering.

I agree with using sockets; There's not enough meat on even heavy plate to tap proper threads.

One other thing. A tank will last a lifetime if you can keep it free from water inside and out.Id recommend installing your tanks on a slight slope, with a sump at the lowest point of each tank. Since mine was flat bottomed, I mounted it on wedge shaped supports (cut from synthetic decking) to slope the bottom down to the drain point. I tied this drain point to a sight glass, so I can immediately see if there is any water in the tanks when I check the fuel level.
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Old 12-01-2017, 06:35 AM   #162
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AusCan, has a valid point there that I did not mention. Install a nice little sump in each tank, Mine are approx 120 mm square and 150 mm deep. 1/2 "socket with a ball v/v and cap for draining of the nasties.
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Old 12-01-2017, 09:29 PM   #163
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It could be beneficial to angle the tank slightly away from the fuel pickups and install an inspection port on that end. This would help contain all the sediment to one area and may make clean outs a bit less frustrating.
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Old 04-07-2018, 03:03 AM   #164
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Hello to all that replied to the fuel tank conversation. Ok if you had a fuel tank that say held 1000lts as an example, and instead of having it full all the time to decrease condensation build up inside. If I made them into three separate tanks in one and only kept one full or there abouts and left the other two empty and only fill for extended cruising this saving having all this fuel onboard not being used ( thinking out loud ) how would you stop the empty tanks from getting surface rust on them coating of oil or keep spraying with diesel as a coating. love to hear from the boys with mild steel tanks.

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Old 04-07-2018, 10:35 PM   #165
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I have not had any fuel issues from condensation, but perhaps your climate might be different. I would just have a drain valve at the low point of the tank, and drain off a bit of fuel occasionally to check for it. I would not create multiple tanks to deal with it. Install a Racor, or better twin Racor's ahead of the engine filters and keep an eye on the bowl for water. Carry plenty of filters, but unless you get a bad fill (bottom of suppliers tank) you probably wont need them either.
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Old 04-08-2018, 03:49 AM   #166
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How are you mate,
So you think just build them as big as I can make them only one tank with a good sump, twin filters and a good inspection port. The possible capacity will be close to 1500lts each would this change anything and was thinking a of a day tank off around 300lts also any more advise will be consider very very carefully
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Old 04-08-2018, 04:23 AM   #167
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Were a bit bigger with a 60 ft milkraft ex trawler.
3500 litre tanks either side of the nta855 cummins primary
Crud sump and drain in the bottom corner and pickup above that
Pickups running to 1000fg x2 then on to engine.
Had her for two years and had about 3500 litres of old diesel when we bought her, crud sump gets checked every few months, always clean
Still running the original filters, have a dozen spares but no sign of pressure on the gauges so haven't changed them.
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Old 04-08-2018, 04:30 AM   #168
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As I stated before , one large tank either side with inbuilt sumps and drains are the way to go.
I maintain mine pretty full but every 2 years run them down to about 400 lts per side and then polish the fuel from one side to the other and in the process open each tank when empty to clean out ant large crap or sediment. Change all filters every 12 months weather they need it or not as the filter material will break down and it also give you peace of mind that you are fully on top of the situation.
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Old 04-08-2018, 04:57 AM   #169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tidahapah View Post
. Change all filters every 12 months weather they need it or not as the filter material will break down .
Noted and changing tomorrow.
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Old 04-08-2018, 05:05 PM   #170
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Originally I had 4 tanks with capacity of 3850 litres. When they had to be replaced (one had started to leak after 32 years) I made the aft tanks larger, and split off 380 litres from each of the lateral tanks to use as day tanks. I now have 4700 litres in total, in 6 tanks. The day tanks can only be filled via the polisher. The extra capacity was for a planned LA-Hawaii crossing. But freight rates reduced dramatically so I ended up shipping her back to Australia.

Were I starting again I would likely just stay with the original tank configuration and size. But still install a polisher. I have only once picked up any water/crud in a fuel fill, and it was just in one tank. This with 25,000 litres of fuel used in total. Probably about 300 ml of water with small amount of debris, easily drained from the polisher's Racor. The polisher pickups almost touch the bottom of the tanks, whereas the engine pickups are about 5mm from the bottom. The twin Racors for the engines have never got any water in them.

Now, if you were planning on travelling to developing countries and were getting fuel delivered in 200 litre drums it would be different as contaminated fuel is then more likely. The set-up I have might then be very beneficial. Bottom line - day tank probably not worth the extra work/cost to install.
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Old 04-08-2018, 06:03 PM   #171
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Well this is great information from all of you and my job of making them myself is becoming easier with every conversation so let me get it straight the larger capacity diesel will be fine to stay in for extended periods I still think I like the idea of the day tank even if it is not used straight away need to put it in before new deck goes on. Having a good size crud sump is a no brainer with welded sockets, slopping top of tank inwards so no water can not sit on top for any reason sit tanks on some good timber bearers ( anything on the Bearers or just straight on top) a large inspection port dual filtering system changing filters once a year or as required beforehand. Now let’s talk about baffels was thinking about full height but can be easily talk out of this Benn how have you arranged yours with your inspection port and do you think it’s important to get to every corner of the tank from the one inspection point getting closer boys for the final decision on design. How have you boys gone about sight glass arrangements or have you got gauges list how many sockets am I going to require sump drain, delivery line, 2 for the sight glass, breather socket. 2” filler socket would you add any more for down the track really appreciate your input boys cheers once we finalize design will post a drawing for you all to look over before we go to build stage.
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Old 04-08-2018, 07:16 PM   #172
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I used tared tape as a betting on the timber when I installed my tanks, I don't know if it is still available.
Baffles full height with limber holes in each corner plus a reasonably sized opening in the middle. Inspection ports so that you can get to each division or at least one each end.
When you have them fabricated it may pay to have them rolled so that you only weld in the ends , top and sumps. or bottom and sumps.
I didn't do this only thought of it about a week after I had completed welding my tanks.
Sight glasses with quick closing valves on the bottom, they are available but hard to find. I will see what I can dig up and let you know. Always add an extra socket at the bottom and at the top, you never know what you may want to add later.
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Old 04-08-2018, 07:23 PM   #173
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Self Closing Valves - Johnson Valves JV1003 is similar to the valves I used. Still can not find a local source. will keep looking.
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Old 04-08-2018, 07:31 PM   #174
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Thanks Benn and to all the other boys for your thoughts if you think of anything else to add to the topic please do so will post an update when I return from work on the progress of the boat just started the port side structural timber work pretty much the same as the starboard side but a bit longer in the deck stringer this side is about 9.5 meters long the port was only 6 meters long. Thanks again to all.
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Old 04-08-2018, 07:35 PM   #175
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Thanks mate appreciate your help on this better to ask people who know then to do the job and have to do it again cheers Benn
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Old 04-08-2018, 08:40 PM   #176
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Have a 1" socket on the bottom so you can cross-link the tanks for self levelling of fuel levels. But include valves in case you want to have more fuel in one tank to get trim right.

In addition to Benn's comments, which are spot-on, paint the tanks with epoxy paint. An alternative bedding is nitrile rubber, which is what I have.

For sight tubes, mine look like this. Installed in the US, not sure if available locally.
https://www.google.com.au/imgres?img...act=mrc&uact=8
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Old 04-09-2018, 02:18 AM   #177
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Brian, yes Nitrile rubber would be a very good bedding material for the tanks.
The self closing valves for the sight glasses is a survey requirement and when I was building I was building to survey until I realised that I didn't like people all that much so just built to survey standard and not in survey.
My fuel tanks were painted with tar epoxy and then final coated with enamel , so far after 23 odd years they are in very good condition.
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Old 09-25-2018, 02:50 AM   #178
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Old 09-25-2018, 02:52 AM   #179
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Hello people
Just a few photos of the small progress iv made over the last few months bugger work.
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Old 09-25-2018, 02:58 AM   #180
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Evans Head NSW to Port Albert Vic in a 49ft McLaren Timber trawler

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