drill bits

[twistedtree]

Wow, we have all been in confinement for WAY too long.

 

[Lou_tribal]

wow, we have all been in confinement for way too long.

lol !

 

[FF]

The woodworkers brace can be fitted with bits that fit screw heads .


The ability to really push on the screw being removed is a huge help, at times.

 

[RT Firefly]

Oh dear...

 

[OldDan1943]

Oh dear...

RT, so many times I have wondered about your sanity.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. OD. What a way to start off my day! THANK YOU, so much!!!

 

[HopCar]

RT, so many times I have wondered about your sanity.

You wondered about his sanity? I thought it was obvious, he’s nuts.

The only reason he’s allowed to post here is because there ain’t no such thing as a sanity clause. (Insert rim shot here)

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. HC. Well, I never. Of COURSE there's a Sanity Clause, you disbeliever.

Heretics!

 

[HopCar]

Rufus T, Chico always had the best lines. I knew you’d pick up on that one.

 

[Lou_tribal]

A question for you Mr RTF, what was created first? The drill or the bit?

L

 

[OldDan1943]

A question for you Mr RTF, what was created first? The drill or the bit?

L

best guess, the bit aka auger.

 

[Bacchus]

best guess, the bit aka auger.

Bingo...
Back when thats all you had was the auger... self propelled!

 

[HopCar]

If you want to know which came first, order one of each from Amazon and see what happens.

I tried this with a chicken and an egg. They both arrived in the same box.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. L_t. Tough question to answer. Depends on what you consider a drill/bit. I suppose when ancient humans settled down to an agrarian lifestyle they poked holes in the ground with a pointed stick to plant their seeds. THAT could be considered a drill, I suppose. So my answer is:

Sorry.

 

[BruceK]

Hmmm, how do you explain the phrase, " Brace and bit"?

In Cockney rhyming slang? It might bother the cuss filter.

 

[Raybo]

That electric thing is a drill motor.

 

[fletch]

PB Blaster for a day or two, left hand bits (high quality), punch a dimple, smaller to large, EZ out, was the shipyard way, also heat on the outside helps if you can. Also cutting oil on the bit.

 

[twotoots]

Probably not applicable here but worth passing on is a “twist” on the always destructive act of hitting the rung off bolt with a hammer and twisting off what’s left with vice grips. The trick is to use an electric hammer (Sears cordless) for about 20 seconds. It’s proven to be quite effective for me on riser to manifold bolts where the threads are in something substantial and tend to get rung off with a little meat still exposed. The rata-tat-tat seems to do an amazing job of breaking up the corrosion. I would be inclined to try it ahead of and in conjunction with the left handed drill if there was enough protrusion for the hammer. If the fastener is in something more “moveable” you could try backing it up with a heavy hammer. My impression is that the loosening effect is more from repetitive shock than brute force like a conventional hammer blow.

When a friend told me to try this I said “yeah right” too, but driving 40 miles to a Sears store turned out to be much easier than drilling out 4 manifold bolts. (A more common pneumatic palm nailer might work as well.)

 

[Bob M]

I bought a Drill Doctor about 20 years ago and sharpen my bits.



Bits seem to accumulate, since even broken bits can be sharpened. I've dozens of sharp bits that I'll probably never use again.


I've used an easy out tool for broken bolt removal with good results.

 

[Comodave]

A standard drill bit (or whatever you want to call it) should drill several holes. Most people are in a hurry and use too much pressure and no lubricant. And the bit burns out. It's better to drill a smaller hole first. And in drilling a large diameter bolt, it's better to drill a series of holes. It's easier on the bits because they're using a smaller area on the tip and creating less heat. Bits are heat treated to make the point harder, too much heat causes the temper to go away. Then the bit becomes dull faster.

I use Kearney Rust Cutter on stuck steel and iron nuts and bolts. It's made for power transmission linemen. Working 200 feet in the air, they don't have time or the tools to deal will drilling out a rusted bolt. This spray lubricates, but also dissolves the rust in the threads by including a weak acid in the mix. Spray it on stuck, rusted nut and bold threads and in less than a minute the threads are free. It also works on any kind of rusted parts. I also use it for rings rusted to the cylinder. About $10/can on ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kearney-Ru...411613&hash=item3d85caf00f:g:bD0AAOSwEdteC4sk

I just ordered some of this, will give it a try.

 

[Art]

Parks - I thank you for the informational broken-off bolt removal video. And others - I thank you for your various items of input.

However, I must say... the broken-off bolts shown taken out in the video sure seemed to me considerably clean on their male thread [as well was the female thread in the bolt holes].

For the relatively few times I break off a bolt inside a bolt hole... the usual reason I was not able to get the bolt out without breaking it-off was due to old, long term rust and corroded thread - on both the male and female portions, binding them and semi bonding them together.

Therefore, I ask: Were the three broken-off bolts being removed really tight enough [e.g. the male/female threads bound together firmly enough] in the bolt holes to break-off the "clean thread" bolts in the "clean thread" bolt holes... while they had not been long term rusted/corroded together? Or, was this video just to show what could be done for assistance to remove rusted/corroded together male and female threads of old bolts in old bolt holes?

 

[HopCar]

Art I think there are two situations when bolts get broken.

The first is when they are over tightened and break. This would leave the threads clean. Then the methods shown in the video would work pretty well.

The second situation where bolts break is when the bolt is rusted or corroded in place. In this situation you have to break the bolt loose before you can use the video methods to extract it. I’ve never had any luck with penetrating oils.

What has worked for me is heat. I spent a lot of my youth hanging out in an outboard repair shop. The mechanic had to deal with stainless bolts corroded to the aluminum engine block. He would just grab a torch and heat the metal around the bolt. It worked like magic. When you heat metal with a hole in it, the hole gets bigger breaking the connection between the metal and bolt.

If you can’t heat it, CRC makes a fluid to chill the bolt. Chilling it will cause the bolt to shrink. I’ve got a can of this stuff but haven’t needed to use it yet.

My mechanic friend never had trouble disassembling an engine a second time. When he put the engines back together he coated the threads with Permatex #3. This worked better than Nevr Seeze.

 

[Efftea]

Keep the drill at a relatively low speed. you will only need to replace drills if they overheat, they are made from really tough metal.


drill a small hole in the centre of the bolt. use a can of 'Freeze Off " or similar. this will start to shrink the bolt and break the bond between the corroded parts.
then use a screw extractor in the drill hole to take out the old bolt.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr./Ms. E. Welcome aboard.

 

[FF]

"It also works on any kind of rusted parts. I also use it for rings rusted to the cylinder. About $10/can on ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kearney-Rus...0AAOSwEdteC4sk"


$10 a can is great , but over $5.00 a can for shipping?

 

[OldDan1943]

"It also works on any kind of rusted parts. I also use it for rings rusted to the cylinder. About $10/can on ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kearney-Rus...0AAOSwEdteC4sk"


$10 a can is great , but over $5.00 a can for shipping?

May I suggest you go to your local drug store and purchase some stuff to freeze wart. It maybe less expensive when one adds in shipping via Amazon.
Same stuff, liquid propane.