dock water hose connection - Page 4

psneeld · 01-17-2018, 07:46 PM

I have...never a one....got real life examples?

Plus why the typical TF assumption I am dumb as a rock and dont read what I sign?

MVDarlin · 01-17-2018, 08:00 PM

See above. I posted a personal experience with flooding.

Bigsfish · 01-17-2018, 08:14 PM

All

For me and only me as I’m not a live aboard and spend very few days at a dock except my own. That being said the inconvenience of filling my water tank is not important to me and no matter if my boat sunk or just filled with water I would not be happy so I’ll fill my tank. Now with my luck I’ll probably follow Scott and my shaft seas will leak and the boat will sink. Thanks Scott, LOL

psneeld · 01-17-2018, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MVDarlin

See above. I posted a personal experience with flooding.

Never said that couldnt happen...no matter how remote....

But thats not a name of a marina that prohibits connecting to city water full time that I requested for my future travels.

Maerin · 01-17-2018, 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by O C Diver

As I mentioned at the beginning of my post the preferred method was a flow restricter (orifice), no moving parts. This has nothing to do with pressure, only put a maximum limit on flow rate in case of a plumbing failure. A ball valve would be a poor choice here as it's to course an adjustment. Ideally a needle valve would be the best choice for controlling flow.

And as mentioned in my first post, I would never hook city water to my boat.

Ted

Ted,
Apologies for misreading your original post. I understand your intent after having gone back and re-reading.
You are correct that a needle valve is actually the best choice for throttling. I recommended a ball valve because they are more readily available. I still maintain that a gate valve is lousy for throttling; the design will allow almost full flow until the valve is nearly closed, and the gate has a tendency to chatter or move, so consistency is very poor. Simply using an orifice as you suggest is probably the most reliable method. There are fixed restrictors available that are commonly used in UV treatment systems to limit flow to the rating of the UV lamp. It's essentially a 3/4" NPT coupling with a fixed hard rubber orifice. It would be simple to adapt to hose fittings, and they're inexpensive.

caltexflanc · 01-18-2018, 08:27 AM

Quote:

Hey it take a lot of valuable time to fill my water tank!! OK I am just lazy...

Us too! Plus I wanted to be in a position to leave the dock at a moment's whim.

psneeld · 01-18-2018, 08:48 AM

or the water on your dock gets shut down for some reason just before you were going to refill....

OldDan1943 · 01-18-2018, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by O C Diver

While I don't ever hook to city water for the previously mentioned reason, if you choose to, you can incorporate a flow restricter before the connection to the boat. Simply, it reduces the hose diameter from 1/2" or greater down to a much smaller size. There's nothing to fail as it's only a hole through a pipe fitting. The same thing can be accomplished by plumbing a gate valve after the dock hose. Once you have it adjusted to the minimum required flow, just remove the hand wheel. The idea is to limit the flow to about 3 gallons per minute.

Ted

Gate valves are not to be used for throttling. They are not designed to be used for throttling. Use a globe valve or maybe a ball valve but never a gate valve.

psneeld · 01-18-2018, 10:32 AM

What are we talking here? 20 to 50 gallons absolute max a day? Except on boat washing days or really big boats/crews.

Certainly not the best, but hardly an industrial setting.

aboatman · 01-18-2018, 10:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by caltexflanc

Dear Lord, following that thinking, one would never have electricity on board or heaven forbid, propane. The best way to avoid having a boat you own sink is to not own a boat.

I don't think this is the sort of thing the Lord gets himself involved with.

OldDan1943 · 01-18-2018, 10:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aboatman

I don't think this is the sort of thing the Lord gets himself involved with.

Lord, your oceans are so big and my boat is so small. Look after all those who are willing to get onto my boat and may the boat always make it back to shore.

stubones99 · 01-18-2018, 11:10 AM

For those that are bothered by dock water, here is a way to solve the problem.
Buy a 120vac solenoid valve and install it just inboard of the dock water fitting on your boat. Wire it up to the dock power breaker, and run one leg of the circuit to a float valve installed in the bilge. That way, any water in the bilge will cause the dock water flow to stop. It won't drain your house batteries since it is 120vac and powered from dock power.

psneeld · 01-18-2018, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stubones99

For those that are bothered by dock water, here is a way to solve the problem.
Buy a 120vac solenoid valve and install it just inboard of the dock water fitting on your boat. Wire it up to the dock power breaker, and run one leg of the circuit to a float valve installed in the bilge. That way, any water in the bilge will cause the dock water flow to stop. It won't drain your house batteries since it is 120vac and powered from dock power.

You have a handy link to the solenoid that is open till latched shut?

Is the float switch 12V or 120V to trip the relay?

I would be pleased as I have toyed with one for both that and shutting down the ac/heat pumps if the bilge fill from a broken hose.

Alaskan Sea-Duction · 01-18-2018, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MVDarlin

Read closely your moorage agreement. Many prohibit connection.

Wow Really?

psneeld · 01-18-2018, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alaskan Sea-Duction

Wow Really?

Like many internet myths...if you catch them early and force their hand asking for proof..... poof.....off into the tron world.

stubones99 · 01-18-2018, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by psneeld

You have a handy link to the solenoid that is open till latched shut?

Is the float switch 12V or 120V to trip the relay?

I would be pleased as I have toyed with one for both that and shutting down the ac/heat pumps if the bilge fill from a broken hose.

I would prefer not having a 120vac line down in the bilge water so it might be a good idea to add a transformer to 12vdc and switch to a DC solenoid. Any solenoid that is Normally Closed would work (N/C) since once it loses power, it goes closed and shuts off the water flow.

I would be careful putting a brass solenoid on the raw water intake of an A/C unit. Here is one with a nylon body that probably would work, but marine life could jam the valve works...

https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Sole...water+solenoid

caltexflanc · 01-18-2018, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aboatman

I don't think this is the sort of thing the Lord gets himself involved with.

"Dear Lord" is a secular phrase here, equivalent to "golly gee" or "goodness gracious". Sorry to have had caused you a head banging fit, will be more careful in the future.

MVDarlin · 01-18-2018, 02:16 PM

Paradise Village in PVR

psneeld · 01-18-2018, 04:56 PM

PVR?
Puerta Vallerta?
Palm Valley?

is it in the US?

AusCan · 01-18-2018, 04:58 PM

The reasons I don't have a dock water hookup are:

- There is a small added risk of flooding.
- A hose running across the dock and boat is also a trip hazard.
- A hose left on the dock get coated in a sticky gooey mess and looks like crap.
- The boat's water tanks get stale if not used regularly.
- I'm too lazy to disconnect and roll up the hose every time I want to use the boat.

The only negative I can see is the pump wearing out sooner.

If I was a live aboard and stayed at the dock, I'm sure I'd have a different view.