Do I need to pull my boat out of the water to change my exhaust tubing?

[Ducatihottie]

Morning!

CHB PONDEROSA SINGLE CUMMINS ENGINE

My mechanic asked me if my exhaust is above water or below. He hasn't been aboard yet.

Is this photo my outside exhaust, (and no my boats not floatiing upside down "yet", its just the photo).

That said

1. Does he need to pull my boat out of the water to change my wet exhaust hose?

My survey says..... It has a crack in it and leaks a little water while underway, (and exhaust fumes as well). Not exact wording.

2. Even if it was underwater shouldn't you be able to change it? I assume there's something that prevents water from coming back into the boat via the exhaust?

3. Can't you just cut out the leaky part and splice in new hose?

4. Like some auto hoses, can you just wrap something around the leaky hose like grandpa did to his La Marquise

This will be my most expensive repair job on my survey, (see estimate below).

07/22/2020 Services STBD wet 1 $1,200.00
exhaust hose replacement.
If needed, Haul out additional.



AND NO I won't be doing it myself: )

 

[Slowmo]

With your exhaust sitting clearly above the water you should be able to do this in place without hauling. At least on the boats I've seen the rubber pipe clamps on to a fitting in the hull where the exhaust exits.

Generally there should be an anti-backflow flapper to keep a big wave on the transom from pushing water backwards into the engine exhaust. However I see many boats without them. The most common ones are obvious, a rubber flapper on the exhaust at the transom. If you happen to have an internal one it will be obvious as they're spliced into the exhaust piping.

The thing you want to be sure of is if the mechanic and his tools are on the side with the exhaust that the pipe doesn't sink to the water. You might want to make sure your water tanks are empty to lighten the boat as much as possible. I know with our boat when the water tanks are full the exhausts are just at water line level, empty they're an inch above the water.

 

[Ducatihottie]

Thanks, Slow mo!

You used the words "obvious" and "clearly", (you do know who you're talking to My wife laughs at me everytime I pick up a screwdriver

I can't see if there's a rubber flapper as the rear of my boats off the dock. And there's signs "don't get in the water unless you want to get electrocuted". I'm trying to avoid that before breakfast.

 

[Chrisjs]

Can't really see the size of your exhaust but something like this might help. When I stored our boat on the hard for the Winter, I pushed a the bottom end of a 1 gallon plastic antifreeze bottle(guess where the liquid went) into the exhaust outlet to keep out vermin and birds.
You should be able to find something round enough to stuff into your exhaust. They actually make rubber conical boat plugs as below that should be suitable and create a relatively tight fit. Obviously you need to push the plug in from outside.

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=2242647

 

[jhall767]

I'd tape up or plug the exhaust. It's comfortably above the water line but have 3 people stand on that side of the boat and check it. Then have a wake come along and see what happens.....

Exhaust is a BIG hole and things happen very fast.

 

[TJM]

You do not have the external flapper. You would see it in the photo. It is just a piece of black rubber that is slightly larger than the outside pipe diameter. As mentioned, it is a mechanical panel that closes upon pressure from a following sea or a hard back up.
This could be a do it your self job inside the boat, nice and dry. Just get the correct hose.

 

[oscar]

Yes it's above water, so you don't need to haul.

No you probably can't shorten it, and even if you could you don't want to because if it's worn at the leak the whole thing is close(r) to being worn and no you don't want to patch it for the same reason.

Sinking or CO poisoning are also to be avoided before breakfast.

Do it right and if you can't have it done right. You gotta pay to play.

 

[Ducatihottie]

Tjm; isn't there an internal flapper? Something has to keep the water from going back in, no?

Thanks oscar. I'm just going to wing it and get all the repairs on my survey done. Total Estimate for all repairs about $3,100. Not including, "packing glands". Would I have to go to a Hospital for that?

There are easy repairs like bilge pump float, clear up to this one. I'm hoping to get this one done without pull out.

Estimate below: # numbers correspond to my survey as I sent it to him. BELIEVE it or not, estimates ranged from $3,100 to $14,000


07/22/2020 Services #3 Valve handle 1 $75.00
replacement.

07/22/2020 Services #4 Bilge pump 1 $ 100.00
fix/replace.

07/22/2020 Services #5 STBD wet 1 $1,200.00
exhaust hose
replacement.
Haul out
additional.

07/22/2020 Services #6 Grey water 1 $100.00
bilge pump
fix/replace.

07/22/2020 #7 Boat yard.
We don't do
shaft work.

07/22/2020 Services #8 Sight glass 4 $125.00 500
replacement.

07/22/2020 #10 Over
current
protection. We
would recommend
a marine
electrician.

07/22/2020 Services Update: Install 1 $750.00
Racor breather
system.

07/22/2020 Update: Packing
glands: Boat
yard.

07/22/2020 Services Update: 1 $135.00
Diagnose Flo
Scan issue.
Labor only.

07/22/2020 Billable LUpdate: Change 1 $260.00
oil and filter
(if applicable)
on gear box.
____________________________________________________________________________
--------------------------------------
Total: $3,120.00

 

[Ducatihottie]

What's "Diagnose Flo Scan issue".

What is a "flow scan"? And worst case scenario "about" how much to repair or replace it?

 

[Comodave]

Flow scan tell you how much fuel you are burning at the current time and how much total you have burned since you reset it. This isn’t a major priority, you can live without it for a while. Just keep the fuel tanks pretty full so you don’t run out. I believe that Flow Scan went out of business so parts may or may not be available.

 

[TJM]

and flowscan on diesels is a little harder with low flow rates and diesels that have a strong return flow to the tanks.

As far as the exhaust hose having an internal flapper, the answer is no. It is a hollow thick hose that may have a reinforcing wire for support. My hose goes into a water lift muffler that prevents back flow into the exhaust manifold.

 

[kchace]

There is no internal flapper and on most trawler style boats No external flapper is needed. Water doesn’t back up into the engine due to proper exhaust system design.

Ken

 

[Comodave]

If you are going to replace the exhaust hose while the boat is in the water just find a plug that fits and stick it into the exhaust where it comes out the transom. Then replace the hose. If you are concerned about it still then put a lot of stuff on the opposite side to get the boat to list to the opposite side and bring the exhaust up out of the water. Replace all the hose at the same time since if one place failed there are other places ready to fail. Depending on the size they make rubber plugs to plug toilet seats when the toilet has been removed that might fit.

 

[oscar]

You can find inflatable plugs in the plumbing supply. They're sized for construction plumbing but you may find one that will fit.

 

[alormaria]

I changed the hose by emptying the water tanks and pulling up hard on my mooring line. I had an inch or two. It was a character builder.

 

[Ducatihottie]

I like the plug and emptying the water tank.

I've got about 5 inches to water

 

[SoWhat]

External flappers are not sealed. They tend to be loosely placed over the outlet.
If your extremely nervous, stick a nerf ball in there. I wouldn't bother.
I personally would replace all hoses. Not just the exhaust. Rubber ages.
You could cut out the bad section and install a Centek fiberglass spacer. Not something I would recommend.

You should be able to replace the CCV filter DIY

 

[koliver]

I know a guy...
He had his exhaust undone, no water was coming in, he went for lunch (our yacht club has a restaurant at the top of the dock) and when he came back his boat was sunk, pulling hard on the tie up lines. Luckily for him, he had lots of insurance.

 

[oscar]

I know a guy...
He had his exhaust undone, no water was coming in, he went for lunch

Hmmm....

 

[Comodave]

I know a guy...
He had his exhaust undone, no water was coming in, he went for lunch (our yacht club has a restaurant at the top of the dock) and when he came back his boat was sunk, pulling hard on the tie up lines. Luckily for him, he had lots of insurance.

Well that is just an example of poor work, not the process. Replacing exhaust isn’t rocket science but rather just sometimes very hard difficult work depending on access to the hose. Some boats it is simple and some boats it is extensive and intrusive work. But that doesn’t mean the boat will sink. Not if the work was done competently. You don’t walk away in the middle of the job. Maybe he wanted to sell the boat to the insurance company...

 

[oak_box]

I'm actually in the middle of doing a very similar repair on my 1980 Chris Craft 410.

We pulled the Y-pipe (it's actually more like an "F") that takes the exhaust from both manifolds and goes to the aqua-lift. The metal part is cast iron, and has a large crack in it - but is otherwise in tact.

My question is: Where do I get new rubber couplers? I've seen 3" and 4" couplers online - but they're all only 4" long. The couplers on my engines are a good 8-10" long.

John

P.S. I went to Home Depot, got one of the 4" couplers, and a 4" pvc plumbing fitting with a screw on cap, and installed that on the inside. No indication at all of water coming in - but the jury-rigged cap makes me sleep a LOT easier - especially as the repair might take several days...

 

[PaulGel]

We had to replace the rubber sections of our exhausts and the mechanic wanted to lift the boat Because even with the levels it was close and could start flooding if we got a big wake.

I went to Walmart and found two volleyballs and put them in the exhaust outlets and pumped them up. No problems. I kept one in the lazzarette in case we ever had another exhaust issue. Just find a suitable sized pice of sporting equipment.

 

[Comodave]

We had to replace the rubber sections of our exhausts and the mechanic wanted to lift the boat Because even with the levels it was close and could start flooding if we got a big wake.

I went to Walmart and found two volleyballs and put them in the exhaust outlets and pumped them up. No problems. I kept one in the lazzarette in case we ever had another exhaust issue. Just find a suitable sized pice of sporting equipment.

I like that.

 

[ben2go]

For future reference in case anyone finds this thread. You can change exhaust when the exhaust exits under the water. The thru hull can be plugged externally and everything changed. Never leave the boat unattended until everything is back in place. I have used a water bottle filled with beach sand wrapped in a towel to plug an exhaust thru hull to make repairs. be inventive but also make sure your bilge pumps are working and on stand by in case the make shift plug pops out.


You can also list the boat to the opposite side to lift the thru hull above the water.

 

[Greggnvt]

My exhaust, where it exits the boat (Transom) is in the water by approx. 25%. I had to replace a portion of my 6" exhaust fiberglass tube (maybe 3' or so) as it had a leak where it came through the last bulkhead. PO had tried to repair with fiberglass and I tried the same - no luck. My first cut was about 4' from the water. So I could sleep at night (this repair took place over 3 days), I ended up putting one of those red rubber balls (from kickball in school) in the tube and pumped it up- worked great! I used two Trident exhaust bellows on each end of the replacement tube - one on each side of the bulkhead. Hardest part was: Access and cutting around the bulkhead to get the old tubing out.

Gregg

 

[hollywood8118]

Depending on the design of the boat, what the hose has to snake around and considering how stiff the exhaust hoses can be I have seen yards remove the exhaust flange and slide a new hose in through the transom, we had a GB 36 that was done that way. You might consider the cost to replace with fiberglass tube and silicone couplers vs. hose as they have a longer life span. Dealing with exhaust hose sucks, its typically so ridig and stiff and often doesn't want to play nice.
HOLLYWOOD

 

[Shrew]

1. Does he need to pull my boat out of the water to change my wet exhaust hose?

My survey says..... It has a crack in it and leaks a little water while underway, (and exhaust fumes as well). Not exact wording.

2. Even if it was underwater shouldn't you be able to change it? I assume there's something that prevents water from coming back into the boat via the exhaust?

No, if it's underwater the boat will need to be pulled. The HOSE is what keeps water from coming in. Your's is above water, so it should be able to be replaced in the water.

3. Can't you just cut out the leaky part and splice in new hose?

No, replace the hose. A male/male hose barb could be used in an emergency, but that is not a proper fix. The entire run of hose needs to be replaced.

4. Like some auto hoses, can you just wrap something around the leaky hose like grandpa did to his La Marquise

Emergency Tape can be used as a 'get home' solution, not as an actual 'fix'. The proper fix is to replace the hose.

 

[ScottC]

I wonder what kind of progress Ducatihottie is making with Kon-Teaky? Seems he just disappeared after this post...

 

[ben2go]

 

[Leatherneck]

I wonder what kind of progress Ducatihottie is making with Kon-Teaky? Seems he just disappeared after this post...

I was wondering too. Hope all is well with him.