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Old 09-18-2018, 11:43 AM   #21
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FYI I use a 5 gallon gas can for my drain oil.
Very minimal spill possibility both in the boat and during transport for disposal. And with a nice spout to pour into the disposal container. With the cap on the dregs won't spill either
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Old 09-18-2018, 11:59 AM   #22
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FYI I use a 5 gallon gas can for my drain oil.
Very minimal spill possibility both in the boat and during transport for disposal. And with a nice spout to pour into the disposal container. With the cap on the dregs won't spill either

I use two, 3 gallon waste oil containers. They fit nicely in a plastic tote along with everything I need for an oil change. Easy to transport, won't leak. However, I don't live on board so the tote lives on a shelf in my garage. On the boat I keep a small, 1.5 waste oil container with a screw lid that I use for waste oil or diesel between oil changes. It stays in the ER in a secure spot and gets emptied into the other containers when I do an oil change.


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Old 09-18-2018, 12:40 PM   #23
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Nobody mentioned K2R cleaner yet.
https://www.wired.com/story/whats-in...fting-cleaner/
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Old 09-18-2018, 09:08 PM   #24
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Had a brain fart and tried a bit of MEK, helped a lot in the small area I tried. Might just have to give it a go tomorrow between other jobs.
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Old 09-18-2018, 09:55 PM   #25
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My neighbor across the street cleans carpets and various things. He has a low pressure steam cleaner that he brought over and did my engines and bilge. Worked great. He had a vac hose from his truck that he used to immediately suck up the crud so it didn’t get overboard. Something like that may work on your deck.
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Old 09-18-2018, 10:34 PM   #26
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I had success cleaning up a 2 pack paint pot spill on teak with the solvent. Caulking needed a redo, but the teak cleaned up well, and residue faded with time.
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Old 09-19-2018, 12:20 PM   #27
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I gave up on reusable containers for waste oil. When I do a change, I get the requisite number of HD or Lowe’s 5 gal buckets with lids, fill’em up directly from the Reverso system, snap on the lids, drop them at the county transfer station, and drive away.
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Old 09-20-2018, 10:48 PM   #28
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Well that oil in the bucket could jave been from ASD. Used Cat oil is nasty nasty stuff....
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Old 09-20-2018, 11:12 PM   #29
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I have had some success with methyl hydrate (wood alcohol) on gelcoat stains.
Be careful with bleach-it bleaches everything it touches. Clorox,etc
Cleaners with a hydroxy base seem to be less "bleachy"
As always-test in an inconspicuous spot & don't be afraid to let it sit for a bit if it doesn't work right away. Not many household cleaners will actually damage gelcoat. They usually just dull it while soaking out the absorbed stain.
Wax will bring the shine back.


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Old 09-21-2018, 04:50 AM   #30
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I cleaned teak deck with simple green and a scrunge. I had done some painting last year and got a few paint drops-spatters on the wood. The simple green loosened them and my fingernail and the scrunge got all of them out of the wood grain. It seemed to float tthe paint out of the wood grain. Of course I let my teak go gray and gray wood fibers are actually degraded wood fibers so the paint is sticking to degraded wood fiber, which makes it easier to remove. But this cleaning worked better than just using water..

Simple green also cleaned off some dark looking mildew which was not too noticeable when dry on the teak steps.

With teak most scrubbing should be done across the wood grain., unless it wont come out, then you have to scrub a little with the grain. But don't use a bristle brush, a scrunge is flatter in profile and bristle brush has spikes more likely to dig into the wood grain. That is my experience.
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Old 09-21-2018, 05:16 AM   #31
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I've been using some FSR the PO had left on board. Its quite effective for removing the stains below my scuppers. Those stains arise from Teak Wonder (applied to teak decks for a couple of years) leaching out of the teak from rain/salt spray. Something else to try would be rust remover (or any phosphoric acid product). Its pretty good on my old gelcoat.

As to managing waste oil, my system is simple. Each engine uses 20 litre per change. So I buy 20 litre pails. I have a partly used one on board for any top-ups needed between oil changes. But I also keep one empty on board. So for oil changes its a case of fill up the empty pail via the oil change pump. Add new oil to the engine, and use the now empty pail for the other engine. I'm left with an empty pail which stays on board.

Even if you bring new oil on board in 1 gallon containers, keeping one engines-worth of empty containers on board would replicate what I am doing. After all, you already have the containers, no need to buy anything. If the containers are secure for new oil then they will be secure for waste oil too!
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Old 09-21-2018, 11:10 AM   #32
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Ive been busy sewing new Shade’s for the aft and bow last couple of days and other boat chores, so haven’t found the time to continue cleaning. Stains seem to be slowly disappearing or maybe its because I’m not staring at them like I was a week ago.
If no rain this weekend, might get to trying the mek or acetone on them.
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Old 09-21-2018, 11:12 AM   #33
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Well that oil in the bucket could jave been from ASD. Used Cat oil is nasty nasty stuff....
Yep, Ill blame it on the “Kitty Litter” LOL
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Old 09-24-2018, 01:21 PM   #34
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Crusty, I think you better sell 'er, she's obviously ruined.

Leave it alone, sun will do the best job on it, as it does on teak. Its pretty silly when you think of it, making the decks white? I know there are heat issues, but how many of you have white floors in your house, and I don't mean that polar bear rug in the living room?

I just bought a giant pressure washer and I will be "vapour blasting" my decks in a few days. You should see my decks now, then maybe you'd relax and maybe have a rum or two...
I'm with you. Our natural teak decks had us scared to death for staining. But red wine, diesel, engine oil, an oops with polish and more have all slowly disappeared. It ain't a museum.
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Old 09-24-2018, 03:00 PM   #35
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I've had good luck with Barkeeper's Friend. One of its ingredients is oxalic acid, which does a great job on almost all deck stains we've encountered. Tide Pen and hydrogen peroxide can also be remarkably effective on stains.

Best of luck!
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Old 09-24-2018, 03:27 PM   #36
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I've had good luck with Barkeeper's Friend. One of its ingredients is oxalic acid, which does a great job on almost all deck stains we've encountered. Tide Pen and hydrogen peroxide can also be remarkably effective on stains.

Best of luck!
I looked up FSR sds and it's main ingredient is oxalic acid.

Also earlier post said Lysol toilet bowl cleaner was the same as FSR, but it's sds say main ingredient is hydrocloric acid, not the same.
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Old 09-24-2018, 04:18 PM   #37
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Diesel oil stains

Electronic contact cleaner. Trichloroethylene?
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Old 09-25-2018, 09:13 AM   #38
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I have used WD-40 to remove / blend oil stains, but it may be too late.
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Old 09-26-2018, 12:10 PM   #39
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I used this: https://www.amazon.com/Oilsponge-AB-...ews/B004I08OLK


for heating oil [diesel] leaked onto the tank frame and concrete floor.


Oil and stain disappeared.


There are a number of bio-products that do the same thing.


I now keep some on the boat - just in case.
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Old 09-26-2018, 05:28 PM   #40
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Try automotive "Brake Clean" Get it at an automotive parts store, make sure you get the chlorinated type. Takes oil stains out of anything I've tried.
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