Diesel Additives

[catalinajack]

Good that you quit. MMO decreases lubricity, the last thing you want to do to diesel fuel. Before the Advent of ULSD, it didn't matter.

Bob Smith recommended adding Marvel Mystery Oil to diesel years ago. I experimented with it for several years and could'nt detect any benefit.

 

[NCheaven]

Valve Tect

I was amazed how much better my boat ran after topping off (from 1/2 full) twice with Valve Tect. Quieter, smoother, idle so much smoother and still smooth down an additional 100 RPM than before VT. Since a tank usually lasts me close to a year, and I top off when it gets to 1/2 full, I do need the stabilization factor in VT, and boost the biocide with Biobor JF - maybe a little overkill. But, at 15 years old (3 years mine) and around 1600 hours, I am completely delighted with the Camano's Volvo TAMD41P-A. I plan fuels stops around Valve-Tect marinas.

 

[syjos]

I agree with you, however, the marinas here would not allow running a heater all winter. Electric needs to be off when nobody is aboard. Just curious, if your boat is winterized, why the need for a heater anyway?

I'm at a YC so heater is not an issue. The heater I use is an engine room heater bolted to a bulkhead, hard wired to AC, thermostat controlled and has a safety shut off with excessive temperature.

I don't winterize the boat. Most years we use it 5 - 6 times during the winter.

Heat is mainly for keeping the engine room at a constant temp to avoid fuel tank breathing in order to minimize water in the fuel. Other reasons are dampness and rust prevention in the ER, faster engine cold start and less smoke.

 

[FF]

"my best research indicates water is the biggest problem. Stanadyne and StaBil both emulsify water. No water, no critters, and no need for a biocide such as Biobor. At least that's my best thinking. Everyone makes their own decision."

No question water is a big bug feeding problem.

The choice is emulsifying or de emulsifying . The filter makers claim its easier to catch plain water or de emulsified water sucked (not pushed) thru filters.

The best is a sump, and gravity dropping out the water , but these make fuel tanks expensive so are seldom found on production boats.

Bio Bore works at killing fuel bugs but some sources claim it is wise to switch bug killers every so often.

Some boats have a line between fuel tanks that can be used to balance the tanks.

I think one of the Parker fuel filters with a plastic housing that is a water trap in that line might make a great addition if it is the lowest item in the gravity cross feed.

 

[backinblue]

I'm at a YC so heater is not an issue. The heater I use is an engine room heater bolted to a bulkhead, hard wired to AC, thermostat controlled and has a safety shut off with excessive temperature.

I don't winterize the boat. Most years we use it 5 - 6 times during the winter.

Heat is mainly for keeping the engine room at a constant temp to avoid fuel tank breathing in order to minimize water in the fuel. Other reasons are dampness and rust prevention in the ER, faster engine cold start and less smoke.

Not sure where you are located, but could a power failure cause freezing damage?

 

[backinblue]

Boats stored outdoors in winter with engine room heaters controlled by a thermostat maintaining consistent temperature would not ingest moist air either.

I track fuel prices and prefer to purchase fuel in the spring when the price is favorable. And this year, since we are not boating as much as prior years, would have had fuel sitting too long had I purchased in the fall preCovid19.

Not sure about the spring vs fall thing. Isn't the fuel you are buying in the spring likely sitting in the marina tank over the winter anyway? In the fall, lots of us are filling up for the winter and fuel should be fresh at the end of summer anyway. I feel better adding some stabilizer and letting it sit in my tanks.

 

[bgillroy]

Aside from a biocide, imo clean diesel is all Lehman's need. Additives for specific modern applications may be valid and focus on a needed outcome for that specific need, but imo clean fuel is all that engines need. For marine gasoline engines, do all that you can to avoid ethanol additive. It provides no value and may do harm over time.

 

[catalinajack]

Yes, your Lehmans will do just fine with clean diesel from the pump. However, your injector pump not so much. Pump diesel has an inadequate lubricity level that ValveTec fuel addresses.

Aside from a biocide, imo clean diesel is all Lehman's need. Additives for specific modern applications may be valid and focus on a needed outcome for that specific need, but imo clean fuel is all that engines need. For marine gasoline engines, do all that you can to avoid ethanol additive. It provides no value and may do harm over time.

 

[Tom.B]

Pump diesel has an inadequate lubricity level that ValveTec fuel addresses.

In case anyone cares... ValveTec is just an additive that the marina adds to their storage tanks after they get a fuel delivery. Considering how large I believe the capacity of the tanks are, the amount I saw them add seems small and pretty unscientific in the measurement.



-the more you know

 

[mvweebles]

I agree that clean diesel is fine - if you turn it over relatively quickly. 1-1/2 years ago as I was getting ready to go from San Francisco to Ensenada, a big sticking point for me was 150-gallons of diesel that had been sitting in my tanks for close to 15-years. It didn't look like diesel, and sure as heck didn't smell like diesel - more akin to Linseed Oil. Offloading it in California would require toxic/hazmat permits and would have cost well over $4000. So with the consult of my mechanic (an amazing wrench I've known for 25-years), we decided to dilute it with about 100 gals of fresh diesel and triple-dose with Stanadyne. I swear my old Perkins 4.236 would run on piss from a drunk - she purred the entire 75-hours/500 nms. I have a dual Racor setup and switched from one to the other about 100-hours down, but probably didn't need to.

I had the tanks torn-out and replaced in Mexico. Not that much crud in the old tanks. I could not give away the diesel - even the fishing boats wouldn't take it when they saw the color. Not sure where it went - some questions are best left un-asked.

Peter

 

[syjos]

Not sure where you are located, but could a power failure cause freezing damage?

Maybe. Depends on how cold it is and how long the power outage lasts. The interior of the boathouse is usually 5 to 10 degrees warmer than outside and the interior of the boat 5 to 10 degrees warmer than the inside of the boathouse. It takes a day or more for the interior temperature to drop enough to freeze anything.

If power outage lasts more than a day, I would go to the boat daily, run the generator to warm things up. So far in 17 years, we have not experienced outtages over 2 days.

If we leave for warmer weather in January for a month or more, I drain water tanks and fill the raw water cooling on engine and generator with pink anti-freeze. Just in case.

 

[syjos]

Not sure about the spring vs fall thing. Isn't the fuel you are buying in the spring likely sitting in the marina tank over the winter anyway? In the fall, lots of us are filling up for the winter and fuel should be fresh at the end of summer anyway. I feel better adding some stabilizer and letting it sit in my tanks.

I purchase Valvetec fuel from Brownsville Marina. They have small storage tanks, sell a lot to commercial boats and have fuel delivered once a week to every other week. I call them before going to see if they have enough fuel and try to fill right after delivery.

 

[syjos]

In case anyone cares... ValveTec is just an additive that the marina adds to their storage tanks after they get a fuel delivery. Considering how large I believe the capacity of the tanks are, the amount I saw them add seems small and pretty unscientific in the measurement.

-the more you know

ValveTec Marine Diesel:

Today’s low and ultra-low sulfur diesel fuels destabilize more rapidly, offer poor lubricity, contain higher levels of moisture and are more susceptible to bacterial growth and filter plugging than higher sulfur diesel. Because sulfur helped to lubricate the fuel system, premature injector and fuel pump wear may also occur.

ValvTect Marine Premium Diesel contains BioGuard™ biocide, lubricity improver, water dispersant, corrosion inhibitor and fuel stabilizer and is specifically formulated to prevent problems caused by the reduction of sulfur content.

ValvTect Marine Diesel with BioGuard™ is "specially formulated" for your marine diesel engine. It requires no additional fuel additives to protect your engine, eliminating any risk of improper additive use and saves time and money. ValvTect Marine Diesel with BioGuard™ protects your marine engine with these additional features and benefits.

Valvtect Marine Diesel Vs. Commercial Diesel Fuel

 

[Woodland Hills]

I use Technol 403 in my fuel whenever I fill up. We burn about 2000 gallons a year traveling between the Bahamas, Florida and the Chesapeake Bay and New England. Without the additive I would get light smoke on startup, with the Technol there is no smoke. I have a pair of 12-71’s with over 5000 hours.

BTW, the most successful additive for my diesels is Restore oil treatment! Adding it to my oil changes has completely stopped the need to add oil between 100hr changes in both my generators. I’m so impressed that I added it to the mains last oil change. So far it has cut consumption to nearly zero in my high time Detroits. For the record I have a 12kw Northern Lights with a 3-cyl Kubota and a 20kw 4-cyl Onan, both with over 3500hrs.

 

[justaddwater]

ATF is what my guy says- Seems to do a good job and I've had no issues over the years-

 

[Steve DAntonio]

Additives are a subject that have been discussed here on several occasions. It's a fraught subject as virtually every comment is anecdotal, including my own. It can be summarized as, "I always use XYZ additive and have never had a fuel problem, therefore XYZ additive is preventing me from having fuel problems". Unless, however, you run a control on this experiment it's of little value.

I am not a fan of biocides (BioBor and others) if they are not needed, and they are only needed if water is present, as biological life cannot exist without water. If you have water in the tank, the bio life is only part of the problem, you have the potential for corrosion and fuel injection system damage as well, and thus good reason to have a means of water removal, and once the water is gone, there's no bio growth issue.

I'm not suggesting BioBor doesn't work, it is a biocide, I'm simply saying using it prophylacticly, without water is unnecessary, and if you do have water, you have other problems. Biocides treat the symptom rather than the cause.

Some additives use an emulsifier, which enables fuel and water to mix, sending the water into the combustion chamber and out the exhaust. IMO this is less than ideal, we go through a lot of trouble to separate water from fuel and capture it in filters. Emulsification reverses that, albeit a little bit at a time. Most engine manufacturers prohibit alcohol based emulsifiers, so watch out for those especially.

Others, like Stanadyne PF and StaBil use a demulsifier, which promotes separation of water from fuel, so it can be drained off from a tank well drain, or a stripper tube. If you have the ability to remove water from a tank bottom, a demulsifier makes much more sense IMO.

I have nothing to go by except 30+ years of professional use in both clients' and my own engines, i.e. anecdotal, and I use Stanadyne Performance Formula with every tank, and Gold Eagle StaBil for stabilization.

More on additives here https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/diesel-fuel-additives-part-i/

Fuel tank design and stripper tubes here https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/cleaning-diesel-tanks/

Stanadyne PF does the following...

Restores/Increase Horsepower: Detergents clean deposits in the injection system resulting in improved combustion, better acceleration, power, and torque

Reduces Fuel Consumption: Independent tests show an average of 4% improvement in MPG and gains up to 9.6%

Cetane Improver: Improves combustion resulting in better engine starting, smooth running, and reduced engine noise

Meets all engine fuel system requirements and will not harm exhaust aftertreatment systems

Reduces Emissions: Reduces smoke and particulates

Cleans and Protects: Detergents and deposit modifiers help protect injection pumps, injectors, nozzles, etc.

Reduces Wear: Lubricity improvers restore lubricity to ultra low sulfur and other low lubricity diesel fuels

Stabilizes Fuel: Keeps fuel fresher and protects against formations of gums caused by oxidation

Cold Weather Protection: Improves diesel pour point up to 40°F (22°C), and cold filter plug point by up to 25°F (13°C), depending on base fuel

Corrosion Preventative: Corrosion inhibitors will protect the fuel system from rust and corrosion

Helps Remove Water: Special demulsifiers cause tiny water droplets to come out of suspension/emulsion, so the filter/separator can more effectively remove water

Contains No Alcohol: Avoids corrosion and accelerated wear

Specially formulated for use with ultra low sulfur diesel fuel

Can also be used with Bio Diesel Fuel up to B20 (20% bio content approved), increased water separation shown in bio content up to B20

 

[Gulf Comanche]

I have a 4-236 Perkins and dont want to jinx anything by adding stuff. 3005 hours, light smoke at startup, then clean burning to shutdown.

 

[timb7734]

Most additives are looking for a problem that does not exist. Additives are a waste of money unless there is an actual problem such as extreme water contamination or gelling in freezing temperatures. All diesel fuel has a natural water component, elimination of which is overkill unless the contamination is extreme such as showing up in a Racor. I owned a business for 45 years, until I retired, that utilized hundreds of diesel trucks operating more than 25 million miles per year, and, only used additives when experiencing gelling when extremely cold. Buying fresh quality fuel is the most important. I never put boats away for the season full of fuel, rather, I try to minimize the fuel on board so that after storage, I can fill with the maximum amount of fresh fuel. Were I to use an additive it would be Power Service Diesel Treatment as opposed to Power Service Diesel Kleen. Diesel fuel loses 1% of its Cetane rating per month, if storing for more than a season I would add a dose of Diesel Treatment.

 

[Andosan]

Pump diesel has an inadequate lubricity level that ValveTec fuel addresses.

Countless hours on marine diesels on commercial boats and recreational boats that use commercial fuel suppliers would suggest otherwise.

 

[syjos]

In case anyone cares... ValveTec is just an additive that the marina adds to their storage tanks after they get a fuel delivery. Considering how large I believe the capacity of the tanks are, the amount I saw them add seems small and pretty unscientific in the measurement.

-the more you know

ValveTec is not added to the storage tank at the marina:

ValvTect

ValvTect Marine Fuels (www.valvtect.com ) doesn’t sell just an additive. It sells ValvTect Marine Gasoline and Premium Diesel — with additives already in it — to ValvTect-certified marinas and fuel docks. Tanks, filters and other features of these fuel facilities must be inspected and approved by ValvTect representatives. This includes ascertaining that the tanks are clean and contain no water or other contaminants, such as bacteria or algae.

“We have formulated ValvTect Marine Premium Diesel with BioGuard biocide, lubricity improver, water dispersant, corrosion inhibitor and fuel stabilizer to prevent problems caused by the reduced sulfur content,” says Jerry Nessenson, ValvTect president. “ValvTect Marine Premium Diesel requires no additional fuel additives, thus eliminating the risk of using the wrong fuel additives, saving time and a lot of money.”

He says the extra cost to the retailer for ValvTect Marine Fuels is usually about 3 cents a gallon, though retailers may charge more to the customer.
ValvTect’s water dispersant is an emulsifier that keeps water in suspension, Nessenson says. The industry standard for water content in diesel is 500 ppm. Nessenson says diesel usually leaves the refinery with 50 to 80 ppm of water, but moisture can build up in the fuel while it is in the tank at the marina or on the boat. A good water separator filter on the boat can remove — within limits — harmful amounts of water suspended in the fuel.

He warns against using some over-the-counter additives that can cause water to sink to the bottom of the tank, resulting in a high water-to-fuel ratio that breeds bacteria and forms sludge. Other additives have too much glycol, which absorbs water but can cause engine problems or even engine failure. Alcohol- or methanol-based additives should never be used, he says.

ValvTect’s BioGuard isn’t fuel-soluble like some biocides, Nessenson says, which means that instead of remaining in suspension, it settles to the bottom of the fuel tank, where the bacteria grows and where the biocide is most needed. He says tests show BioGuard is 90 percent faster-acting and more effective than fuel-soluble biocides.

Nessenson says biodiesel treated with ValvTect diesel additive with BioGuard prevents problems sometimes associated with untreated biodiesel. If you don’t have a ValvTect fuel dock in your area, you can buy ValvTect’s additives at marine supply stores. See www.valvtect.com.

ValvTect Marine Gasoline contains additives that can prevent problems associated with ethanol blends, such as octane loss, poor stability and phase separation, he says. However, if a large amount of water gets into the fuel and causes phase separation, he says, no additive can safely correct the problem. It is best then to hire a professional to pump and clean out the tank.

Nessenson says ValvTect’s performance claims are substantiated by petroleum industry tests under SAE and ASTM test standards and protocols. He says the tests show ValvTect gasoline and diesel improve fuel economy 8 percent when used continuously. Also, he says the tests show the fuels remain stabilized up to a year without additional additives.

 

[dhays]

Indoor storage is different I agree. For those of us outdoors in a cold climate for several months, I believe filling the tanks is still recommended. It's also nice to start the season full and not have to purchase any fuel for a good while.

Rod Collins (CMS on this site) wrote a good article on this subject that I can't find right now. After reading it, I decided to not worry about condensation in the tanks and I've never had any water in the Racors. I am in a relatively mild climate however.

 

[Andosan]

Here’s my main issue with the claims made by fuel additive makers, in particular the claims about performance and engine life enhancement:

There is no credible data anywhere to support either their claims of the problems that modern diesel fuels cause or their claims that their products rectify those problems.

Given that low sulphur fuels have been in use for several decades now, and considering the sheer numbers of large Diesel engines in recreational, commercial and industrial use around the world, you’d think that there would be a mountain of data to support these claims. There isn’t.

Now it’s possible that the additive packages in bulk diesel have been modified to make up for reducing sulphur but if that’s the case then “aftermarket” additives are unnecessary anyway.

One exception is additives that address physical properties of diesel such as biocides or freeze point modifiers. Those benefits are easy to observe and document.

 

[mvweebles]

Additives are a subject that have been discussed here on several occasions. It's a fraught subject as virtually every comment is anecdotal, including my own. It can be summarized as, "I always use XYZ additive and have never had a fuel problem, therefore XYZ additive is preventing me from having fuel problems". Unless, however, you run a control on this experiment it's of little value.

I am not a fan of biocides (BioBor and others) if they are not needed, and they are only needed if water is present, as biological life cannot exist without water. If you have water in the tank, the bio life is only part of the problem, you have the potential for corrosion and fuel injection system damage as well, and thus good reason to have a means of water removal, and once the water is gone, there's no bio growth issue.

I'm not suggesting BioBor doesn't work, it is a biocide, I'm simply saying using it prophylacticly, without water is unnecessary, and if you do have water, you have other problems. Biocides treat the symptom rather than the cause.

Some additives use an emulsifier, which enables fuel and water to mix, sending the water into the combustion chamber and out the exhaust. IMO this is less than ideal, we go through a lot of trouble to separate water from fuel and capture it in filters. Emulsification reverses that, albeit a little bit at a time. Most engine manufacturers prohibit alcohol based emulsifiers, so watch out for those especially.

Others, like Stanadyne PF and StaBil use a demulsifier, which promotes separation of water from fuel, so it can be drained off from a tank well drain, or a stripper tube. If you have the ability to remove water from a tank bottom, a demulsifier makes much more sense IMO.

I have nothing to go by except 30+ years of professional use in both clients' and my own engines, i.e. anecdotal, and I use Stanadyne Performance Formula with every tank, and Gold Eagle StaBil for stabilization.

More on additives here https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/diesel-fuel-additives-part-i/

Fuel tank design and stripper tubes here https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/cleaning-diesel-tanks/

Stanadyne PF does the following...

Restores/Increase Horsepower: Detergents clean deposits in the injection system resulting in improved combustion, better acceleration, power, and torque

Reduces Fuel Consumption: Independent tests show an average of 4% improvement in MPG and gains up to 9.6%

Cetane Improver: Improves combustion resulting in better engine starting, smooth running, and reduced engine noise

Meets all engine fuel system requirements and will not harm exhaust aftertreatment systems

Reduces Emissions: Reduces smoke and particulates

Cleans and Protects: Detergents and deposit modifiers help protect injection pumps, injectors, nozzles, etc.

Reduces Wear: Lubricity improvers restore lubricity to ultra low sulfur and other low lubricity diesel fuels

Stabilizes Fuel: Keeps fuel fresher and protects against formations of gums caused by oxidation

Cold Weather Protection: Improves diesel pour point up to 40°F (22°C), and cold filter plug point by up to 25°F (13°C), depending on base fuel

Corrosion Preventative: Corrosion inhibitors will protect the fuel system from rust and corrosion

Helps Remove Water: Special demulsifiers cause tiny water droplets to come out of suspension/emulsion, so the filter/separator can more effectively remove water

Contains No Alcohol: Avoids corrosion and accelerated wear

Specially formulated for use with ultra low sulfur diesel fuel

Can also be used with Bio Diesel Fuel up to B20 (20% bio content approved), increased water separation shown in bio content up to B20

Thanks Steve. I thought stanadyne was an emulsifier which apparently it is not. Diamond Diesel in Oakland CA as well as a couple mechanics I respect have always recommended it so I've used it for years. I'll add your name to the list, albeit with caution.

Thanks so much for your input.

Peter

 

[backinblue]

I will continue to use this, it's approved by Yanmar and recommended by engine suppliers and mechanics. I can't verify if it does what it claims and may be a total waste of money. On the other hand, it probably does no harm and if it gives any small benefits, it's cheap insurance.

https://fppf.com/product/marine-diesel-fuel-treatment/

 

[Phil23]

For my 10 cents worth do not mix addatives, I has a reaction between two which necessitated cleaning out 1000 litre fuel tank. I ended up with a sawdust like crud that blocked outlet valve and primary filter.

 

[AusCan]

I use no additives, but do have clean fuel tanks with a sump. Nothing else required.

 

[FF]

"The industry standard for water content in diesel is 500 ppm. Nessenson says diesel usually leaves the refinery with 50 to 80 ppm of water, but moisture can build up in the fuel while it is in the tank at the marina or on the boat. A good water separator filter on the boat can remove — within limits — harmful amounts of water suspended in the fuel."

This is the pipeline standard , the local distributor is "supposed" to remove water locally , before distribution.

Our local simply lets the fuel stand after adding de emulsifier for a couple of days and pumps most of the water out the bottom of the tank.

"I use no additives, but do have clean fuel tanks with a sump. Nothing else required."
Post 56

This is the only onboard sure cure, as even with 50% water , gravity is your friend and clean fuel just takes time .

 

[bykpjfk]

Another vote for Diesel Klean

I started using Diesel Klean years ago to solve a soot problem after long high speed runs. It worked great at almost eliminating the soot (fuel was $1/gallon then, I now run at hull speed).
After further learning, I found that Diesel Klean also raised the cetane level. My early Yanmars specified 44 cetance, and always ran better after taking on fuel in the Bahamas, which uses 44 cetane diesel. The US standard is 40. Seems the rest of the world specifies 44 cetane.


Dan

Passport
Palm City, Fl

 

[Nomad Willy]

I was amazed how much better my boat ran after topping off (from 1/2 full) twice with Valve Tect. Quieter, smoother, idle so much smoother and still smooth down an additional 100 RPM than before VT. Since a tank usually lasts me close to a year, and I top off when it gets to 1/2 full, I do need the stabilization factor in VT, and boost the biocide with Biobor JF - maybe a little overkill. But, at 15 years old (3 years mine) and around 1600 hours, I am completely delighted with the Camano's Volvo TAMD41P-A. I plan fuels stops around Valve-Tect marinas.

And you’re sure it’s the additives that make you engine run good? Cause and effect have a lot of variables beyond timing. I’m convinced that a stabilizer and biobore or equivalent are probably helpful or even necessary but the only way to up the validity of the VT having an effect is to stop using it and observe.
See post #53

I worked in a diesel powerhouse in Alaska and the fuel was barged in and put in storage tanks. We ran a 1440hp Enterprise 16X 20 engine w turbo. Lots of that fuel sat in the tanks for many months as we were shut down for winter for 7 mos. and I don’t recall usage of any additive.
But I use Bio-Bore and Sta-bil in my boat tanks.

In your case perhaps Volvo engines are just wonderful engines. My Mitsubishi sure is.

 

[Nomad Willy]

I use no additives, but do have clean fuel tanks with a sump. Nothing else required.

What’s the configuration of your sump?
Does it constitute a water trap?