Detroit diesel question

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Lostsailor13

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2020
Messages
439
Location
Usa
Vessel Name
Broadbill
Vessel Make
Willard 36
What I'm trying to do is to disconnect my hot water heater tank which has 2 lines from the engine circulating coolant to heat water and hook up dickinson stove with 2 coil turn in firebox with small circulating pump to use engine as heat source as well by pumping the pre warmed antifreeze through the oil cooler and heat exchanger,the hoses are all already there from the hot water cooler but my question is about the thermostat,will I have to bypass it and if so how
 
A 2 turn coil will remove some heat from the fire chamber but not put much heat into the unit.


The hot water from the Dickinson is heated because the contact of the liquids in the tank pipe.
Even the 7 turn coil wont help.
 
FF, I've always been skeptical of those little water coil turns but haven't owned a bulkhead heater to really evaluate them.

I did spend the winter in a cabin in New Zealand which was only heated by a fireplace, and there were some coils run into it to heat the water. It was completely useless.

I've noticed that one Scandinavian bulkhead heater however, rated at about 36kbtu states in its specs that only 16kbtu are from air and the balance from the water loop. So it is assumed they are effective.

Would be good to know anyone's experience here with the loops and if it's enough to run to various cabins for remote heat.
 
I'm not sure what the OP is trying to do. If the intent is to create cabin heat by having warm engine coolant circulating thru the coils of the Dickinson, when the when stove is not lit, the heat transfer from the coolant isn't going to warm things up much. If the intent is to use the coolant loop in the Dickinson to circulate warmed coolant to the engine when the stove it lit, it would do that. The coils in the stove don't heat what's circulating in them very quickly. The idea is that the stove is running for hours or continuously and the coils just keep circulating. Eventually what's circulated gets hot, sometimes too hot and you have to figure out what to do with the waste heat.
 
We have a 7 turn copper coil in a floor mounted unit.It heats about 20 ft of 3/4 base board tubing run thru the engine room (5ft) and the fwd cabin 8ft + almost 8ft).

Happily the unit is in the galley with the PH right behind , so a water header rank is located near the overhead of the PH.

By using rubber washing machine hose a loop, a gentle descending run from tank to heater was created. This thermosyphons the water , so it circulates with no pump. This was done on homes in the early 1900's , and I was delighted that it worked with only about 8 ft of height rise.Circ water is 135F most times at the tank top..

One failure was when I replaced the rubber hose with copper tubing the circulation stopped .2 - 90 deg turns were too much resistance , replaced with "slow ells" from the refrigeration folks.

Much heat is given off by the exhaust pipe

I have lived aboard , mostly in T shirts thru dozens of NYC winters , 20F ish at night ,35F days is common. Lowest was -17F , interior was still 65F or so .

This required 4 gallons per day of diesel .

The copper coils must be water filled at all times .
 
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