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Old 09-26-2022, 03:58 PM   #1
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Dedicated Windlass Battery

Pearl, our "new 2008 Beneteau Flyer 12" soon to be renamed aggravation is almost ready for her second splash day. The PO (or someone) made some changes with the batteries and one is AWOL.

We have new P & S start batteries, 2 8D house batteries and a start battery for the Onan Genset.

We are missing a dedicated windlass battery and I can't seem to find any CCA specs for a dedicated windlass battery. The windlass is an older Lewmar V2 or V4. As it is currently wired it will only work with the engine running. Naturally I'd like a separate dedicated windlass battery and would appreciate any advice or guidance as to CCA specs & size.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-26-2022, 07:12 PM   #2
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Battery issue aside, running engines while using the windlass is usual. My Muir horizontal draws about 1200watts, Muir always advise running engine(s) during drop/retrieve.
Bowthruster and windlass sometimes share a battery.
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Old 09-26-2022, 07:30 PM   #3
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Battery issue aside, running engines while using the windlass is usual. My Muir horizontal draws about 1200watts, Muir always advise running engine(s) during drop/retrieve.
Bowthruster and windlass sometimes share a battery.
+1.
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Old 09-27-2022, 06:26 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Easternshore View Post
The PO (or someone) made some changes with the batteries and one is AWOL.

We have new P & S start batteries, 2 8D house batteries and a start battery for the Onan Genset.

We are missing a dedicated windlass battery and I can't seem to find any CCA specs for a dedicated windlass battery.

If you haven't already, you might try turning off specific batteries/banks one at a time to be sure what's powering the windlass now.

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Old 09-27-2022, 01:43 PM   #5
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Battery issue aside, running engines while using the windlass is usual. My Muir horizontal draws about 1200watts, Muir always advise running engine(s) during drop/retrieve.
Bowthruster and windlass sometimes share a battery.


Thanks Bruce, I agree about running the engine while using the windlass. PO wired the windlass & port engine to share a battery. Iíd rather not share my start batteries.
I was guessing an AGM group 27 or 34 for the windlass and keeping it on a separate circuit.
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Old 09-27-2022, 01:45 PM   #6
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If you haven't already, you might try turning off specific batteries/banks one at a time to be sure what's powering the windlass now.

-Chris


Thanks Chris, the windlass was sharing my port start battery, which is contrary to what the Beneteau wiring diagram states regarding having a separate windlass battery.
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Old 09-27-2022, 01:46 PM   #7
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+1.


Thanks Dave, Iím guessing +1 means add an additional battery?
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Old 09-27-2022, 02:39 PM   #8
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+1 means he/she is in agreement.
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Old 09-27-2022, 05:23 PM   #9
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What's wrong with the current arrangement? What problem are you trying to fix?

If the existing wiring is sized correctly I'd leave it as is.
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Old 09-27-2022, 05:58 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Easternshore View Post
Pearl, our "new 2008 Beneteau Flyer 12" soon to be renamed aggravation is almost ready for her second splash day. The PO (or someone) made some changes with the batteries and one is AWOL.

We have new P & S start batteries, 2 8D house batteries and a start battery for the Onan Genset.

We are missing a dedicated windlass battery and I can't seem to find any CCA specs for a dedicated windlass battery. The windlass is an older Lewmar V2 or V4. As it is currently wired it will only work with the engine running. Naturally I'd like a separate dedicated windlass battery and would appreciate any advice or guidance as to CCA specs & size.

Thanks in advance.
I get the feeling you want redundancy. If so, figure out if you want a start battery, or a deep cycle battery for the windlass. I'm thinking deep cycle for extended use. I would also attach a separate charger for that battery. Because I have OCD, I would attach a battery switch to the wiring already running to the windless. I would leave it off. It's there in case your battery dies in the future.
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Old 09-27-2022, 07:11 PM   #11
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Thanks Dave, I’m guessing +1 means add an additional battery?
My +1 was that I agreed with the post I quoted.
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Old 09-27-2022, 07:13 PM   #12
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I get the feeling you want redundancy. If so, figure out if you want a start battery, or a deep cycle battery for the windlass. I'm thinking deep cycle for extended use. I would also attach a separate charger for that battery. Because I have OCD, I would attach a battery switch to the wiring already running to the windless. I would leave it off. It's there in case your battery dies in the future.
I use starting batteries for windlasses since they are a high draw intermittent usage device. Deep cycle are generally for lower draw and more constant usage.
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Old 09-27-2022, 07:23 PM   #13
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Thanks Bruce, I agree about running the engine while using the windlass. PO wired the windlass & port engine to share a battery. Iíd rather not share my start batteries.
I was guessing an AGM group 27 or 34 for the windlass and keeping it on a separate circuit.
Your original post says the windlass only runs if engines are running, but now knowing it is connected to a start battery (even though a different battery is preferred) it should get some power, even without engines running. I`m wondering about the condition of that start battery.
Two start batteries, one port one stbd, often parallel automatically for starting, so a sick start batt might not be obvious.
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Old 09-27-2022, 07:58 PM   #14
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I use starting batteries for windlasses since they are a high draw intermittent usage device. Deep cycle are generally for lower draw and more constant usage.
30-45 minutes is not unusual for me when running the windlass. I have 500 feet of 1/2 inch (I'm typically at 250-300 feet), and it's sticky mud in this area. Takes me a long time to bring it in as I use the wash down pump. I have two Lifeline agm 4Ds deep cycle. I do notice the motor is slower than my last boat, but I was attributing this to the high torque windlass. I'm wondering if starting batteries would last for this type of use and/or make the motor run faster?
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Old 09-28-2022, 05:44 AM   #15
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. I’d rather not share my start batteries.
.
Why?
Alt should be smashing the amps in.


We ran for several years with no alt at all, just a small victron smart charger on starts/windlass battery on 60 ft and 65 tonne anchoring daily, never an issue and we usually pull boat to anchor with windlass.

Now we have an alt again with same victron smart charger
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Old 09-28-2022, 07:48 AM   #16
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I use starting batteries for windlasses since they are a high draw intermittent usage device. Deep cycle are generally for lower draw and more constant usage.
So many routes to the same destination. Our boat uses the house bank (eight golf car deep cycle batteries) to run the windlass. Since we always have the engines running, the alternator output mitigates the draw on the batteries. In fact, I rather doubt that there is much draw on the batteries at all.
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Old 09-28-2022, 07:50 AM   #17
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Why?
Alt should be smashing the amps in.


We ran for several years with no alt at all, just a small victron smart charger on starts/windlass battery on 60 ft and 65 tonne anchoring daily, never an issue and we usually pull boat to anchor with windlass.

Now we have an alt again with same victron smart charger
We have no starting batteries. The house bank does all the work. Starting batteries are wholly unnecesary unless on believes the redundnacy of a generator or generator starting batteries are inadequate.
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Old 09-28-2022, 07:54 AM   #18
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When we bought our current boat it had a FLA battery for the windlass and bow thruster. I repetitively blew the ANL fuse if you used the thruster too much. Connections were fine as was wiring size. I don’t like FLA on a boat. Especially someplace where there’s the potential for a lot of motion. That battery is under the sole in the forward stateroom. So I replaced it with a lifeline AGM. Now the fuse doesn’t blow and there’s a lot less brush dust from the thruster. Also windlass performance improvement occurred.
Think both thruster and windlass are sensitive to voltage drop. Think you get less volt drop with a battery in good condition and having the engine running. Agree you always have the engine on when using either. Don’t think even a high output alternator is adequate to keep voltages up without going to a separate battery. Think that’s due to multiple factors. We will use the thruster and the windlass together. Like no angle when retrieving or laying down chain. With the battery forward wiring runs are very short and the battery starts the exercise at 100% soc. Life is good.
We like to leave early in the day. That’s when our house bank is at its lowest. Constant draw over night and nothing coming in from genset, solar or alternator. Given the size of the house bank don’t think asking it to run the windlass and thrusters then is a good idea. Probably could increase the size of the house bank but rather have the boat not list (that bank is in the starboard side of the ER) and need the weight of the forward battery to not be dragging our butt.
Think the size of the alternator doesn’t matter once you’re past rate of acceptance of the battery. Some folks have very large house banks or have Li so this is a non issue. We don’t so get by with separate batteries for the bow functions, another for the genset, another for the stern thruster, another for main engine with the house bank only doing hotel loads. A side benefit is we can switch loads around so will always be able to be functional if any one bank or battery goes bad.
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Old 09-28-2022, 08:19 AM   #19
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Your original post says the windlass only runs if engines are running, but now knowing it is connected to a start battery (even though a different battery is preferred) it should get some power, even without engines running.
I picked up on this too. If, for some reason, the windlass is inoperable without an engine running, there is a safety risk. A common procedure when engine dies underway is to drop an anchor. If your windlass includes power-out, you'll need be aware of manual over-ride capability. If the event culminates in a tow, you will need to manually retrieve the anchor which may take hours if it's even possible.

Are you sure windlass doesn't work unless engine is running? Sounds like a control issue, not a battery issue, meaning windlass control is somehow wired into engine, perhaps ignition switch.

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Old 09-28-2022, 03:02 PM   #20
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What's wrong with the current arrangement? What problem are you trying to fix?

If the existing wiring is sized correctly I'd leave it as is.


Hi Jeff, thanks, boat is a recent purchase, weíre missing one battery, specs call for 6, P & S start, 2 house, generator and windlass, a dedicated windlass battery, PO wired windlass to port engine battery as well as wired genset to stbrd start. Iíd rather keep starting batteries separate and use Beneteauís original specs. I had an extra 34m for the generator and looking to add a windlass battery.
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