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Old 03-10-2019, 09:14 PM   #21
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Update

I will trace out every cable soon. Engines are 220HP Cummings 5.9 , Alternators stock Delco Remy, I don't have info but I think they are approx 85 amps. Up grade to Prestolite Leece-Nelville Idle Pro AVI 160-2008 210amps Continuous Duty. It is made for school buses, etc. make 170Amps at Idle all day long, 14.0 volts
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Old 03-11-2019, 06:09 AM   #22
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"Up grade to Prestolite Leece-Nelville Idle Pro AVI 160-2008 210amps Continuous Duty. It is made for school buses, etc. make 170Amps at Idle all day long, 14.0 volts"


A smart 3 or 4 stage V regulator with a batt temp sensor would be a great addition.
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Old 03-11-2019, 06:24 AM   #23
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"Up grade to Prestolite Leece-Nelville Idle Pro AVI 160-2008 210amps Continuous Duty. It is made for school buses, etc. make 170Amps at Idle all day long, 14.0 volts"


A smart 3 or 4 stage V regulator with a batt temp sensor would be a great addition.
AND an alternator temp sensor.
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Old 03-11-2019, 01:34 PM   #24
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I looked up the Delco alternator. You likely had a 15SI which was 85A. THere are others close but they produce either more or less current. These alternators were used on the 6bts.

Will go back and study the schematics and hopefully I can see something
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Old 03-11-2019, 03:44 PM   #25
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Don't run without the belt!! A Cummins B220 one of the pulleys is the coolant circ pump. Yep, sea water pump is gear driven, but not the coolant pump.
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Old 03-11-2019, 04:01 PM   #26
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Don't run without the belt!! A Cummins B220 one of the pulleys is the coolant circ pump. Yep, sea water pump is gear driven, but not the coolant pump.
I knew there was something else that the belt did!!!!
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Old 03-14-2019, 03:43 AM   #27
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original cummins installation the alternator plugs in. sounds like you have replaced the plug (and maybe some of the original loom) with direct wiring.
in itself that is a good thing to do, but it is possible you have "lost" the diode contained in the engine wiring loom in this process.
this diode is within the wire which provides power from the key switch to excite the alternator on startup. after that it is self excited (unless you have an external exciter which i think you have said you do not)
if diode is missing it is possible you are now backfeeding from the alternator to the output side of the key switch when the engine is running thus effectively bypassing the key switch , that i believe is the reason for engine not stopping when you turned off the key switch.

your 10A breaker is tripping because it is carrying more than 10A, by your own readings, it is supposed to do that ??? if the diode is missing then key switch feed is still connected to the exciter circuit when the engine is running, this could be the reason for your excess amps.
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Old 03-30-2019, 03:57 PM   #28
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Loom had 3 wires, only 2 were used originally, I reduced to 1. The W wire feeds the tach, unit is self exciting, no other wires needed. Hook up for sensor S. Haven't seen a diode nor removed one. When the engine didn't stop, I think is a big clue.
I haven't worked on Alternator set up, I have been Macgyvering a lot. Had a Xantrex inverter fail, have to keep the frozen food cold. I brought a spare inverter charger. Not much here it is really remote. Solar has helped alot. I will reread all the info you guys send me and tackle this problem.
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