Cruising info for Maine to Prince Edward Island

[TJM]

Wife and I are a few years from retirement and doing some preliminary planning about where to travel to. We have been all around Southern New England and wondered about local knowledge further up the Eastern Seaboard to Nova Scotia - New Brunswick ?
We have taken our car up to Arcadia National park and Boothbay Maine and it looks awesome. We don't seem to see much info compared to the PNW.

 

[Jeff F]

I wasn't sure whether you were asking about the Maine coast or the areas beyond the border. I'll speak to the Canadian areas.

There is lots to see and do on the Atlantic coast of NS from Yarmouth to the Bras D'Or Lakes in Cape Breton. Hop across from NE Maine and follow the coast.

PEI and the north shore of NB aren't really cruising destinations. The Saint John River is nice fresh water cruising running inland from St John NB up to around Fredericton. Not too far from the US border.

Once you get to Cape Breton if you want to go further hop over to the south coast of Newfoundland, or St Pierre/Miquelon or the Magdalon Islands. But most folks traveling from New England turn around at that point. It's a pretty short season in the Gulf of St Lawrence.

 

[Sailor of Fortune]

Or go through Canso Locks and head to PEI directly

 

[twistedtree]

Or go through Canso Locks and head to PEI directly

That's how we went, though in the other direction coming from Quebec down the St Lawrence.

 

[DDW]

The geography and feel are somewhat like the PNW. Not really that much to visit on the NB coast or the south side of the Gulf of the St. Lawrence. PEI is a beautiful island, but only a couple of ports - really need to tour by car. The NS east coast is very nice as is the Bra D'or. Newfoundland is something like the PNW without the cedar trees and much less sheltered water. You won't find friendlier people anywhere in the world.

 

[BruceK]

We toured PEI by bicycle. Flat, but with headwinds. Very welcoming. Absolutely worth visiting but by boat,I can`t say.

 

[Mischief Managed]

Wife and I are a few years from retirement and doing some preliminary planning about where to travel to. We have been all around Southern New England and wondered about local knowledge further up the Eastern Seaboard to Nova Scotia - New Brunswick ?
We have taken our car up to Arcadia National park and Boothbay Maine and it looks awesome. We don't seem to see much info compared to the PNW.

I have zero experience cruising north of Bar Harbor, but I have explored NS and Newfoundland coasts quite a bit by car. I found them quite interesting and very friendly, but for the most part, not touristy, at least not like Boothbay or Bar Harbor are. I am rather fond of Corner Brook, NL and intend to visit it by boat some day. It's one of the most unusual seaside ports I have ever been to in the east because of the combination of a waterfront and a decent-sized ski area in the same town.



You can spend years exploring the Maine coast. It's quite beautiful and there's just so much of it to see. I really like going up the rivers and seeing the old mill towns. Again, not touristy, but to me quite interesting. If you study your charts, you will find that there are a few loop cruises you can do using different rivers. One of my favorites uses the Sheepscot, Sasanoa and Kenebec Rivers.

 

[CaptTom]

We hit a lot of Nova Scotia and New Brunswick on our Down East Loop trip in 2016. Hard to believe it was that long ago. But the blog I kept (link above) may still be of some use.

 

[Hippocampus]

We did the loop on motorcycles from Halifax, lighthouse trail, Cabot then back down the Atlantic side. Was interested in strip plank construction so spent time looking at Westermans at Covey island . Great fun on motorcycles. But paid attention to the tides and they look extreme and viscous. At least in the bay of fundy everything seemed to lie on its side for part of the day. We don’t have fins (Seakeeper) and our running gear is fully protected but it’s nice to be able to get to shore or wander in the dinghy.

Wondering about the pragmatics of cruising that far north. Can you find anchorages that are deep enough and still allow access to shore? Can you tie to commercial or other docks. If something breaks is there any infrastructure to fix it if you don’t have the parts, specialized tools or skill set?

Have spent time both on the bike and cruising on the boat in Washington county Maine. Now empty after the failure of fishing/canning, lumber and blueberries as major industries. Much of the coast never developed with first growth. So there’s places untouched by the hand of man. Beautiful part of the world but sad to see the fish packing plants, docks, houses all decaying.

Truly want to go further north but as said above concerned about the current pragmatics of cruising the maritimes. Has anyone done it recently? Given Covid restrictions I hope there’s Canadians here who could share their experience and insights.

 

[DDW]

It isn't touristy north (east) of Bar Harbor but it is inhabited. That isn't necessarily a bad thing. The tides aren't really much of a problem, less so than the PNW because of the lack of passes and currents. Harbors and/or anchorages are pretty frequent, and once in Canada there are town docks (painted with a yellow curb) that can be stayed at, often for free. We went into Baddeck, St. Peters, Liscomb, Halifax, Mahone Bay, Lunenburg on NS and Cape Breton, all worth a visit, all with docks or marinas for yachts. There is infrastructure to reprovision and repair in each of those except Liscomb. That makes it much more civilized than the mid BC coast or SE AK. The south coast of Newfoundland is more remote, but still has towns here and there and the remains of fishing infrastructure.

 

[Hippocampus]

Thanks D will read up on it. Figure late summer early fall the waters have warmed up a bit so a good time to cruise?

 

[Jeff F]

The Bay of Fundy and Minas Basin aren't typically traveled by cruisers. Tides in the Minas Basin can have a range of 40+ feet! If you're coming from the US you want to get across the Gulf of Maine to the SW tip of NS and then head up the Atlantic coast.

I cruised NS extensively this summer, starting in the Northumberland Strait after coming down the St Lawrence and ending in Barrington Passage, then across to Bar Harbor from there. Great trip. No shortage of anchorages and small ports. Most have a government dock used by fishermen. Tides aren't an issue once clear of Fundy.

 

[Jeff F]

You can spend years exploring the Maine coast. It's quite beautiful and there's just so much of it to see. I really like going up the rivers and seeing the old mill towns. Again, not touristy, but to me quite interesting. If you study your charts, you will find that there are a few loop cruises you can do using different rivers. One of my favorites uses the Sheepscot, Sasanoa and Kenebec Rivers.

I went up to Bath from Boothbay Harbor, then up to Bowdoinham, and out the Kenebec River. Fabulous side trip! I was traveling south in November, so didn't have the luxury of exploring as much as I would have liked, but now want to spend more time in that area.

 

[DDW]

We came back south across the Cabot Strait to Cape Breton on Sept 13 and arrived in Maine Oct 8. That is considered latish in the season. I'm told it can be a bit of a trade off between late season weather and summer fog. The tourist things were already closing up or closed on the Bra D'or. This was on the sailboat - I'd not want to do some of that in an unstabilized trawler, particularly the 3 day run we did from Lunenburg to Maine around Cape Sable in somewhat sporty weather. Stabilized, and picking weather, it would be fine. And there were adequate anchorages all along for most of the distance, should you be caught out.

People like different things, for me I'd take north of Maine over south of Maine to Florida. Maine would be fine if they'd just control the lobster industry.

 

[Mischief Managed]

I went up to Bath from Boothbay Harbor, then up to Bowdoinham, and out the Kenebec River. Fabulous side trip! I was traveling south in November, so didn't have the luxury of exploring as much as I would have liked, but now want to spend more time in that area.

Is there a place to tie up or anchor in Bowdoinham?



We intend to got all the way to Augusta on one of our trips up the Kenebec some day, maybe next Summer. River boating is pretty cool.


If you ever find yourself on the NH coast, try a trip up the Piscataqua, then Cocheco River to Dover, NH. It's a beautiful trip that almost no one around here ever takes. There's no place to anchor in Dover (which has a great downtown), but you may be able to arrange transient dockage at George's Marina. If if you plan it right, the tidal current can really help you out both ways too. We have anchored in the Piscataqua less then four miles south east of Dover (near the overhead power lines) so you could do that and dinghy up to Dover if you wanted to.

 

[AnsleyS]

Mischief,


The trip up the Kennebec is a lot of fun and there is fine dockage at Bath, Richmond, Gardiner, Hallowell and Augusta. I have been up a few times and we live in Augusta in the winter.



Bowdoinham is fine in a dinghy or kayak but there are no facilities for boats up there and there is not much there anyway. We used to live there.

 

[Circumnavigator]

For starters, see https://issuu.com/cruisingclub/docs/voyages_2020 starting at page 94. The article covers a lot more water than you're talking about, but it's a start on your trip.



We've cruised the southeast coast of Nova Scotia extensively, to Cape Breton and PEI. I would plan on spending time on the Bras D'or Lakes rather than PEI. PEI is charming, but after you've spent a day at the House of the Green Gables, there's not much to do except play golf and not many harbours.


Nova Scotia is as interesting and friendly as the best of Maine and THERE ARE NO LOBSTER POTS. They avoid over fishing by having seasons and the traps are out of the water by the time we get there.



From Cape Sable to Halifax there are many harbours. Fewer from there to Canso, but enough. You'll want the CCA's two guides --
CCA Cruising Guide to Nova Scotia
CCA Cruising Guide to the Gulf of Saint Lawrence


I recommend Shelburne, Lunenburg, Baddeck highly, among many others.


Feel free to PM me with specific questions.


Jim

 

[Hippocampus]

Great article. Thanks D/J. Quite a trip.

 

[AnnapolisJoy]

Canadian cruising

Having cruised Maine, the Bay of Fundy and Nova Scotia to Halifax I can say you are in for a treat.

First realize that the tides in Fundy are only an issue when anchoring or visiting an marina. In Digby we had to climb a ramp at a 45 degree angle to get to shore!

That said know that when in Canadian waters you will be monitored by Fundy Control in the bay and Halifax control when off shore. They will be tracking you. Their Coast Guard is extremely friendly and helpful. Traffic and tide information is just a radio call away. Call for the reversing Falls current in St John.

Traversing the Bay of Fundy is a breeze. The trapping season is the opposite of the US. The bay will be clear of floating traps with the exception of a few strays.

Cruising the NS coast can be a challenge. Know that the currents can run over 6 knots in places like le Petite Passage south of Digby. Talk to the locals for advise.

Rounding Cape Sable there are no marinas and you should be prepared to anchor in a safe place for the overnight. Active Captain will help find one.

Do visit Shelburne, Loudenburg and Halifax. The seafood is devine.

Read up on Halifax and the disaster that destroyed the city during WW1. There is very strong bond with NY and Boston. Also read up on the Blue Nose and the competition on the high seas with the NY Yacht club.

Also, do not under any circumstances attempt to keep pace or out drink any Canadian. The most seasoned American will wake up late the next day and wonder what foolish thing they did the night before.


Have a great time. The Canadians are a wonderful and welcoming people.

 

[AnnapolisJoy]

Canada customs

Before leaving Maine do a precheckin on line with immigration. Once on file the best check in is Grand Manan Island. No agents there just a phone call and a few questions and you get your number to post in a window.

Key phrase for booze is “ships stores”. No need to inventory your wine for personal consumption.

Canada is concerned with untaxed booze and cigarettes that may be sold for a profit. US customs on return will be concerned with fruit and drugs.

 

[BandB]

Wifey B: What a wonderful cruise it can be. In 2018, we hit Halifax NS, Canso NS, Summerfield PE, Gaspe PQ, Saint-Anne-Des-Monts PQ, Tadoussac, PQ, Quebec PQ and Montreal PQ. What a wonderful six weeks it was. We also had friends who flew in to meet us in Montreal and Quebec. What a wonderful time it was. Yes, it was summer, late June to August.

One who was with us noted how nice it was to meet French Canadians in their natural habitat. I know that sounds strange at first but we have tens of thousands who visit South Florida each winter. Some great, some not, but they're all tourists when we meet them. So much different than going to Quebec. Sure is nice now when the tourists come to know more about their home areas. All of us when cruising to other places should keep in mind that it's often all locals know of our homes.

Before I ever made it to Puerto Rico, my hubby use to talk about how he loved the area and all the people he had met there while doing business. He emphasized their friendliness and politeness. Well, the only Puerto Rican's I'd med were via NY it seemed. Very different ways of doing things. Then we went to Puerto Rico and I saw some of what hubby knew.

Take the cruise to PEI or all the way to Montreal. Even loop back across Lake Ontario and through the canals. You will meet people and experience cultures that you'll treasure forever. A waitress we met in Quebec is now studying art in NYC and we've remained in touch. Aurora, who was only 4 at the time loved speaking to her in French (she'd learned a little) and they became instant friends. They've remained in touch, even webcamming occasionally.

One thing I try to think of with each place we visit is that often we see another area and think "How could anyone live here?" Well, I always try to focus on life there and how they enjoy it and how it can be home. While I find the cold horrifying I do see their nice towns and the friendliness and pick up on local customs and fun. I always leave knowing it's really a nice place to live. You treasure the oddest memories but they are what brings a location to life. For instance, some of you PNW'ers talk negative about Seattle, but I remember us having a snowball fight with these teenagers there and their mom inviting us in for cocoa. She was alarmed that her kids through snowballs at tourists. We had a blast.

You don't plan these things that happen when you cruise, they just happen and you absorb and experience and learn. Definitely cruise this area.

 

[Mike H]

I can't speak for north of the border, but one reference we always use for Maine is the Cruising Guide to the Maine Coast by Hank and Jan Taft, Curtis Rindlaub. Lots of specific information for the various cubby holes as well as busy harbors.

The one thing you must be mindful of are the lobster pot buoys. Some you can see in the distance, but why some paint their buoys dark gray is beyond me. Bring a swim mask and sharp knife. But ALWAYS have someone on board to help you get back on - the water is cold and can be a killer.

 

[mbdana]

Coast of Maine to PEI

Hi! I can only speak for the Coast of Maine, as mentioned earlier in this thread, there is nearly a lifetime of cruising possibilities on the Maine Coast. The Cruising Guide to the Maine Coast, as mentioned has a treasure trove of info including the vast amount of river side trips such as the Royal River, Harraseeket River, Maquoit Bay, Harpswell Sound, Quahog Bay, New Meadows River, Kennebec, Sheepscot, Linken Bay, Musgungus Sound, Damriscotta River, Johns Bay, St. George River, Penobscot River and on and on.

You will not run out of cruising opportunities on the Maine Coast and beyond and the Cruising Guide to the Maine Coast has every needed detail for every cove, river, bay. You won't be disappointed.

Mike Dana
Third Reef
36' Grand Banks Classic
Potts Harbor Maine