Cracked Racor bowl

[smitty477]

Ah, now I understand your problem with Racors. Apparently the following process wasn't intuitive to you. Drain the filter housing completely or at least below the filter element. Don't pull the filter element out until it has stopped draining (you can tell it's stopped draining by watching the liquid level in the bowl). Don't loosen the tee handle on top till you've opened the drain on the bowl. As no tools are required with the tee handle, not sure what you would be dropping inside the housing.

I guess this is where we differ, I don't want to be blind to the amount and type of crud in my fuel tank. When I get crud from a fuel purchase, I want to know within a day of cruising so that I can empty the bowl if water, and avoid buying fuel there again. If you wait till the vacuum gauge indicates higher vacuum, you're probably only guessing at the source of your bad fuel.

Ted

When we had a 'new to us' boat we wanted to get it home near us to complete a number of things lacking on the boat. One issue was fairly poor fuel in the tanks which we attempted to clean as best we could before we left. One Racor 500 had failed, so we needed to do that before we left - as a result we had one engine on the Racor and one on the spin-ons very similar to the pics above.
That trip had us replacing the Racor's 4 times and only had to replace one spin on as the vac gage was showing high.
It was far easier to prime and replace the spin on while underway, easier to prime, and they obviously lasted much longer with the compromised fuel.
Sold me after that cruise back home many years back.

 

[Steve DAntonio]

I won't deny it, I'm a Racor turbine series fan, it really doesn't doesn't get any easier or better.

My ode to Racor turbines https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/...bolt-a-cigarette-lighter-and-distracted-work/

 

[O C Diver]

When we had a 'new to us' boat we wanted to get it home near us to complete a number of things lacking on the boat. One issue was fairly poor fuel in the tanks which we attempted to clean as best we could before we left. One Racor 500 had failed, so we needed to do that before we left - as a result we had one engine on the Racor and one on the spin-ons very similar to the pics above.
That trip had us replacing the Racor's 4 times and only had to replace one spin on as the vac gage was showing high.
It was far easier to prime and replace the spin on while underway, easier to prime, and they obviously lasted much longer with the compromised fuel.
Sold me after that cruise back home many years back.

Not sure what your engine size is, but a Racor 500 would probably be appropriate for a smaller generator. I have one on my boat for an 8KW Onan. IMO, the Racor 1,000 or maybe the 900 would be the smallest I would go for the main engine. The 1000 probably has 10 times the surface area of the 500 and the 900 has 5 times the surface area of the 500. The main engine on my boat has dual 1,000 filters, so a flip of the lever switches from one filter to the other.

Ted

 

[smitty477]

Not sure what your engine size is, but a Racor 500 would probably be appropriate for a smaller generator. I have one on my boat for an 8KW Onan. IMO, the Racor 1,000 or maybe the 900 would be the smallest I would go for the main engine. The 1000 probably has 10 times the surface area of the 500 and the 900 has 5 times the surface area of the 500. The main engine on my boat has dual 1,000 filters, so a flip of the lever switches from one filter to the other.

Ted

Racor has size charts for the filters, here is one of them...
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/product/product-detail/6432

What is the Hp of your engine? Do you need dual 1,000 Racor filters for that size engine?

 

[O C Diver]

Racor has size charts for the filters, here is one of them...
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/product/product-detail/6432

What is the Hp of your engine? Do you need dual 1,000 Racor filters for that size engine?

No, the dual allows me to switch between elements. So if one is showing increased vacuum I can switch to the other. I have one John Deere 4045 130 Hp engine.

This is a 1,000 versus a 500 element.



Ted

 

[smitty477]

No, the dual allows me to switch between elements. So if one is showing increased vacuum I can switch to the other. I have one John Deere 4045 130 Hp engine.

This is a 1,000 versus a 500 element.

View attachment 133598

Ted

Your thoughts are that you need a 1,000 Racor filter for a 130hp engine?

Which spin on filters did you have and what were their issues?

 

[O C Diver]

Your thoughts are that you need a 1,000 Racor filter for a 130hp engine?

Which spin on filters did you have and what were their issues?

This isn’t for an over the road truck. This is for a boat. When your truck stops, you're a pedestrian. When it's blowing 25 and you're in 3 to 5' seas, I don't want to worry about my filter getting overwhelmed. After you install the filter housing, a Racor 1,000 filter element is <$12. It makes no sense to have 1/10th the filter element (and a much smaller water collection bowl) for $3 dollars less on a filter change. BTW, how much are those spin on filters?

My first diesel charter boat (bought in 1992) had a spin-on filter for the 6-71 Detroit. Fuel tank was dirty and the filter kept plugging up. The commercial fishermen said buy a Racor 1,000 and drain the crud out of the bowl as needed. What a novel concept, seeing water and crud collecting in a transparent bowl! Would never consider blind filtration again.

Ted

 

[smitty477]

This isn’t for an over the road truck. This is for a boat. When your truck stops, you're a pedestrian. When it's blowing 25 and you're in 3 to 5' seas, I don't want to worry about my filter getting overwhelmed. After you install the filter housing, a Racor 1,000 filter element is <$12. It makes no sense to have 1/10th the filter element (and a much smaller water collection bowl) for $3 dollars less on a filter change. BTW, how much are those spin on filters?

My first diesel charter boat (bought in 1992) had a spin-on filter for the 6-71 Detroit. Fuel tank was dirty and the filter kept plugging up. The commercial fishermen said buy a Racor 1,000 and drain the crud out of the bowl as needed. What a novel concept, seeing water and crud collecting in a transparent bowl! Would never consider blind filtration again.

Ted

If you are convinced you need a 1,000 Racor you have an option of getting 7X that filtering capacity with a spin on, see here....
https://www.sbmar.com/articles/marine-fuel-filtration-the-seaboard-way/

If you want to keep the Racor but extend the capacity and not deal with the mess see the same article...
https://www.sbmar.com/articles/marine-fuel-filtration-the-seaboard-way/

 

[O C Diver]

If you are convinced you need a 1,000 Racor you have an option of getting 7X that filtering capacity with a spin on, see here....
https://www.sbmar.com/articles/marine-fuel-filtration-the-seaboard-way/

If you want to keep the Racor but extend the capacity and not deal with the mess see the same article...
https://www.sbmar.com/articles/marine-fuel-filtration-the-seaboard-way/

I've been happy with a Racor 1,000 for 30 years, see no reason to change now. My 3 stage sequential filtering includes a 30 micron racor followed by a 10 micron and a 2 micron on the engine.





I should also mention that all fuel comes on board into the port tank. It's then polished and transferred to the starboard tank. Both engine and generator draw from the starboard tank. Paranoid? No, I can't afford to have fuel problems where I cruise.

Ted

 

[Fletcher500]

The Sbmar system is solid and proven. Those filters are on thousands of work boats in CA, and beyond.

Racors are also obviously proven and there are gazillions of them out there. I was at one of their manufacturing plants years ago for work and they are a professional, well run company.

No one can afford to have fuel problems; anywhere. Entering or exiting an open ocean channel with breaking waves and rocks on the leeward side, and it's potentially game over if the engine(s) goes down at the wrong time. A lot of single vs double engine debates occurs on this site and people get as pumped up about it as anchors. Entertaining to read if nothing else. Benefits for both, whatever one feels comfortable with. Fuel issues are probably the main cause of most engine mechanicals and they will often take both down. Being paranoid about fuel, filtering, and PM's is a requirement.

 

[catalinajack]

I've had this Racor 75/B32009 dual fuel filter setup on two boats.
Spin-on with bowls. Filters can be 2, 10, or 30 micron. Max flow 60 GPH.

https://www.fisheriessupply.com/rac...n-on-fuel-filter-with-clear-bowls/75-b32009-2

18 years and 6,500 hours on the previous one when I sold it.

20 years and 6,160 hours so far (6+ years and 4,700 hrs since I bought it) on the current one.

The plastic bowls have not cracked, leaked, or discolored.

Not particularly difficult to change.

Those filters do not meet the ABYC heat shield requiirement which, by the way, I believe is just a "feel good" regulation. And, they are spin-on filters, not cartridges.

 

[catalinajack]

I won't deny it, I'm a Racor turbine series fan, it really doesn't doesn't get any easier or better.



My ode to Racor turbines https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/...bolt-a-cigarette-lighter-and-distracted-work/

Steve, you are a widely-acknowledged industry-wide expert but, please, they are clearly not easier to change than a spin-on filter. Nor are they better or (worse) at filtering than a Donaldson or Fleetguard. Yes, there is a turbine effect for engines that flow higher volumes of fuel but, at the end of the day, filters filter and block water. Plus, the housings are very expensive and bulky.

 

[catalinajack]

Ah, now I understand your problem with Racors. Apparently the following process wasn't intuitive to you. Drain the filter housing completely or at least below the filter element. Don't pull the filter element out until it has stopped draining (you can tell it's stopped draining by watching the liquid level in the bowl). Don't loosen the tee handle on top till you've opened the drain on the bowl. As no tools are required with the tee handle, not sure what you would be dropping inside the housing.



I guess this is where we differ, I don't want to be blind to the amount and type of crud in my fuel tank. When I get crud from a fuel purchase, I want to know within a day of cruising so that I can empty the bowl if water, and avoid buying fuel there again. If you wait till the vacuum gauge indicates higher vacuum, you're probably only guessing at the source of your bad fuel.



Ted

Ted, the process you describe is easy? Not in my mind compared to simply spinning of a filter. Close the fuel supply, spin off, spin on. Done in 3 minutes. As far as knowing if you have received bad fuel, a simple drain from the bottom of the filter at the end of a run will tell the story just as well.

Look, guys, I have had both and far prefer spin-ons and respect your choices but, please don't tell me that, comparatively, the Racors are easy to change. Quite simply, they are not.

 

[catalinajack]

This thread has been an interesting bit of revelation. For as long as I have been maintaining marine diesels, all conversations about fuel filtration have begun and ended with "Racor." In my mind, the name has become nearly synonymous with diesel fuel filters, the way Xerox is shorthand for copy machines.

Life is about learning, and if I inherited an engine room equipped by the P.O. with something else, I'd sure give it a try. But, decades of experience have taught me that Racors get the job done, even if the bowls are usually so opaque that you can't tell much by looking.

Yes, they do get the job done. So do Fleetguard and Donaldson, and just as well.

 

[ranger58sb]

Look, guys, I have had both and far prefer spin-ons and respect your choices but, please don't tell me that, comparatively, the Racors are easy to change. Quite simply, they are not.

Interesting, your preference...

I've only had secondary spin-ons, without drains, but I found those to be almost impossible to change without spilling a little fuel.

Racors, for me, have always been easy enough to change without spilling any fuel. Drain a little first, open, etc.

-Chris

 

[smitty477]

I've been happy with a Racor 1,000 for 30 years, see no reason to change now. My 3 stage sequential filtering includes a 30 micron racor followed by a 10 micron and a 2 micron on the engine.

View attachment 133607

View attachment 133608

I should also mention that all fuel comes on board into the port tank. It's then polished and transferred to the starboard tank. Both engine and generator draw from the starboard tank. Paranoid? No, I can't afford to have fuel problems where I cruise.

Ted

Always have been a fan of staged filtration - not so much about having those gages on the tops of filters.

 

[smitty477]

Interesting, your preference...

I've only had secondary spin-ons, without drains, but I found those to be almost impossible to change without spilling a little fuel.

Racors, for me, have always been easy enough to change without spilling any fuel. Drain a little first, open, etc.

-Chris

Spin-ons do not have to be mounted really low to leave room to extract filters out of the top. Leave a little room at the bottom for a small pail to both 'catch' the old spin on and to carry the new replacement pre-filled.
It's really fast and I had my daughter complete it one time when I was unable to get to it.

 

[O C Diver]

Ted, the process you describe is easy? Not in my mind compared to simply spinning of a filter. Close the fuel supply, spin off, spin on. Done in 3 minutes. As far as knowing if you have received bad fuel, a simple drain from the bottom of the filter at the end of a run will tell the story just as well.

Look, guys, I have had both and far prefer spin-ons and respect your choices but, please don't tell me that, comparatively, the Racors are easy to change. Quite simply, they are not.

So you're telling me your filter is so loose it doesn't require a strap wrench to loosen it? You do your oil filters the same way?

You don't drain the filter before removing it? Now that's (full spin on filter full of diesel) an accident / mess waiting to happen!

It was clear from your previous posts that you never read the directions or refused to follow them regarding the Racor filter element change. Not surprising you made a mess.

Ted

 

[Comodave]

I think that Racors are pretty easy to change the elements l. I never spilled any diesel either. I do like the bowl to see what is in there. I mounted a small LED behind the bowl to see easier. No need for a flashlight. The LEDs would come on with the engine room lights so it was simple to see. Can’t do that with a spin on filter…

 

[diver dave]

Lets talk about sideways mounted spin on oil filters. THATS messy.

 

[O C Diver]

Always have been a fan of staged filtration - not so much about having those gages on the tops of filters.

Location, location location. If those gauges are in a bad location, you've picked a bad spot for your fuel filter separator. My prestart engine room check involves checking bowls and gauges on each filter. Easy to get to but not where you're going to bump into them.

Ted

 

[O C Diver]

Lets talk about sideways mounted spin on oil filters. THATS messy.

Punch a small hole in side that faces down. Catch the oil in a container. When it stops dripping, wipe it clean and put a piece of tape over the hole. Use a rag to catch the little bit that drips when unscrewing the filter.

Ted

 

[Comodave]

Lets talk about sideways mounted spin on oil filters. THATS messy.

My tractor has that but the filter is fairly small. But still what would it have cost to make a 90 degree mount?

 

[diver dave]

Punch a small hole in side that faces down. Catch the oil in a container. When it stops dripping, wipe it clean and put a piece of tape over the hole. Use a rag to catch the little bit that drips when unscrewing the filter.



Ted

I have had to do oil changes the last 8 or so changes at anchorage. The small hole is a good trick, but then cleaning any oil container is messy. Oil pads help a lot; draining hot oil from a spin on filter is messy too. I vacuum engine oil, so that part is drip less.

 

[Comodave]

I put a large funnel into a 5 gallon jerry can and take the used oil to a local boat repair shop. They burn it for heat during the winter.

 

[smitty477]

Location, location location. If those gauges are in a bad location, you've picked a bad spot for your fuel filter separator. My prestart engine room check involves checking bowls and gauges on each filter. Easy to get to but not where you're going to bump into them.

Ted

I don't attach the gages to the filters.
Because then they do have to come off with the lids and get 'handled'.
And the filters are also very tall which means much less room underneath to help catch fluids and/or do work.

 

[Comodave]

I put a set of Racor vacuum gauges with the T handle on them. No tools to change the element and they have a drag needle. I really liked them until we sold the boat.

 

[jimdavi]

Ok, this is feeling like many other arguments, anchor, single V twins…
One question- I have a new 6.7 qsb Cummins that primes electronically when I hit the ignition switch. Assume that will prime my racor 900’s?

Thanks.

 

[catalinajack]

So you're telling me your filter is so loose it doesn't require a strap wrench to loosen it? You do your oil filters the same way?



You don't drain the filter before removing it? Now that's (full spin on filter full of diesel) an accident / mess waiting to happen!



It was clear from your previous posts that you never read the directions or refused to follow them regarding the Racor filter element change. Not surprising you made a mess.



Ted

Of course they need a strap wrench. Did I say they didn't? Wow, Ted, those strap wrenches are really, really difficult, aren't they. And, no, there is no need to drain the filters beforehand. I simply place a No. 10 can underneath, spin the filter off, and drain the filter into a 5-gallon can. No fuss, no muss. This is not rocket science. And it's not an accident waiting to happen unless you are a dumbass. That's just plain ridiculous. Keep reaching.

 

[O C Diver]

Of course they need a strap wrench. Did I say they didn't? Wow, Ted, those strap wrenches are really, really difficult, aren't they. And, no, there is no need to drain the filters beforehand. I simply place a No. 10 can underneath, spin the filter off, and drain the filter into a 5-gallon can. No fuss, no muss. This is not rocket science. And it's not an accident waiting to happen unless you are a dumbass. That's just plain ridiculous. Keep reaching.

When you wrote:

Ted, the process you describe is easy? Not in my mind compared to simply spinning of a filter. Close the fuel supply, spin off, spin on. Done in 3 minutes.

I assumed no tools. But then you didn't mention draining it either. Probably not a 3 minute job, start to finish either.

Ted