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Old 02-20-2021, 07:56 PM   #61
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OD'43, You've got a lot packed into 34'! Hat's off to ya!!
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Old 02-20-2021, 08:13 PM   #62
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OD'43, You've got a lot packed into 34'! Hat's off to ya!!
FlyWright,
Thank you. I am almost finished with the planned 'improvements'. If I am very lucky, when I think I am 'finished', I hope it all works, before it start breaking. LOL

You have two solar panels fwd?
I was trying to 'splain to AKDave what you have accomplished with your solar panels.
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Old 02-20-2021, 08:13 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by Greg Salish Cruiser View Post
I am wavering between the Hurricane and a Webasto system recommended by Sure marine. Pluses and minuses for each to be sure. In the end, the fact that Sure Marine is SOOOOOO highly praised, and right around the corner may win the day.
In favor of ITR, the manufacturer offers great direct support. I had a discussion with them about spare parts, and basically was talked out of carrying any with the promise of fast courier delivery anywhere and qualified support over the phone. Anecdotal evidence from other owners backs this up. They're a small operation that's committed to their product.

I bought mine from a Webasto dealer. He loves ITR but most of his customers choose Webasto.
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Old 02-20-2021, 08:50 PM   #64
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Based upon my own experience with my generator, a faulty sensors shut down my generator and had to replace one sooooo, I have opted to carry the 2 sensors for the generator and the 3 sensors for the main engine. I have a spare alternator so I guess, the next is to buy a spare starter, in the future.
Of course I do carry the usual supply of filters, impellers and belts.
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Old 02-20-2021, 09:00 PM   #65
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Cooking, bathing and cabin heat.

Cooking by 1st mate and force 10 propane stove.
Bathing at town facilities .... varies.
Cabin heat by Wabasto forced air.
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Old 02-20-2021, 09:04 PM   #66
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FlyWright,
Thank you. I am almost finished with the planned 'improvements'. If I am very lucky, when I think I am 'finished', I hope it all works, before it start breaking. LOL

You have two solar panels fwd?
I was trying to 'splain to AKDave what you have accomplished with your solar panels.
I mounted 4x100W panels on my forward rails...2 per side, each pair tilt/rotate as one panel. I'll look for some pics I recently posted...

...EDIT: found it. Sorry for the side view. Consider it pandemic neck exercise...

The strut poles were temporary trials until I graduated to the PVC prototype. Still not at the final strut support yet which will be SS rail mount.
Attached Thumbnails
Solar1.jpg  
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Old 02-20-2021, 09:15 PM   #67
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FlyWright, I have mounted mine on top of the pilot house.
You could add flexible panels to the top over the fly bridge too.
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Old 02-20-2021, 09:25 PM   #68
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After watching the problems with flexible panels like Dave was having, I decided to wait it out for a little longer before taking the leap. Standoffs and cooling seem to be an issue with flex panels that I couldn't solve to my satisfaction. Also, feeding the cables from FB to ER was more challenging on FW.

Rigid panels seemed like a better fit for my boat, but I wouldn't like the look or security of that weight on the FB bimini. My new cockpit cover is rigid enough but too shaded in most anchorages.
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Old 02-20-2021, 09:42 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyWright View Post
I mounted 4x100W panels on my forward rails...2 per side, each pair tilt/rotate as one panel. I'll look for some pics I recently posted...

...EDIT: found it. Sorry for the side view. Consider it pandemic neck exercise...

The strut poles were temporary trials until I graduated to the PVC prototype. Still not at the final strut support yet which will be SS rail mount.
FlyWright, I think you have solved AKDave's problem.
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Old 02-20-2021, 10:32 PM   #70
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Does anyone else use an Espar diesel furnace, or are they out of favor? I had Webasto diesel heaters on my two prior (much smaller) boats. No problems! The current boat came with a large Espar furnace mounted in the lazarette. It needed some new pumps, etc when I bought the boat, but has been reliable ever since. It keeps the boat really warm. I don’t like to run it when I’m sleeping, maybe that’s not rational... I keep the boat supplied with down comforters and wool blankets though. There’s just that dash to turn the heat on in the morning! The coldest weather I’ve used it in had been 9 degrees.

I try and crack open a few windows to get rid of moisture from cooking, breathing, and bathing.
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Old 02-20-2021, 10:50 PM   #71
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Spinner,
We leave our Wabasto on while we’re up-town and all through the night.
Don’t leave it unattended for days tho.
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Old 02-21-2021, 12:47 AM   #72
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We turn our Espar Airtronic on when we arrive at the boat and off when we leave. It might be 2 nights, it might be 2 months. Keeps the boat dry.
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Old 02-21-2021, 07:43 AM   #73
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The usual Espar hassle is operating with a thermostat , that shuts off the unit then restarts it.

Plenty of voltage during starts and diesel mixed with kerosene is a great help.

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Imagine , your in Texas for the past week, then decide on heating systems..
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Old 02-21-2021, 09:09 AM   #74
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Quote:
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Imagine , your in Texas for the past week, then decide on heating systems..
Ah one of the many advantages of living on a boat. You can move it to warmer climes. Cant do that with a land based house.
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Old 02-21-2021, 09:38 AM   #75
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A question for you PNW guys. If you wanted to keep a drip bulkhead heater operating continuously on lowest setting, just to keep the boat warm while away from the boat for an extended period, would fueling it with 100% kerosene be sufficient to eliminate sooting?
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Old 02-21-2021, 01:05 PM   #76
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The strut poles were temporary trials until I graduated to the PVC prototype. Still not at the final strut support yet which will be SS rail mount.
I wondered about your strut poles. I could put rigid 125W panels on the backside of my port/stbd FB seats (no Bimini) and use struts. The panels could be hinged at the top and when flopped down would be completely out of sight with no windage. If the strut poles were hinged to the back of the panel and were adjustable like a telescoping boat hook, I could set them at different angles as needed. Haven't yet found any off-the-shelf solution. I was hoping that you had.

I'm not even sure that I will go with solar. My recently acquired boat has a non-working 4kw Yanmar genset. I think the high pressure fuel pump is out, since I couldn't get it to squirt anything even when manually cycling it. Yanar wants $470. Then I found a Taiwan manufacturer (who may produce for Yanmar), contacted them directly using Google translate, and decided to pay their asking price ($75 plus shipping). A cheap gamble.

I'm not a fan of generators and have always been one of the most vocal critics (we are common in the PNW). Maybe I'll become like dog owners ("I don't hear any barking) or parents ("I don't hear any screaming") or bikers ("My exhaust isn't loud"). Genset? I don't hear anything.
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Old 02-21-2021, 03:09 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by Marco Flamingo View Post
I wondered about your strut poles. I could put rigid 125W panels on the backside of my port/stbd FB seats (no Bimini) and use struts. The panels could be hinged at the top and when flopped down would be completely out of sight with no windage. If the strut poles were hinged to the back of the panel and were adjustable like a telescoping boat hook, I could set them at different angles as needed. Haven't yet found any off-the-shelf solution. I was hoping that you had.
If I had mounted the rail mount at the mid-point of the panel so that it extended equally inside and outside of the rail, it would probably not need a prop rod in the benign conditions of the CA Delta.

Here are a few other pics I found to help visualize my prototype PVC struts. The "T" portion attaches to 2 adjacent panels so they move as one panel. The smaller portion slides up and down on a vertical rail to adjust angle. There is another PVC pipe section (not shown) that connects the two, serving as the strut.
Attached Thumbnails
Solar4.jpg   Solar2.jpg   Solar3.jpg  
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Old 02-21-2021, 04:01 PM   #78
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A forced air system does use a little less power but the difference isn't dramatic (except perhaps for the Wallas). Forced air is simpler and cheaper to install for sure. You always run glycol in a hydronic system, so there is no winterization to do.

For me, the ability to use and distribute heat from the engine while running, combined with domestic hot water, tip the scales.

Humidity control does not favor one over the other, either will draw in outside air if you wish. Heating the air doesn't change the dew point, it only lowers the RH. Dehumidification lowers the dew point, the effects can be somewhat different.
Wet air warmed in the cabin is still just warmer wet air, cold air drawn in from outside and heated becomes dry (relative) warm air able to absorb large quantities of moisture from the cabin. The positive pressure of drawing outside air in pushes the warmed wetter air out. The dew temperature is the point at which the moisture falls out of the saturated air because it can't hold any more, colder air drawn in isn't saturated and once warmed can hold an amazing amount of moisture.

Humidity control does favor warming colder air drawn in from outside the cabin, and to draw in colder outside air to warm it with a hydronic system would require and additional system to pull air in from outside. Normally hydronic systems just rewarm the cabin air, not exchange it. A forced air system that drew air from inside the cabin would have the same shortcomings.
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Old 02-21-2021, 04:09 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FF View Post
The usual Espar hassle is operating with a thermostat , that shuts off the unit then restarts it.

Plenty of voltage during starts and diesel mixed with kerosene is a great help.

***********

OP,,,,"No conclusions yet,"

Imagine , your in Texas for the past week, then decide on heating systems..
FF I run strait kerosene from a dedicated tank on the aft bulkhead.
But re the cost of kero you’ve given me an idea .. 50/50 kero and diesel.
Prolly not worth the effort tho.
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Old 02-21-2021, 04:33 PM   #80
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My Webasto has it's thermal control in the intake side of the heater, so it monitors the air drawn in, not the room temperature. An external thermostat is required to set the room temperature unless you are drawing the air to be heated from the room you are warming, and if the air is saturated with moisture you just get warm wet air.

If you draw outside air in, you need to include an external sensor in your system. I think most of the forced air heaters are comparable, I just wound up with a Webasto. If there had been a service center here for Espar or Wallas I would probably have gone with one of them. I had to ship my heater to Sure in Seattle for service, a sensor had sooted up and the heater didn't reignite after shutting down with the thermostat sensor. The tech said diesel additives contributed to the soot/sensor issue.

I am unwilling to add another fuel tank to run kerosene, so it draws off behind the 1 micron fuel filter for the engine.
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