Changing Power Control to dual action

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Seevee

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Sep 1, 2016
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3,501
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usa
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430 Mainship
All,
Have any of you changed your old single action throttle and shift controls to a single level with dual action (both shift and throttle in one handle)?


Mine are working fine... but they are a PITA to operate. And they take up lot of space.



Would love to find one where I wouldn't have to change out cables.
 
If you have 2 stations, I don't think it'll be easy to change to a clutch/throttle combination unit without some kind of a linkage disconnect to isolate the helm controls.
 
If you have 2 stations, I don't think it'll be easy to change to a clutch/throttle combination unit without some kind of a linkage disconnect to isolate the helm controls.


Boomerang,
There's no special disconnect now, what am I missing? thx.
 
Boomerang,
There's no special disconnect now, what am I missing? thx.


With single function controls, pairing up 2 on the same cable run isn't an issue, they just move in sync. When 1 control is moving 2 cables, it's not as simple.



In general, I personally hate single lever controls. I much prefer split controls. Yes, they take up more space, but they're more precise to operate, especially without looking or paying attention to the controls. Shifting is just "push until it stops", no risk of over-shooting. And the longer throttle travel makes precise throttle control easier. Generally when docking, I dedicate one hand for shifting, the other for throttles.
 
With single function controls, pairing up 2 on the same cable run isn't an issue, they just move in sync. When 1 control is moving 2 cables, it's not as simple.



In general, I personally hate single lever controls. I much prefer split controls. Yes, they take up more space, but they're more precise to operate, especially without looking or paying attention to the controls. Shifting is just "push until it stops", no risk of over-shooting. And the longer throttle travel makes precise throttle control easier. Generally when docking, I dedicate one hand for shifting, the other for throttles.


I can appreciate what you say and there's certainly merit in your methods.
I prefer one hand on the control that controls BOTH and the other hand on the dock line, which is a necessity to accomplish the docking.


Currently, with the shift on the far left side of the panel, makes a starboard tie a challenge and actually have to release the control step out of the side door, tie the line, and go back in to adjust the power to pull the boat over.



I've had both over the years and MUCH prefer the single lever, dual control. And with it I've never accidentally shifted with the power up... impossible.
 
I can appreciate what you say and there's certainly merit in your methods.
I prefer one hand on the control that controls BOTH and the other hand on the dock line, which is a necessity to accomplish the docking.


Currently, with the shift on the far left side of the panel, makes a starboard tie a challenge and actually have to release the control step out of the side door, tie the line, and go back in to adjust the power to pull the boat over.



I've had both over the years and MUCH prefer the single lever, dual control. And with it I've never accidentally shifted with the power up... impossible.


Ah, single handing from a helm close enough to reach the dock may change things. I don't even give a thought to that on my own boat, as there's no reason a dock line would ever be within 8 feet of my helm. So if I need to touch a line, I've gotta step away from the helm anyway.
 
I have a single lever for my AT and would like 2 lever action. Alas, there is no conversion if you have electronic controlled throttle and shift. Plus, I will eventually get used to it. SHRUG.
 
I have a single lever for my AT and would like 2 lever action. Alas, there is no conversion if you have electronic controlled throttle and shift. Plus, I will eventually get used to it. SHRUG.


That's one of my biggest complaints with electronic throttle setups. But for some engines, you can get a converter box that will generate the electronic signals based on a moving cable as input. If you can find that for both engine and transmission, then those converters would allow you to use whatever controls you want.
 
I have a single lever for my AT and would like 2 lever action. Alas, there is no conversion if you have electronic controlled throttle and shift. Plus, I will eventually get used to it. SHRUG.


OldDan,


Whose electronic unit do you have? I had the Glendinning, single lever, dual action and it was absolutely great. Smooth, responsive, and excellent support.


However, mechanical is more reliable.... and doesn't require electricity to work.
 
OldDan,


Whose electronic unit do you have? I had the Glendinning, single lever, dual action and it was absolutely great. Smooth, responsive, and excellent support.


However, mechanical is more reliable.... and doesn't require electricity to work.

I too have an electronic throttle/shifter control. "CM" Works fine but miss the 2 lever control SHRUG
I suspect it will not be worth the money to change to 2 lever.
 
OldDan,


Whose electronic unit do you have? I had the Glendinning, single lever, dual action and it was absolutely great. Smooth, responsive, and excellent support.


However, mechanical is more reliable.... and doesn't require electricity to work.

Seevee, I'm sorry! I ,for some reason, assumed you had manual controls! Disregard my input!
 
The switch from dual lever control to single lever control (mechanical) is problematic.

Sea Star Solutions, the parent of Teleflex and Morse offer a junction box setup that was a Morse product many years ago.

http://www.seastarsolutions.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/mcda7-DS_Unit.pdf

The problem becomes the gear transition and the neutral warmup feature. One control must do what the other does, and for example if you have the upper station in neutral warm up and for throttle forward, what is the other station doing?

The junction box (that boomerang alluded to) would involve tossing your old cables, and replacing with 7 cables per engine.

2 would go from upper station to junction box
2 would go from lower station to junction box
2 would go from junction box to engine/gear
1 would go to a selector control to choose station, selector at 1 station only

The system was complex, and the additional friction of the junction box made the system unmanageable in some installations.

Not worth it, electronic controls basically made this system obsolete

:socool:
 
On my 85 Mainship 34 mk III it's no big deal to do this. I'm replacing the upper dual control with a single lever. The cables run from the upper control to the lower and from the lower to the engine/tranny. 4 cables. I've also seen where all 4 cables from the controls can run to the engine/tranny. 2 longer ones from the upper and 2 shorter ones from the lower.
As long as you get or have the correct connectors for the cable ends go for it. Usually they will just swap right over but if not the ends are available. Check the adjustment as you do it. I had to go from a stud to a fitting with a hole in it on 1 cable.
 
Currently, with the shift on the far left side of the panel, makes a starboard tie a challenge and actually have to release the control step out of the side door, tie the line, and go back in to adjust the power to pull the boat over.

I dock from the lower with one foot outside and one inside. However I have a single engine with dual controls, so both shifter and throttle are to the right of the wheel. I did have to move the bow thruster controller to the same side so I could reach it with one hand on a line wrapped on teh mid-ship cleat.

In your case, I'd just swap the location of the shifters and throttles and put the shifters on the right. It's not like you need the throttles when docking.

There's nothing saying they have to be on one side or the other. Reggie Fountain has been putting shifters Right and Throttles Left for decades. :angel:
 
On my 85 Mainship 34 mk III it's no big deal to do this. I'm replacing the upper dual control with a single lever. The cables run from the upper control to the lower and from the lower to the engine/tranny. 4 cables. I've also seen where all 4 cables from the controls can run to the engine/tranny. 2 longer ones from the upper and 2 shorter ones from the lower.
As long as you get or have the correct connectors for the cable ends go for it. Usually they will just swap right over but if not the ends are available. Check the adjustment as you do it. I had to go from a stud to a fitting with a hole in it on 1 cable.

Solly, The OP want's single lever controls in a 2-station boat, not just 2 stations. Keys succinctly explained in his post above, all of the issues associated with switching to single-lever controls from dual-lever in a 2 station application.
 
I dock from the lower with one foot outside and one inside. However I have a single engine with dual controls, so both shifter and throttle are to the right of the wheel. I did have to move the bow thruster controller to the same side so I could reach it with one hand on a line wrapped on teh mid-ship cleat.

In your case, I'd just swap the location of the shifters and throttles and put the shifters on the right. It's not like you need the throttles when docking.

I've always used throttles when docking a twin engine boat, especially in hi-current or windy conditions.
Using the throttle in a single-engine boat is a given!
 
Glad to have separate throttle and gear levers!
 

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dual or singel function

In my previous boat i had the gear and power combined so i had only two levers to operate, its simpel en good in use the boat was 15 ton and 2x 170HP engines.
On my new (old) boat i have the 4 levers i was first not so happy with it but after the second docking im glad this boat is 24ton and have 2x435hp engines

the major differince is my first boat a small overshoot and one engine revs is not a real problem with the new boat the engines have to mutch power and a overshoot will coarse a major steering problem.

i had installd the combine levels and its simpel on duplex station you need a switch over plates installed

Best regards,
Patrick
 
On a previous boat, a Fales 30 trawler named "Boomarang" I converted from 2-station Morse twin controls to Kobelt 2091/2093 single lever controls. They consist of a 'master' control lever that should connect right to your existing 3300 or 4300 series engine/transmission control cables, and a 'slave' control lever connected to the 'master' by special low-friction cables that synchronize the levers with chains and sprockets.

4208002A.jpg


Note: Only the 'master' control is capable of disengaging the shifter from the throttle for revving the engine in neutral. These controls are smooth and reliable.

I found the Teleflex 2-Station Single-Lever controls to be overly complicated and even more expensive than Kobelt, which are NOT inexpensive.

While you are at it, I would definitely recommend replacing the existing control cables if there is ANY friction or slop. I used Glendinning Pro-X, but Teleflex and others do offer high-quality, low-friction cables at reasonable prices.
 

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