Bow Roller Choices

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ksanders

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Joined
Feb 24, 2011
Messages
6,284
Location
USA
Vessel Name
DOS PECES
Vessel Make
BAYLINER 4788
I need a bow roller for my boat.

I run a plow type anchor that weighs about 75 pounds with a all chain rode.

What have you guys used?
 
Do you have a pulpit? If so, do you want to go through it or over the end?
 
I looked at a 4788 that they removed the pulpit and reworked the bow rail to match. It looked very nice. Maybe time for a bow remodel???
 
Kevin,
There is some website I found 5 years ago that helps select a bow roller based on anchor type. I’ll look to see if I saved any info on it.

John
 
I'm not familiar with the 4788 so not clear whether there is no roller at all, or if you have one and are looking to replace because it's worn out?
 
I'm not familiar with the 4788 so not clear whether there is no roller at all, or if you have one and are looking to replace because it's worn out?

The 4788 has a huge bow pulpit extending 4' from the front of the bow. It has a very robust roller system OEM.

The challenge on almost all 4788's and 490 meridians is that over time the jellcoat cracks, water gets in either through those cracks or the several penetrations and the three layers of 3/4" plywood that make up the structure swell causing more cracking.

I had a Very nice person give me a replacement pulpit from a later model boat but upon close examination it too is cracking, just like the original.

Because of this I am going to remove the pulpit and put on a bow roller and a base for the windlass on the deck.

That leave me trying to source a bow roller for a large heavy anchor but that is not as easy as it seems. I did find one made by Mantus anchor that looks to be great quality but I would really like a couple of choices.

For a base I'll probably use G10. Some have used starboard but I am hesitant because starboard does not glue up well and the anchor forces are pretty incredible to put on the shear qualities of the decking alone spread out on fur 3/8" bolts.
 
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You may want to consider a hinged bow-roller to make it easier fro the anchor to "make it over the hump" on the way in.

https://www.osculati.com/en/11005-m-026129/classic-heavy-duty-hinged-bow-roller

Agreed! the challenge is finding them.

Even the one in your photo and link only go to 30KG :blush:

I need something larger for my boat.

Right now I am carrying a 33 kg SARCA anchor which I have found to be pretty darn good in some fairly serious winds.

but... if anything I might need to go larger, in the 85 pound range and possibly larger than that.
 
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When the plywood core in my pulpit failed, I took it off, set it upside down on sawhorses and cut it open. I cut out the bottom of it with a grinder, ripped out the plywood and put in new foam core with epoxy and glassed it all back together. 2 years later it's still solid, stiff, etc.
 
I have a Windline BRM-3 bow roller. The specs say it fits up to 30kg anchors but I'm using a 33kg Rocna on it with no problems.
 

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Hi Kevin,

I'm also looking at removing the bow pulpit as well this winter and have started the research looking for a roller as well. Most of the rollers I've looked at so far were not rated for 33KG but they must be out there. In addition to the roller I've also been looking at different techniques for the replacement of the pulpit. I started out thinking of a custom fiberglass piece to replace the pulpit but have also seen a couple of boats that used starboard as a replacement:

18967-albums1148-picture7072.jpg


and I've also seen a couple of boats that used a stainless plate:

18967-albums1148-picture7071.jpg


Some of the boats have had to move the windless back in order to accommodate the anchor shank. If you plan on using the Muir windless there is also consideration for the vertical alignment with the roller. I'll be most interested in what you find.
 
Hi Kevin,

I'm also looking at removing the bow pulpit as well this winter and have started the research looking for a roller as well. Most of the rollers I've looked at so far were not rated for 33KG but they must be out there. In addition to the roller I've also been looking at different techniques for the replacement of the pulpit. I started out thinking of a custom fiberglass piece to replace the pulpit but have also seen a couple of boats that used starboard as a replacement:

18967-albums1148-picture7072.jpg


and I've also seen a couple of boats that used a stainless plate:

18967-albums1148-picture7071.jpg


Some of the boats have had to move the windless back in order to accommodate the anchor shank. If you plan on using the Muir windless there is also consideration for the vertical alignment with the roller. I'll be most interested in what you find.

So far the two rollers I've seen are the Mantus out of Texas and the Anchor-rite from Australia. Defender sells a Kingston one that might work as well.

As far as a pad to replace the pulpit I am thinking of a G10 fiberglass base 1/2" thick. Starboard would be easier as you have to finish G10 but starboard has a disadvantage in that nothing sticks to it. I am afraid that over time water would work it's way between the starboard and the deck.

G10 on the other hand can be I think glued using resin to the deck or worst case 5200 would hold and seal it forever. Stainless would be nice if one had a local stainless outfit and could make up a cardboard template but I'm in Alaska.


I'm going to take some measurements tonight and sketch it out to see about the distances. I have a Lofrans Tigress windlass and am planning on moving it back because the chain OEM piles up on the sloped bow section. Moving the windlass back will help solve that issue.

I would also like to think about up sizing my anchor or at least having the room to do so. My 33 kg SARCA works well but I might want to go to a 100 lb anchor to provide severe storm holding ability. I plan on exploring the Baja in 2022 and the larger anchor might come in handy.
 
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Something that has concerned me with the horizontal windless is that as the anchor shank comes up over the bow roller it initially reduces the the amount of "bite" that the gypsy has on the chain which increases the risk of a runaway condition. In my mind there needs to be a bit of engineering in order to optimize the arrangement.

I liked the look of the stainless but I am concerned about the long term appearance due to dirt and scratches.

I also liked the idea of moving the windless back so that the chain would drop closer to the middle of the locker but I think that with a horizontal windless you would need to build up a platform in order to maintain a proper angle on the chain. A vertical windless would resolve that issue.
 
Something that has concerned me with the horizontal windless is that as the anchor shank comes up over the bow roller it initially reduces the the amount of "bite" that the gypsy has on the chain which increases the risk of a runaway condition. In my mind there needs to be a bit of engineering in order to optimize the arrangement.

I liked the look of the stainless but I am concerned about the long term appearance due to dirt and scratches.

I also liked the idea of moving the windless back so that the chain would drop closer to the middle of the locker but I think that with a horizontal windless you would need to build up a platform in order to maintain a proper angle on the chain. A vertical windless would resolve that issue.

Here is a bow roller that has an additional roller to control anchor tilt.

I have this pretty well figured out now. The Mantus BR2 roller coupled with the Mantus M2-85 pound anchor. The M2 anchor is designed to fit within the footprint of the BR2 bow roller, so if you can fit the bow roller you can also fit the anchor.
 

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This is a post from earlier.


HI, My Kadey Krogen's anchor roller was badly worn. I could not find a suitable replacement anywhere. So I designed my own. I made it bigger and to fit the exact chain that I am using. Hopefully this will help guide the chain onto the gypsy accurately and reduce wear. Time will tell. Although I made this one by hand, I have a CNC shop and could produce them easily. I made this one from UHMW plastic which is very tough, but difficult to machine as it is stringy. Most of the ones for sale are made from Delrin (Acetal) which is easy to machine.
I was wondering if there was a market for a custom made anchor roller? If so, it would allow the boat owner to take some measurements and design one that works good on their boat.

Chris Bergstedt
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For bigger boats you really are better off getting a custom build to suit your boat and your anchor imho
 
On our Nordic Tug 42, when we upgraded to a Rocna 33 (73#) we needed to extend our pulpit/roller as we needed more distance from the windlass. We went with an Anchorlift plus a yard built support knee. Works perfectly and is self launching.
My apologies for the photos being akilter but I can’t seem to sort them out.
 

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I rotated the pics for you.

It's a bit of a PITA to do. Method - save pics. to hard drive. Use an editor (eg Preview on a Mac) to rotate, then save pics. Upload the latest saved versions. One problem is file size/resolution is reduced.
 
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I rotated the pics for you.

It's a bit of a PITA to do. Method - save pics. to hard drive. Use an editor (eg Preview on a Mac) to rotate, then save pics. Upload the latest saved versions. One problem is file size/resolution is reduced.

Thanks Brian; much appreciated as I tend to get lost when I try to post images here on TF.
 
On our Nordic Tug 42, when we upgraded to a Rocna 33 (73#) we needed to extend our pulpit/roller as we needed more distance from the windlass. We went with an Anchorlift plus a yard built support knee. Works perfectly and is self launching.
My apologies for the photos being akilter but I can’t seem to sort them out.

Nice setup! Thanks!
 
Well...

I decided to go with the Mantus BR2 and the Mantus M2-85 anchor.

I really did not want to buy a new anchor but my SARCA would not fit in the space I have.

Underneath the windlass in leu of the pulpit i am using 1/2" G10 board with white jellcoat sprayed on.

As a windlass backer underneath the deck I'm also using g10

This will create a structure of about 1 1/2" of deck thickness that is sandwiched between two 1/2" G10 boards that will be fiberglass resin attached making for a very strong windlass attachment.
 
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