Binoculars

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Big lenses + image stabilization = lots of cash.

So which is more important to a coastal cruiser, low light performance or a stable image?

I am not sure that they are mutually exclusive, but to answer the question, it depends.

If you cruise a lot at night or dusk, then low light performance would be needed. However, I will never buy binoculars for the boat without stabilization.
 
My glasses are Varilux with the correction changing top to bottom in the lens. I have Steiners and a good WM. It is bear to use anything without taking the glasses off as even a slightly different positioning of my eye distorts everything. Any suggestions or should I just keep laying my glasses down so I can sit on them?
 
Do your binocs have adjustable eye-relief? The eyepieces on mine flip or screw out for use without glasses, back in for with glasses, so that the eye position is about the same distance from the aft lens of the binocs, with or without. Makes a BIG difference, and worked fine for me even with variable close-focus in the lower portions of my lenses.

Just yesterday had my second lens replacement to correct for cataracts, and no longer have to wear glasses except for close-up work and reading - Yay!
 
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They are adjustable and if I do not move, hold my mouth right, stand on one foot and stare straight ahead I can make them work. Generally I pull the glasses and let the binocs do the correction like most people. My eyes are not really bad I just obsess about my vision.
 
My glasses are Varilux with the correction changing top to bottom in the lens. I have Steiners and a good WM. It is bear to use anything without taking the glasses off as even a slightly different positioning of my eye distorts everything. Any suggestions or should I just keep laying my glasses down so I can sit on them?

Do your binocs have adjustable eye-relief? The eyepieces on mine flip or screw out for use without glasses, back in for with glasses, so that the eye position is about the same distance from the aft lens of the binocs, with or without. Makes a BIG difference, and worked fine for me even with variable close-focus in the lower portions of my lenses.

RC has the right answer. Most binocs will have some sort of adjustable eye shield. Many are simply the rubber than can be folded back over the eyepiece to reduce the stand off. Unfortunately, most of the time this still won't place the optics at the ideal distance when wearing glasses. I use progressive lenses almost full time even though I have almost no distance refractive error. It is just handy to see stuff at near when I want without trying to find my glasses. However, I will take off my glasses to use the binocs about half the time simply because it gives a larger field of view.
 
They are adjustable and if I do not move, hold my mouth right, stand on one foot and stare straight ahead I can make them work. Generally I pull the glasses and let the binocs do the correction like most people. My eyes are not really bad I just obsess about my vision.

A lot will depend on what distance correction you have. Small differences between the eyes (ie one eye being more or less farsighted or nearsighted than the other) can be corrected with the adjustable ocular of the binoculars. Total nearsighted or farsightedness can be corrected with the central focusing knob on the binoculars. However, astigmatism cannot be corrected with binoculars. If you have over .75 diopters of astigmatism (the second number in a spectacle correction) you should really use binoculars with your glasses in place. The binoculars won't make blur due astigmatism go away, they will simply make things big and blurry instead of small and blurry.
 
My glasses are Varilux with the correction changing top to bottom in the lens. I have Steiners and a good WM. It is bear to use anything without taking the glasses off as even a slightly different positioning of my eye distorts everything. Any suggestions or should I just keep laying my glasses down so I can sit on them?

Put your glasses on a string around your neck so you don't have to lay them down and then no one can sit on them. :D
 
I keep ignoring the fact that, in the scope of boat things, a $1500 pair of stabilized binocs is tiny cost. Still adjusting!
 
Why is that every time my Steiners are picked up, multiple twists occur on the whatchmucallit hanging around one's neck?

My first son, not me:

 
Just had one more thought that might possibly be useful:

Some guest crew on our boat did not realize they had to adjust the angle of the hinge between the binoc lens tubes to fit the distance between their eyes. If there's black covering part of your view, the problem may be that not being correct, or eye relief not being correct.
 
RC, what should the image look like when the distance between tubes is correct?

I've always liked to bring them together until I see a single round image.

Other people tell me it should look like two partially merged circles, like you see in the movies.
 
My glasses are Varilux with the correction changing top to bottom in the lens. I have Steiners and a good WM. It is bear to use anything without taking the glasses off as even a slightly different positioning of my eye distorts everything. Any suggestions or should I just keep laying my glasses down so I can sit on them?

Like many others, I too have taken my glasses off to use binoculars only to sit on them and twist or break them. I tried those strings on my glasses so I could just let my glasses hang, now I just flip my glasses up above the eyebrows against my forehead. They stay there snugly and make for an easy motion up and back down when I want to use my binos. And no, you don't need Neanderthal eyebrow ridges for this to work.
 
RC, what should the image look like when the distance between tubes is correct?

I've always liked to bring them together until I see a single round image.

Other people tell me it should look like two partially merged circles, like you see in the movies.
Single round image seems best to me.
 
At the bottom end of the scale, we have 2 Bushnell permafocus binocs; no focussing required and work for our needs, which are more looking at marine life etc. Under $100 in Canada. I think they're 7x50 but not on the boat so not sure. 7x 35 or 50. Great for multiple users while trying to watch the elusive whales as they pop up.
 
I also find the compass to be about useless. However my stabilized Nikon 10x30 ($399) are fantastic. Now when i do a delivery I take them with me. Just did a 3 week 1200 mile delivery of a 56 Seaton down the ICW and those were the only binocs anyone used.
 
My Fujinon Polaris 7x50's are 25 years old, have bounced around a lot, and are still marvelous. The best Steiner Commanders may be comparable, but the Fuji's are hard to beat for light-gathering ability and image clarity in a waterproof and very durable 7x50 marine binoc. Seems to me that unless you want image stabilization, which comes with considerably less light-gathering ability, they're about as good as it gets.

Love my 14year old Fujinon Fmtrc-sx Polaris which have been used and abused heavily, one of the best pieces of gear ever. I use the compass often for bearings; it is not real sensitive to jumping around. Excellent low light capability which is a big plus for me. We strongly considered, but never were never adequately compelled to buy, stabilized units as I could not find one that matched the optics for even double the price. Down side: pricey and heavy. But given how much we use binocs, worth it.
 
RC, what should the image look like when the distance between tubes is correct?

I've always liked to bring them together until I see a single round image.

Other people tell me it should look like two partially merged circles, like you see in the movies.

It "bugs" me when films don't show a single round image from someone using binoculars!! Hollywood is too often ignorant! Gee, haven't they ever looked through binoculars!
 
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Water proof is a nice feature -- except if it comes with trade-offs -- anyway once you drop them in the ocean, who is swimming down to get them??
 
RC, what should the image look like when the distance between tubes is correct?

I've always liked to bring them together until I see a single round image.

Other people tell me it should look like two partially merged circles, like you see in the movies.

You are correct and the others are wrong. Set correctly you will see a single round image.

The reason they do that in film is to ensure that the viewer gets that the character is viewing through binoculars. Show something to folks enough and they start to believe it. :banghead:
 
The single round image is sometimes a problem for me. I've always thought my eyes were a little close together as I can't get a single image with some binoculars.

I have asked a few eye doctors if my eyes were particularly close together. They always wonder why I ask and tell me no. I asked the most recent guy to examine my eyes and he said, "Yes, I bet you have a hard time buying binoculars"
He was a boater.
 
It "bugs" me when films don't show a single round image from someone using binoculars!! Hollywood is too often ignorant! Gee, haven't they ever looked through binoculars!

They save the single round image for telescopes and the pirates spy glass. :D
 
I'm surprised that digital binoculars haven't become the wave of the future. With the low light capabilities of many digital cameras, variable zoom, auto focus, and led monitor technology, it would seem that many features could be enhanced through digital camera technology.

Ted
 
At different times this past summer I had a lot of binoculars on the boat.
The ones I looked for and used most were Zeiss 10x40. My favorites.

Fujinon 14x stabilized--nice when extra range needed but big, bulky.
Canon stabilized--also nice and much smaller than the Fujinon

Vanguard 10x42--OK, less expensive than the Zeiss and a noticeable difference.

and a couple other cheaper but OK (Leupold was one) just to have some available.

No compasses on any of them and as mentioned--the Zeiss were the ones I kept close by.
 
I keep 2 pair of binoculars aboard, both stabilized Canon. 1st pair I got was 10x30, I found them to be very useful on the rivers for seeing the mm numbers on day marks. I got the 2nd pair 15x50 after spending several days on Lake Michigan/Lake Huron, targets would show on the AIS but couldn't see anything, maybe some smoke on the horizon. Both pair are also great for watching wildlife or checking locks for traffic. I used a pair of 7x30 for years but was not able to always read the day mark mile markers.
 
Santa bought us the Steiner Commander 7 x 50. It has:

High definition - German glass
Sports auto focus
XL field of view 145m / 1000m
Comfort balance system
Nano-projection
Waterproof up to 10m

It's kinda expensive but we love them!

~Lucky Chucky
 
We have several Jason 'Fixed Focus' 10x50. model 1198. One set at home for water/marine viewing and two sets on the boat No adjustment required when quick look is needed. Find the vision very clear.

For got to add we have as the main home viewing binoculars, a Chinese Giant Binoculars-25/40/100 on tripod. Really great for long range viewing.

Al-Ketchikan
 
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Thanks to all for the Varilux suggestions. Happy New Year to all.
 
Santa bought us the Steiner Commander 7 x 50. It has:

High definition - German glass
Sports auto focus
XL field of view 145m / 1000m
Comfort balance system
Nano-projection
Waterproof up to 10m

It's kinda expensive but we love them!

~Lucky Chucky

What the hell is "nano-projection"?

Or is it just another attempt at clever marketing? :D
 
What the hell is "nano-projection"?

Or is it just another attempt at clever marketing? :D

Possibly it was "nano-protection" -- and if so, I think I remember Steiner describing it as an additional lens coating to keep them clean, clear, safe, unscratched, something like that... Probably says on the Steiner website.

-Chris
 
If I am going to spend any money on binocs, it will be to get stabilization. For some reason my hands are not good at keeping binocs steady when it is rough. Image all over the place.
 
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