Auto pilot

[yamabuki]

We have a simrad auto pilot system that was working fine until the AP300 control unit packed up, we have seen a couple of units for sale but not sure how good and how long they will last and pricey, as everything else was working fine and the reversible pump was changed in 2007 and has done nothing much since.
Is there any way I can use the existing hardware with some different control head , simrad of course do not support this old stuff.

 

[Larry M]

If the pump is sized correctly, you should be able to re-use that. When we installed the Simrad AP24 in 2009, we kept the installed pump after checking the brushes. We still haven’t had to mess with it after 15,000 miles.

The pump was unbranded. The old system was a Robertson. We sold the remote, computer and one control head on EBay for over $1,000. It made the upgrade pretty painless.

 

[GregBrannon]

Which junction box or AP computer do you have with that system?

 

[yamabuki]

Thanks you did ok, the replaced pump was a simrad RPU80/160/300 so I'm assuming it was the right one. I did wonder if any other conctrol head would work, like an AP 22 for instance.

 

[yamabuki]

Which junction box or AP computer do you have with that system?

Don't know so will have to crawl around and get some numbers.

 

[menzies]

Are you talking about the control head not working or the computer?

If the computer, what is the computer model number?

 

[boomerang]

Thanks you did ok, the replaced pump was a simrad RPU80/160/300 so I'm assuming it was the right one. I did wonder if any other conctrol head would work, like an AP 22 for instance.

The RPU 80, 160 & 300 are three different pumps. Almost any autopilot will drive the 80 as it is a low amp draw motor. The 160 is the most common pump generally found on boats 30-45' long. The 300 is a much larger pump and requires a larger junction box to drive it. You probably have the RPU160.

 

[yamabuki]

Are you talking about the control head not working or the computer?

If the computer, what is the computer model number?

No it’s the control head, everything else was working till that packed up and it was getting power to it.

 

[yamabuki]

The RPU 80, 160 & 300 are three different pumps. Almost any autopilot will drive the 80 as it is a low amp draw motor. The 160 is the most common pump generally found on boats 30-45' long. The 300 is a much larger pump and requires a larger junction box to drive it. You probably have the RPU160.

Thanks I was reading from the literature that came with the pump and covered all three.

 

[yamabuki]

If the pump is sized correctly, you should be able to re-use that. When we installed the Simrad AP24 in 2009, we kept the installed pump after checking the brushes. We still haven’t had to mess with it after 15,000 miles.

The pump was unbranded. The old system was a Robertson. We sold the remote, computer and one control head on EBay for over $1,000. It made the upgrade pretty painless.

This system is a Robertson, taken over by simrad I expect. As it worked fine before calamity I assume the motor is the right size.

 

[River Cruiser]

There is a marine electronic seller on eBay, I’ve bought several items from him and have always been pleased with the condition. Max Marine is the seller, I would search his site for a replacement.

 

[LarryM]

We have a simrad auto pilot system that was working fine until the AP300 control unit packed up, we have seen a couple of units for sale but not sure how good and how long they will last and pricey, as everything else was working fine and the reversible pump was changed in 2007 and has done nothing much since.
Is there any way I can use the existing hardware with some different control head , simrad of course do not support this old stuff.

A few years ago, with Simrad support's help, I upgraded a failed AP300X like yours with a later AP22 control head.

You should be able to use the AP11, AP20, AP21, or AP22 control heads, depending on the EPROM programming. They all use J300X (J300X-40) or J3000X junction units.

According to Simrad, in order to recognize the later AP20-22 series, the EPROM chip in the J300X has to be V1R8 minimum. It's P/N is 22081640. I last paid about $200 for V1R9 from Simrad in 2011, but they have since been discontinued.

There is an AP300X Control Unit on eBay right now https://www.ebay.com/itm/Robertson-Simrad-AP300X-autopilot-control-head-TESTED-WORKING/223269684257?epid=1225110255&hash=item33fbe90421:g:RLQAAOSwVYhb~9Zl:rk:31f:0 that looks pretty clean. It is about the same price as some of the later control heads but without the worry about EPROM compatibility or upgrading. Might be the easiest fix.

 

[catalinajack]

I replaced that same unit using a Simrad NAC-3 autopilot computer. The NAC-3 will drive a Robertson RPU 80/160. Mine is an RPU-80. It was literally plug-and-play. All other existing components, including the rudder position sensor were kept. I can't explain why, but underway in a following sea the NAC-3 controls the boat with far less squirreling if that is a word. Just yesterday in crossing the Gulf of Mexico from Carrabelle to Tarpon Springs we hit (unforecast) heavy wind and waves with the waves quartering on the bow. The new unit kept us on track quite nicely but I could hear the pump constantly working. I couldn't be happier with this computer. I also purchased Simrad's WR-10 wireless remote. Plug it into your NMEA backbone. Mine worked flawlessy out of the box. I can make course changes from both helms with a keyfob controller. Highly recommended.

 

[Group9]

I replaced that same unit using a Simrad NAC-3 autopilot computer. The NAC-3 will drive a Robertson RPU 80/160. Mine is an RPU-80. It was literally plug-and-play. All other existing components, including the rudder position sensor were kept. I can't explain why, but underway in a following sea the NAC-3 controls the boat with far less squirreling if that is a word. Just yesterday in crossing the Gulf of Mexico from Carrabelle to Tarpon Springs we hit (unforecast) heavy wind and waves with the waves quartering on the bow. The new unit kept us on track quite nicely but I could hear the pump constantly working. I couldn't be happier with this computer. I also purchased Simrad's WR-10 wireless remote. Plug it into your NMEA backbone. Mine worked flawlessy out of the box. I can make course changes from both helms with a keyfob controller. Highly recommended.

That’s good to know. We’ve got an old Robertson AP with an RPU 100 and have been thinking about the same upgrade to the NAC-3 but I was really hoping we could get away without changing the pump. I think Simrad recomends the RPU 160 for our size boat, but the RPU 100 has never seemed to have any problems. The installer I spoke with thought the RPU 100 would work, but I’m not convinced, yet, as to whether it is compatible. I guess I need to call Simrad and ask.

 

[catalinajack]

That’s good to know. We’ve got an old Robertson AP with an RPU 100 and have been thinking about the same upgrade to the NAC-3 but I was really hoping we could get away without changing the pump. I think Simrad recomends the RPU 160 for our size boat, but the RPU 100 has never seemed to have any problems. The installer I spoke with thought the RPU 100 would work, but I’m not convinced, yet, as to whether it is compatible. I guess I need to call Simrad and ask.

As I mentioned, our boat has the RPU-80 pump. The boat is a DeFever 44 and weighs 57,000 lbs. Never a problem driving the system even when it is being worked hard. If your existing pump works for you now it will work with the NAC-3.

 

[Group9]

As I mentioned, our boat has the RPU-80 pump. The boat is a DeFever 44 and weighs 57,000 lbs. Never a problem driving the system even when it is being worked hard. If your existing pump works for you now it will work with the NAC-3.

Thanks, again. Our boat only weighs 40,000 lbs. So, yeah, I’m guessing that an RPU 100 should work fine. I’m sure going to find out before I buy another pump!

 

[yamabuki]

Autopllot

A few years ago, with Simrad support's help, I upgraded a failed AP300X like yours with a later AP22 control head.

You should be able to use the AP11, AP20, AP21, or AP22 control heads, depending on the EPROM programming. They all use J300X (J300X-40) or J3000X junction units.

According to Simrad, in order to recognize the later AP20-22 series, the EPROM chip in the J300X has to be V1R8 minimum. It's P/N is 22081640. I last paid about $200 for V1R9 from Simrad in 2011, but they have since been discontinued.

There is an AP300X Control Unit on eBay right now https://www.ebay.com/itm/Robertson-Simrad-AP300X-autopilot-control-head-TESTED-WORKING/223269684257?epid=1225110255&hash=item33fbe90421:g:RLQAAOSwVYhb~9Zl:rk:31f:0 that looks pretty clean. It is about the same price as some of the later control heads but without the worry about EPROM compatibility or upgrading. Might be the easiest fix.

Yes looks good but ap300 are like hens teeth so will look to see what computer etc we have and see what other options I have, if able to use a more available control head would rather.

 

[yamabuki]

Which junction box or AP computer do you have with that system?

The junction is a J300x pn 22081830 with an IP44 protection (whatever that is) and the pump is RPU80.

 

[boomerang]

Wow that surprises me that the PO allowed the boat to be rigged with such a small pump.
I don't know if you're familiar with the Hull Truth forum but there's an AP22 system with a j3000X junction box ,RFC35 compass & RPU80 pump for sale for $1000. Just an FYI.

 

[yamabuki]

Wow that surprises me that the PO allowed the boat to be rigged with such a small pump.
I don't know if you're familiar with the Hull Truth forum but there's an AP22 system with a j3000X junction box ,RFC35 compass & RPU80 pump for sale for $1000. Just an FYI.

Thanks will look but we have that compass etc so really need the control head I hope. Re RPU 80 see thread #16.

 

[GregBrannon]

IP, or 'internal protection,' is described here. Interesting.

Now that you know the junction box or AP computer model, you can determine which control heads are compatible. I didn't know that the AP300 control was compatible with the J300X, but the documentation for the AP300 clearly shows the J3000X, J300X, and J300X-40 are the expected junction units. It's not as easy to find documentation for the junction boxes that lists all compatible controllers. I haven't found it. Check the manuals for Simrad/Robertson family of autopilots around yours to determine which used the same junction unit.

As previously stated, the AP20/21-series controllers also use the same family of junction units, so that widens your search for controllers, though the functionality may vary. I'm happy with my AP21 system, but it might not offer a feature you currently have. Legacy controllers are available on the used market but their availability varies and the price usually seems high.

How do you know the controller went bad? I have the AP21 controllers with a J3000X. I updated the NMEA system, rewiring inputs and outputs to the junction box. After rewiring I got the system to power up a couple times, but then it all went dead with no indication on the controllers. Once the controllers go dead, it's pretty much impossible to determine a clear cause of the failure. Because I'd worked at the junction box last and I had two controllers that were both dead, I assumed the junction box was the point of failure. That might have been a bad assumption.

You don't really know what has failed in your system - at least it's not clear with the info you've given us. You could purchase a new/used controller, the most expensive component, and find that the failure is really with the junction box. Try to arrange a test to determine positively which component has failed.

You might be able to borrow a compatible controller to check your junction box or ship your junction box or controller to a used reseller to test their functionality. The Boater's Resale Shop of Texas comes to mind, but there are similar resellers on eBay that appear to have basic Simrad test capability. Contact them for advice.

I had great luck with my used junction box from eBay. All the seller promised was that it powered up as shown by displaying the setup screen on a controller. I wired it in and it has worked great for a season. I don't know how long it will last, but the few hundred I paid for it is a good deal when compared to the price of a new AP.

Good luck!

 

[muthrtuckr]

Simrad Autopilot

Try this guy. He works on all of them.

https://www.robertsonrepairs.com/

 

[Larry M]

Try this guy. He works on all of them.

https://www.robertsonrepairs.com/

Thanks for posting that. It looks like a good resource.

 

[Art Lover]

Simrad autopilot

I recently listed my Simrad on eBay. It came from a custom aluminum trawler and everything was in perfect working order from inside a protected pilothouse. I was upgrading to all new digital electronics with NMEA 2000 backbone and decided to upgrade everything, even though I was told that these Simrad autopilots are pretty solid. It is more than you need, but then you would have spares in case another shoe drops in your system. Here is a link to the listing and hope maybe this helps. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Simrad-Autopilot/323577865436

 

[boomerang]

I recently listed my Simrad on eBay. It came from a custom aluminum trawler and everything was in perfect working order from inside a protected pilothouse. I was upgrading to all new digital electronics with NMEA 2000 backbone and decided to upgrade everything, even though I was told that these Simrad autopilots are pretty solid. It is more than you need, but then you would have spares in case another shoe drops in your system. Here is a link to the listing and hope maybe this helps. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Simrad-Autopilot/323577865436

Thats a pretty good price if everything works! Pump too...that's a really good deal!
I guess you have it configured as a virtual feedback system since there's no feedback?

 

[boomerang]

Oops! I see what I thought was a compass is the linear feedback interface. I guess I should've read the listing first!
Still a good deal for someone.

 

[Shaunc]

I had the same problem and kept searching ebay and craigslist etc for months looking for a replacement head.



I eventually found a complete system on ebay. The 3000 computer, compass and head unit for $450. the head units alone were selling for $700.



Turned out everything worked fine and I was going to sell the computer and compass but decided I would keep them as spares.


Good luck and keep searching. Try marine salvage yards. We have a few here in Florida and can get you some names if needed.

 

[yamabuki]

A few years ago, with Simrad support's help, I upgraded a failed AP300X like yours with a later AP22 control head.

You should be able to use the AP11, AP20, AP21, or AP22 control heads, depending on the EPROM programming. They all use J300X (J300X-40) or J3000X junction units.

According to Simrad, in order to recognize the later AP20-22 series, the EPROM chip in the J300X has to be V1R8 minimum. It's P/N is 22081640. I last paid about $200 for V1R9 from Simrad in 2011, but they have since been discontinued.

There is an AP300X Control Unit on eBay right now https://www.ebay.com/itm/Robertson-Simrad-AP300X-autopilot-control-head-TESTED-WORKING/223269684257?epid=1225110255&hash=item33fbe90421:g:RLQAAOSwVYhb~9Zl:rk:31f:0 that looks pretty clean. It is about the same price as some of the later control heads but without the worry about EPROM compatibility or upgrading. Might be the easiest fix.

Managed to get a ap300x controller that looks good and now must reset the software etc but should I carry out a "master reset" first and how do I call it up, thanks.

 

[menzies]

My computer crapped out and it is the higher amp model so absolutely no chance of getting a replacement. So I upgraded computer and both control heads to NMEA 2000. I just listed the AP20 and AP22 control heads on Sunday.
I also have a 300X computer that I will be listing next weekend as I bought one from eBay that came with a short warranty, but then my electronics guy told me it was the wrong ampage for my boat! I haven't even unwrapped it!

 

[GregBrannon]

now must reset the software etc but should I carry out a "master reset" first and how do I call it up,

I forget which controllers you have and am too lazy to search the whole thread, but you should be able to find a manual for those heads which then provide instructions on how to set up and maybe factory reset the AP Computer/Junction Unit. I have the AP20/21 manual which I found online. I believe it was in the legacy/no longer supported section of the manufacturer's site.