Anchor Chain Issue

[Jdornick]

Hello All,
We just installed 400 feet of new galvanized anchor chain. When we pull it back into the boat the chain has been clinging to itself and stacking up along the hawse hold. Any tips or tricks to prevent this from happening?
Thanks,
Joy Dornick
M/V Tidings of Joy
52 DeFever Euro
San Diego, Ca

 

[RickyD]

I think you are talking about the chain piling up like mount Everest. When I put out lots of chain, I try to have my first mate push the chain pile over or she will take the wheel and I'll push it over. Otherwise it has piled all the way up and jammed. We have 500 feet and sometimes I need most of that.

 

[Jdornick]

That’s not what I’m talking about. Because of the galvanization it’s forcing the chain to cling to itself. We had only 200 feet prior to this (Non-galviniized) and it never happened. Wondering what to do about the galvanization to alleviate this problem.
Thanks.

 

[rslifkin]

Is the chain balling up in some weird way or is it just forming a tall pile (and not sliding enough to spread out) as it comes in?

 

[caltexflanc]

Maybe a picture would help. Does it start bunching up immediately? There was thread about this exact "new galvanized chain" issue just yesterday or the day before, but I don't see many of the replies, including mine, on this thread. ???

 

[rgano]

This sounds like a poor job of galvanizing. Drag the chain down a dirt road behind a pickup for a mile or two and then try it. Don't laugh, this works. OR you can just carefully run it in and out through the windlass until it "softens up."

 

[Jdornick]

Yes that is exactly what is happening. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Joy

 

[Marco Flamingo]

I have 350' of chain and the PO told me that somebody has to man the chain locker because it pyramids and doesn't fit nicely. The locker is divided in to 2/3 for the 350' chain with a smaller 1/3 for a second rode that is mostly line and would have to be let out and brought in by hand. I just don't see myself using 350' of chain very often, so I put all 350' out and manned the first 100' over into the little 1/3 locker on top of the second rode. If I ever use over 250' of chain, it would pull it from the other area and then I would have to remember to divvy up the chain again between the two areas when bringing it in. And I would likely only need the secondary rode after I put in the full 350' chain, so covering up the secondary isn't too big of an issue (a stern anchor is kept in an aft locker).

Putting your first 100' or so of chain off to the side somehow might work. If the chain becomes more user friendly over time, you might later store it all in one pile.

 

[rgano]

I have 350' of chain and the PO told me that somebody has to man the chain locker because it pyramids and doesn't fit nicely. The locker is divided in to 2/3 for the 350' chain with a smaller 1/3 for a second rode that is mostly line and would have to be let out and brought in by hand. I just don't see myself using 350' of chain very often, so I put all 350' out and manned the first 100' over into the little 1/3 locker on top of the second rode. If I ever use over 250' of chain, it would pull it from the other area and then I would have to remember to divvy up the chain again between the two areas when bringing it in. And I would likely only need the secondary rode after I put in the full 350' chain, so covering up the secondary isn't too big of an issue (a stern anchor is kept in an aft locker).

Putting your first 100' or so of chain off to the side somehow might work. If the chain becomes more user friendly over time, you might later store it all in one pile.

Piling up of chain is not what the PO was having issues with, but for those who do, forming a steep pyramid or cone out of some plywood or timber directly under the chain pipe coming into the chain locker will help distribute the chain.

 

[Codger2]

...... forming a steep pyramid or cone out of some plywood or timber directly under the chain pipe coming into the chain locker will help distribute the chain.

I've heard this before bur never met anyone who has done it. How about using a traffic cone?

 

[Arc]

The chain is bad.there are many ways of galvanizing. Your hot dip is no good. There are probably all kinds of little bumps ad sharp spots. Get rid of It and get American made “G “ anchor chain.

 

[rgano]

I've heard this before bur never met anyone who has done it. How about using a traffic cone?

The chain would quickly crush a traffic cone, but one could be strengthened with say wood lathes stuffed into and maybe mortar mix to congeal it all together.

 

[Peter B]

I've heard this before bur never met anyone who has done it. How about using a traffic cone?

The chain is bad.there are many ways of galvanizing. Your hot dip is no good. There are probably all kinds of little bumps ad sharp spots. Get rid of It and get American made “G “ anchor chain.

The chain would quickly crush a traffic cone, but one could be strengthened with say wood lathes stuffed into and maybe mortar mix to congeal it all together.

There is some confusion here. Many are addressing the old issue of piling in the locker. What the OP is describing is 'sticky' newly (and ? poorly) galvanised chain literally sticking together in lumps before it even gets into the locker. This can happen also at the other end of its life, with very rusty chain, when the galvanising is virtually gone. Ask me how I know..?

This issue with the new stuff would solve itself over time and use - or the more laborious method of the remove and drag behind the car method, as rgano suggested.

If just chucking it for better quality like Arc said, is not feasible, (that I understand), then personally I'd go for the use over time method, but speeded up, by piling the chain, on sacks or similar, on the foredeck in between retrievals for a while, and do as many drops and retrievals as possible in a short space of time, without regard to the depth and length normally needed, (a pile on the bottom won't matter), but just to get it all out there and run back and forth several times for the whole length. Engine running of course to assist the batteries. Just a thought..?

 

[78puget-trawler]

I think the above makes the most sense. Just has to get used to smooth it out.

 

[BruceK]

Unshackle the anchor( tie it off to something first), run the chain out(check the bitter end is well attached to the boat) and do some reversing, preferably in water shallow enough to get plenty of chain on the seafloor but not too shallow(thus preserving running gear and rudders).
Unloading, transporting twice, and reloading the chain is well avoided if you can. My 80M drum of 8mm L chain was damn heavy.

 

[Sabre602]

The galvanizing place doesn't sound like they have experience with anchor chain; have you spoken to them about the problem? They may have the capability to tumble the chain to knock down all the snaggly bits.

Alternatively, though the dragging down a dirt road trick may sound a little "hillbilly," taking a few turns around a large parking lot with a length of chain looped out behind the vehicle will make a huge difference.

 

[Peter B]

I suggest you save yourself a lot of hassle and just do what I suggested above in post #13. Go out somewhere nice. Take drinks and food. Have a picnic out there, but just running the engine to keep up the charge, and drop the anchor and virtually all the chain somewhere, preferably away from a rocky bottom, and then retrieve then drop fully again several times, preferably onto something to protect the foredeck until it will run cleanly into the locker hawse.

It won't take too much to knock the odd high spots off the galvanise. Also, as Bruce mentioned, make sure it is well attached in the locker, and a good idea there is to attach the whole length to the inside locker mount with a decent, (say 12 feet), of a rope rode like nylon, so if you ever have to let it all go in an emergency you can cut the rope part, hopefully having time to attach a float of some kind, for later retrieval. It also ensures that if you accidentally 'run her all out', the last part will just slip on the gypsy, and not yank the guts out of the locker.

 

[jrhodes777]

I have the piling up issue. Any details on a pyramid to prevent this would be great. Thanks

 

[JP2]

I had my chain re-galvanized resulting in same symptoms. It was like periodic 12" to 15" iron bars trying to get forced thru the gypsy. No road on this earth for dragging was going to solve the problem. Had to replace it all with new and sold the old thru a second hand store consignment. Best to not fight it. Marine purposed chain needs to be tumbled after galvanizing. Period.

 

[FF]

The traditional method of storing chain is a tall narrow box where it is impossible for the chain to fall over and tangle ,

The size of the box depended on the size of the chain selected.

 

[dieck]

Instead of trying all sorts of constructions to avoid piling, just use a stainless steel chain and your problem is gone.

 

[Comodave]

Yes, s/s chain won’t pile up as easily, but the cost will be staggering. I am fortunate that our rope locker is very deep and also wide. I glassed in a bulkhead to divide it into 2 compartments so I could put the backup rode in the locker also. I even have enough room that I could divide it again and have 3 lockers if there was a use for the 3rd one.

 

[FlyWright]

My chain does the same 'pyramiding'. I've tried several mods to keep it from piling up, even plastic tiles to provide a "chain slide", but none worked perfectly.

I've learned that after about 90 ft, it fills the pyramid so every 60-75 ft, I go below and knock it down before it jams. It's just one more step in the de-anchoring process but it only takes about 10 secs.

 

[Wayfarer]

My chain does the same 'pyramiding'. I've tried several mods to keep it from piling up, even plastic tiles to provide a "chain slide", but none worked perfectly.

I've learned that after about 90 ft, it fills the pyramid so every 60-75 ft, I go below and knock it down before it jams. It's just one more step in the de-anchoring process but it only takes about 10 secs.

Same thing on my setup. I just plan to take a trip down to the locker every so often to shove the chain around. It's a bit of a pain, but if it's the worst part of my day, then I'm doing alright.

 

[Mark P]

Would a lot of this tangling and other issues be avoided with a stainless steel chain?

 

[Mark P]

Disregard my post, just saw Comodave's post. Apologies.

 

[Nomad Willy]

I avoid all this w "Brait" anchor line.
See black plastic box w grey lid.

 

[Wayfarer]

I avoid all this w "Brait" anchor line.
See black plastic box w grey lid.

That sure is a fine looking ship you have there, sir.

 

[koliver]

My chain does the same 'pyramiding'. I've tried several mods to keep it from piling up, even plastic tiles to provide a "chain slide", but none worked perfectly.

I've learned that after about 90 ft, it fills the pyramid so every 60-75 ft, I go below and knock it down before it jams. It's just one more step in the de-anchoring process but it only takes about 10 secs.

Mine fell over when I got into some very rolly conditions last month. Yesterday's project was to haul it all out on deck and pile it properly. Going below to knock the pile over ever 50' worked. I am now ready for this week's anchoring.

 

[nwboater]

Hello All,
We just installed 400 feet of new galvanized anchor chain. When we pull it back into the boat the chain has been clinging to itself and stacking up along the hawse hold. Any tips or tricks to prevent this from happening?
Thanks,
Joy Dornick
M/V Tidings of Joy
52 DeFever Euro
San Diego, Ca

I have experienced this after re-galvanizing my anchor chain...As suggested, run it through the wildcat until all the “spikes” chip off (remember to wash out the chain locker.)