Alternator MANDO

[Lou_tribal]

In an effort to find out more about my current setup that I am modifying I checked today and saw that my alternator brand is Mando.
It looks like this one (visually speaking):
https://www.go2marine.com/product/1...2-volt-55-amp-20054-uni-series-universal.html

Anybody know these?
I guess these are simple stupid alt with basic voltage regulator (no multistage)?

L

 

[FF]

The add shows a std auto style alt , tho with the field wire available a 3 -4 stage V regulator would be easy to install.

For a house battery bank more than 55A would be a big help.

NAPA and others sell rebuilt Alts for older large cars 65-75A made for an external regulator , $35.00 ? with core?

 

[Maerin]

The fly in the ointment with use of a "stock" shelf alternator comes when converted from internal to external regulation. They're designed to replace a relatively minimal amount of energy that's used to start the engine, probably the biggest consumer of power in the automotive application for which they're designed. When pressed to replace the many amp hours displaced in a marine house bank, they're now tasked with a job which exceeds their design parameters. They were never intended to crank out full field current for more than the few minutes it takes to replace the starting current, so the upshot is that they're now overheating in grand style, and they just won't tolerate that abuse.



So while the temptation is there to economize with a COTS alternator, the reality is that there's a mismatch that can result in failure. There are sources for heavy duty alternators that are more affordable than a Balmar. A good external "smart" regulator can be equipped with a temperature sensor that will protect the alternator against overheating.



Keep in mind, the alternator is a part of the system. When considering any change to the 12V system on board, a change in a single part has to be backed up with appropriate changes in the rest of the system, or you'll just be chasing new problems. See the whole picture!

 

[DavidM]

Lou: Are you intending to use the alternator with an external regulator for heavy duty charging? Steve is absolutely right, above. Internally regulated alternators won't last if tasked with heavy charging with an external regulator.


Also what engine do you have?


David

 

[Lou_tribal]

I plan to fit a sterling ProAltC as an external regulator. It monitors bat & alt temperature. Price is almost the same as a "standard" alt external regulator and does not requires any modification on the alt itself.

My engine, well Acadia AD30, pretty sure you do not know it as almost nobody knows. Only person I found to know that engine was an old fisherman from Nova Scotia

L

L

 

[DavidM]

Lou: One more time, what are you trying to accomplish? If it is to recharge your batteries faster then I don't think the Sterling device will do much for you.

The Sterling device will put a heavy load on your alternator, then it will back off as the alternator gets too hot, which will happen quickly if you have a decent size battery bank. You will be spending a lot of money for the Sterling and not get any where near the rated output of your alternator, which is low to start with.


Balmar alternators have better cooling, heavier windings and heavier diodes to take long term high output charging.

Look at Balmar's website and follow their 5 steps to select an appropriate alternator- Selecting a Charging System | Balmar. Your existing one looks like a 2" single foot Delco type- step 4.


The 100A series 6 alternator looks like a good choice for a 200 Ah AGM bank or a 300 Ah FLA bank or greater. Pick the 70A alternator if your bank is smaller.

David

 

[Benthic2]

In an effort to find out more about my current setup that I am modifying I checked today and saw that my alternator brand is Mando.
L

was the pun intentional ??

 

[Aquabelle]

Consider a Leece Neville alternator: a lot less than an equivalent output Balmar, super high quality and easily modified for external regulation. Your plan to use a regulator with both battery and alt temperature monitoring is a good one....though I've not heard of the specific model you mentioned. Balmar regs are worth the price IMHO.

 

[Ski in NC]

Mando's were used on lots of Mercruiser gas engines. Should be pretty easy to drag the exciter leads out of the frame to use an external regulator. Never done that on a Mando, but it is just basic wiring and trash the regulator. I think the Mando's had spark protection necessary on gasser apps which you don't need on a diesel.

Autolite alternators are built for external regulators and that is what I run on my Cummins. They were used on lots of Ford cars/trucks in the 60s/70s/80s and are available cheap anywhere. Balmar buys them too and paints them pretty white!!

 

[Lou_tribal]

was the pun intentional ??

Lol totally unintentional

L

 

[Lou_tribal]

Lou: One more time, what are you trying to accomplish? If it is to recharge your batteries faster then I don't think the Sterling device will do much for you.

The Sterling device will put a heavy load on your alternator, then it will back off as the alternator gets too hot, which will happen quickly if you have a decent size battery bank. You will be spending a lot of money for the Sterling and not get any where near the rated output of your alternator, which is low to start with.


Balmar alternators have better cooling, heavier windings and heavier diodes to take long term high output charging.

Look at Balmar's website and follow their 5 steps to select an appropriate alternator- Selecting a Charging System | Balmar. Your existing one looks like a 2" single foot Delco type- step 4.


The 100A series 6 alternator looks like a good choice for a 200 Ah AGM bank or a 300 Ah FLA bank or greater. Pick the 70A alternator if your bank is smaller.

David

David, not my intend to replace my alt at this point.
I am changing my house battery bank, charger and was looking at getting the best charge from my current alt. I wanted to know if I was right thinking that this alt is a simple one with no multistage. In fact I don't even know if it is a 55 or 65 amps one or anything else as there is no more sticker on it.


L

 

[Lou_tribal]

Mando's were used on lots of Mercruiser gas engines. Should be pretty easy to drag the exciter leads out of the frame to use an external regulator. Never done that on a Mando, but it is just basic wiring and trash the regulator. I think the Mando's had spark protection necessary on gasser apps which you don't need on a diesel.

Autolite alternators are built for external regulators and that is what I run on my Cummins. They were used on lots of Ford cars/trucks in the 60s/70s/80s and are available cheap anywhere. Balmar buys them too and paints them pretty white!!

What I find interesting with the ProAltC is that it is providing external regulation quite easily and offer split between house and start. I did my research and people seems to be happy with it in RV or boat world. But I am not an expert so I may be wrong.

L

 

[Xsbank]

A large truck alternator is a good buy, get a rebuilt version - they will handle a larger continuous load as they had large demands from lighting etc. and they are not as expensive as a Balmar (by a long shot). The Leece Neville is a good example. Tat little one you have will bake if you try and make it do something for which it was not designed. Then externally regulate it.

If your starter takes 10 seconds to start your engine, let's say it pulls 500 amp hours, your alternator only has to generate 1.4 amps to replenish your start battery. Now you are going to ask it to put, say 50 amps into a house bank for a few hours at a time? See the problem?

Most of this was already mentioned. Then keep your old one for a spare.

Get solar panels! I have 600 watts and I haven't run my genset for over a year, except to heat it up to change the oil.

 

[FF]

For a boat that will be cruising and using the DC system for their std of living , the cost of modifying the alt mounts , to install a large frame alt are worth the expense.

At the same time the use of 2 V belts will cut down maint if the unit is much over 100A very often.

A truck 135A LN alt is about $135 at a truck engine place like Detroit Diesel , and is already wired for an external V regulator.

Small frame rewired , rebuilt, re painted "yacht" alts. have a harder time with long term use.

On any alt be sure the cooling fan matches the direction it is spun.

When everything works well, get a second alt and V regulator , and install them.

Keep the first units as proven spares.


For safety sake be sure the field cutoffs on the battery selection rotary switch are hooked up.

 

[CMS]

In an effort to find out more about my current setup that I am modifying I checked today and saw that my alternator brand is Mando.
It looks like this one (visually speaking):
https://www.go2marine.com/product/1...2-volt-55-amp-20054-uni-series-universal.html

Anybody know these?
I guess these are simple stupid alt with basic voltage regulator (no multistage)?

L

The Mando's were a Korean made import knock-off of the Leece-Neville / Motorola style 8MR alts. They are not a very good nor a very robust product for charging house banks when compared to a genuine Leece-Neville 8MR. They are internally regulated, but do offer a + v-sense, which can help a bit. Still not a LN 8MR..

Products such as a the LN 8MR2070TA (90A) come standard with an adjustable internal voltage regulator so you can set it more appropriately for your use. Yes these are more expensive units but very robust & well built for a small frame. Beware of Leece-Neville knock offs though and buy only genuine LN...

As for the ProAlt C, do yourself a favor and have an alt shop tap into the field for you. This is not expensive. We are a Sterling Dealer and you won't find that product in our store. Charlie makes some great stuff, some middle of the road and some "gimmicky" stuff.

A Balmar ARS-5 is a great product that actually allows you to de-tune a stock small frame alt, using Belt Load Manager, so as to to not over heat it, and the programability of a Balmar is miles beyond the Sterlings...

Course we know nothing about your bank, or use, and a factory automotive grade alternator may work suitably well if you tie to a dock all week and only over-night on weekends?

 

[Lou_tribal]

Course we know nothing about your bank, or use, and a factory automotive grade alternator may work suitably well if you tie to a dock all week and only over-night on weekends?

My new bank is made of 4 GC2 for a total of 410AH.
For now my usage is pretty much what you describe, most of the time the boat is docked during the week and we spend the weekend at anchor, 1 to 3 nights at most. During our vacations we mainly cruise on the Rideau area and tie overnight to lock's dock. When cruising we rarely cruise less than 3h to 4h in a row to reach our destination.

L