All electric galley

[FWT]

For what its worth, I wandering into the Nordhavn site to peek at the N41. Which is intended to be sold fully equipped without a lot of options choices. It has a fully electric galley. Induction stovetop with a microwave convection oven.

 

[rsn48]

I use easy off on my barbeques (weber) and all manner of things. It is also great for the smooth stove tops that crap up really fast.

For your grill racks if you want to make them look like new. Get one newspaper, lay rack on the paper so you can close up the rack and there is newspaper all around. Spray the rack liberally on both sides and wrap with the newspaper (stops the evaporation of fluid from the easy off). Do on day one, let sit overnight, and wash off easy off the next day. Your rack should be all nice and shiny.

With stoves and ovens, spray on, wait a few hours, wipe off with paper towels.

 

[OldDan1943]

Or underway, let the main engine heat the water for use in sinks and shower.
Remember, the engine will heat up the contents of the hot water tank greater than the heating elements.

 

[OldDan1943]

Boathealer: "We have 1600Ah house bank and 1400W of solar, so yes, we've gone full electric - full size 3-door house fridge, Induction cooktop, convection oven/microwave and electric grill in the cockpit. Now even a 5-6hp electric dinghy outboard and charging the 24V thruster/windlass bank directly from the 12V house bank.

We typically have excess solar power available during the summer, so I am working on a method to automatically switch to a 12V water heater element when the batteries are fully replenished."
******************************
What boat do you have? That is one fine battery bank. Topped off with a good size solar array.

 

[hrifraf]

The only downside to electric is the need to run the generator to cook while away from shore power which is not a big deal.

Actually, it IS a big deal. Running the generator while you are cooking disturbs everyone else in your anchorage.



Unless you have the kind of generator that you can't hear from outside the boat (and that includes the splash, splash of the exhaust), you should not be running the generator while at anchor, if there are other boats in the anchorage.


Charge your batteries while underway, and then anchor and enjoy the beauty and silence of your surroundings.

 

[OldDan1943]

hirfraf, Obviously you have different weather than we in south FL.
IF underway on a usual day, open the pilot house and aft door, enjoy the breeze.
If docked or anchored, I think I'd die without A/C.

 

[rslifkin]

Actually, it IS a big deal. Running the generator while you are cooking disturbs everyone else in your anchorage.



Unless you have the kind of generator that you can't hear from outside the boat (and that includes the splash, splash of the exhaust), you should not be running the generator while at anchor, if there are other boats in the anchorage.


Charge your batteries while underway, and then anchor and enjoy the beauty and silence of your surroundings.

Sorry, but that's a pretty pompous attitude. I hate noisy generators as much as the next guy, but if it's not late at night or early in the morning, running a well muffled generator is no big deal. Unless it's truly a dead silent anchorage, some faint water splashing isn't particularly noticeable or objectionable.

 

[catalinajack]

With respect, sir, my generators disturb no one. Except when astern of the boat (splashing water only) my generators cannot be heard outside of the boat beyond hearing the water within 25 feet and then only within sight line. Why do we see this bogus comment here over and over? Perhaps there are some boats that have noisy generators but I have never heard one. My goodness, I have had boats come and go into and from the berth right next to me and never heard a thing except for faint propeller noise when down in the aft cabin. So, no sir, it is not a big deal.

Actually, it IS a big deal. Running the generator while you are cooking disturbs everyone else in your anchorage.



Unless you have the kind of generator that you can't hear from outside the boat (and that includes the splash, splash of the exhaust), you should not be running the generator while at anchor, if there are other boats in the anchorage.


Charge your batteries while underway, and then anchor and enjoy the beauty and silence of your surroundings.

 

[catalinajack]

And, if it is hot and I want/need to run my air conditioner, I will run my generator and make no apology to you or anyone else. Same for charging batteries. Stay more than one night and you expect me to trash my batteries? Pompous is too kind a word for your assertion. Don't like what you are hearing, weigh anchor and go somewhere else.

Actually, it IS a big deal. Running the generator while you are cooking disturbs everyone else in your anchorage.



Unless you have the kind of generator that you can't hear from outside the boat (and that includes the splash, splash of the exhaust), you should not be running the generator while at anchor, if there are other boats in the anchorage.


Charge your batteries while underway, and then anchor and enjoy the beauty and silence of your surroundings.

 

[OldDan1943]

My 6KW generator exhaust underwater. I suspect I hear more inside the boat than outside. Turn on the A/C and I dont hear the generator at all.
Basically, it's my generator, I'm not afraid to use it. WINK

 

[caltexflanc]

Ironically the generator complainers are often the guys with the noisy clanging halyards.
Our generator on our old Hatteras was quiet outside, just some sound from the cooling water. If you could hear that and be bothered, you were anchored too close to me. Whenever we could, we tried to anchor at the outer entrance side of the anchorage, and when we couldn't, to the farthest port side, as our exhaust was on the port side.

 

[Taras]

My experience is that Boat insurance is more expensive when the underwriter finds out you have Propane onboard. We are all electric galley. We do have a propane grill on the flybridge however. Before you decide gas or electric galley, it might be worth a call to your insurance agent to see what the impact might be on your premium......

 

[rsn48]

Many with generators that emit a low hum consider them silent. Those who go into wilderness areas beside the guy with the generator do not consider a low hum as acceptable.

I have spent roughly $15,000 or more so as to be silent. I have 6 fireflies, 210 Efoy, 3 solar panels, and add installation costs to that quote.

 

[OldDan1943]

Okay, let's stir the pot again.

Start by reading the below.
http://theinductionsite.com/electricity.php

I am trying to electrically 'fit' a 2 burner induction stove top and a 3in1 microwave, induction, broil oven.
I have a 30amp boat. I can do the "30amp dance" with style and grace.
I have a 20amp breaker to my current electric 3 burner stove/oven
I have a 15amp breaker on my shared (house) service including my 1200watt microwave.

From what I have read, I do not see a way to support a 3in1 oven without putting in another 20amp so I may have to settle for a microwave/induction oven. Either way, I will still have to do the "30amp dance".
Now, there is one strong advantage to the current resistance burners. Once up to heat, I can rotate the burner operation and oven w/o doing the "dance". Of course, if I turn the microwave on, "dance, dance, dance". With induction cooking, turn the burner off..... the food stops cooking. Cant rotate the induction burners like I do with the resistance burners.
If you recall, I can put the existing 1200watt microwave on my 1800watt inverter but for less than a minute without sucking the battery voltage to about 12vt (starting at between 12.5 and 13.5). (3X4D house batteries.) Edit: starting battery voltage 13.5, cup of coffee for 1 minute, 12.2vt. Within a minute the battery voltage is back up to13vts

Okay, my question, can it be done successfully, installing a 3in1 oven? The more I read, the less I think the 3in1 oven will play nice with the rest of the system.

 

[rslifkin]

You have 2x 30A inlets, correct? Is there any possibility of upgrading to 50A?

There's no reason you can't over-subscribe breakers within a bus relative to the total bus power. It's the concurrent usage that matters.

So you could easily have a 20A stove breaker, 20A microwave breaker, 15A outlets breaker, etc. on one 30A inlet. Or put some things on a second leg with A/C units, for example.

On my boat with 2x 50A legs, L1 has the water heater, battery charger, 30A stove breaker, 3 outlet circuits, etc. L2 has 3x A/C systems, a 20A microwave circuit, ice maker.

 

[OldDan1943]

rsl, the microwave is on a circuit that feeds 3X120vt outlets plus the microwave.

Yea, if I had a 50amp boat, I would be King and not having any choices to make for it would all fit together nicely.

 

[rslifkin]

rsl, the microwave is on a circuit that feeds 3X120vt outlets plus the microwave.

Yea, if I had a 50amp boat, I would be King and not having any choices to make for it would all fit together nicely.

It might not be too hard to put the microwave on its own breaker.



As far as going to 50 amp, if the bus bars in the panel and the shore/generator selector switch can handle 50 amps being fed through them, it would be as simple as new shore power inlet, new wires from inlet to selector switch, new main breakers and new shore power cord. Depending on your generator size and how it's wired, there's a good chance the switch and panel bus bars can already handle the extra power.

 

[sbman]

Okay, let's stir the pot again.

Start by reading the below.
http://theinductionsite.com/electricity.php

I am trying to electrically 'fit' a 2 burner induction stove top and a 3in1 microwave, induction, broil oven.
I have a 30amp boat. I can do the "30amp dance" with style and grace.
I have a 20amp breaker to my current electric 3 burner stove/oven
I have a 15amp breaker on my shared (house) service including my 1200watt microwave.

From what I have read, I do not see a way to support a 3in1 oven without putting in another 20amp so I may have to settle for a microwave/induction oven. Either way, I will still have to do the "30amp dance".
Now, there is one strong advantage to the current resistance burners. Once up to heat, I can rotate the burner operation and oven w/o doing the "dance". Of course, if I turn the microwave on, "dance, dance, dance". With induction cooking, turn the burner off..... the food stops cooking. Cant rotate the induction burners like I do with the resistance burners.
If you recall, I can put the existing 1200watt microwave on my 1800watt inverter but for less than a minute without sucking the battery voltage to about 12vt (starting at between 12.5 and 13.5). (3X4D house batteries.) Edit: starting battery voltage 13.5, cup of coffee for 1 minute, 12.2vt. Within a minute the battery voltage is back up to13vts

Okay, my question, can it be done successfully, installing a 3in1 oven? The more I read, the less I think the 3in1 oven will play nice with the rest of the system.

I don't think I understand the reasoning here. If you are talking about consumer marketed countertop appliances, they are all going to be 15 amp devices designed to work with a 15 amp circuit and breaker. Your current microwave works, so why would plugging a 3 in 1 into the same outlet be any different? For example, the Breville 3 in 1 microwave is a 1200 watt microwave, or if you are using in convection mode, a 1400 watt heating element/fan, or in broil mode, 1100 watts. Only one mode can be used at a time and it maxes at 1400 watts so it would be roughly equivalent to your existing microwave.

 

[OldDan1943]

It might not be too hard to put the microwave on its own breaker.



As far as going to 50 amp, if the bus bars in the panel and the shore/generator selector switch can handle 50 amps being fed through them, it would be as simple as new shore power inlet, new wires from inlet to selector switch, new main breakers and new shore power cord. Depending on your generator size and how it's wired, there's a good chance the switch and panel bus bars can already handle the extra power.

My NL 6KW is rated as 50amps and the generator breakers are 50amp. LOL
So IF I want it all to work, divorce the shore power and start the generator to cook. LOL

 

[rslifkin]

My NL 6KW is rated as 50amps and the generator breakers are 50amp. LOL
So IF I want it all to work, divorce the shore power and start the generator to cook. LOL

If it's set up so that you can draw 50 amps on either of your 30A panel legs (but no more than 50 amps total, of course), then it would probably be pretty easy to convert to 50A shore power. Should just be the new inlets, wiring from inlet to selector, breakers, and new cords. Might be worth investigating if the 30A is limiting on a frequent basis.