Aging window caulk

[Bonedoc]

So the admiral asked me to clean “dirty” window caulk. I initially tried some bleach cleaners without success.

Upon looking more closely the caulk is aging and cracked(see pictures and zoom last one).

The windows do not leak- yet.

I imagine that I need to remove the caulk and reapply.

Asking here for pre- project help regarding tools, technique, and best products.

Thanks.

 

[Cigatoo]

I have not used this tool however it was recommended by a trusted source at one time.
https://www.amazon.com/CRL-E-Z-D-Glazer-DeGlazing-Tool/dp/B00QMNJW4E

As a side note, I had window leaks with my Fortier 26. Teak windscreen is very similar to yours. I went back to Fortier. He advised that the glass had to come out and would most likely break. I ended up having them remove and replace all 5 glass panels (Can you say mission creep?). The results were worth the $$$ as the new glass made a huge difference with visibility and appearance. I stripped and varnished after the replacement. Just my experience.

 

[Bonedoc]

Well no leaks yet…. I am obviously reluctant to pull all windows at this time. I will move forward with interior caulk removal for now. I will check out tool you advised tx.

 

[SailorGreg]

I have not used this tool however it was recommended by a trusted source at one time.
https://www.amazon.com/CRL-E-Z-D-Glazer-DeGlazing-Tool/dp/B00QMNJW4E

As a side note, I had window leaks with my Fortier 26. Teak windscreen is very similar to yours. I went back to Fortier. He advised that the glass had to come out and would most likely break. I ended up having them remove and replace all 5 glass panels (Can you say mission creep?). The results were worth the $$$ as the new glass made a huge difference with visibility and appearance. I stripped and varnished after the replacement. Just my experience.

I have done this job a few times. Removed and replaced the caulk. Lots of tools out there that will get the bulk of the old caulk out, but the only thing I found to get the remnant caulk out was a safety razor. And yes, you need to be really careful.
The problem is, silicone caulk will adhere to most anything, except older silicone caulk. So if you don’t get all the old stuff out the new stuff will not adhere.
I would plan on the new caulk covering a larger edge than the old, covering up the mess left from the removal. Or look at my final recommendation, below.
Hard to tell from the picture, but it looks like some PO might have tried to put a layer of something clear over the old caulk…?
You might find it faster to just get the old caulk out, regardless of the damage to the frame, then just paint the frame before the new caulk is applied. Then you can apply a much smaller bead and it will look great.
Good luck.

 

[PierreR]

One of those vibrating power tools with a flat blade without burrs and use masking tape right to the caulk to prevent scratching the paint above it. Clean up with mineral spirits. Removes entire window caulk in about 15 minutes or less.

 

[Bonedoc]

Ok good ideas- I will tackle soon. Thanks for all the input.

 

[LovetoBoat]

One last point since I have replaced 3 sliding windows, 3 hatches and 4 port lights.



Do one window at a time - preferably not the largest or the one most visible when you step on the boat - and learn what worked and did not work - like using tape around the area you are going to caulk. I was never good about using a finger to smooth out the caulk - with or with out a glove.
I would re-bed the windows as well. Remove the entire window - clean up the window and the surface - re-caulk and replace. I prefer to do it once and let it work for another 10 or 20 years... Good Luck.

 

[Pete Meisinger]

Dig, baby, dig.

pete

 

[Bonedoc]

Well the boat is garaged for four months with full access so I may consider pulling the windows. I guess I am removing caulk from both sides and then work the window out? Now that I am perhaps heading in deeper I will have to explore this some more. I agree that it may be foolish to only remove all the inside caulk and then having to do it again in the future when the leaks start. If the caulk is bad and cracking inside- I better have a good look outside.

 

[JDCAVE]

I’m not sure how your windows are attached, but I have rebedded all the Pilothouse windows on our KK42. I posted my work on the thread KK42 windows thread on the Kadey Krogen forum on the builders forum.

The trick is to take your time and one window at a time. I used a hot knife to cut through the caulk. Acetone for cleanup.

Jim

 

[Bonedoc]

Thanks Jim I’ll check it out.

 

[Jarrow Lily]

My preferred bedding sealant is Butyl tape. I re-bedded 10 acrylic windows on our Hartley 32 which we keep in Wellington, NZ, five years ago. Not a leak so far.


It does 'creep' but excess is easily removed by trimming with a sharp craft knife. White spirit for clean up.


I use white for our UK boat - the pilot house is Island Packet cream - and black for the Hartley.