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Old 02-14-2020, 03:39 PM   #1
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The adventures of Anika J

I named this thread in honour of Wayfarer's "Adventures of Sylphide", simple because I have enjoyed that thread so much.

We (Olivia, the Admiral) and I bought Anika J a couple of weeks ago, and I am in Manly, Qld, working on a number of things that need to be done before we head offshore, primarily rigging and adapting the paravanes, changing the rudder geometry to improve slow speed manoeuvring, modifying the main cabin settee to become my bunk while underway, adding power points (I will be working from the vessel) and generally learning her systems. First an image:

She is a Holmes-designed and built 48' timber boat, with a draft of 6'3" (1.9m), a beam of 4.2m (14'), and a displacement of approximately 30+ tons.

I will make these posts short, and if anyone can advise me how to post images and place text in between, I will be grateful. If this is not possible, I will post one or more images that are related to the text for ease of reading.
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Old 02-14-2020, 04:15 PM   #2
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Today's task was to improve low-speed handling. Anika J has a deep, long keel, with all the advantages that has—and the disadvantages, too. I modified the rudder on Seabiscuit, following the lead of the commercial fishermen in our area, by attaching a piece of stainless right angle bracket vertically on the rudder, perpendicular to the prop wash, like this:

I am now able to turn Seabiscuit in slightly over her length in still water, in three moves: hard over to port, short burst forward, and this gets the bow swinging; astern (rudder in same position); prop walk continues the bow swing (left-handed prop); this washes off any forward momentum; and repeat (one or two times more).

But our new boat, Anika J, is presently in the water, and I wanted to see if we could improve her rudder deflection angle in situ. We disassembled the rudder gear, and used a puller to remove the tiller arm:

The tiller arm has had the ram hole re-drilled, 36mm closer to the rudder post, and I moved the ram support block assembly forward by a similar amount to maintain the original geometry. I will show the arm refitted in the next post. Reassembling yesterday and testing showed that moving the arm attachment point by this amount improved the deflection angle by 10 or so. We are making a new bracket to hold the rudder arm limiting chains, so that nothing fouls with the additional movement.

The grey bars are lead ingots, for trim, we assume.
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Old 02-14-2020, 08:28 PM   #3
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Great looking vessel you have there, look forward to your improvements.
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Old 02-14-2020, 10:58 PM   #4
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Thank you, John,

The listing that caught my attention was this:

https://yachthub.com/list/boats-for-...cruiser/243116

I will attach some bare-hull images below; the hull was out of the water for 7 months, and about 10 planks were replaced, and much work done on the transom. Once the hull was completely dry and the repairs effected, the caulking was removed and epoxy putty replaced it. Then the hull was 'tri-axially glassed': this was a new technique to me, but common on commercial wooden vessels here: to wraps at 90 from upper hull to keel, and a final wrap across the hull.

The list of work done by the immediately previous owner is impressive: rot in the cabin rook repaired, full paint job, full engine service (including injectors), impellers and hoses replaced (and a full set of spares left in the ER); all fluids replaced, including gearbox, all filters replaced, new 24V deckwash installed, new morse control, anchor chain removed, pressure washed, and marked; exhaust boxes and hoses replaced, hydraulic steering serviced, Capstan dismantled and serviced, new hopper window fitted to rear bulkhead; full service to air conditioning, including one new pump, all fire extinguishers replaced, new restraining chains fitted to rudder (we will have to change these once I have fitted the modified tiller arm); E floor repainted; bulwarks painted; new upholstery in saloon and cabin; new carpet, underlay and soundproofing; new Epirb and flares; all skin fittings pulled when hull was glassed, too. There's more, but these are the main ones.
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Old Yesterday, 12:54 AM   #5
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Very interesting, keep them coming. It has some history. I know it is glassed now, but what timber was used in the hull?
You must have good boat design/maintenance skills, where do they come from?

"Holmes" is a well known boating name in Sydney. Builders, 18ft sailor ,and currently marine surveying.
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Old Yesterday, 05:54 AM   #6
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The grey bars are sacrificial zincs. Make sure you keep them up but don't over zinc the boat. In the Cruising Down Under section in Thistle rudders you will see the rudder I have on Tidahapah. It has a fishtail on the trailing edge and over flow and underflow plates to direct the water stream. Reasonably efficient design.
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Old Yesterday, 05:22 PM   #7
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The grey bars I was referring to are found in the images of the lazarette (third image, second post); they are stamped "Lead". The circular grey things on the Seabiscuit rudder (the one with the stainless angle pseudo fishtail modification) are anodes; sorry if I wasn't clear.

The images show the modified rudder arm reinstalled, with the new stainless rotating tab to hold the restraining chains. Refitting the chains is tomorrow's task.

The new hole for the hydraulic ram is 36mm closer to the shaft, as mentioned; I moved the ram support block just over 30mm forward, to preserve the original geometry. On reassembly, we found that the ram had been mounted wrongly before (it was sitting on top of the rudder arm). Mounting the ram Heim joint under the arm improves the geometry considerably. The whole rudder assembly was serviced back in October 2019, including the replacement of the lines for the hydraulic system, so we think that this is when the error was made.

Two of the images show full port and starboard rudder deflection, following the modifications. When the instrument tech. visits, I have asked him to bring a rudder angle indicator, to measure the actual deflection angles. From eye, they have increased 10 or so.

To the gurus here: how can I rotate images to the correct orientation in the post?
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Old Yesterday, 05:34 PM   #8
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To BruceK: I have been on an extremely rapid learning curve since moving to the South Coast six years ago, and joining Marine Rescue . I have been working with two shipwrights there and a number of engineers, plus I have a background in science, and modified cars. I am a researcher and writer by profession. Here I have been working under the guidance of a boat designer and builder, and drawing on his network of experts. I have done all the work (apart from drilling the new hole in the tab; had to take it to the shop to get that done). I am literally learning many new things each day!

The next chapter will be the paravanes: the original ones I calculated at 310 square inches, and we felt we did not need such big ones. They have been cut down to 210 square inches approximately, and the bullets removed (they were huge and heavy) and about 30% of their length has been cut off. As well, a flat was machined on top for their full length, holes drilled and tapped, and a slot cut in the wing of each fish to make the bullet positions adjustable. Images to come.
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Old Today, 05:29 AM   #9
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She may require a bit of ballast re the lead. I know when Bertie (Bert Ellis) boat builder was working on her as a deck hand and general builder the fish were stowed at the stern either side of the Duck Board. From what Bert has told me ( they worked all up and down the coast and into Papua New Guinea) the stabilisers worked very well.
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Old Today, 03:19 PM   #10
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To the paravane gurus out there: assuming a fish is suspended from its intended hole, what downward angle are we looking for at rest? The way the fish have been re-designed, we can easily set any angle we want, on land.

Benn: yes, I am hoping to find many more of these bars as I dig into the engine room. Much of the ER sole is screwed down, so I have not been able to look yet. She feels like a ballasted boat but until I find these stacked down low, I won't know for sure.

Re. Bert Ellis: apparently in the big refit (some eight–ten years ago, but who really knows when this happened!), Bert used a chainsaw to cut the old house off... before building the current, beautiful one. I assume he's still working?

Re. the fish: as I bought the boat, these were really really heavy (about 25kg) and seemed like complete overkill. I measured/calculated each at 310 square inches. The Kolstrand site suggests that the 192 square inch models are the right ones for boats 30–50 feet; the 300 square inch ones are for boats 50–60 feet.

We are cutting ours down to 210 square inches and making the bullets adjustable (fore and aft) on the wings. And we are getting circular brackets made so the fish can be stored outboard of the capping rail near the booms (which themselves have been changed from horizontal storage to vertical, but not yet rigged); the theory is that the fish will be much easier to deploy that way. These monsters were stored in the lazarette when I bought her; they would not have been easily deployable at all, even for Arnie at his fittest! All the rigging is in the design phase presently; we are waiting on the welder to start his part.

I will weigh them too, once modified.
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Old Today, 03:22 PM   #11
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BruceK: I believe the planks are spotted gum over laminated frames. She was built to survey and was in survey for many years. The broker/builder, Jim Stuart, believes that she would not go back into survey now, as too many of the rules have changed since she was launched.
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Old Today, 04:15 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kit_L View Post
I named this thread in honour of Wayfarer's "Adventures of Sylphide", simple because I have enjoyed that thread so much.
Well how do ya like that? I'm honored!

Congratulations on your fine new ship. She's a real beauty. I wish you and your crew many miles of carefree cruising. May your repairs always be cheaper and easier than you expect.
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The Adventures of Sylphide
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Old Today, 04:20 PM   #13
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Kit,
One thing I do know re stabiliser fish is if you are going to deploy and retrieve them yourself make sure that you can winch them up reasonably hard to the end of your outrigger poles. Then hoist your poles if required ( depends on which port you are going into) everything can then be sorted once your are at anchor or alongside.
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Old Today, 04:26 PM   #14
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Dave wrote,
Quote:
May your repairs always be cheaper and easier than you expect.
That will never happen, I suspect!

Benn, the retrieval method you describe is what we are planning; good to know we're on the right track.
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