240vac split phase for oven

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

Ray.Yager

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2019
Messages
26
Location
US
Vessel Name
MV RADIANT
Vessel Make
1991 Carver Californian MY 4809
240vac split phase for HOB

Ok. I’m not an electrician, and I know enough to be dangerous here. I’m going to replace my old (1991) Origo 4-burner radiant HOB with a new induction 4-burner unit. But, I have to pull a 240vac line to the galley and put a 2-pole 30-amp breaker in the panel. Yes, I have 50 amp 240 split phase power to my panel. The old HOB used 110vac, so this line has to be abandoned.

The challenge is to find 10/4 marine tinned cable. I have spent two days looking with no bueno.

Any ideas of where to look?
 
Last edited:
It doesn't have to be tinned. My former house size stove/oven had no-tinned cable. When I pulled it out, it was in excellent shape after 50 years.
You could run tinned 3 wire and a separate ground wire Or you can buy tinned small battery cables.
 
I wouldn't worry about tinned, stranded marine wire. It may not be available in 10/4 cable. Just run a romex type 10/4 cable from the new panel breaker to the new stove.

Or you could buy a 10/4 extension cord which would at least give you stranded cable, but not marine tinned. But I think I would prefer solid core cable as it would not be affected much by salt air corrosion.

David

David
 
I wouldn't worry about tinned, stranded marine wire. It may not be available in 10/4 cable. Just run a romex type 10/4 cable from the new panel breaker to the new stove.

Or you could buy a 10/4 extension cord which would at least give you stranded cable, but not marine tinned. But I think I would prefer solid core cable as it would not be affected much by salt air corrosion.

The cable MUST be stranded. Solid conductor on a boat is a no-go. But as long as the ends are well sealed, non-tinned would be acceptable.
 
My induction stove top has split burner power so it takes 2 110 power cords. Ask me how I know.

True-Induction.
 
My induction stove top has split burner power so it takes 2 110 power cords. Ask me how I know.

True-Induction.

Tell me more. This would be preferred.

I’m thinking your galley might be identical in layout to mine. Our’s is a 48 MY which I believe is the same as yours minus the cockpit.
 
I have the True Induction three burner. Really when do you need four and can actually fit four pans on the stove? Ours has three burners, one large that goes up to #10 on the power scale. Then there are two smaller burners that each go up to #10 but the power is split so if I put one of the small burners on 7 the other one will only go to 3. When the big burner went out, We really had no problem just using the two until we figured out the problem.

Ok, good news bad news. I had a drop dead short in the large burner that has its own 110v power line. I called True-Induction to see if I could get a new burner. They told me they spoke with the tech guy and I needed a new control board. That did not sound right to me but $99 wasn't a bad fix for a $600 stove top. When I called to see about shipment, the nice lady said its on the way and don't worry I tore up your credit card bill. The board came in and it was simple to swap it out only it didn't work. Same short. So, I called back. Got into vmsg hell. No calls back but I got the cell number of the tech guy. Texted him on Saturday that I wanted to talk about my problem and he texted back that he couldn't deal with it on a Saturday. I waited till about Wednesday to call him again and it was like he had never heard of me before. Ok, so lets start over. He asked if I had checked the incoming power board, nope. Ok, so here goes. I pull the wires off the incoming power for that board and the cord has no short. Pull off more wires. No the incoming power board does not short. Pull the wires off the burner and there is a short across the contacts. Just like I originally figured. I call the tech guy and he says he will get it ordered for me. Then vmail hell again. Left a couple msgs. On each msg I leave I tell them you sent me the wrong board once, now I know the correct one is the burner itself. Every time I call there is a msg that says my msg is being recorded. So, two weeks later a lady calls me when I can't answer the phone and says, hey we already sent you a board weeks ago. Now I'm pissed. You say you are recording my calls and you still don't know what the heck is going on. More vmail hell. Another two weeks. Finally I get a notice that a new burner was on its way. Hey, no charge. I'm happy about that. Plugged it in and now we are back to 3. To me fair, I believe I may have overloaded that burner by doing what you are not supposed to do. I believe I left a frying pan on the burner. I can also see myself cleaning up the galley before I leave the boat. If I wiped across the controls with a pan on the burner and left the boat, it would have gotten really hot. Maybe I burned it out. My new procedure is to hit the breaker when I leave. I love the induction system. You just need the right pans and they heat so fast. Amazing. Like gas without the explosion potential. So, back to the good news bad news. The company didn't charge me on a non warranty item. They don't communicate well. I like the product and it is easy to fix.
 
What gauge is the 110V circuit currently in place? If 10 ga, you could reuse it. If the new stove is only 240V there is no need to have a neutral. You only need it if there are some 120V components, which sometimes there are. But if just 240V, 10/3 cable would be fine.


I'm of a different mind on tinned, and would definitely use it. Boat building standards require it, so why not do the job to meet current standards. It will be one less thing the next owner will look at and curse "the PO". Another way to look at it is if you hired someone to do the job, what would you expect? I'd expect a job that meets current built standards.
 
Back
Top Bottom