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Old 05-28-2020, 09:24 PM   #81
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I have the rebuilt raw water pump in place on the rebuilt port engine now, along with new belts.



Started working on the Starboard sea cock. These are Wilcox Crittenden 2" tapered cone sea cocks, thru hulls and strainer plates.





I finally received the lapping compound and grease from Spartan marine. The lapping compound I found at the auto parts store was too coarse.



The grease is very, very thick, not like any I've used in other applications. It's about the consistency of cold peanut butter. The lapping compound is very fine and requires a good stir to get the powder up into the liquid.

They are quite seized up due to lack of maintenance by previous owners. To disassemble, first I undo the nuts holding the cone in place, with the sea cock firmly mounted in a vice.



Next I rotate it 90 degrees and use aluminum bar stock as spacers and shaft protection, clamp the vice down until the cone pops out. Comes out easily this way.



Then a bath in the parts washer to remove old grease, followed by a dip into the barnacle buster to remove dead sea creatures.



Apply some of the aforementioned grease and have a very smooth action on the handle with no stuck spots. Not a bad afternoons work.

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Old 05-28-2020, 09:30 PM   #82
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I also started fabbing up a couple of hold down clamps for the forward and mid ship bilge pumps. Previously they were just sitting there loose and I want them installed securely.

I got some scrap G10 from a friend at the boat yard and set to sketching out a basic L bracket with a cutout that will fit the bilge pumps.



A hole saw in the drill press, a chop saw and spindle sander made shaping the piece easy and I had a piece that fits the pump nicely.



A little bit of epoxy, structural filler and a couple layers of cloth and I've got a bracket, will be ready after glassing the bottom side and some cleanup.

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Old 05-28-2020, 10:24 PM   #83
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Keep posting the photos and text. I enjoy watching you work!
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Old 05-29-2020, 12:04 PM   #84
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Nice work as always!
I attached a 5' extension hose to my quick drain valve, after all DD 671 will take 28 quarts SAE 30 oil.
Best quality original Wilcox seacock...they just don't make like them anymore.
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Old 05-29-2020, 09:44 PM   #85
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This afternoon after work, I commissioned the hydraulic steering. I rebuilt both helm pump in another thread and now it was time to fill and bleed the system. The older Teleflex system does not have a pressurized system, but simply vents at the highest point. The fill procedure is to rig up a reservoir at the highest point and keep fluid in the reservoir.

I used some plastic epoxy to mount a hose barb in the lid of a gallon oil jug, then zip tied it to something heavy to hold it up.



This leads to the fill/vent port.



With that rigged up, I put Dexron in the jug and let it trickle down and air bubble up. Once this stopped (after about an hour). I opened the bleed screws on the uniflow valve down near the cylinder 2 full turns as the manual says to do, this allows the helm to be turned continuously in one direction. I moved the wheel in each direction until no more air came out of the fill tube, tighten up the bleed screws and it's all set. Nice firm helm and no leaks.
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Old 06-16-2020, 01:57 PM   #86
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With the engine in place, it is time to get the cosmetics started on the exterior. Had to build a large tent to enclose the boat for that work.



Will be focusing on the hull exterior for a while.
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Old 06-16-2020, 03:20 PM   #87
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Your boat is looking a bit boxy...
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Old 06-29-2020, 01:01 PM   #88
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Progress continues on the cosmetics work. Here is as shot of the port side in the beginning of gouge, crack and tiny blister repair.



The filler product is a two part epoxy marine filler (Total Fair by Total Boat) which sands fairly easily.

I purchased a new cordless die grinder that is perfect for grinding out any defects and roughing it up for the filler application. With a 2" 40 grit Roll Lock disk it makes quick work of them, and the dished shape allows easy feathering. It's really nice working without an air line or a cord.



In this shot, I have two coats of Interlux Prime Kote applied to the starboard side and the repairs are starting to blend in and fade away under the primer. I'm really impressed with this product, it lays down thin, but flows and smooths out better than other epoxy primers I've used in the past. This is all roller applied, am not tipping the primer. Probably another week until we have top coat on the starboard side, port is a bit farther out.



We sand it smooth between coats with 220 grit (per the Interlux instructions) to eliminate any orange peel, it's a light sanding and the product sands fairly easily.

Some of the through hulls are being replaced (they were plastic) while others are being kept and left in place (bronze). Someone had used plain plastic through hulls in a couple of places and they were sun cooked, cracked and broken, will be replaced with Marelon.
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Old 06-29-2020, 01:52 PM   #89
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She's looking good!
Any vinylester resin should work.
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Old 06-29-2020, 02:00 PM   #90
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Looking good. I used a Roloc to grind the areas on my boat before we painted it. It worked really well. I used a right angle drill and it wasnít bad. I tried finding a battery powered die grinder, burned up 2 of them before I went to the Dewalt corded drill. Keep up the great work.
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Old 06-29-2020, 03:16 PM   #91
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She's looking good!
Any vinylester resin should work.
For what? I'm using all epoxy based products to maximize adhesion and minimize the chances of future blister problems with the best possible sealing.
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Old 06-29-2020, 03:21 PM   #92
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I agree on the epoxy, you donít ever want to do this again. Also donít put poly or vinylester resin on top of the epoxy. But you can put epoxy on top of them.
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Old 06-30-2020, 11:38 AM   #93
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Looking good. I used a Roloc to grind the areas on my boat before we painted it. It worked really well. I used a right angle drill and it wasnít bad. I tried finding a battery powered die grinder, burned up 2 of them before I went to the Dewalt corded drill. Keep up the great work.
The Milwaukee is working really well. Their new brushless tools are much better than the older ones with standard DC motors (I have one of their older dremel style cordless and it isn't nearly as good) . I also purchased the extended 6.0 Ah battery and it runs for a long time on a single charge and barely gets warm to the touch with this type of intermittent usage.
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Old 06-30-2020, 11:42 AM   #94
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That is good news. The battery powered one that I had would get smoking hot at the right anlge gear box. Oh well, glad yours is working well for you.
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