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Old 07-23-2020, 09:03 PM   #21
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Just got back from Crystal River. We paddled to 3 Sisters springs to check it out. Was not my favorite with all the development and boat traffic but its a Fl Spring so it was still awesome.

I have not read about IG history in a while. Totally forgot they were manufactured in Hong Kong.

I was dreaming I would cut into the core and find foam but at least I found solid wood.

I will look into Kiwi grip. Jamestown recommended Total boats non skid product.

Fractal- interesting with the white fiberglass. My gut is that this is Polyester and mat with an additive of some type that makes it white. To be safe it sounds like the epoxy is the best bet. The last thing I want to do is a repeat with all the other things I have on my to do list.

Sounds like I need nap rollers and metal roller to use in combo. Ill look into the Dove white.

I think I can handle the 3 x 5 sections. I'm going to try to finish or get close to finishing the prep work this weekend.
I'm not sure how to handle the fittings. We are living on the boat so I can't just remove them for a length of time. The stern cleats look like they are through bolted under the headliner inside. Would like to glass under without removing the cleats or removing the headliner.
Was planning on using Kings Starboard cut outs under the other fittings.

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Old 07-23-2020, 09:12 PM   #22
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I guess I am not sure what you want to use Starboard for, but it probably wonít be good in this application since almost nothing sticks to it. The epoxy bond may stick for a short time but will fail in the long, if not short, term. If you need a pre made spacer look at G10 fiberglass. Jamestown Distributers sell it. It is structural fiberglass that will bond to your new work with fiberglass. I would also raise the fuel fill in one of the photos with some G10 inserted between the filler and the deck, that way water running down the deck isnít as likely to get into your tank if the O ring fails.
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Old 07-23-2020, 09:22 PM   #23
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While I like Jamestown Distributers and I buy there frequently, they tend to push the Total Boat products heavily. Makes sense since they own the brand. But in the case of nonskid, Kiwigrip is way above anything. It is way easier to use and will last longer than any paint with nonskid particles in it. And it will cover many many imperfections and by doing so will save you untold hours of finish work prior to painting.

There is no way I would go through all the work and aggravation you are going through and not do the job properly. And by that I mean getting ALL the fittings off the deck and make the fiberglass one solid piece from side to side. You really need to get them all off or you will inevitably have leaks around them. Make it all one piece and go to Compass Marine and follow his instructions on how to bed deck fittings. He is right on!!! Use the butyl tape he sells, it is very good stuff. Sorry to make more work but if you donít do it right , you will have to redo it.
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Old 07-23-2020, 09:27 PM   #24
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As to removing the headliner, I donít know what you have but I typically cut it under the fitting and then cover the cut with a cover plate of some sort. Then you will always have access in case you need to tighten up the fitting in the future. An easy way to find where to cut the headliner is to take 2 large rare earth magnets. Put one on top of the deck and tape it down. Take the other one inside and hold it up close and it will find the one on the deck. You can then outline the fitting by moving one and the other one will follow it. You can mark the headliner where you need to cut. I put blue tape on the headliner so I can use a marker without marking on the headliner. I also use the magnets when I need to see what is on the other side of a bulkhead, tape one on one side and see where the second magnet clamps on. Works for drilling holes in the bottom or side too.
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Old 07-23-2020, 09:38 PM   #25
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One trick to extend the working time of epoxy is to mix it and then pour it into a flat tray so it isn’t as thick and won’t generate as much heat inside itself, thermal runaway. So mix small batches. Also put the tray on top of ice packs to keep the epoxy cool and it will go off slower.
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Old 07-23-2020, 11:30 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Comodave View Post
One trick to extend the working time of epoxy is to mix it and then pour it into a flat tray so it isnít as thick and wonít generate as much heat inside itself, thermal runaway. So mix small batches. Also put the tray on top of ice packs to keep the epoxy cool and it will go off slower.
+1 on both.

concentrated batch = heat = fast kick. spread it out quick means more time to cure. Great tip!

Also on the small batches. Easy to do, find the appropriate sized dixie cups or other containers, and premeasure all the batches ahead of time, mixing right as needed...
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Old 07-24-2020, 05:25 AM   #27
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Household white vinegar works as well as anything for (un cured) epoxy cleanup. Gojo or the like citrus hand cleaner to clean the epoxy off of your hands.
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Old 07-24-2020, 07:56 AM   #28
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Im not sure what your final plan is but I used Interlux, Interdeck for my final coat. It is a great product, will probably take two coats but is non slip and applies easily with a brush or roller. It is available in a couple colors. I used white which does get dirty but generally cleans up well with a hose, sometimes a little brushing in high traffic areas.

It is definitely not slippery, sort of grainy. Not hard on barefoot though.

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Old 07-24-2020, 08:23 AM   #29
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Good Tips on extending the Epoxy kick and the Magnet trick.
I can feel something through the headliner right under the where the cleats are located on the deck. Of course it is right where there is a seam in the headliner so I would need to cut two pieces of headliner right where they connect. I was hoping I could pull out the teak pieces that I left underneath the Cleats and get some new Fiberglass under them without removing them but not sure.
Most of the other deck fittings are water fills. I'm hoping I can just unscrew these pull them up a little and Fiberglass around them and rebed/screw them back into the new fiberglass.There is a larger circular deck fitting almost in the middle of the deck that I opened a few weeks ago to see what is was for because someone had silicone it closed. It does not appear to go to anything that I can see for access. Just a big hole through the deck. Looks like where you would connect a Dorad vent on a sailboat. Not sure if these are common on older Island Gyspy's or what it is for. Was going to leave it since I don't know what is for and it is not hurting anything.
I was planning on laying down 1 layer of new glass and then cutting little sections of Starboard to use under the rail supports, Water fills, and the mystery fitting. Right now there is little rectangle pieces of Teak to bridge the gap between the old teak level and the bottom of the rail support. Screw the rail support into the starboard and into the deck using some type of bedding material. There is some type of brown Marine looking caulk on the rectangles of Teak now for waterproofing the screw holes but it does not seem to have any adhesive qualities.
The water fill and mystery fitting I was thinking it would be good to leave them a little higher. Basically where they are now with the old teak under them so they are higher than the overall deck height to help prevent water intrusion.

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Old 07-24-2020, 09:58 AM   #30
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If the mystery fitting is near the stern it could be an access port to allow use of an emergency tiller. If it was such a thing it would be most likely directly above a rudder.

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Old 07-24-2020, 10:11 AM   #31
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Difficult to extend pot life of epoxy in high heat and humidity. Work like a whirling dervish. (or work at night) Have plenty of extra supplies on hand including resin, nitrile gloves, mixing cups, tongue depressors, etc,

Loosen water fill and other deck fittings before you start. The fill tube has probably been connected to the rubber fill hose for 40 years. Might not move easily with rusty clamps. It might be easier to replace the hoses.

Boatworks Today has good YouTube videos although he uses polyester resin.
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Old 07-25-2020, 05:47 PM   #32
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I'm beat....
Long day working on the deck.
Got most of the prep done though.
I had two dock neighbors that unexpectedly joined in to help. Love those guys! Lifesavers!
Tried a hand held electric planer, Belt sander, and a large floor sander. The floor sander was the ticket. It ground down the remaining scrap wood and old resin like a charm. Also gave a good clean surface. The hand held electric planer was ok but loud and slower. The Belt sander was ok too but didn't sand very evenly like they tend to do.
I discovered that the mystery port is for the emergency tiller. Good call! If you lift up our bed in the stateroom bellow there is a square fitting on our rudder that lines up. You would need to punch through the headliner but I guess if you needed it, the headliner is the least of your worries.
I filled any empty screw holes with epoxy. I used a syringe and it worked well. It will be a couple weeks until I can lay the new glass so I wanted to keep the water out in the meantime.
Love the Boat works Today videos. I will try cutting the pieces and numbering ahead of time like he did.

Hitting the pool with a cold !



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Old 07-25-2020, 06:06 PM   #33
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Looks great. But I still recommend getting all the fittings off the deck you are doing so they wonít leak when you are done.
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Old 07-25-2020, 07:44 PM   #34
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Sounds like you make some great progress! Boat works today is excellent. He’s really good and does a great job of explaining things.

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Old 07-25-2020, 09:14 PM   #35
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I'm going to respectfully disagree w.r.t. epoxy and mat, at least in part.

It is true that the binder doesn't dissolve in epoxy as it does in other resins. But, there is relatively little binder and the epoxy does hold it in suspension and eventually in the film. The epoxy can wet out the mat just fine. And, when properly wetted out, there isn't a problem with adhesion. If something failed, my guess would be some type of surface contamination, failure to degloss, air bubble, or saturation problem, etc.

Where it does matter is that, without the binder dissolved the matt stays more sheet like. This might make it more workable in some cases, but more often it makes it harder to get it into nooks and cranies, around sharp edges and small bends, etc. So, if one is doing things other than relatively flat sheets or gentle bends, other resins may be better and prevent the glass from having a mind of its own and fighting you.

If epoxy adheres better to the substrate, and the matt stiffness isn't a concern, all other things being equal, epoxy may be the best choice, even with matt.

Of course, other resins are cheaper, may adhere to the substrate just as well, and will break down the binder making the matt much, much more workable

Just my 2 cents...
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Old 07-27-2020, 01:38 PM   #36
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https://epoxylink.com/
Great source for epoxy. Most confusing crazy website ever. His stuff is awesome, and no blush or bubbles.
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Old 07-28-2020, 08:15 PM   #37
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Interesting thread. 1708 stitchmat is my go-to material of choice. Super strong and quick layup. Bi-axial takes bends and complex shapes really well. Also doesn't fall apart when cut. Can be used with polyester, vinylester and epoxy resins. Laminates to about 1/16" per layer.


Epoxy can be used with chopped mat but doesn't allow the mat to achieve its best properties.


My choice for your project would have been polyester resin except for the fact that holes have been filled with epoxy. Never use poly over epoxy. If you can acquire vinylester you would have the best of both. Less toxic than traditional epoxy, almost the same adhesion and water imperviousness, more economical than epoxy but compatible with both other resins.
Best cleanup for epoxy - white vinegar followed by soap and water.


I would like to post about the newer plant based epoxies but have no experience with them.
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Old 07-28-2020, 09:04 PM   #38
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U.S. Composites out of Florida sells epoxy at about half the cost of West System, the 635 is almost as good as West.

Probably used 30 gallons of the stuff restoring mine.

17, 18 oz cloth 1 layer is fine, I like to pour out the epoxy, lay the cloth, and use a finned roller. The less you mess with it, the fewer blisters.

Work at night, in the sun epoxy can exotherm to the point it will self ignite.

Lots of good advice here! Have fun, and please wear a respirator and do not clean epoxy off your skin with a solvent, ever. Let it dry.
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Old 07-28-2020, 09:45 PM   #39
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U.S. Composites out of Florida sells epoxy at about half the cost of West System, the 635 is almost as good as West.

Probably used 30 gallons of the stuff restoring mine.

17, 18 oz cloth 1 layer is fine, I like to pour out the epoxy, lay the cloth, and use a finned roller. The less you mess with it, the fewer blisters.

Work at night, in the sun epoxy can exotherm to the point it will self ignite.

Lots of good advice here! Have fun, and please wear a respirator and do not clean epoxy off your skin with a solvent, ever. Let it dry.
Better yet, donít get the epoxy on your skin to begin with.
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Old 07-30-2020, 04:24 PM   #40
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As an IG enthusiast I feel duty bound to point out that the Island Gypsy's of that era are not from Taiwanese boat yards , they were built in Hong Kong under the Kong & Halvorsen name.
Andy, I picked up this comment in your recent post having to do with teak. I am always watching for fellow-IG owners. Haven't found many, but nice to see your comment.

We have a 32' 1994 and have for 6 seasons. Her home is on Lake Michigan in the US. She has 3400 hrs on a single FL135. She was not well cared for by previous owners so I've rebuild all the windows and am constantly chasing leaks. I think the teak decks are in pretty good shape, though there are 2 almost-soft spots which I watch carefully.

Do know when the last IG's were produced and where?

George Lambrides (gbrides@umich.edu)
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