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Old 07-14-2020, 10:30 PM   #21
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Quote:
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Long, long ago, I worked at a shop that built contemporary furniture with laminate and lots of contact adhesive. We had a couple of guys that ended up im the hospital because the shop didn’t have proper ventilation. It wasn’t a great job but I learned a lot of good woodworking skills.
I could see that happening and can say the stuff I used was super toxic.
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Old 07-15-2020, 10:49 AM   #22
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I just put in a small cork floor and used a not inexpensive water based contact cement they recommended. First time I’ve trusted the new fangled low VOC cement. I’d use it again. Don’t know if it’s recommended for veneers yet. Traditional CC is nasty and dangerous stuff. It’s flammable and the potential for fire and explosions is real. I’ve used a gallons and gallons of it over the years and I’m not even a commercial guy.

I used it in a small v-berth to put up a headliner and even with windows and hatches open it wasn’t enough. Wore a respirator where my face was necessarily right next to the carpet, but that was not enough. Ran out of goo and luckily walked over to the local marine store. When I got there, I started telling the owner how the project was going. He just told me to sit down and made me sit there another 20 minutes, cause I was slurring my words enough he was about to call an ambulance, but after the walk I came round quick enough. Luckily I was an idiot before I started, so no long term effects could be noted. For about the last 5 years I’ve been losing most of my sense of smell. I can no longer judge when solvent concentrations in the air are too strong. Truth is, the low VOC products work now. It’s really not worth exposing yourself to this stuff at all now that effective alternatives exist. I can’t even imagine the long term effects of using this stuff professionally.
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Old 07-15-2020, 01:04 PM   #23
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Thanks, I've been shopping for veneer

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I went with the raw backing as I felt it would have better adhesion. My logic was, it would have better gripping power to the grains then if I went with a backed piece and introduce a barrier of some sort...could be way off base.
Thanks, I've been shopping for veneer and there are lots of choices.
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Old 07-15-2020, 08:10 PM   #24
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Nice Job

Thanks for the incentive.!! I've Got a 84' 38 conv and going to update this winter!!
Great Pics. The old gal is all original and I've had her since 98' Definitely a project.
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Old 07-17-2020, 11:33 AM   #25
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Really great stuff, Carl! I envy your woodworking skills and am glad my boat's PO updated some of the interior before me.

I just realized that without a lower helm, you lose the stbd door. Good idea to move the electrical panel.
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Old 08-07-2020, 02:04 PM   #26
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Update to project

Happy Friday all,

Thought I would give a quick update on project.

We have been sealing up the wood preparing for many coats and sanding of varnish. Love the color and feel she is getting back to her glory days.

Have a great weekend and make sure to follow along on YouTube @MVBABAYAGA if that’s your thing, we would really appreciate it. Tuesday we drop an episode on comparing Epifanes to Totalboat!

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCq1...cjiSGElC-UGILw
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Old 08-07-2020, 02:28 PM   #27
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Looks fantastic. Great work.
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Old 09-23-2020, 09:51 AM   #28
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Update

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We are still working on the salon varnishing and getting ready to do counter tops. One thing we can all relate to is this project has taken so much longer than anticipated, but it is what it is!

Since it has been months and months of sanding and working the outside of our girl she has been a bit neglected to say the least, then add the local fires and ash and it was a disaster. So, we decided to take a day off from the work and clean her up a bit.

Here are some shots of her cleaned with and without her window coverings. We normally run window shades/screens on the outside during the summer but since the front needs to be redone I put on her winter coat. We love how just a simple piece of canvas can make her look happy and fresh.

We will be doing an update with the interior project in a few weeks.

Thanks for looking and reading and happy safe boating my friends!
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Old 09-23-2020, 10:55 AM   #29
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I admire folks that can work with wood and have carpentry skills. Dang that project is great.......
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Old 09-23-2020, 11:25 AM   #30
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It is looking very nice.
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Old 09-27-2020, 03:55 PM   #31
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How are the aft sliding doors attached? I am having trouble figuring out kind of hardware needs to go on the bottom
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Old 09-27-2020, 05:40 PM   #32
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Here are some shots from FlyWright. My channel is 1.25" wide with a 1" high density plastic strip from a plastics store.
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Old 09-27-2020, 06:13 PM   #33
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See FlyWright's photo's, mine are identical but I do not have the luxury of plastic, so I have to do the lift, push method with my foot. I'll snap some pics tomorrow and post them for you.
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Old 09-27-2020, 06:15 PM   #34
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FlyWright, do you doors slide easier than original?

Quote:
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Here are some shots from FlyWright. My channel is 1.25" wide with a 1" high density plastic strip from a plastics store.
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Old 09-27-2020, 07:11 PM   #35
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You betcha! Pineapple Girl gave me a section years ago and it was great.Some types are not UV protected but at $1/ft, it's easy to replace every 5-8 years.

All it takes is an occasional shot of WD-40 and a paper towel to keep them running smooth. It's so essential to door operation, I carry a spare can of WD-40 just in case I run out.
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Old 09-27-2020, 09:36 PM   #36
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Haha perfect, adding it to the list!

Thanks buddy


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You betcha! Pineapple Girl gave me a section years ago and it was great.Some types are not UV protected but at $1/ft, it's easy to replace every 5-8 years.

All it takes is an occasional shot of WD-40 and a paper towel to keep them running smooth. It's so essential to door operation, I carry a spare can of WD-40 just in case I run out.
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Old 09-28-2020, 04:37 PM   #37
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I should have added that when they are cleaned and lubed with the high molecular plastic strips, it's an easy two finger slide open and closed. It's simple to wipe them down every couple months to keep them smoothly operating.
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Old 09-28-2020, 06:45 PM   #38
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Quote:
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I should have added that when they are cleaned and lubed with the high molecular plastic strips, it's an easy two finger slide open and closed. It's simple to wipe them down every couple months to keep them smoothly operating.


Al,

Since they slide so easily, what do you do to keep them from banging open and closed when at anchor or motoring? Mine tend to drag a bit and I’ve come to rely on the drag to keep them from slamming open and closed.
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Old 09-28-2020, 06:55 PM   #39
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We used HDMW plastic as the slider under a door I built on a previous boat. I had a pin that I could insert to keep it open and a latch to keep it closed. There is a fitting that a part flips over to hold a door closed, don’t remember the name of it right now, CRS kicking in...

Edit. Found a Perko Sliding Window Stop on Jamestown web site. To keep it open.
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Old 09-29-2020, 10:11 AM   #40
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Izerwaren's catalog has a number of door catch options.

Products

(click the "Door Holders/Door Stays" section on the left, as there doesn't seem to be a direct URL to it)

The slider on the aft door of our EB47 uses something similar to the L-shaped hook catch 31.714. The starboard door at the helm uses the same sort of thing but in a straight orientation. Just a small clip goes on the door itself. You have to press the latch to release it.
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