Persistent Water in forward bilge

[STB]

I also noted that the starboard prop shaft stuffing box was leaking quite a bit, so I tightened that baby up for now. They are going to get re-stuffed in a couple of weeks with some better material.

You may know this, but, just in case, if these are conventional stuffing boxes, they should leak a little at the slip. Depending upon who you ask, the packing material and the condition of the shaft, you want a drip every few seconds to few minutes.

Some can be adjusted, sometimes, so they don't leak at all at the slip, but over tightening them runs the risk over overheating them underway, eating the packing sooner, making the drip worse, and possibly even scoring the shaft, preventing a good seal without shredding packing later.

 

[DBoat]

Warning!

... and a gallon of 100% biodegradable Parish Orange Blossom Natural Citrus Solvent.

*WARNING!*
@FlyWright: I looked up the SDS (Safety Data Sheet) for the Parish Orange Blossom Natural Citrus Solvent. I would be really careful if you use this again in an enclosed space(engine room) and on the water.

The SDS says the following:
Health:
-Eye Irritation, Category 1
-Skin Irritation, Category 2
-Skin Sensitization, Category 1
-Aspiration Hazard, Category 1

Environmental:
-Chronic Hazards to the Aquatic Environment, Category 2
-Acute Hazards to the Aquatic Environment, Category 1

Physical:
-Flammable Liquids, Category 3

Their website says that they changed the formulation, so maybe this wasn't true when you used it a long time ago, but they said the basic ingredients are still the same.

I'm sure you were careful to suck all of it up in your shop vac but for myself I would be worried about residuals leaking out into my marina. Hope this info helps...

Simple Green probably won't be as effective, but it is much safer around humans, and aquatic life in lakes and oceans according to its SDS.

 

[FlyWright]

Thanks for posting that. Simple Green sounds like a better solution...(pun intended).

 

[Knot Salted]

Hi David,

I have the same issue with my 34 Californian and I've just kind of learned to deal with it.
I'm interested in a solution as well. I've actually been known to take a shop vac to it when I get frustrated enough. I believe the water comes in through the chain locker.

Same here on my 34 LRC. Changed bilge pump to a narrow horizontile type the gets the level a bit lower. Not solved though.
I just lightly bleach it once or twice a season and odor is not much issue
That sea flow dry bilge pump is interesting

 

[Nocanvas]

shower sump leak ?

 

[kthoennes]

I'm in freshwater so it's really not a big deal. No smells. I'm saving my boat $$ for other projects!

I'm in freshwater too but our stagnant water in the bilge still gets pretty skunky. I run the bilge pumps manually until they suck dry but that residue still gets pretty gross.

 

[Tranquillity III]

The forward bilge was the low spot for my '38 Californian and it also always had a little water that the forward pump could not pick up. Sources were the anchor well, any shaft seal dripping would run forward from the rear and the forward AC condensate drained into the bilge. We were in both fresh and salt water but it never got really smelly. I would pour some simple green and fresh water down there occasionally to flush out.

 

[FlyWright]

I measured my residual water in the fwd hull this week with a 1 gallon bucket. The amount the pump cannot remove was only 1.25 US gal.

I use a 1 gallon milk jug cut as a bailer to clear the residual occasionally so it doesn't get a stench. Never really noticed a smell as a problem on my 34.

Perhaps the Mainship 37 leaves much more residual water in the bilge compared to the 34 LRC. Have you ever bailed and measured its quantity?

 

[fgarriso]

We have a forward 12vdc high flow blower that is installed just below the chain locker, and draws from a dorade vent. That creates an air flow through the bilge, and back to the laseratte. That's just enough to keep all of the bilges fresh and dry. No bilge pump ever keeps everything completely dry. There is always some back flow.

 

[DCDC]

DIY dry bilge system:

https://lifeempirically.com/2018/03/12/build-your-own-diy-arid-bilge-or-dry-bilge-system/

https://panbo.com/a-dry-bilge-for-50/

 

[psneeld]

We have a forward 12vdc high flow blower that is installed just below the chain locker, and draws from a dorade vent. That creates an air flow through the bilge, and back to the laseratte. That's just enough to keep all of the bilges fresh and dry. No bilge pump ever keeps everything completely dry. There is always some back flow.

Using a diaphragm pump pretty much eliminates all but drops of backflow you get from centrifugal bilge pumps.

Thus the concept of dry bilge systems.

The drops evaporate as long as you don't have a steady flow of water in the bilge.

I didn't believe it till I rigged mine....now glad I did.

 

[DBoat]

DIY dry bilge system:

https://lifeempirically.com/2018/03/12/build-your-own-diy-arid-bilge-or-dry-bilge-system/

https://panbo.com/a-dry-bilge-for-50/

Gonna Build this!

 

[psneeld]

Gonna Build this!

I did, it worked as advertised.

 

[ALASKAN]

One of the first things I got after my boat, was one of those shop vac type heads that fits on a regular bucket. I figure, I need a bucket on the boat usually anyways, and the vacuum part is small enough to stash somewhere out of the way. Not a huge savings in space but I felt pretty clever. I remember on an old boat I used to work on we were always chasing the shop vac around, there never seemed to be a good spot for it. Tight lines and smooth sailing!