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Old 10-10-2017, 12:49 AM   #41
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...What I do need help with is stripping all the yellow, nasty, hard as nails epoxy/varnish combo that's on a majority of the pieces we didn't get sanded and oiled already. Any recommendations for removing the old stuff?
Do NOT sand it off. Get a heat gun, not expensive, and good metal scraper, one of those 3 surface ones that do curves as well as flats. Use the heat gun to blister and soften the varnish, then use the scraper at the right angle to remove the varnish.Work in small sections. You`ll soon get the hang of it. Try it on something else that doesn`t matter, even a painted surface,anywhere, at home, Mother in Laws front door, etc.
You will have to sand at the end of the process before refinishing, but not too much. Overcomes the cost and dangers of strippers, easy and quick once you get it working.
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Old 10-10-2017, 12:57 AM   #42
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Hi, thank you for sharing your boat projekt TF.

You have a good recipe (beer and pizza) to get the enthusiasm to work with good attitudes. Can you say what stuffed pizza to get the same energy as you do?

Everything good for you for refurbishment and boating.


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Old 10-10-2017, 04:36 AM   #43
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I agree the heat gun and scraper worked well for me. I found using a drywall putty knife of appropriate size worked well for me. Usually takes it back to fresh clean wood. It does not take long at all to get the feel for it. It goes fairly quickly.
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Old 10-22-2017, 09:30 PM   #44
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Haven't had a lot of time lately. But did get a decent amount of brightwork cleaned and rough sanded, ready for fine sand and oil this week. Going to follow the sage advice and purchase a heat gun soon to hit the coatings that still exist.

Also had the new propellers installed on Wednesday last, and all zincs inspected.
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Old 10-22-2017, 09:42 PM   #45
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Looking really good. But it's a lot of work.
I'm in the process of countersinking the exposed screws in the teak trim below the rail cap and plugging them. I got about half done before the weather changed here. Just enough wood to pull it off.
Wow, those props . . . That's amazing.
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Old 10-22-2017, 10:16 PM   #46
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Looking really good. But it's a lot of work.
I'm in the process of countersinking the exposed screws in the teak trim below the rail cap and plugging them. I got about half done before the weather changed here. Just enough wood to pull it off.
Wow, those props . . . That's amazing.
After being up close and personal with my teak for the last two days...i feel I could go broke just trying to countersink, plug, apply seal, and repair the metal edging on it. I applaud you sir for attempting it!

Yeah, those props...lol
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Old 10-22-2017, 11:03 PM   #47
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After being up close and personal with my teak for the last two days...i feel I could go broke just trying to countersink, plug, apply seal, and repair the metal edging on it. I applaud you sir for attempting it!

Yeah, those props...lol
Is that metal edging on the gunwale cap? I wonder if PO added it, Never seen it before on an LRC.

The countersinking is pretty quick. setting and trimming the teak plugs takes a little more time. I bought a cheap high speed drill, 3/8" countersink and cordless drill/driver from Harbor Freight for the boat and they work great for that purpose. So many exposed screws holding trim on these boats. Especially good for lifting the rail stanchions to oil the railing under them and anything else around water. My Dewalt tools go nowhere near the boat, ever.
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Old 10-23-2017, 06:20 AM   #48
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Is that metal edging on the gunwale cap? I wonder if PO added it, Never seen it before on an LRC.

The countersinking is pretty quick. setting and trimming the teak plugs takes a little more time. I bought a cheap high speed drill, 3/8" countersink and cordless drill/driver from Harbor Freight for the boat and they work great for that purpose. So many exposed screws holding trim on these boats. Especially good for lifting the rail stanchions to oil the railing under them and anything else around water. My Dewalt tools go nowhere near the boat, ever.
Chicken!
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Old 10-23-2017, 01:21 PM   #49
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It is metal edging, and now that I know it probably want original I won't feel as bag for removing it! Haven't decided yet if I will, but it's good to know it's an option.

All of my power tools are automotive and in a storage unit in Maine...therefore everything I buy HAS to be for the boat and bought knowing they are going to get destroyed...

What do you gentlemen do about sealing the edges between the trim and the hull itself? Any special sealant or will any sealant do ?
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Old 10-23-2017, 01:51 PM   #50
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Yeah, pretty sure it's aftermarket. PO was probably attempting to protect the teak cap edge from piling rubs. The stern is pretty much the widest point of the boat and does get the occasional creosote rub while docking at older docks.

For screws and stanchions, A sail boater neighbor put me onto Black, GE silicon II and I've used it ever since. According to him, has to be black (I don't know if it matters) and I do like the look where it's visible. And of course, not everybody carries "Black". Ace Hardware here does, but not Lowes and Home Depot.

Some people don't like silicon, I've had excellent success with it. But you do have to use masking tape and mask a line, if the edge is going to be visible to get a neat look. For screws, just inject it into the hole and run the screw back in.
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Old 10-23-2017, 04:39 PM   #51
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Sorry, silicone is crap. Not for boats... cue RT...
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Old 10-23-2017, 07:16 PM   #52
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I have found silicone to bring about mold and hold it. It also has a habit of peeling off on some woods that have natural oils or sap. This is from experience. I'm sure there are some other pitfalls. I don't think there is a 100% solution. Just have to try things until you find what you like and can deal with.
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Old 10-23-2017, 08:58 PM   #53
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Does anyone happen to have any information on chocks?

I'm used to the style we have on these vessels as being called Panama Chocks...but can only find websites with way huge sizes and made of metals. My Google fu is failing me, but I don't know what else to call them besides 'Panama Chocks'...
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Old 10-23-2017, 09:00 PM   #54
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Try 'closed chocks'
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Old 10-23-2017, 11:14 PM   #55
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Once you put silicone on fiberglass, it is almost impossible to completely remove it. Then you have a problem getting something else to stick to the glass. I am currently replacing the portholes in my boat and the original ports were put on with silicone. We have scraped, tried acetone, MEK and everything else we could think of, we finally used sandpaper to remove the last bit of the silicone. Since we are getting ready to paint the hull, sanding isn't too bad. But if you are not going to paint, you probably don't want to sand your gel coat...
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