Head Maintenance - Toilet Cleaning?

[Raaf]

Trawlites,

Trying to figure out the beat way to clean the toilet bowl. Despite serious scrubbing, the toilet bowl is just getting getting darker and darker and I'm not able to make any progress. It has a saltwater flow after each flush.

I have a plastic holding tank and I want to make sure I don't use anything too harsh that will damage the system or potentially harm the environment. That said, I can get it pumped out pretty quickly after cleaning - I just don't know what to use. ...and ideally I'd like something that can be used on a regular basis to actually keep it clean.

What do you recommend to get this as clean as possible?

Thank you,

Raaf

 

[backinblue]

I'm sure Peggie will weigh in soon, which will be much more valuable than anything I could suggest. Stay tuned!

 

[rgano]

Aside from what Peggy will tell you about cleaning the brown stain, one of the best things for keeping the system generally unclogged with "urine stone" and other nasties in the long run is to convert it to freshwater flush.

 

[HeadMistress]

What have you tried using to scrub the bowl? No point in my recommending anything you've already tried.



--Peggie

 

[backinblue]

Good advice Rich and I agree. Since that would solve the stain removal process if you replace the toilet, you then just need to be careful with what you use for cleaning the toilet and what treatment you add to the holding tank. There are marine-specific toilet cleaners that are different than what you might normally use at home.

 

[Raaf]

Peggie,

I've tried scrubbing it really hard with an abrasive brush, then added some Dawn, then I just went nuts and tried some Softscrub but was worried about the chemicals interacting with the plumbing system. None of those things made any progress. It was bright white about a year ago.

And yes, I have considered switching to freshwater, but I have other battles to fight in the near term.

Looking forward to any suggestions you've got!

Thanks,

Raaf

 

[FlyWright]

If it's porcelain, can you use a pumice stone?

 

[Bacchus]

I'm no chemist but will venture a guess that your problem is a buildup that is discoloring. I doubt you will be able to scrub it clean.
When I have torn apart heads for rebuilding, even in fresh water, I find some build up. I dont know if it was a result of hard water or from urine but the best/only way I found to remove mine was chemically. I used CLR meant for calcium, lime, rust and let it soak the parts and it at least broke it up so it could be flushed or scraped and flushed.
I'd suggest you dry the bowl and test an area to see if it was making a difference. If it works you might be better off removing the bowl and doing the job ashore where you can flush with plenty of water. CLR is meant for household use and I'd wear PPE but it shouldn't affect plastic or it would not work well w PVC Piping at home.

 

[O C Diver]

If the bowl is porcelain, I'm wondering if you have worn through the glaze surface? I replaced my bowls a few years ago to get rid of the kid height seating. The new bowls have a very nice shiny glaze that I'm taking great effort to maintain as it's so simple to clean.

For me, a third bowl of water with a tablespoon of Tide laundry detergent and a tablespoon of Sodium Percarbonate, let sit for 30 minutes, and then some light toilet bowl brush action, is all it takes.

Ted

 

[HeadMistress]

Try CLR or Barkeepers Friend. I used to use a little Comet on a wet sponge or paper towel. I used to keep it under the sink along with disposable gloves just for this purpose. None of those will damage the porcelain and it's not enough for the holding tank to notice.

If none of the above works, some chemical or mineral in the flush water may have permanently stained the porcelain. If so, try wiping it down with undiluted bleach on a sponge or paper towel. Whatever you use, WIPE, don't spray or squirt.

--Peggie

 

[psneeld]

I am with Ted.

A hard to clean, usually slick surface that now is hard if not impossible to clean and gets dirty fast often means surface porosity....and that is hard to fix.

It must usually be polished or sealed to get back it's stain resistance.

 

[Bacchus]

I am with Ted.

A hard to clean, usually slick surface that now is hard if not impossible to clean and gets dirty fast often means surface porosity....and that is hard to fix.

It must usually be polished or sealed to get back it's stain resistance.

Agree except it could be a porous coating on an otherwise OK substrate.
All I suggested was to find out which it is instead of ASS-UMING and tossing / replacing a bowl or head... what's to lose trying something like CLR?

 

[Raaf]

I think from what you have all shared, my next best bet is Peggie's recommendation - CLR and Barkeepers Friends. I will try those asap and report back.

That said, I also think the protective glaze on the bowl might be shot so the porosity is going to make getting anything off it very difficult.

Thanks all!

-- Raaf

 

[Raaf]

All,

Quick update - Barkeeper's friend and a lot of elbow grease got rid of 90% of the stain. Appreciate the advice Peggie.

Next weekend, I will probably try undiluted bleach on a sponge to see if that gets the rest.

Thanks again,

Raaf

 

[Benchmark]

standing vinegar, whink or sewclean are acid based which may remove the stains. What is causing the stain? is it coastal water laden with tannins? if do fresh water is your only long term solution.

 

[KnottyGuy]

I second Bar Keepers Friend cleanser. For most applications it is a miracle in a can.

 

[HeadMistress]

standing vinegar, whink or sewclean are acid based which may remove the stains.

Never leave vinegar standing in the bowl. It will seep through the joker valve, and when soft rubber is left to sit in vinegar, it swells and distorts. SewClean dissolves sea water mineral buildup, it's not a stain remover. I've never heard of Whink,


--Peggie

 

[Raduran]

Try CLR or Barkeepers Friend. I used to use a little Comet on a wet sponge or paper towel. I used to keep it under the sink along with disposable gloves just for this purpose. None of those will damage the porcelain and it's not enough for the holding tank to notice.

If none of the above works, some chemical or mineral in the flush water may have permanently stained the porcelain. If so, try wiping it down with undiluted bleach on a sponge or paper towel. Whatever you use, WIPE, don't spray or squirt.

--Peggie

Peggie,
First, bought your book, recommended for everyone.
Thanks for mentioning the Bartenders Friend. I have used it on glass shower stalls, where the calcium in the water is the highest in the country (Colorado River). Better than ClR and you don't have to wear gloves. Very safe.


Recommend using the liquid form, less abrasive. Usually available at TrueValue or ACE hardware stores.


Again, thanks for writing that book.

 

[Capt Ray]

Toilet Stains...

Be honest with yourself, "Is the staining the only problem you have?"
"Is the bowl SIZE satisfactory for you?" We like saving money. BUT:

In OUR case, a 21 year old head, having been rebuilt once already, after the 2nd failure. "Let's get a new head!" "Let's upgrade to a full sized US standard-size porcelain bowl!" etc.

You know where this is going!

Sometimes, getting an upgrade / new replacement is the best option!

A rebuild to a 21 year old head meant the head still looked 21 years old!

In contrast, buying a new head (better than the old one!) brought us JOY for something we each use more than once a day. Did I say a larger bowl was great?

...

We too love (#1) Peggie's book, BTW.

We too love (#2) only flushing with fresh water. There are all kinds of improvements associated with that.

But, just so you know, to get there you cannot simply hook up your fresh water system where the sea water intake is/was. If you research that, you'll see why it is totally not OK to do that... if you have what we have for a head system, at least.

We shut "off" the sea water flush supply valve, and simply have a (replaceable) "Red Solo Cup" standing by in the sink to add fresh water to other business going to the holding tank.

That, and occasional Thetford [brand] "enzyme" holding tank treatment (liquid not powder in our experience works better) keeps us happy with this system... and odor free.

.........

Of course if staining really is the only problem you have, you can also choose to simply live with the stains.

(Hell, if your are really cheap, try painting it! <wink> Coming from where I grew up, I bet you wouldn't be the first to try that!) LOL

Decisions! Decisions!

Good Luck

 

[ttompkins]

I have used this on my boat and at home. First, convert to fresh water flush. Until you do this you are pissing in the wind, no pun intended. I have had very good luck using a fine grit wet/dry sandpaper to get rid of any variety of stains. Yes it really works. Give this a try. But do yourself a favor and convert to fresh water flushing. Much cleaner and no nasty smells.

 

[backinblue]

+1 for fresh water flushing, however as Peggie pointed out in another thread, turning off the salt water and adding freshwater to the bowl is NOT the way to convert. Make the leap and buy a freshwater toilet.