Salon headliner

[Brisyboy]

Hi everyone and good luck and fortune for the new year,

Probably the last remaining major task on my list is the fly bridge sagging deck. The weight of the mast has caused two or three floor/roof beams to sag- probably about 2cm. Consequently, or coincidentally I have a leak into the saloon immediately below below the mast.

To my mind the remedy is to raise the roof back up and sister the sagging beams with metal or laminated beams to regain the shape, strengthen the mast support plate (whatever it is) , remove the cactus teak, a couple of layers of glass mat and kiwi grip. All over red rover.

Underneath not so "easy"- the headlining is the issue. It is really neatly done - sewn into strips and it appears to be attached to each roof/floor beam.

Has anyone ever had to remove the headlining and if so how is it attached to the beams with tacks or at each seam is there some sort of bow arrangement?

Before this can be accessed, I need to remove the central overhead grab rail and pelmets of each side and at the rear.

Any advice: on the mast step or removing the headlining would be appreciated - pictures would be even better and receive the monthly Brown Feather award

 

[mvweebles]

Can't comment on headliner except to say I'd find a decent auto upholstery shop. There's a knack to stuff like this otherwise there's bound to have a wrinkle.

Camber in my fiberglsss hard top extension over aft deck had been lost over 50 years of supporting a dinghy. Reversing it was surprisingly difficult. Temptation is to jack up the roof then sister something in. However, there's nothing stopping the sole from being jacked down instead of roof up. In the end, ended up cutting relief cuts in the hard top to allow camber, then installed a curved SS T-beam (about 3" x 1" x 1/4" thick metal) across the span. I also had the hard top extended aft so that serves as the union between the new section and old, though top is seamless as it was re-fiberglassed. Between that and new fiberglass, pretty sure it's good to go for a very, very long time.

 

[Cigatoo]

I ended up using this, purchased through Home Depot. Need to google the following (W96WP House of Fara). It could be considered a hard plastic but it is very soft. Just score with a utility knife and snap to cut. Just like drywall. Easily carved with a knife for any odd shapes. Very easy to work with. I screwed it in to the fiberglass overhead and covered the screws with teak battens. A friend did the same job later and just used Velcro. Why didn’t I think of that? ��

 

[Datenight]

To make the headliner on the Green boat I first made panels out of 1/4" Luan plywood to fit between the deck beams. Since the salon was wider than 8' I had to attach an extension to each panel. I did this a-la-Bolger. A scab was laid over the two panel pieces and epoxied together. Monel 1/2" staples held the pieces until the epoxy cured.

The panels then got two coats of sealer and two coats of urethane to seal them. The headliner material was perforated vinyl with a 1/4" foam backing. Even though I did the engine room with 2" Soundown I was looking for additional sound reduction.

The material was attached to the panels with 3M spray adhesive and 1/4" monel staples. Next heavy duty Velcro was attached to the panels and overhead. The velcro did not hold well at the ends of some panels so I used screws with plastic caps

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/fasc...OEjhvy6Wwm4LamwrdrAHfkonjRnFaAOxoCC7YQAvD_BwE

from West Marine. Probably many other places to get the caps. The photos show the panels installed before screwing the ends.

Don't know why the velcro did not hold at the ends. It was incredibly difficult to remove the panels from about 16" from the ends.

Rob