Island Gypsy

sunvale · 02-29-2012, 03:55 PM

Just received the survey on the boat I purchased and one of the things listed were the condition of the through hull pet cocks. The maine thing was that they are stiff and need freeing. What kind of process is this. Does the boat have to be out of the water or in water and can they be freed with lube, (what kind)

I can use all sorts of spring back to the water information. So please send it on to me.

Peter

Gulf Comanche · 02-29-2012, 05:42 PM

I don't think I'd mess around with old, stuck seacocks with the boat in the water.

RT Firefly · 02-29-2012, 06:02 PM

Greetings,
Conngratulations on your new baby Mr. sunvale. Do NOT, under any circumstances try to service your seacocks while afloat unless there is a grease fitting on the side of the barrel (not too likely).
The process I have used in the past is to haul, remove the plug from the barrel, lap the mating surfaces with valve grinding compound (fine) if necessary, clean off he grinding compond very well, re-grease with a waterproof grease and reassemble.
Now, that being said, I made the possible mistake of using wheel bearing grease and I've been told the metallic compounds in the wheel bearing grease can react with the bronze and cause galvanic corrosion. Not sure about that one but waterproof grease is the stuff to use.

** While you're at it, do ALL your seacocks both above and below your water line.

-- Edited by RT Firefly on Wednesday 29th of February 2012 07:04:40 PM

Datenight · 02-29-2012, 07:07 PM

What RT said. Light on the grinding compound clean carefully and grease afterward.*

I once had a seacock I could not get to move smoothly. A close look showed a nick in the end plate. Cleaned it up with a file, greased and reassembled. It has worked great ever since.*

Rob

37' Sedan

skipperdude · 02-29-2012, 07:08 PM

I concur with mr RT.

The second thought would be to have them replaced.

This would be a discussion regarding the conditions of the* sale.

What size are the seacocks. Large ones can be expensive.

SD

HopCar · 02-29-2012, 08:30 PM

It depends on what type of sea cock they are. If they are the tapered cone type they need to be disassembled, cleaned and polished as previously described.
If they are ball valve type sea cocks, try forcing them with a handle extension. Ball valve type sea cocks have teflon seals and they just need to be exersized a few times a year. If you can't force them with a handle extension or the handle breaks, replace them.
If they are just ball valves screwed onto thru-hull fittings, don't try to force them or you might break the thru-hull fitting. Replace them with real sea cocks with mounting flanges.
If they are frozen open, you should haul soon and deal with them.

Baggiolini · 02-29-2012, 08:31 PM

When I bought Mahalo the starboard seacock had a broken handle, near as I could figure it was about half open so I had it replaced. I think it was about $600. When a blown cutlass bearing necessitated another haul I had the port replaced since it was hard to operate. Didnt measure but i would swear i get more water flow. While she was on the hard, I lubed the hell out of all the rest of them from both sides and opened and closed them about 100 times. They all operate effortlessly since.

Have the seller buy you a new one!

Sailor of Fortune · 03-01-2012, 04:06 AM

Why not try exersizing the handle to try and free it up? In your post you seem to indicate that they work but are just stiff.

**koliver** · 03-01-2012, 08:04 AM

When you get your next survey, teh surveyor should be checking your seacocks. Better to have exercised them yourself so that you know they work, than to have a "surveyor's note"discussiong their stuck condition.

sunvale · 03-01-2012, 08:17 AM

Thanks for all the info. I was pretty sure the boat had to be out of the water to work the sea cocks. They are not stuck, just a little stiff according to the surveyor. I will give the GIBBS a try as soon as I can figure out what GIBBS stands for and where I can get some. Mail order or Web order?
Thanks

sunvale · 03-01-2012, 08:27 AM

Thanks Carl. I'll get me some of it.

Art · 03-01-2012, 09:37 AM

Quote:

Old Stone wrote:
Any auto or marine store. GIBBS is the name of the spray. Again, just look for a pink can and it will have a big GIBBS on it. Best lube - freeer there is.....sorry to be confusing.

Hi Carl - I've been using Liquid Wrench and WD-40 for years.* Just went to NAPA.com; they*don't seem to*list Gibbs; but, I found where to purchase off the web.* In your opinion...*how would you compare Liquid Wrench or WD-40 and Gibbs??*- Thanks, Art

PS: I'm a religious "luber" of everything/anything that needs to move... freely or otherwise!* Example - On Morse controls and their*cables I every year pull covers off at both helm stations and lube to the max-degree all mechanical portions as well as working the lube into cables by repeatedly moving control arms while lubing the exposed*cable protruding outside encasements.* Same thing on cable ends at motors.* Man, those trany and throttle controls work very freely.* They were stiff when we purchased and it took three or four quick-repeat Liquid wrench and WD-40 applications to free them up.* Im anxious to try Gibbs! *

*

*

sunvale · 03-01-2012, 02:08 PM

The boat is still in the cradle and I will take care of it in April. I just hate to drive all the way around Lk. Michigan to work on the boat for an hour. But at $120 per hour to do 5 cocks each 1 hour is a bit steep. Might as well learn the things I need to know to save $$$

Peter

sunvale · 03-01-2012, 02:20 PM

Lk. Michigan can have some treacherous water during storms. The waves are real close together and can cause all sorts of problems.

Peter

RT Firefly · 03-01-2012, 02:27 PM

Greetings,
Ahhh....Mr. sunvale, the boat is still on the hard. THAT changes the whole perspective. By all means service your seacocks in the spring! I would still check out what I heard about wheel bearing grease not being acceptable (true or not?) but the grease SHOULD be waterproof. Surely one of the learned members can reccomend the best stuff.

sunvale · 03-01-2012, 02:35 PM

"on the hard". have to learn all the proper terms or be expelled from this forum?

Peter

RT Firefly · 03-01-2012, 04:07 PM

Greetings,
Mr. sunvale. Most certainly NOT necessary to know any terminology! Questions have been answered involving thing-a-ma-jigs, do-dads, watch-a-macallits and even WTF's! Heck, I didn't even know what a Jimpson hanger was before I got on this board. It's all about learning at least one new thing every day. Sorry for any confusion I may have caused.

Gulf Comanche · 03-01-2012, 04:58 PM

Well, as long as it on the hard, you might also want to service the carbon vibrator. Go to the tool rental place and get a Jimpson hanger, attach it to the Johnson rod and gently remove. Then, unscrew the carbon vibrator and shake the contents into the trash. Replace all parts in reverse order, return the Jimpson hanger, and you're good to go.
Best of luck w/ the new boat.
Mike
Baton Rouge

dwhatty · 03-01-2012, 05:32 PM

Peter:

My apologies for the remarks you are getting from some members or the board. Forgive them, for they know (not?) what they do. It must be second cocktail time wherever they are.

You've got a "new" boat of a different type than you are accustomed to and are understandably looking for helpful information. Hopefully you will find it here once you winnow the wheat from the chaff (if you haven't already figured that out).

Gulf Comanche · 03-01-2012, 06:14 PM

Well, yes, 2nd cocktail time and the wise ass comes out. Nothing like the thrill and apprehension of a new ride, and nothing like bad bs just for the hell of it. I meant what I said though, best luck w/ the new boat Peter. Forget about the carbon vibrator, GM quit making those on '64 GTO's.
Mike