Island Gypsy

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Recently purchased a Island Gypsy 44 and am looking for other owners who are willing to share information and advise. We decided to become full time live aboard. Our boat is very comfortable and spacious, having spent many years cruising sail boats, am somewhat nervous about boat handling characters in open seas.

Any information would be great.




I can tell you the 4 day trip down the lake from Green bay, WI to Winthrop Harbor, IL was pretty uneventful. Trawlers don't like beam seas, or rather their crews don't lol, but stabilizers, or a steadying sail help alot. heading into the waves, Gypsies are heavy, if you are fully loaded with fuel and water, 3-4 footers will get you some spray through the hawseholes, but thats not something that should bother you, they will handle double that easily before upsetting the ride too much. Following seas will make course tracking a challenge. The boat itself will handle seas that you and your crew will not wish to. Anything with some age has the possibility of stiring up crud in the tanks and clogging filters. If the weather is crappy... stay in port :)
 
I g 32

Guys, I'm looking at an '86 island gypsy 32 this weekend. It sounds too good to be true. Only asking around 28k. The guy says everything works. The pics look like it's pretty clean. He does say the bottom was painted 8-9 years ago so it could probably use some bottom paint. Assuming hull is in good condition and only a small amount of repair, how much should a bottom paint job cost? It has steel fuel tanks and and minimal electronics. Auto pilot but not a gps type and a fish finder. It has a Single Lehman and a bow thruster. It is the Europa style and I think it has teak decks. What do I need to look out for?
Thanks for any suggestions. I've been kicking tires for years and I'm about ready to make a move.
 
Guys, I'm looking at an '86 island gypsy 32 this weekend. It sounds too good to be true. Only asking around 28k. The guy says everything works. The pics look like it's pretty clean. He does say the bottom was painted 8-9 years ago so it could probably use some bottom paint. Assuming hull is in good condition and only a small amount of repair, how much should a bottom paint job cost? It has steel fuel tanks and and minimal electronics. Auto pilot but not a gps type and a fish finder. It has a Single Lehman and a bow thruster. It is the Europa style and I think it has teak decks. What do I need to look out for?
Thanks for any suggestions. I've been kicking tires for years and I'm about ready to make a move.

This should probably be a stand alone new post, and if Billy Wick could post a photo or two I am sure you would get some good pieces of advice from the august IG owners out there, the forum's premier group of members. :rolleyes:
 
Guys, I'm looking at an '86 island gypsy 32 this weekend. It sounds too good to be true. Only asking around 28k. The guy says everything works. The pics look like it's pretty clean. He does say the bottom was painted 8-9 years ago so it could probably use some bottom paint. Assuming hull is in good condition and only a small amount of repair, how much should a bottom paint job cost? It has steel fuel tanks and and minimal electronics. Auto pilot but not a gps type and a fish finder. It has a Single Lehman and a bow thruster. It is the Europa style and I think it has teak decks. What do I need to look out for?
Thanks for any suggestions. I've been kicking tires for years and I'm about ready to make a move.

In general trawlers of that age have similar problems some of the most expensive and/or most work to repair are; wet deck cores, rusting fuel tanks and wet stringers. I do my own bottom paint work so I can’t tell you what is a reasonable price for one. The electronics isn’t a real problem in my opinion because I usually replace them all anyway. I have twin Lehmans and they are great engines if they are maintained. American Diesel is the go to resource for them. I really don’t like teak decks. Particularly older boats where the teak decks are screwed down, they will leak. I just refinished my teak sundeck and it was really hard work because you are on your knees. Get a good surveyor. And good luck, hope it works out great.
 
Guys, I'm looking at an '86 island gypsy 32 this weekend. It sounds too good to be true. Only asking around 28k. The guy says everything works. The pics look like it's pretty clean. He does say the bottom was painted 8-9 years ago so it could probably use some bottom paint. Assuming hull is in good condition and only a small amount of repair, how much should a bottom paint job cost? It has steel fuel tanks and and minimal electronics. Auto pilot but not a gps type and a fish finder. It has a Single Lehman and a bow thruster. It is the Europa style and I think it has teak decks. What do I need to look out for?
Thanks for any suggestions. I've been kicking tires for years and I'm about ready to make a move.
The IG32 is a nice boat that uses all of its 32ft well.
Things to look at:
Teak deck condition, like lost bungs,worn planks,failing sealant, leakage underneath.
Steel fuel tank and water tanks prone to rust, tops esp if decks are leaky.
Instrumentation sounds old, in need of update.
Windows, if wood, esp fwd, prone to leaks and rot. Check window drain holes,inside and out.
Bulkhead integrity/attachment
No idea of a/f cost, but most boatyards here have an all up price based on length.
Check if raw water pump on Lehman is updated American Diesel version. Probably not replaced.Lehmans run high hours if looked after.
A good survey is essential. Big spend item is removing teak decks and replacing with painted f/glass.
Pics or a link to a sales advert would help.
 
I'm looking at possibly buying a 1987 40 foot Island Gypsy sedan in the next few weeks, pending a survey of course. I too have seen that review online about IGs and the metal throughhulls embedded in fiberglass, tank construction, and lead soldering in the water tank on board. Was that only true for certain years? in 1987 were they a solid boat? Intent is to live aboard and a few times a year go slightly offshore for fishing or diving. My former boat was a 50 year old Cal 29 sailboat that turned into way more project than I could keep up with. This time I'm looking for something where I can buy it today, move in it Monday, and be relatively problem free which is a relative term when living on the water I already know.
 
I'm looking at possibly buying a 1987 40 foot Island Gypsy sedan in the next few weeks, pending a survey of course. I too have seen that review online about IGs and the metal throughhulls embedded in fiberglass, tank construction, and lead soldering in the water tank on board. Was that only true for certain years? in 1987 were they a solid boat? Intent is to live aboard and a few times a year go slightly offshore for fishing or diving. My former boat was a 50 year old Cal 29 sailboat that turned into way more project than I could keep up with. This time I'm looking for something where I can buy it today, move in it Monday, and be relatively problem free which is a relative term when living on the water I already know.
An IG 40? Unfortunately you probably need to read this if you haven`t already:https://www.yachtsurvey.com/boatreviews/IslandGypsy40.htm.
Pascoe, no longer with us, had a mixed reputation. I had a 1981 IG36 Europa for 10 years, main issues were aging leaking teak decks, tired wooden windows and hull osmosis. Overall they were well built, as they age, maintenance becomes as important as initial build. My steel water tanks and fuel tanks were still serviceable in 2020 when we sold. Hopefully the "real" deck under the teak may use foam as the sandwich, making any deck fix much easier. Of course a thorough survey is required, both general and mechanical.
 
An IG 40? Unfortunately you probably need to read this if you haven`t already:https://www.yachtsurvey.com/boatreviews/IslandGypsy40.htm.
Pascoe, no longer with us, had a mixed reputation. I had a 1981 IG36 Europa for 10 years, main issues were aging leaking teak decks, tired wooden windows and hull osmosis. Overall they were well built, as they age, maintenance becomes as important as initial build. My steel water tanks and fuel tanks were still serviceable in 2020 when we sold. Hopefully the "real" deck under the teak may use foam as the sandwich, making any deck fix much easier. Of course a thorough survey is required, both general and mechanical.

Yes I've seen that review, which is why I question buying one at all. Based on that review, unless someone here can refute it, I intend to look more for hatteras boats, etc..
 
Yes I've seen that review, which is why I question buying one at all. Based on that review, unless someone here can refute it, I intend to look more for Hatteras boats, etc..
Having never been on a 1987 40, I certainly can`t refute it. Somehow, to my eye, that IG40 looked different to the usual Europa IGs, and it certainly does not need all that power. "jgtrucking" who occasionally posts, has a 44, perhaps of similar vintage, he might merit a PM enquiry.
I doubt the hull design produced by Harvey Halvorsen was much different to other IGs or their Halvorsen predecessors. Pascoe`s complaint seems to be it`s not FD. Nor the Integrity brand, which essentially used IG hull moulds; I went on to buy an Integrity 386, a refinement of the IG36 I owned, it`s an excellent sea boat.
Good luck with the search.
 
I just sold my 87 IG and regret having done so. Only reason was the repair crew at the marina that could not do a job without screwing something else up. I never had a problem with my Ig that was not initiated by the Marina techs. Not sure why I use the term TECHS, but the new owner is on his way doing the Loop right now. Go for the IG, you won't regret it
 
I just sold my 87 IG and regret having done so. Only reason was the repair crew at the marina that could not do a job without screwing something else up. I never had a problem with my Ig that was not initiated by the Marina techs. Not sure why I use the term TECHS, but the new owner is on his way doing the Loop right now. Go for the IG, you won't regret it
Was yours a 40 footer? the through hulls, lead in water tanks, and rusty steel fuel tanks are my big concerns..I've been a diesel mechanic for my company for 20 years, learned through experience, wasn't one when I started, but using excavators, dozers, dump trucks, etc..for 20 years I've learned a bunch. metal tanks, especially on john deeres, get a lot of rust in tanks that clogs filters constantly. I don't want to buy a problem. I know buying a boat is buying a problem to start with, but i want the least amount of extra problems as possible.
 
Drummer 79,unless the location is geographically difficult at least look at it. My tanks were ok at 39 years, these may have been renewed,if not they`ll likely have some signs of aging, you could ask without even visiting.
Any 35yo boat will have issues, depends more on maintenance than original build. I`d be far more worried about osmosis. My IG36 hull was a good inch thick, maybe to accommodate the traditional IG osmosis :). 1987 may have been early days for Jiang Hua as the builder and explain build issues. IG was an early adopter of mainland China building,possibly late 70s; the boats were finished in HK where IG was located before shipment here, or USA, maybe elsewhere.
Whether the Cats will happily tolerate trawler speed use I don`t know, a question you could raise separately in the Engine/Mechanical forum of TF
 
I'm not a metallurgist but from what I understand, iron responds to the environment differently than steel. At my university one of the buildings was clad in iron and the story was that ones the surface had a rust patina on it that stopped the corrosion. Just like aluminum, anodizing stoops the corrosion on that stuff. I would not be deterred by the idea of having a boat with iron tanks. Keep the tanks full.
 
I'm not a metallurgist but from what I understand, iron responds to the environment differently than steel. At my university one of the buildings was clad in iron and the story was that ones the surface had a rust patina on it that stopped the corrosion. Just like aluminum, anodizing stoops the corrosion on that stuff. I would not be deterred by the idea of having a boat with iron tanks. Keep the tanks full.
For my experience, IG tank rust was usually external, on the tops, from leaks through the decks due to failing teak, myriad screw penetrations,and failed sealant.
In Australia, maybe elsewhere, there is a steel sheet product, used in construction, designed to rust its surface, and no more after that. It`s called Corten Steel, the rusted surface is regarded as decorative and desirable. Rust has come a long way!
 
I have a slightly older ig 44, built in Hong Kong, not China. While she is not perfect, i wouldnt pay alot of attention to that review, focus on your survey.
 
For my experience, IG tank rust was usually external, on the tops, from leaks through the decks due to failing teak, myriad screw penetrations,and failed sealant.
In Australia, maybe elsewhere, there is a steel sheet product, used in construction, designed to rust its surface, and no more after that. It`s called Corten Steel, the rusted surface is regarded as decorative and desirable. Rust has come a long way!

That is were I found a bit of surface rust on 2 of 4 tanks. A little wire wheel and POR 15 and all was OK
 
We have had more extensive tank rust issues caused by porous teak decks. We replaced the decks about 11 years ago, so the rust has stabilised, though I fear at some point it will need a remedial fix. I am not looking forward to that.

I agree with the consensus here that with older boats the linage is less important than the way the boat has been looked after.

Which is a better buy, a neglected 32'GB or a well looked after CH34?
 
We have had more extensive tank rust issues caused by porous teak decks. We replaced the decks about 11 years ago, so the rust has stabilized, though I fear at some point it will need a remedial fix. I am not looking forward to that.

I agree with the consensus here that with older boats the linage is less important than the way the boat has been looked after...
Andy,at 40years+ and continuing,you`ve had good service from your steel tanks.
 
It's a chore to slide the tanks out to reach the tops, but I did it and ground the surface rust of and applied a coat of POR 15 and paint after that. So if you have a leak in the deck or around the fuel filler tubes it will not harm the tanks tops
 
Island gypsy

I am looking at a 36 island gypsy. It has teak decks,what is an approximate cost to remove and fiberglass?
 
I am looking at a 36 island gypsy. It has teak decks,what is an approximate cost to remove and fiberglass?

Welcome aboard. DIY or paying a yard to do the work? DIY I would guess about $2K in materials. Having a yard do it maybe $10K to $15K.
 
I am looking at a 36 island gypsy. It has teak decks,what is an approximate cost to remove and fiberglass?
I spent about $26-27K AUD, but that included fresh teak on the side decks and cockpit on my IG36 Europa. Longest part of the job.
2 layers of painted f/glass fwd of the step up to the bow, one layer laid everywhere else. You need it for stiffness, and sealing.There was a lot of fairing before glassing.
The state of the deck below the existing teak is an issue. The sandwich material in my deck was foam, which doesn`t rot. If yours is wood and affected, the cost rises ++. 2 small squares of teak just fwd of the step up, were soft wet and rotten,and replaced with foam.
Some IGs from about 1981 had foam sandwich decks. You may be able to visualize yours around the aft lazarrette hatch edges.
 

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