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Old 05-20-2020, 02:11 AM   #41
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Very nice Bruce, Congratulation on a great buy, always liked that style of boat, the two little Cummins are great motors, should be a very economical boat, let us know if you get to cruise up my way.
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Old 05-20-2020, 08:30 PM   #42
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BTW, this may help someone, we found a rails attachment ss dinghy rack on ebay, $173 delivered, from Gold Coast. Bought one, liked it, bought another. All fitted and secure, on the FB. Takes a kayak or 3 SUPs.


Bruce any chance of a photo?
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Old 05-20-2020, 09:52 PM   #43
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[/B]

Bruce any chance of a photo?
This might help.https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SUP-Kaya...72.m2749.l2649
You can narrow the size of the space between the vertical of the rack and the railing by rotating the clamp. I don`t have a pic of them installed,but we now have 2, one either side of the FB going aft. Bought one, decided it works, so bought another.
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Old 05-20-2020, 10:00 PM   #44
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Very nice Bruce, Congratulation on a great buy, always liked that style of boat, the two little Cummins are great motors, should be a very economical boat, let us know if you get to cruise up my way.
They are good engines, no aftercoolers. The 4 blade props look a bit small, it exceeded an expected 2650 at survey, about 2750, but I think within limits.

BTW,We`ve got one of your model Riv on the marina, owners love it but may be selling.
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Old 05-22-2020, 01:40 AM   #45
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The Italian made Ceredi snap davit set arrived today via Austpost. Committed to Ceredi as their pads are already glued to the dinghy.The brackets which sit in the pads on the dinghy, do they stay there all the time? They come with split pin type keepers, looks like they stay, they won`t play nicely with the hull when the dinghy is in the water on the towline, boat on a mooring.
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Old 05-22-2020, 02:02 AM   #46
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Bruce, it sounds like those are similar to the Weaver type, (yeah - almost identical - I checked online) and although there are split pins holding the dinghy loops onto the dinghy-mounted pads, they are not meant to be removed while in use. Ideally they should be positioned such as to not touch the hull of the mother vessel. However, from memory, even if they do protrude a bit, it does not appear to be an issue, because you tend to dock against the back edge of the platform and lift the dink up to engage the platform clips as soon as you touch home base, so to speak, if you are going to lift it out. If letting it float on the end of its painter, the dink tends to stay away from the boat anyway.

PS. I don't advise leaving it clipped on, but floating free alongside the platform, (other than long enough to remove the motor) as the jerking of the wave movement would be a challenge for the glued on mounts.
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Old 05-22-2020, 08:02 AM   #47
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......PS. I don't advise leaving it clipped on, but floating free alongside the platform, (other than long enough to remove the motor) as the jerking of the wave movement would be a challenge for the glued on mounts.
Good point Peter, we inherited a RIB with our recently acquired boat, equipped with weaver SDís (dinghy mounted pads are also giving way), left it attached to the duckboard and floating, wind gets up in the middle of the night, dinghy bucks around rattling the metal mounts, sending shockwaves into the aft cabin.
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Old 05-22-2020, 12:54 PM   #48
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After 3 years searching we settled on a 2005 Integrity 386. The hull is based on the old(unsold) Island Gypsy 36/ Halvorsen moulds. The extra 2ft 6" is from incorporating the swimstep into the hull, generally the boat resembles the IG36 it is based on. The interior is redesigned, updated, and way more accommodating. The bow cabin is generous, there is a 2 bunk second cabin(or cupboard) Unlike most current Integrity models, it has a flybridge. There is almost no exterior teak.

Power is 2 210hp Cummins BTs with 698 hours at survey, genset is an Onan 7KW EQD with 135 hours recorded. The engine room is more spacious than the big brother Integrity 426(think IG40) we didn`t buy. There is a bowthruster. Near 80 hours were added by the delivery guys who brought it up from Melbourne over 6 days at a stately 8.75 knots. They took refuge from the weather twice and say it handled rough conditions well.Carries 750L of fuel and 750L of water.

Previously a Sydney boat ("Joy of Kathryn"),it was sold to Melbourne,now back in Sydney.There are things to correct over time but nothing vital.We will probably keep the current name.

Still looking forward to our first cruise, waiting on restrictions easing.
I tried attaching some pics, from the same file as the new avatar, but they were "invalid".
Bruce
We have a 496ce, and love it. Some of the early Integrities have Gel coat issues that are hard repair.

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Old 05-22-2020, 03:42 PM   #49
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Best Wishes with the Integrity

The helm and some other features look quite similar to the IG Raised Pilot House.
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Old 05-22-2020, 06:39 PM   #50
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On the lookout for an Integrity 34+. No many in the US. Wonít be going until 2025 but getting a lot of info.
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Old 05-22-2020, 09:12 PM   #51
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Bruce
We have a 496ce, and love it. Some of the early Integrities have Gel coat issues that are hard repair.

Steve
Steve,I was aware of issues around 2005-2006 with 386 and 426 hulls. What year is your 496ce?
After agreeing price, I approached survey as a 50/50 prospect of proceeding, willing to walk again. We opened a number of the well spread small blisters I expected. We scraped off the antifoul and found a thin white layer which could be a/f primer, or gelcoat, soft and easily removed. Under that was raw apparently original fibreglass, with no sign of water intrusion, and no nasty osmotic fluid. I decided, with surveyor advice, the safe course is soda blast and 2-3 layers of epoxy, the alternative was leave it as was. An 06 426 I was buying but rejected for other reasons, had been treated that way, with osmosis found only in the transom, which I`m guessing is formed in a separate mould and laminated on. I hope there is no nasty surprise when we sodablast.
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Old 05-24-2020, 04:00 PM   #52
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Bruce

Our 496 ce is a 2007, I bought it new from the dealer Maryland in 2013. We had a few small blisters on the transom as well. But we had a number of small cracks and crazing that we had repaired when we had Her commissioned. More have appeared over the years but we are diligently repairing them. Doors have been an issue, we are replacing them this year . We located 48 degrees north and remain in the water year round with a quick haul out for zincs and bottom wash and have not seen any new blisters. I can speak only for the 496, they were a well thought out design, systems are simply laid out and serviceable. Watch for leaky windows and doors other than that for the right price they are worth the trouble.

Steve

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Steve,I was aware of issues around 2005-2006 with 386 and 426 hulls. What year is your 496ce?
After agreeing price, I approached survey as a 50/50 prospect of proceeding, willing to walk again. We opened a number of the well spread small blisters I expected. We scraped off the antifoul and found a thin white layer which could be a/f primer, or gelcoat, soft and easily removed. Under that was raw apparently original fibreglass, with no sign of water intrusion, and no nasty osmotic fluid. I decided, with surveyor advice, the safe course is soda blast and 2-3 layers of epoxy, the alternative was leave it as was. An 06 426 I was buying but rejected for other reasons, had been treated that way, with osmosis found only in the transom, which I`m guessing is formed in a separate mould and laminated on. I hope there is no nasty surprise when we sodablast.
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Old 05-24-2020, 08:30 PM   #53
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Bruce, Congrats on a great looking boat! I've always thought the Halvorsen/Integrity line would make a great next/final boat for me...if I ever bought another one. Very similar size and layout with much improved creature comforts and more modern interior styling than my 1977 34 LRC Californian. I'm a big fan of the sedan layout with galley up. Twins and a BT must be a luxury! Now you have absolutely NO EXCUSE for banging a dock or lock wall!

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Andy, I`m coming round to "dinghy on swimstep". Frame and crane on FB could cost $8K and you need a trained monkey onboard to climb on the frame and deal with the dinghy attachments. Our new/secondhand dinghy from an abandoned project has dinghy brackets already glued on, so I just need the brackets to fix to the swimstep.
I've debated the same dink issues that you are on a similarly sized boat. My current and best-for-me solution involves swimstep stowage with a fixed transom OB mount and a Garhauer Lifting Davit rated for 150 lbs (68 kg). My empty dink weighs 115 lbs and my 15HP Merc weighs 77 lbs. If you'd like pics, let me know.

I started with a 2HP Honda and a smaller dink rated for 8HP. It was a slow ride so I added the 15HP Merc. That was too much power for that small dink (and a WET ride at planing speed) and at 77 lbs, I needed a davit for safe motor lifting. So, I did what any red blooded male would do...I got a bigger dink and a davit!

Sorry to hear about your Covid restrictions. I just returned from a 65 day cruise of the California Delta. On 3/18, I was heading to the boat for a 3-day fishing trip. It turned out to be 65 days afloat during a global pandemic! Fortunately, there were no boating restrictions here and I found that I pretty much had the waters to myself for the first 45 days. It was heaven! Excepting the three nights the first week at my marina to provision and prepare following lock down notification, I only spent one night on a dock during the trip. It was two glorious months of anchoring and dink rides!

Now, after 65 days afloat during the global pandemic, I know I've found the right combination of cost, ease of launch, and dink utility. Two weeks ago I added a $200 Garmin Striker4 Portable Fishfinder for the dink. It's been great seeing the depth underway and great fun using it to troll for striped bass at the prime of the season in the Delta.

I've also become rather adept (knock wood) at towing on a short tow (1/2 boat length) in the benign conditions of the CA Delta. It's nice to have the option to tow safely vs. lifting it all aboard. Whenever I traverse 2+ ft waters, I hoist her on the step to alleviate the worry or wet dink.

I hope you are able to enjoy your fine vessel as much as anyone here on TF. She looks incredibly well suited for your style of cruising. If you ever decide to take up diving or fishing, you won't need to buy another boat!

Cheers from the Kalifornia Delta!
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Old 05-24-2020, 10:21 PM   #54
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Thanks Al, much appreciated. It`s exciting after 10 years of the old boat and 3 yrs looking to find this one.Our Covid boating restrictions are over for now but stopped us for quite some time. We`ve docked for fuel and reverse parked without incident so far. I just received the snap davit kit, now to fit it them. Reckon the 2 edge fixings could be coach screws, there looks to be a solid edge to the swim platform without access underneath to through bolt it?

Our dinghy motor is a 12kg Merc 3.3 which is easily handled. The new 2.6M inflatable is 30kg.

Going into winter, low pressure systems both sides of the country,strong winds blowing the oysters off the rocks, huge surf, 10M waves offshore, not great boat weather for now.

You had a great Covid cruise on the Delta! Safer than almost anyone I`d guess. Thanks for the tips.
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Old 05-24-2020, 10:44 PM   #55
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Talking

Brucie, I forgot to mention that I admire that your helm is of the "proper" side of your vessel!!! So often, you mates down south get it 'wrong' in both land and sea vessels!

Is it as weird for you to drive a boat from stbd as to drive a car from port?

When the bad wx approaches in a low pressure system like the one approaching now, it's a CW rotation to you, right...not CCW (as viewed from above...I know you're a lawyer!)? How'd you get that wrong, too?

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Old 05-24-2020, 11:01 PM   #56
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I can drive a car just as badly from the left or right. But it works better if I sit on the side where the controls are.. Wonder if last year`s 30 days of car hire in Europe will be the last?
Our first powerboat, Australian designed by Clem Masters, had a port helm; the IG and the Integrity are unsurprisingly both stbd. Easier to dock on the helm side, other than that doesn`t matter a bit.
Where did I get cw/ccw wrong "TOO"? I was chatting with my nephew in Perth, they`re getting hammered by 2 lows meeting up, we`ve just got the one. What difference does rotation make?(I`m going to regret asking that).
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Old 05-25-2020, 12:13 PM   #57
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Just ribbing you b/c in the southern hemisphere, low pressure circulation is CW but for us 'Northerners", it's CCW. It's not your fault...I blame Coriolis for his Coriolis effect..

Beautiful boat. Anxiously aaiting for the rest of the pics....ER, galley, head, etc.
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Old 06-14-2020, 11:29 PM   #58
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Yesterday I unscrewed the purely decorative 3 x 1 ft teak strips adjacent to the nav light backing plate(also teak). They do nothing except sit there deteriorating. Eventually I`ll remove them entirely when I have to do some painting.
Stbd side unscrewed ok. Port side the top 2 unscrewed ok, but the 3rd/bottom one, water drained from the screw holes. Uh oh. The screws go into a backing panel I can see from inside the locker with doors under the FB helm area. I think the cause is a leak at the horn attachment to the side of the FB which the Surveyor noted,but obviously it`s been leaking long enough to cause the equivalent of a wet core.Next job is to pull the horns off and do some sealing. Not sure how to dry it out, if I remove the horns and leave the holes to air I`ll get more water in from rain. Ah, the joys of boats.
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Old 06-14-2020, 11:38 PM   #59
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Maybe inside the cabinet drill a series of holes and find the wet core. Then tap the holes so you can screw in some fittings and hook a manifold to the holes. Use a shop vac to suck out the moisture. Then fill the holes.
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Old 06-14-2020, 11:44 PM   #60
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Good thought. I`ll look at it again,it takes time to think how to try dealing with it.
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