Originally Posted by Brisyboy
Sadly I have found wood rot in a window frame - the large triangular one forward on the port side - if it was a car it would be the equivalent of the quarter vent or between the A and B pillar.
Before I tackle this type of problem I like to visualise what the process will be, for those members who have done such a repair, have you any detailed photos you could share?
I am curious about the frame - it is faired really neatly into the side of the coach house - so neatly that its almost as if there is a fibreglass glass moulding that is part of the side of the coach house and the frame attaches to this. All windows on our boat are like this. After scraping some paint I can see that there are screws that hold the outer frame to the coach house.
Any help would be appreciated, esp close up photos as I assume most windows of the era would be built the same way.
I have repaired that problem a number of times, and depending on how much damage there is, it isn't that difficult a process. Not knowing the specifics of your situation, I can only tell you what I have done.
1. Dremel out all rot until you get to solid wood. Even if you have to take out all the wood in an area, that may be fine as long as the balance of the frame stays in place.
2. Saturate the wood with epoxy thinned with MEK to the consistency of water.
3. Depending on how deep the removed wood is you may need to partially fill the void with another piece of wood epoxied into place. What you are trying to do here is reduce the amount and thickness of epoxy you need to lay into the repair area to complete the job.
4. Mix epoxy with West System 410 fairing filler to the consistency of peanut butter - thick enough that it won't sag on a vertical surface. Carefully trowel the epoxy into the repair area. A bit of art may be needed here to match the profile of the frame, but at this stage you aren't looking for perfection, just as careful a match as you can make. You're going to go through this process a couple more times, so don't worry if it is a bit ugly.
5. Sand to start shaping the repair, knocking down areas that are too high and ignoring those that are too low.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 as many times as you need to in order to get the repaired profile where you need it.
Mind you, you can replace this kind of damage all with wood if you like. The technique above works best when you are talking about rot that is within a piece and avoids having to replace the entire piece.
Hope that helps...