Teak Bungs {plugs}
- Thread starter KEVMAR
- Start date
The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Chances are they are 3/8" plugs. When we replace plugs on Hobo, I pull the old screw, re-drill/re-cut the hole, replace the screw with a 3/4" by #8 (with a little dab of caulk) and then install the new plug with epoxy.
I use a couple of different plug cutters and also a couple of different countersinks. For cutting the plugs, a drill press works best IMHO.
I use a couple of different plug cutters and also a couple of different countersinks. For cutting the plugs, a drill press works best IMHO.
Attachments
HopCar
Guru
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2011
- Messages
- 5,308
- Vessel Name
- Possum
- Vessel Make
- Ellis 28
Larry is probably right but I'd measure the hole to be sure.
cappy208
Guru
Two techniques that make all the difference.
Use the drill press. Use the same type wood to make bungs. Drill the entire board of bungs, then don't snap out the bungs with a screwdriver. This messes up the edge of the bungs. Cut the bungs whole. Meaning use a bandsaw and cut the entire board off en masse with all the bungs being cut off at once.
A high quality bung cutter will give a slightly tapered fit when drilled home in the board. Make sure you set the stops up correctly to get a uniform bung. Makes a whole lot easier to have tight bungs.
DON'T sand the wood smooth. Keep the 'sawn' finish. This way you can see the cut of the bung as you grab it, slather it with glue and plug the hole. The 'saw cut' is at right angles to the grain. Make sure the bung is inserted with the grain parallel to the board. Nothing more obvious than a bung inserted sideways! After the bungs are dried, use the chisel to trim them. Don't try to trim them off in one swipe. Use two (or more) swipes, to determine how the grain is running. It is a 50% chance to get it right on the first swipe. Half the times the grain will chip off and go deeper into the bung, giving a lousy finish.
Also, make sure you buy a 'bung cutter' Not a tenon cutter. Bung cutters are shorter and provide a minimal (but distinct) taper.
A tenon cutter provides NO taper, which does not 'jamb' into the hole for a tight fit.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=501
here's a video of the technique, but the Japanese saw is foreign to me.
Use the drill press. Use the same type wood to make bungs. Drill the entire board of bungs, then don't snap out the bungs with a screwdriver. This messes up the edge of the bungs. Cut the bungs whole. Meaning use a bandsaw and cut the entire board off en masse with all the bungs being cut off at once.
A high quality bung cutter will give a slightly tapered fit when drilled home in the board. Make sure you set the stops up correctly to get a uniform bung. Makes a whole lot easier to have tight bungs.
DON'T sand the wood smooth. Keep the 'sawn' finish. This way you can see the cut of the bung as you grab it, slather it with glue and plug the hole. The 'saw cut' is at right angles to the grain. Make sure the bung is inserted with the grain parallel to the board. Nothing more obvious than a bung inserted sideways! After the bungs are dried, use the chisel to trim them. Don't try to trim them off in one swipe. Use two (or more) swipes, to determine how the grain is running. It is a 50% chance to get it right on the first swipe. Half the times the grain will chip off and go deeper into the bung, giving a lousy finish.
Also, make sure you buy a 'bung cutter' Not a tenon cutter. Bung cutters are shorter and provide a minimal (but distinct) taper.
A tenon cutter provides NO taper, which does not 'jamb' into the hole for a tight fit.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=501
here's a video of the technique, but the Japanese saw is foreign to me.
Last edited:
Phil Fill
Guru
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2007
- Messages
- 2,919
- Location
- US
- Vessel Name
- Eagle
- Vessel Make
- Roughwater 58 pilot house
If a bung is pushed upon or missing then the screw also needs replacing. Why cut them you can buy cheap at most marine stores. Also check the calking as the boards have probably moved. Bung pop up for a reason.
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2008
- Messages
- 13,731
- Location
- California Delta
- Vessel Name
- FlyWright
- Vessel Make
- 1977 Marshall Californian 34 LRC
I buy my mahogany plugs at a woodworker store like Rockler. They're relatively cheap.
mike66
Guru
Try widgetco.com. They have "deck plugs" in teak with a nice chamfer on one end. My original bung are 3/8". I replaced them with 1/2" to get a nice clean hole. Also as posted before, where the deck was thin, I deepened the hole with either a countersink or forstner bit and fiiled with epoxy, no screw.
FF
Guru
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2007
- Messages
- 22,552
Not cheap , but if you do a load of plugs they make saws with all the teeth on one side.
This allows the saw to be laid on the work surface and flush cut the plug smooth.
These are found as Japanese woodworking tools
With thin decks little or no sanding is desirable.
A plug maker is the best deal for creating teak plugs ,as with some scrounging good dense old growth teak can be found.
Look in the dumpster or in your wood pile , esp if its going into an external deck.
The new "bag O plugs " is OK for inside.
This allows the saw to be laid on the work surface and flush cut the plug smooth.
These are found as Japanese woodworking tools
With thin decks little or no sanding is desirable.
A plug maker is the best deal for creating teak plugs ,as with some scrounging good dense old growth teak can be found.
Look in the dumpster or in your wood pile , esp if its going into an external deck.
The new "bag O plugs " is OK for inside.
Last edited:
