I echo that regionally or even locally you will run across different types of moorings. Those of us posting RE the Pacific Northwest are typically dealing with park mooring buoys, that typically have a chain topped with a large ring passing through them. It is possible for a strong crewmember (in no wind/current with a well piloted boat) to hook the chain loop with a conventional boat hook, pull up the loop, and pass a line through. In practice this can be scary, you have a large boat drifting off station, with the master unable to see the buoy, and the crewmember unable to physically signal because both hands are full trying to hold on to the hook...
We carry the Grab n Go, hook n moor, and conventional boat hooks. None always seem to work 100%, but we always get onto the aforementioned moorings with one of them, depending on the exact style/conditions. Our hook n moor is relatively new to us, and has only been used 5-6 times so far.
But the OP asked about dealing with the high bow. NWD's bow is approximately 7 ft off the water at the bow. Amidships it is closer to 3.5 or 4 ft. (I'll have to go measure, now!)
All of our hooks are long enough to deploy from the high bow, but it tends to be a little more fiddly depending on conditions. I think people overthink picking up the mooring at the tip of the bow - yes, that's where it rides after you're done, but put the mooring where it is best for the master and crew to pick up.
Single handing the past two weekends picking up moorings (ie the buoys noted above) I primarily tried getting the mooring alongside just forward of amidships, and had my hook of choice rigged and ready to go. That allowed me to have a bow line ready that I could get onto the mooring, then tie off to one of my bow cleats.
Making sure to have the mooring (buoy) alongside instead of at the tip of the bow allows you to be down closer to it, and make it less likely for the boat to drift off to the other side of the mooring. You can move fore and aft easily to capture a mooring, but if it goes off to the other side, now your line and the pulpit/anchor are all fouled. Depending on visibility from the helm/flybridge, keeping the buoy off to the side past the bow also gives the master a chance to observe the mooring directly, and better position/maneuver the boat to keep it in position.
At the same time, I have a line rigged and ready at the stern. If I can't get it with the bow, and drift past it, I have a second line rigged to get myself secured. Once secure and on the mooring, you can usually get another line through the mooring and carefully migrate to the bow. I did that last weekend. This weekend my hook and moor worked perfectly. It didn't last weekend, but that was because I'm not usually using it and was not proficient enough to get it on the first try in current and wind. But my backup stern line and old school boat hook got me secured, and then I was able to get a bow line through the eye, and walk it forward.
Like others have posted, some always pick up the mooring well aft, and walk it forward. This weekend I watched a 32 Bayliner (hardly a super high bow, but with a very close to the water cockpit) in completely calm conditions secure to the mooring at the stern first, then walk it forward. It occurred to me that is their default way of doing it.
My point of reference is tying to single point (buoy) moorings here in the PNW. The bow/stern mooring fields found in SoCAL (Catalina for example) may or may not be handled in the same way - the videos I've watched (Winty on Youtube) indicate the mooring has a long whip you pick up that has line you then tie to your fore and aft cleats. I'm totally unfamiliar with what the east coast has available for moorings, so none of this may apply!
Please follow up with your experience, it enlightens all of us to see different ways others come up with or settle on for dealing with this mundane little tasks!