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Old 03-26-2020, 12:24 AM   #21
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We put a pressure pump on it and didnít find any leaks. I put a dye in it last year. Havenít had a chance to use the black light on it yet.
Oops, just remembered, I also replaced both rad caps. Only 4lbs.
The pressure pump reminded me.
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Old 03-26-2020, 12:32 AM   #22
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Oops, just remembered, I also replaced both rad caps. Only 4lbs.
The pressure pump reminded me.
Thanks, I have to put the black light on it and see if it shows anything.
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Old 03-26-2020, 06:26 AM   #23
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That rules out a head gasket failure, an unlikely event but possible. More likely, the coolant is going out the exhaust through the heat exchanger. I just a few days ago replaced my 12-year-old exchangers on my FL 120s. I had no evidence of failure and, yes, I suppose they could have lasted years longer. I chose the CuproNickel version which is about $150 more. Cost was $703 each including shipping. Based on this thread, I am glad I spent the money.

While I was at it, I eliminated that hokey connection from the header tank to the exchanger that employs two steel tubes and two short hose connections (and clamps). Instead, I used a coupling at the short elbow from the header tank and then a single long run to the exchager using silicone radiator hose. I was very happy with the result.
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First thing I looked at after the expansion tank was the oil. Its oil. Not a oil/coolant milkshake. Thank goodness.
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Old 03-26-2020, 06:48 AM   #24
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Greetings,
Mr. c. "That rules out a head gasket failure..." Not necessarily. Might be a failure to the outside of the engine rather than the inside. Coolant leaks to drip pan instead of oil pan. Sorry. response to post #15.
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Old 03-26-2020, 07:07 AM   #25
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I did say unlikely but possible. I also said in my first response to start simple. Wouldn't a coolant loss through a head gasket externally be easy to discern? How about draining the heat exchanger and then pressurize the coolant system with a radiator cap tool? If the exchanger were compromised, would it not then fill with coolant?
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Greetings,
Mr. c. "That rules out a head gasket failure..." Not necessarily. Might be a failure to the outside of the engine rather than the inside. Coolant leaks to drip pan instead of oil pan. Sorry. response to post #15.
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Old 03-26-2020, 08:02 AM   #26
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Mine runs at a bit over 180, just what the thermostat calls for.

I overheated mine rather severely one time. Following an injection pump replacement which caused an air lock in the system. I was driving from above and saw the temp gauge peg, looked down and saw steam billowing out of both side doors. Made a quick course correction and shut it down. Coasted into the well at my marina after calling for docking help, thinking I might need "braking" help.

Anyway, long story short. No damage

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Old 03-26-2020, 08:31 AM   #27
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Greetings,
Mr. 99. I fully agree. Start with the simplest things first. As you mention, a head gasket failure IS unlikely.


Regarding the potential external leak of coolant: Evidence of leakage might be discernible BUT it may be so slow, over time (as in winter storage) as to become almost invisible, source-wise.


At one point, our boat was in the Hinkley yard in Thunderbolt, GA. I had a pesky oil leak I just could not find the source of. Our Lehman IS oily to a small extent so the "trail" was invisible to me. Their mechanic at the time, Bob, spotted the source immediately. One small O-ring later and WALLA! Thanks Bob.
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Old 03-26-2020, 12:05 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catalinajack View Post
I did say unlikely but possible. I also said in my first response to start simple. Wouldn't a coolant loss through a head gasket externally be easy to discern? How about draining the heat exchanger and then pressurize the coolant system with a radiator cap tool? If the exchanger were compromised, would it not then fill with coolant?
I searched the local auto parts and rental stores for a pressure kit that would fit the Lehman 4# radiator cap. No luck. It was all Honda, Toyota, Dodge, etc. None of the adapters would fit the big Lehman cap. Anybody found a source for renting a pressure tester? My next thought is a rubber cork drilled to fit a schrader valve, but renting the real thing would give me more confidence in the results.

Mark
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Old 03-26-2020, 01:16 PM   #29
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second rad cap?

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Old 03-26-2020, 01:28 PM   #30
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Quote:
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I searched the local auto parts and rental stores for a pressure kit that would fit the Lehman 4# radiator cap. No luck. It was all Honda, Toyota, Dodge, etc. None of the adapters would fit the big Lehman cap. Anybody found a source for renting a pressure tester? My next thought is a rubber cork drilled to fit a schrader valve, but renting the real thing would give me more confidence in the results.

Mark
Mytivac MV4560 test kit. Available on Amazon and Ebay. Has adapters to fit most systems. Can't imagine that it won't fit a Lehman cap which is quite ordinary on older American cars.
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Old 03-26-2020, 01:56 PM   #31
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I bought one on Amazon that fits my 225 Lehman. It is currently unavailable but one like it should work.


8MILELAKE 14pc Auto Cooling System Radiator Color Cap Pressure Tester Kit Aluminum Adapters w/Case
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Old 04-03-2020, 01:03 PM   #32
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Both my Lehman 120's run at around 175 degrees, but it is important to bear in mind that both the temperature senders and the gauges are getting rather old and of course are uncalibrated.
The important thing to remember is that if they run at a particular temperature, it is when they deviate from that temperature that it becomes significant and requires immediate investigation. With 2 engines, only one is likely to change unless there is an electrical problem which say reduces the voltage in the instrument panel.
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Old 04-03-2020, 01:46 PM   #33
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Check your engine operations manual. My Caterpillar 3116 will indicate high temp and pressure if the oil level in the crankcase is too high, even just a little. Oil on top of the crank froths, changing viscosity and temp. This really freaked us out the first time I saw it. Then I found a note in the operations manual explaining it. So, ... read your operations manual?
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Old 04-03-2020, 01:47 PM   #34
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I thought my Lehman 120 overheated today. It always sits at 162 degrees while underway or idling. Comes up to temp and stays there. Today after changing fuel filters and running it afterwards the temp jumped to 190. I immediately shut it off. My manual says it should run 175 to 190 but 195 is optimum. I'm questioning my guage a bit now. What temp are other Lehman's running?
i also have a lehman 120 that has been overheating - 200 degrees.
the first strep in figuring out what is wrong thought is to test the engine temp. i use a hand held heat sensor and it shows a temp about 20 degrees less than the gauge.
i have a new thermostat that opens at 190 degrees which is what is required. it was not difficult to replace.
there are other problems that affect heating but it is good to get advice from someone who can look at the engine, assess hoses etc, check out the heat exchanger and then confirm you do not have leaking head gasket.
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Old 04-03-2020, 02:17 PM   #35
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I thought my Lehman 120 overheated today. It always sits at 162 degrees while underway or idling. Comes up to temp and stays there. Today after changing fuel filters and running it afterwards the temp jumped to 190. I immediately shut it off. My manual says it should run 175 to 190 but 195 is optimum. I'm questioning my guage a bit now. What temp are other Lehman's running?
I used to run mine fine at 195. The gauges are not perfect and have a tolerance of 7 to 10 percent or 14 to 19 degrees. When in very hot summer days it began to rise up to 205, I realized that the cooling capacity was wearing off. Usually, a stuck thermostat, or low amount of coolant, or coolant refill cup leak caused the system to not suck back coolant when the engine cooled down.



There are other potential causes for engine overheating. For example, a propeller seriously fouled up with barnacles will have the engine overheat and produce lower boat speed for a given engine RPM. In my case, I would lose up to 2 miles per hour of speed for the same engine RPMs due to the propeller being severely fouled with barnacles, Other potential causes include excessive Cutlas bearing friction, transmission gear bearings, bent shaft and vibration, engine oiling system and poor mist generated by injectors.



Te most likely cause from one week to another with the boat not operating are the fouled propeller and the leaky coolant re-filler cap. When the engine is cold after a hot run, the coolant overfill reservoir should have the coolant level change a bit. I had one case where the reservoir was leaking coolant into the bilge drop by drop. I discovered the problem by placing paper towels under the reservoir bottle. The next week, the dry paper towels had the distinctive color of the coolant. It was a $5 fix I could have spent thousands chasing it. Look always for the most plausible first.


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Old 04-03-2020, 02:25 PM   #36
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Lehman 120

Quote:
Originally Posted by Selidster View Post
I thought my Lehman 120 overheated today. It always sits at 162 degrees while underway or idling. Comes up to temp and stays there. Today after changing fuel filters and running it afterwards the temp jumped to 190. I immediately shut it off. My manual says it should run 175 to 190 but 195 is optimum. I'm questioning my guage a bit now. What temp are other Lehman's running?
I have a 36 year old Lehman with 7700 hrs that has been very well maintained. It runs at 180. I have been told by several knowledgeable sources that 180 is the optimum running temp.
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Old 04-03-2020, 03:35 PM   #37
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Hi long time lurker ... 1st time poster .. woo hoo (I guess being in precautionary covid isolation has some advantages!)

Had a very similar situation on my delivery voyage, Grand Haven to Lk Ontario.

Turned out that the coolant was leaking from heating coil in the tucked away potable water heater. Easy to by-pass this circuit to check.

When topping up the coolant, venting using the system using the vent valve (aft left of expansion tank, engine at idle and cool), really sped up getting the cooling system purged of air and truly full.

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Old 04-03-2020, 03:37 PM   #38
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If it was the heat exchanger then wouldnít the coolant go out the exhaust? Mine is dropping into the drip pan under the engine sometime over the winter.

Colder temps cause more contraction of the block and freeze plugs,I'd have a look there to start with.
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Old 04-03-2020, 03:57 PM   #39
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180 to 185 on my 135ís. I do an engine check every couple of hours using a infrared thermometer gun. I measure the bump underneath the header tank on the front of the engine at the same place each time which confirms the instruments.
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Old 04-04-2020, 10:24 AM   #40
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Sadly the problem is a cracked manifold. The crack is above the center two exhaust ports. Expensive repair.
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