Bottom Paint

[Delfin]

Originally Posted by Beekeepergreg

My boat is on the hard in NJ, how long between stripping bottom paint and barrier coating? Will a few months of winter allow the hull to dry?
No blisters just too many coats of paint.
Greg

In the NE, unlikely, but a yard with a moisture meter can tell you. Once dry, the barrier coat can start to go on anytime, but the sequence after that is critical. The second coat of epoxy goes on within 10 hours of the first, and the first coat of bottom paint goes on when the epoxy is still soft enough to leave a fingerprint if you press on it.

[fstbttms]

Originally Posted by Donna

The hot pepper does nothing and adding copper powder in the U.S is illegal.

It is not illegal to add copper to your anti fouling paint but it is likely ineffective. Adding pepper is absolutely useless.

[BrianSmith]

After a sandblast to bare metal and 5 coats of Interprotect 2000 (alternating btwn white and gray), we applied 3 coats of Trinidad Pro in May 2017. Then had a little Irma damage in September, so hauled out in December, and had to put another two coats of Trinidad Pro on, for the simple reason that it can't dry out, or you have to recoat it. (72 hours or more hauled out is their cut-off.) We've been in the Bahamas and Turks and Caicos since then, and have been happy with the results (we clean the bottom ourselves). However, I'm not sure Bahamas and Turks are good places to gauge bottom paint - there doesn't seem to be a lot of stuff here that wants to grow on boats, pilings, etc.

[Pier Pressure]

Originally Posted by gahmadi

Need to bottom paint my KK-39. The choices are hard paint or self polishing paint, specifically Pettit Trinidad PRO or Cukote respectively. I need to decide which is the best option and why? I would appreciate any experience-based advice.

Thank you

I purchased my boat 5 years ago in Annapolis, Hartge's Yacht Yard used Interlux ultra (Black) during commissioning. The boat is year round in the water with an annual haul to wash and inspect and have not had to repaint or touch up. We are in northern waters and don't have the same growth as you have south of here but it works better than anything that I've seen on any other boats in our area. Unfortunately it is not available in Canada.

[JYoung]

Sea Hawk shark hard covered with sea hawk ablative. Nothing better anymore.

[HiDHo]

Two coats of Sea Hawk epoxy barrier and two coats of Sea Hawk Shark Skin bottom paint. Pettit zinc spay to the propeller.

[O C Diver]

Originally Posted by BrianSmith

After a sandblast to bare metal and 5 coats of Interprotect 2000 (alternating btwn white and gray), we applied 3 coats of Trinidad Pro in May 2017. Then had a little Irma damage in September, so hauled out in December, and had to put another two coats of Trinidad Pro on, for the simple reason that it can't dry out, or you have to recoat it. (72 hours or more hauled out is their cut-off.) We've been in the Bahamas and Turks and Caicos since then, and have been happy with the results (we clean the bottom ourselves). However, I'm not sure Bahamas and Turks are good places to gauge bottom paint - there doesn't seem to be a lot of stuff here that wants to grow on boats, pilings, etc.

I queried the Paxton sales rep on 72 hour limit out of the water. The surface of the paint oxidizes or something to that effect. The solution is to abrade the surface with a Scotchbrite pad. As I will likely be hauling out end of next summer, I plan to try the equivalent of the Scotchbrite pad on a slow variable speed buffer to refresh the surface.

Ted

[BrianSmith]

Originally Posted by O C Diver

I queried the Paxton sales rep on 72 hour limit out of the water. The surface of the paint oxidizes or something to that effect. The solution is to abrade the surface with a Scotchbrite pad. As I will likely be hauling out end of next summer, I plan to try the equivalent of the Scotchbrite pad on a slow variable speed buffer to refresh the surface.

Ted

Yes, I didn't mean to imply that you have to do anything extraordinary after being out of the water for 72 hours. Just a good roughing up of the surface, for the next coat. With ablative paint, you don't have to recoat after a haulout, should you have to haul out for 3-4 days sooner than expected. That was the point I was trying to make.

[O C Diver]

Originally Posted by BrianSmith

Yes, I didn't mean to imply that you have to do anything extraordinary after being out of the water for 72 hours. Just a good roughing up of the surface, for the next coat. With ablative paint, you don't have to recoat after a haulout, should you have to haul out for 3-4 days sooner than expected. That was the point I was trying to make.

No, you misunderstand me. You can scuff the surface and put it back in the water without repainting the bottom.

Ted

[BrianSmith]

Originally Posted by O C Diver

No, you misunderstand me. You can scuff the surface and put it back in the water without repainting the bottom.

Ted

Oh! I'm going to have to look into that the next time we have to haul out before we need bottom paint. Thanks!

[JDCAVE]

I’m at the 6 year mark with Trinidad Petit. No growth, just a bit of slime. Will repaint with same this year.

Jim

[tiltrider1]

Originally Posted by JDCAVE

I’m at the 6 year mark with Trinidad Petit. No growth, just a bit of slime. Will repaint with same this year.

Jim

Pettit Trinidad can easily go 8 years in the PNW. However if you over sink a boat with Trinidad you will burn the copper right out of the paint. If you use an electro-guard on your boat you will be shocked at how long a 70% copper based paint will last.

[JDCAVE]

Originally Posted by tiltrider1

However if you over sink a boat with Trinidad...

I think if you “over sink a boat”, you’re in more troubled than just your bottom paint! Chuckle!

[tiltrider1]

Got to love auto correct.