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Old 12-07-2022, 06:41 AM   #41
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How bad of a tear out? Can you do a larger bung?
Hmm, hadn’t thought about that one. Going to the boat in a while and will check. Even if a larger bung, I have some 1/2”, wouldn’t cover it all it would decrease the tear out.
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Old 12-07-2022, 06:47 AM   #42
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Use a 1/2 inch bung as suggested above. To eliminate tear out when drilling, run the drill in reverse for a second and then switch back to drill the hole. Save the old teak and get your self a set of bung plug cutters. They should come as standard equipment with a GB. Lol.

Chinese ones will do https://www.harborfreight.com/plug-c...caAhlsEALw_wcB
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Old 12-07-2022, 06:48 AM   #43
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One other point with all this, I have a feeling that shaving the seams will expose them to UV and drying out faster. That and the light sanding will probably accelerate seams failing so will be on increased seam watch in the future. I have been getting lowering the seam down to the deck on the seams I have opened. Using a chisel to take out the rabbeted portion of the plank. Not sure if that is a good or bad idea but seemed like the right thing to do. Sure wouldn’t want to use a chisel on the whole deck but it works in these spots.
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Old 12-07-2022, 06:52 AM   #44
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Use a 1/2 inch bung as suggested above. To eliminate tear out when drilling, run the drill in reverse for a second and then switch back to drill the hole. Save the old teak and get your self a set of bung plug cutters. They should come as standard equipment with a GB. Lol.

Chinese ones will do https://www.harborfreight.com/plug-c...caAhlsEALw_wcB
Thanks, yes I have been running a 3/8” drill in reverse as the first step. I believe i forgot the step with these two which proves the wisdom in doing it that way. Duh. Yes, have a nice plug cutter set but am still using up a peanut butter jar full of 3/8” left by the PO.
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Old 12-07-2022, 05:37 PM   #45
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As suggested above a larger bung is a possible easy option. I have also used carved pieces of teak similar in shape to the damaged area. I carefully mark the outline of the plug then carve out the area with small chisels or a dremel tool and then fit the plug to the cut out. When you have a tight fit wash/clean the plug and the cut out with acetone. Then I use West GFlex coating the plug and the hole. The surrounding area was masked prior to the gluing. Tap the plug in place and let cure. I save teak scraps so I can find a piece that is similar in color and grain to match the damaged area or to make bungs. If you are careful it will be difficult to see the repair after it ages and matches the silvered surrounding wood. Negative: it take a good amount of time to do a proper job --- don't get in a hurry.

I have also used a router to repair a piece of teak that has split open on the deck. I mount the router on a track used for a saw and machine a slot with the router. Freud makes straight flue bits from 1/16 inch up so you can select the correct diameter for the repair. The track allows for a accurate straight cut. I cut the teak to size on a table saw or on a planner. Fit the plug and follow a similar process for gluing as described earlier.
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Old 12-07-2022, 09:38 PM   #46
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Screws are used to temporarily hold the shelf in place.
If it is possible not to use screws, screws only cause problems.
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