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Old 11-18-2022, 09:27 AM   #21
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Yes, the $130K was a surprise and made me think I was talking to a guy who was looking for all the money on a big job. He also said that he couldn't schedule it until July of next year. I got an estimate of $75K from another respected teak guy about a year and a half ago. That seemed about right. Big time guy said it was the "cost of material" that had gone up. Anyway.... Replacing them on my own is beyond my knowledge and energy level. No way. Just pulling off the teak and prepping is beyond it much less the entire project. If I keep the boat and do anything in total it would be fiberglass and non-skid. In the meantime, I will be re-caulking and bunging where needed. I can handle that but bet it will be more of a job than I anticipate. I would also like to minor league sand it to get rid of some of the ridges. Just delaying the inevitable, I know. Wondering what others who have done similar projects think is the most efficient way to go about it. I would think that it would be to re-caulk and bung and then sand as the last step? I will have to do it in stages of course. Re-seam and bung and leave it alone until I am finished and then sand in total? I am prepared to pull the boat and go the fiberglass route if needed so I don't think I can do any real harm. Famous last words.
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Old 11-18-2022, 12:10 PM   #22
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Maybe take it to Mexico for all the work?
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Old 11-18-2022, 06:31 PM   #23
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Maybe take it to Mexico for all the work?
That would be a nice trip although a bit long for us!
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Old 11-28-2022, 02:41 PM   #24
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Decided I didn't like the repair I did on the lifted plank so I pull it completely. Deck seems solid underneath, sounds solid when tapped. Teak is 3/8" thick. I would upload pics but I think everyone knows what a missing teak plank looks like. Question, what is the best product to use as adhesive for the new plank? I'm trying to avoid spending $45 on a sausage of TDS adhesive for one 4' plank. I spoke with 3M and they suggest 5200 but with the teak primed/sealed. Is there a better alternative?
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Old 11-28-2022, 03:56 PM   #25
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Decided I didn't like the repair I did on the lifted plank so I pull it completely. Deck seems solid underneath, sounds solid when tapped. Teak is 3/8" thick. I would upload pics but I think everyone knows what a missing teak plank looks like. Question, what is the best product to use as adhesive for the new plank? I'm trying to avoid spending $45 on a sausage of TDS adhesive for one 4' plank. I spoke with 3M and they suggest 5200 but with the teak primed/sealed. Is there a better alternative?
Black Sikaflex
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Old 11-28-2022, 04:15 PM   #26
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I would not use 5200. At some point you will likely have to bite the bullet and pull the teak off and either replace it with teak, bring your wallet, or glass the decks. And then the 5200 will be a real pain getting off. I also would go with Sika. It isnít as strong of an adhesive but do you need the strength of 5200?
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Old 11-28-2022, 05:45 PM   #27
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I would not use 5200. At some point you will likely have to bite the bullet and pull the teak off and either replace it with teak, bring your wallet, or glass the decks. And then the 5200 will be a real pain getting off. I also would go with Sika. It isnít as strong of an adhesive but do you need the strength of 5200?
Thanks. Which Sikaflex? 291? 295?
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Old 11-28-2022, 06:02 PM   #28
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Thanks. Which Sikaflex? 291? 295?

I use Teak Decking Systems SIS-440 for joints/seams. Never had to glue down much.
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Old 11-28-2022, 06:31 PM   #29
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Yes 440 for seams. I have several tubes that are within expiration date. Have to glue down first though. I do have some other seams that I am recaulking but want to do them all at once.
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Old 11-28-2022, 06:58 PM   #30
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Thanks. Which Sikaflex? 291? 295?
Black
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Old 11-28-2022, 07:20 PM   #31
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291 is for general use. 295 UV is for plastics I believe. I have not checked for a couple of years.
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Old 11-28-2022, 08:21 PM   #32
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LOL !
That looks like my deck.
Get ready for some fun. Its just time to re caulk the deck. Its some serious time. Remove the caulk , I had to route out all the joints with a router because there was no room/ groove left for the caulk. Then sand joints. and clean, install deck separator membrane, fill with caulk and trowel in. Will look like total shit. Then sand/grind flat. Will take time. You need good quality sanding equipment. You can make like new.

I have 7/ 10 hr days in labor in this so far. I still have my companion ways and the swim platform to do. Looking great though. Make sure you use the right caulking materials. I used a sikafex dc 90 pro that sanded well and did not clog the sander.

The popping area take a multi tool and cut out a piece of teak that is lifted and re set it to the deck, and re screw down. If not you will continue to "pop" the board with the expansion and contraction of the boards. The boards need to be bedded down or they will just tear the screws through the boards.

Check out Andy at Boatworkstoday.com he has great videos on this topic.
My post from 10/29 all the info you need bed and seam same product
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Old 11-30-2022, 01:02 PM   #33
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Ready to put down new plank and have a question. Bed it in with sandbags to weight it down and then put screws in after it has cured or…put screws in to hold it down while curing? I am told the screws were only used to hold planks tight while curing. If so, do I need screws? Using the TDS bedding adhesive.
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Old 11-30-2022, 01:26 PM   #34
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Ready to put down new plank and have a question. Bed it in with sandbags to weight it down and then put screws in after it has cured orÖput screws in to hold it down while curing? I am told the screws were only used to hold planks tight while curing. If so, do I need screws? Using the TDS bedding adhesive.
Maybe drill an oversized hole, fill with epoxy, and then screw it down. With a hole potted with epoxy you can leave the screw in and bung it.
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Old 11-30-2022, 01:56 PM   #35
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So use the screws as pressure while it cures?
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Old 11-30-2022, 02:17 PM   #36
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I would probably use screws to hold it down just because. But if you don’t use screws then cut a strip of wood the same size and the teak plank. Lay it on top of the teak plank with something like wax paper between it and the plank so it doesn’t get glued down too. Then put your weight on top of the scrap wood. This will help get the pressure directly on the teak plank rather than spread out over the surrounding planks. Also put blue tape on all the surrounding planks so any squeeze out doesn’t stick to them.
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Old 11-30-2022, 02:24 PM   #37
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I would use the TDS product to bed the teak plank. Use pan head screws with washers to hold the plank in place to allow the bedding to cure maybe several weeks depends on temp and humidity. Then remove the screws and then bung the holes. The 3/8 inch teak does not allow much thickness to install a flat head screw and bung. If you are careful you could get a bung thickness of about 1/8 inch when flushed out with the screws. For the first step drill the hole thru the teak use a drill diameter which matches the screw thread diameter.
Mask the teak surfaces and do the seams with the tds 440 after the plank is cured. I use a multitool saw the a knife blade to trim the seam material after it is cured does less damage that sanding in my experience.
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Old 12-04-2022, 10:19 PM   #38
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I used to have this problem posting pictures to forums. Now I edit them to Ďsquareí. Seems to have solved the problem of rotated photos.
Ummn? How do you do that? A little more detail please.
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Old 12-07-2022, 07:08 AM   #39
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I’m moving along on this project. New plank is in place but needs some sanding to bring it even with adjacent planks, excess caulk in seams have been shaved down and 150+- bungs replaced. The seam shaving revealed a couple of spots where the caulk had separated from the sides but overall I have been very surprised (and relieved) on the quality of the seams. Also relieved that I have found no evidence of soft spots or water intrusion in the core. I drilled down to the core in the spot where the plank end lifted and it was dry. Next step is to lightly sand the seams and bring down some of the ridges in the planks where possible and without going crazy. There are two other planks that need replacing due to very excessive wear but will deal with those later.

Now for my question, I had some tear out while drilling two bung replacements. What is the proper way to deal with fixing? Epoxy and Teak dust seems like a bad idea as it will not wear down with the Teak. Titebond and saw dust? How has this been dealt with in the past? Just deal with the epoxy as it becomes an issue over time?
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Old 12-07-2022, 07:10 AM   #40
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Iím moving along on this project. New plank is in place but needs some sanding to bring it even with adjacent planks, excess caulk in seams have been shaved down and 150+- bungs replaced. The seam shaving revealed a couple of spots where the caulk had separated from the sides but overall I have been very surprised (and relieved) on the quality of the seams. Also relieved that I have found no evidence of soft spots or water intrusion in the core. I drilled down to the core in the spot where the plank end lifted and it was dry. Next step is to lightly sand the seams and bring down some of the ridges in the planks where possible and without going crazy. There are two other planks that need replacing due to very excessive wear but will deal with those later.

Now for my question, I had some tear out while drilling two bung replacements. What is the proper way to deal with fixing? Epoxy and Teak dust seems like a bad idea as it will not wear down with the Teak. Titebond and saw dust? How has this been dealt with in the past? Just deal with the epoxy as it becomes an issue over time?
How bad of a tear out? Can you do a larger bung?
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