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Old 01-30-2021, 12:08 PM   #221
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"I even went to the automotive upholstery shops and they were also quoting $120 an hour. I can hire a software engineer with a PhD for that...come on."
Yes but the overpaid software engineer cannot sew.
I went through the similar dock talk as you, It is very satisfying to see the final result. I know it never ends. Enjoy.
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Old 01-30-2021, 01:55 PM   #222
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I would like to know more about replacing the window sliders. I had the cracked windows replaced in the aft cabin and after I drydocked the boat, they cracked again!
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Old 01-30-2021, 02:16 PM   #223
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I would like to know more about replacing the window sliders. I had the cracked windows replaced in the aft cabin and after I drydocked the boat, they cracked again!


I would like that also need to replace all mine.
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Old 01-30-2021, 02:36 PM   #224
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It is a great project for sure and a bit of an experiment going fast like you are. Appreciate keeping us informed along the way. Have you been surprised in regards to rot? And how are your transom corner.s? Thatís where water collects.
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Old 01-30-2021, 04:36 PM   #225
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There is a nice thread on this forum that discusses classic GB replacement windows. The GB window structure can be disassembled and replaced on DIY basis or I’ve seen quotes of 1000 a window. Need someone who’s done it before and will do it right. I’ve heard it’s a one day job for one person.
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Old 01-30-2021, 05:30 PM   #226
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thebruce:

Door slider; if you go to sliders consider polypropylene or similar. Teflon is kinda soft and could snag/embed on stuff that gets in the track (like sand). You may have to move the position of the handle down a bit to get it to slide easy, as the sliders will have a bit more drag, but that can keep the door in part-open position too.

You are soo right on the prep time to paint, that's most of the work, the painting goes fast.

I've had several unsolicited positive comments on my boat's look after finishing up the exterior, but no offers to buy! Good on 'ya.
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Old 01-30-2021, 10:52 PM   #227
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"I even went to the automotive upholstery shops and they were also quoting $120 an hour. I can hire a software engineer with a PhD for that...come on."

Yes but the overpaid software engineer cannot sew.
Well said
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Old 01-30-2021, 11:23 PM   #228
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Originally Posted by Isabella42 View Post
I would like to know more about replacing the window sliders. I had the cracked windows replaced in the aft cabin and after I drydocked the boat, they cracked again!
I've been meaning to do a writeup on these. They arent fun And I would recommend just doing one at a time. I tried to do all of them at once and it sucked. However, I was trying to get them done before painting started.

For the sliders the basics are as follows:

- you need to remove the interior wood trim above and below the windows to get access to the interior fasteners. that will take you 2-3hrs to remove all the bungs.
- the interior fasteners go horizontal, above and below the windows. the exterior fasteners go vertical.
- to access the exterior fasteners you need to scrape the window frames to find the bungs. there are probably around 12 on the outside.
- the interior fasteners are semi-hidden with some fairing compound, but you can typically see the outlines of them. I chipped out the compound. there are about 18 of these per window.
- you then need to break the sealant around the exterior frames. I used the edge of a wood chisel for this and just ran it around the edges.
- then remove all the fasteners. they are bronze, so do it by hand so you dont strip them. they cost about $2 a piece to replace.
- use a putty knife to pry under the exterior frame and slowly remove it. be careful and have two sets of hands here. the frame, window tracks and slider window all come out as one piece (if you are lucky).
- the fixed frame then can just be pulled straight out. be careful with that as it can fall out when you remove the frame.
- the wood frame is a bit flexible when you take it out, so if you pull the horizontal frames (gently) you can pull the window out of the track.
- then carefully remove the metal tracks. my screws were all corroded so I used a multitool and just cut them. DONT DESTROY these during removal. you need them to as templates to cut the new ones.
- then sand and prep the frames for new tracks. the most time will be spent here.
- I sanded down to bare wood and then had a lot of repair to do with systemthree fairing epoxy. I wouldn't recommend that, unless you have just some small areas to fix. I would just get new frames milled. it will save you a ton of time and you will get better results.
- then prep the frame on the superstructure. it looks like its all rotten when you first take the frames off. but thats just the old dolphinite. scrape and sand all that off then use penetrating epoxy, build any areas up with fairing epoxy, then prime.
- then you need to get 6 X 8" stanpro window tracks. that will give you enough for all 4 sliders in the boat. you also need 1x 8" single track for the vertical felt between the sliders and fixed frames.
- if you need to replace the windows they are just laminated safety glass. I replaced 7 and it was only $500. but - MAKE SURE to have the shop sand the edges of the windows down, or do it yourself with 120. if you dont, the rough edges will gouge into the window tracks.
- cut the window tracks using your old ones as the template. use an angle grinder to cut the tracks to the basic size, then use a flap disk sanding wheel to trim to down perfectly. it makes quick work of it. we would test fit the tracks and mark any overlap with a pen, then grind down to that line.
- then install 900 tiny screws to hold the vertical and top track in place. you need to pre-drill these with a metal drill bit. I didnt use screws on the bottom track, as recommended by others. I bedded all of them with sikaflex.
- then drill the drain holes in the bottom track.
- I used butyl to hold the fixed frames in place but found it too thick for the main frames. I used sika for that.
- you need 2-3 people to install the window. dont try to be the solo hero. I did and shattering one of the windows on install when the frame imploded. it was the low point of the project.

I have pictures of most every step I can share. Ping me with any questions.
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Old 01-31-2021, 01:21 AM   #229
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6 X 8" stanpro & 1x 8" single track, explain, or do you mean 6 pieces-8 foot doubletrack and 1 piece-8 foot single?

when you had it all apart did you see any reason this could not all be done from the inside?
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Old 01-31-2021, 03:07 AM   #230
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Yes, 6 pieces of the U track (Stanpro Y582) and 1 8" piece of the edge trim (slides over the edge of the fixed windows). I dont have a part number for that, but its also stanpro.

I didnt follow what you meant by "all done from the inside"? All windows are removed from the outside, even the fixed windows. The cabin plywood walls have a notch that runs around the window opening that the glass sits in, making it impossible to remove from the inside (and making the plywood window frames very thin in this area and prone to dry rot, so be careful.) I attached a quick sectional of how they are sandwiched together.
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Old 01-31-2021, 03:40 AM   #231
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Thanks Bruce. I see what you mean on how it was built, I was wondering if it had to be from the outside is all. Having to take the inside apart anyway is a surprise, first time I have read that. Not only is it a problem area, it is also a finicky construction, as you said better to have 1-2 helpers for the install.
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Old 02-10-2021, 12:56 AM   #232
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Hi all - quick update on the project:

- First coat of paint on the hull. Looking terrific.

- The boat is becoming a popular attraction at the dock. Everyone stopping by to chat.

- Overall the exterior paint is looking great but after a few days I have found all the little imperfections. Unfortunately my OCD will be compelled to fix them. The window frames need the most work. I am kicking myself for not replacing them.

- Over the weekend I got the first coats of primer on the cabin. Wow, what a transformation. It previously had a Jack Sparrow meets Shawshank type thing going on.

- The flybridge seats are rebuilt. Will start priming the flybridge tmrw. Still lots of work to do up there. I also found a 2" area of rot on the top corner of the console. Not sure how im going to fix that. Its right on the edge where the water drains.


- The transmission seal and new transmission oil hoses were installed last week. The nut in the coupler was loose so the mechanic felt this might have been the real reason for the leak.

Questions for the pros:

- I have the original Stewart Warner gauges at the helm. The tachometer and voltmeter dont work, but they work on the flybridge. Any tips on how to debug them? I believe they both run off the alternator so that seems like it might be the culprit.

- Anybody install an EMU1 analog to digital converter for engine gauges?
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_9632.jpg   IMG_9634.jpg   IMG_9633.jpg   IMG_9601.jpg   IMG_9649.jpg  

IMG_9616.jpg   IMG_9652.jpg  
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Old 02-10-2021, 01:13 AM   #233
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Nice paint job on hull. High Gloss? Gotta ask what paint brand are you using, then next question is those OCD imperfections, show me before and after . Reason I ask is if you are doing spot touch ups how is the paint working out so the touch up is not more visible than the imperfection.
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Old 02-10-2021, 02:05 AM   #234
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Good looken!
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Old 02-10-2021, 05:51 PM   #235
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Re: volt meter. If fly bridge works but main is not a problem then it’s probably at bad connection or ground. Look at the wiring junction panel, where upper helm and lower ones connect. This is at main helm and is accessed by removing instrument panel. It is on the right side affixed to the aft panel of the helm enclosure. Upper and lower wires are connected here so bridge can be disconnected and removed. Check screws for tightness. Some of mine were loose. Check voltages here. Check ground on lower volt meter.
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Old 02-10-2021, 06:48 PM   #236
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I love this thread.

Incredible amount of work done!
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Old 02-11-2021, 12:52 AM   #237
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Originally Posted by Soo-Valley View Post
Nice paint job on hull. High Gloss? Gotta ask what paint brand are you using, then next question is those OCD imperfections, show me before and after . Reason I ask is if you are doing spot touch ups how is the paint working out so the touch up is not more visible than the imperfection.
Thanks! We used 2 coats of Interlux Pre-kote primer and 2 coats of Brightsides topcoat. The recommendation I got was to stick with polyurethanes as the wood flexes too much for epoxy-based.

Compared to what it looked like before, its an amazing transformation. But...its so good it raised the OCD meter. The paint itself was fine. No issues in how it laid down. Key areas I need to work on:

- The window frames had been worn down from years of sanding and weather. I tried to fix them with system three woody putty which got me 80% there, but it could have been 100% and far less effort if I just had them remilled. I "think" I can get them up to 90% if I fair them again. I'm also envisioning a Dremel router jig contraption which could get the edges perfectly straight.

- There is one spot on the cabin side that we didnt fair well enough. That can be fixed pretty easily.
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Old 02-11-2021, 12:54 AM   #238
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Originally Posted by Tim View Post
Re: volt meter. If fly bridge works but main is not a problem then itís probably at bad connection or ground. Look at the wiring junction panel, where upper helm and lower ones connect. This is at main helm and is accessed by removing instrument panel. It is on the right side affixed to the aft panel of the helm enclosure. Upper and lower wires are connected here so bridge can be disconnected and removed. Check screws for tightness. Some of mine were loose. Check voltages here. Check ground on lower volt meter.
Awesome. Thanks so much!
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Old 02-14-2021, 02:02 PM   #239
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Originally Posted by thebruce View Post
Hi all - quick update on the project:

- First coat of paint on the hull. Looking terrific.

- The boat is becoming a popular attraction at the dock. Everyone stopping by to chat.

- Overall the exterior paint is looking great but after a few days I have found all the little imperfections. Unfortunately my OCD will be compelled to fix them. The window frames need the most work. I am kicking myself for not replacing them.

- Over the weekend I got the first coats of primer on the cabin. Wow, what a transformation. It previously had a Jack Sparrow meets Shawshank type thing going on.

- The flybridge seats are rebuilt. Will start priming the flybridge tmrw. Still lots of work to do up there. I also found a 2" area of rot on the top corner of the console. Not sure how im going to fix that. Its right on the edge where the water drains.


- The transmission seal and new transmission oil hoses were installed last week. The nut in the coupler was loose so the mechanic felt this might have been the real reason for the leak.

Questions for the pros:

- I have the original Stewart Warner gauges at the helm. The tachometer and voltmeter dont work, but they work on the flybridge. Any tips on how to debug them? I believe they both run off the alternator so that seems like it might be the culprit.

- Anybody install an EMU1 analog to digital converter for engine gauges?


Here is the wire diagram should be similar.Click image for larger version

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Old 02-15-2021, 09:00 AM   #240
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Here is the wire diagram should be similar.Attachment 114388
Thanks so much! I have to figure out how to read that now. Electricity is still dark witchcraft to me
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