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Old 01-06-2021, 01:05 PM   #181
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Dolfinite is hard to find and is not permanent, it hardens up and allows leaks. Butyl tape is much easier to use and lasts a lot longer.
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Old 01-06-2021, 02:11 PM   #182
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Dolfinite is hard to find and is not permanent, it hardens up and allows leaks. Butyl tape is much easier to use and lasts a lot longer.
Ahh - this is great info. Yes, I could see all the old white bedding compound was hard and brittle.

There are multiple components sandwiched together in those windows and im wondering how much overlap/squeeze out of tape you want around each e.g.

- you first have the plywood superstructure with a notch the fixed window sits in. im assuming you want to tape between that and the fixed piece of glass
- then you have the aluminum window track for the sliding window that are screwed into the exterior wood frame. do you want compound on the two sides where the U channel track lays in the frame?
- then that entire frame is screwed to the superstructure with compound between them
- then once the frame is bedded, what would you use around the outside seam, or is the squeeze out good enough?
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Old 01-06-2021, 02:54 PM   #183
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It's been a few years since I did my wood windows so without pictures I would suggest that anywhere you need a sealant, use butyl. You can cut the strips smaller to fit. Never use silicone. Don't be tempted as all parts of a woody needs coatings and the silicone will ensure you have coating failures and bird's eyes in all your varnish.

Squeeze out is good with butyl, don't overtighten the fasteners, it's slow moving and you want to progressively tighten them over a few days or weeks, depending upon temperatures.

I remember the glass tracks with the felt were stainless. I would not recommend aluminum because of corrosion.

I really would recommend that you research new windows - this design is fine if you are happy doing this job over and over, are happy keeping the drain pipes clear of mud daubers and bird poop. The felt tracks will get crusty and crappy and you'll have to wash them regularly, then you will be chasing leaks that will only appear after they have damaged something. Also, water will sit in the felt tracks and eventually delaminate the safety glass. You're probably searching for glass now?

If you plan to sell her soon, just do the repair.
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Old 01-06-2021, 04:59 PM   #184
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@Xsbank - this is awesome info. Exactly what I needed. Do you by chance know how the center windshield (the pivot window) is removed? I read an article that said the windshield was removed from the inside but it looks like that center window you need to remove the quarter round trim from the outside to remove it.

Yes, the tracks are stainless, apologies. They are the Stanpro brand everyone uses. I picked up 6 or 7 of them, which should be enough for all windows.

And yea, I will replace a few more windows. I have 2 that are cracked and another ~3 that are delaminated. I have a local glass shop that will come onsite to cut the panels. I read these windows can be slightly different than the drawings, so will just have them cut as I take them out. Thats the focus for the weekend. Then next week will be removing and rebedding the deck molding.

Thx so much.
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Old 01-06-2021, 05:19 PM   #185
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Bruce - PO of boat must be tickled pink that you are restoring his old baby!
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Old 01-06-2021, 09:03 PM   #186
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Rich, Looks great. Did you also glue the formica and teak? What glue
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Old 01-06-2021, 09:29 PM   #187
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Bruce - PO of boat must be tickled pink that you are restoring his old baby!
I hope so. I think the boat was a big part of his life. Everyone in the bay seems to know him. He, his dog and the boat were always shown anchored in McCovey cove during Giants game commercials.
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Old 01-07-2021, 05:50 AM   #188
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headliner replacement

Some years ago I replaced the headliner in a 1979 GB42 I owned at the time.

I just came across a discussion from the now-discontinued Grand Banks forum that I had saved and which be of use to those contemplating the procedure.
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Old 01-09-2021, 12:13 AM   #189
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Progress update: windows are out, first coat of sealant is on, ready to prime the superstructure next week.
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Old 01-09-2021, 12:24 AM   #190
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Go, Go... GO!! Looken good!
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Old 01-13-2021, 01:39 AM   #191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xsbank View Post
Dolfinite is hard to find and is not permanent, it hardens up and allows leaks. Butyl tape is much easier to use and lasts a lot longer.
I had 7 new windows delivered, I have the stainless U channel cut and test fit for most of the windows, everything is prepped and the windows are ready to go back in tomorrow.

However, I had a couple last minute questions:

1 - butyl tape was the recommendation over dophinite. any disagreements speak. now or forever hold your peace

2 - on the sliders im assuming you add a layer of butyl between the fixed window and the superstructure, then another layer between the fixed window and the exterior frame, then another layer around the exterior frame.

3 - is there some new an improved way to bed the stainless U channel instead of using all those tiny screws?

4 - do you also use butyl tape to bed the stainless window channel in the window frame? im assuming so. there is some black stuff in my old tracks, but its so old its really hard to tell what it was.

5 - ive scraped all the frames and superstructure to bare wood, painted with penetrating epoxy, used fairing epoxy and plan to put a coat or two of primer on the frames before bedding. does this sound about right?


And, the first coat of primer is on today. Starting to look like a boat again. Its been an amazing transformation from a hot mess into a Grand Banks over the past 2 weeks.

Ps - and yes, im removing the name on the hull like that. It doesn't look very grand banks'ish. We will hopefully get topsides done next week (if the harbormaster doesn't get pissed).
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Old 01-13-2021, 03:43 AM   #192
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Hey Bruce,

Awesome pace so I am loath to ask you to interrupt your project schedule for the ceiling shoot of how the mast is braced from underneath the floor of the flybridge- I`m assuming there is something there.

Thanks

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Old 01-13-2021, 07:40 AM   #193
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You asked so my opinion-
I did the windows on my ‘74 32 and I think polysulfide is a better choice for bedding the tracks. It’ll flow to fill the gaps where the butyl needs pressure to compress it to form a seal.
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Old 01-13-2021, 07:53 AM   #194
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I have no restoration recommendations... just congratulations! Hell-of-a-good-job!!
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Old 01-14-2021, 11:08 AM   #195
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I like using butyl tape to fix metal hardware but find it too stiff to use on things like wooden window frames or quarter-rounds. There might be a trick too use it such as heating with a hot-air gun but I have not done that.

I have used Dolfinite in the past and it has worked well if rather expensive, messy and really hard to get here in Europe.

I recently bought but have not tried a product by Sika called SikaLastomer which looks promising. It is butyl-in-a-cartridge.

Confusingly, it is called SikaLastomer 710 in Europe and SikaLastomer 714 in the US.

https://usa.sika.com/en/industry/aut...tomer-714.html
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Old Today, 01:14 PM   #196
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Hi all - quick update.

- 7 new windows are back in! What a pain in the ass Not a fun project - and not a project you should do single-handed. I had a clown show incident last weekend where the frame of one of the big sliders broke while I was installing and the window fell out of the bottom and shattered. Awesome.
- I will do a writeup on the window replacement procedure if anyone needs it. Lots of lessons learned the hard way.
- 2nd coat of primer is on. We will need to wait another week for the final paint since we have some rain coming up this week.
- there were some DIY rot fixes gone bad on the flybridge seats so decided it was easier to rip them out and replace vs trying to fix. thats the next project. they had been replaced 10 years ago and they rotted around all the edges of the marine ply. the frames were fine. so I will coat the new marine ply with CPES.
- I have all the parts in from American diesel so next Tuesday we will be replacing the motor support bracket, new transmission seal, zinc pencils, new transmission hoses.
- I also had an electrician over for an initial review and we found a couple sockets were reverse polarity and coincidentally 15 mins after he left I found a short...and electrocuted myself for the first time It looked like some wiring to the fridge compressor had been cut in the past and the ends had frayed and shorted. I was a bit annoyed he hadn't seen them 1hr earlier. Anyway, he came back over and we shut down shore power until he can do a thorough check and map all wiring.

I need a good method to remove paint from the stainless railings and bronze hawseholes and rubrail. The prior owner had painted for some awful reason. The bronze seems particularly hard to remove since its softer than the steal. We tried paint removed and that was useless. I think a paint stripping wheel would be too aggressive. Right now our only option is a heat gun and scrapper, which wont be much fun.

We hopefully will get the first goat of primer on the interior soon. That will be a big milestone and make it start to look like a real boat again.

@Brisyboy - on the Gb32 the mast isn't attached to the superstructure. Its freestanding and sits about 6" behind it. Its supported with 2 wires to the flybridge railings.
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Old Today, 01:28 PM   #197
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TY for all the info and photos.

Glad the glass window did not harm you as it fell/shattered. Safety glass?

Paint remover/stripper is only Item I can think of to at least get bulk of paint off SS... Jasco is the brand I use. Depending on paint layers sometimes more than one application is needed. Toxic stuff; protect what is underneath/around, it eats holes in some items and can stain.

Good luck with the wiring and try to stay shock-free!!

BTW - You get finished you'll have a near new GB!! Yea!!!
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Old Today, 02:11 PM   #198
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I would like some engine pics before you get serious there. I am certain your "after" pics will show a much improved situation. I spent some time earlier today giving some advice to a new 120 Lehman owner. See the "New owners of a trawler and..." thread.
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