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Old 03-14-2022, 10:04 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by mncruiser View Post
To confirm, the hulls are *NOT* cored on the Mainship models of this era. Some of the decking and superstructure may be, but the hull is solid fiberglass.
You are partially correct. I specifically was referring to the decks - which absolutely are. However, to further clarify, the hull above the waterline *is* cored as I discovered when replacing a couple of vent and drain through-hulls.
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Old 03-15-2022, 09:00 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Phyrcooler View Post
You are partially correct. I specifically was referring to the decks - which absolutely are. However, to further clarify, the hull above the waterline *is* cored as I discovered when replacing a couple of vent and drain through-hulls.
Agreed. Balsa on the hull above the waterline and the decks.

Take a careful look at the windlass. Whether it was the factory or the dealer who installed it on mine, they simply cut a hole and installed the windlass. They caulked the exterior of the windlass, but did nothing with the hole that the rode passes through.

The balsa sandwiched between the deck and the inner was like wet paper bags.
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Old 03-15-2022, 09:09 AM   #23
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Correct, I removed the deck, not the trunk. flipped the deck over and cut the underside of the deck out. Replaced all the old core and wooden supports, glassed over everything.
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Old 03-21-2022, 11:28 AM   #24
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I have a 1997/350. Twin Volvo turbo 200hp. Ive had her for 2 years. Very solid boat. Very capable for coastal cruising. Purchased her in San Francisco and brought her to Long Beach Ca. Ran into some very rough water around Pt. Conception and she held her own just fine. She will rock though. Do not be afraid of twins or Volvos. Volvos are good engines. I have the TAMD 41 p-a engines with 765 hours. Price of parts are comparable to other make engines within a reasonable difference +or-. My swim platform has never been touched that I can tell. No hatches anywhere. I eventually probe around to check for water intrusion. I suspect there might be only because its a known issue. I cruise her between 9-10knts. Wot is 16.8knts.
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Old 03-21-2022, 11:30 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by captkev View Post
Correct, I removed the deck, not the trunk. flipped the deck over and cut the underside of the deck out. Replaced all the old core and wooden supports, glassed over everything.
How hard was it to remove the platform top? I have a 1997/350 that I believe has never been touched. There are no hatches on the top of the platform.
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Old 03-22-2022, 08:11 AM   #26
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How hard was it to remove the platform top? I have a 1997/350 that I believe has never been touched. There are no hatches on the top of the platform.
Its not that bad we did it 2 years ago to remove foam and install a stern thruster. take stainless trim off at the joint you will the expose a very narly joint thjat has screws coming from the top and the bottom, remove all screws and then heat silicone joint and pry apart. there is a fiberglass skin over the 3 compartments which is easy to break through and then the foam I guarantee will be waterlogged, I think we removed about 750# of water from the platform. I installed 2 Hatches that allow for great storage when all is put back together and also allows you to remove water that comes back into the platform some say from the trim tabs, could be from where the lines go through the box to the tabs. some install a bilge pump (this was mainships fix)
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Old 03-22-2022, 10:17 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Cartouche View Post
Its not that bad we did it 2 years ago to remove foam and install a stern thruster. take stainless trim off at the joint you will the expose a very narly joint thjat has screws coming from the top and the bottom, remove all screws and then heat silicone joint and pry apart. there is a fiberglass skin over the 3 compartments which is easy to break through and then the foam I guarantee will be waterlogged, I think we removed about 750# of water from the platform. I installed 2 Hatches that allow for great storage when all is put back together and also allows you to remove water that comes back into the platform some say from the trim tabs, could be from where the lines go through the box to the tabs. some install a bilge pump (this was mainships fix)
Good info.
How thick is the platform cover?
Once the foam is removed will additional support have to be added to replace the support if any the foam provided?
Along with the soggy foam was there standing water inside the compartment?
Thanks
Jim
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Old 03-22-2022, 10:21 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by jclays View Post
Good info.
How thick is the platform cover?
Once the foam is removed will additional support have to be added to replace the support if any the foam provided?
Along with the soggy foam was there standing water inside the compartment?
Thanks
Jim
Yes standing water up here in the north the foam would freeze and thaw as it is titally water logged the foam offers no support to the top. it is 3 compartments that the deck sits on. no extra support needed.
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Old 03-22-2022, 10:25 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by jclays View Post
Good info.
How thick is the platform cover?
Once the foam is removed will additional support have to be added to replace the support if any the foam provided?
Along with the soggy foam was there standing water inside the compartment?
Thanks
Jim
you can see by pictures in post 23 it is not that thick fiberglass both sides with a balsa sandwich in the middle I forgot one step when you remove stainless trim - there are then screws holding rub rail in - take a picture of location you remove them as there are a bunch of possibilities in the rub rail, then you will see narly joint. project well worth doing. It also helps with List issues
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Old 03-24-2022, 09:29 AM   #30
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Check your mail.
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Old 03-28-2022, 08:35 PM   #31
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I am hoping to get some thoughts from those of you who own Mainships, because my wife and I are going to look at a 350 tomorrow. ( It seems very similar to what is also called a 390.) It is a 1999 model.
From other threads you may have read that I have been looking for something in the 36' range, and hopefully a Monk, Island Gypsy or GB, but the pickings are slim to none these days, and those that come up seem to be sold before it is even possible to contact the broker, so we have broadened are search.
The one we will be looking at has a single CAT3206, which would not be my favorite, but I do prefer a single. It has about 4000 hours, the listing says it will cruise at around 8 knots, with consumption of around 1 gallon/nm, which seems high for this size and weight of boat with this size engine.
It has newer electronics and AGM's, canvas, etc.
Everyone on TF is always so helpful and knowledgeable, I am hoping to get some ideas about what to look for and what potential concerns are.
Thank you!
My wife and I are looking for something similar to this as well. Did you get a chance to see this one? Any thoughts on it - or is it now under contract? We looked at some older Hatteras's (1980's era) over in the Annapolis area but needed more work than we wanted to deal with. Thanks!
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Old 03-29-2022, 07:42 AM   #32
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It sounds very similar to the one my wife and I looked at; maybe the same one! There is a lot we liked about it - the beam provides a lot of space, as does single cabin/head, single engine - but had concerns about the engine and generator, and because all the salon seating was "lounge chair" type there was much less storage than we would have liked. Also had interior carpet in bad shape. All fixable, but we are in our 70's and not looking for a project at this point. For someone younger, willing to make changes over a period of time could be a very nice boat, providing you do a thorough survey and sea trial. We have had the same experience in terms of very slim pickings! Good luck.
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Old 03-29-2022, 08:12 AM   #33
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Thanks for your quick reply and all the details! I hope y'all are able to find your ideal boat too! I get torn about whether to wait and hope that inventory increases and prices drop - or just go for it! We are leaning towards just "go for it"! As they say: you only live once, and we're not promised tomorrow!! Thanks again!!
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Old 04-18-2022, 06:31 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Cartouche View Post
you can see by pictures in post 23 it is not that thick fiberglass both sides with a balsa sandwich in the middle I forgot one step when you remove stainless trim - there are then screws holding rub rail in - take a picture of location you remove them as there are a bunch of possibilities in the rub rail, then you will see narly joint. project well worth doing. It also helps with List issues
I want to install 2 cleats folding type close to the stern edge of the swim platform to tie off my inflatable dingy while shuttle back and forth from the boat to various site seeing locations. Is there enough deck to screw down the cleats? Should I use rivinuts or nutserts?
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Old 04-19-2022, 07:51 AM   #35
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There is about 2-2.5 inches around the edge that is all glass, about 1/4in thick. Then you hit the core, 1/8in glass each side with 1/2 core. I would always put backing plates on any cleat, screws and even bolts with smaller washers tend to pull or at least cause stress fractures. Buy a piece of 3/8 aluminum plate, cut about 1/2 in bigger than the foot print, drill and thread. Then add lock nuts to finish the connection. You then have a cleat that will hold your dinghy and not fail if something bigger ends up there.
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Old 04-19-2022, 08:11 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by jclays View Post
I want to install 2 cleats folding type close to the stern edge of the swim platform to tie off my inflatable dingy while shuttle back and forth from the boat to various site seeing locations. Is there enough deck to screw down the cleats? Should I use rivinuts or nutserts?
As you can see by the pictures attached the aft bolts are through bolted and are at the edge of the cavity, any further aft you are into solid fiberglass, and as a side note this is how i keep the dingy attached when not in use at an anchorage
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Old 04-19-2022, 03:54 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by captkev View Post
There is about 2-2.5 inches around the edge that is all glass, about 1/4in thick. Then you hit the core, 1/8in glass each side with 1/2 core. I would always put backing plates on any cleat, screws and even bolts with smaller washers tend to pull or at least cause stress fractures. Buy a piece of 3/8 aluminum plate, cut about 1/2 in bigger than the foot print, drill and thread. Then add lock nuts to finish the connection. You then have a cleat that will hold your dinghy and not fail if something bigger ends up there.
How do you thru bolt it without removing the top?
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Old 04-19-2022, 04:57 PM   #38
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Mine has an access hatch. As long as the cleat has a closed base, there is a tricky way the get a threaded plate behind the cleat by making a slot under the cleat. The slot only needs to be big enough to slide the narrow edge of the plate thru. Make the threaded backing plate. run a wire down thru one hole, up thru the slot, down thru the hole on the plate, up thru a hole on the other end, back down the slot and up the other hole in the deck. Then drop the plate thru the slot and pull up under the deck. Use long bolts to go thru the open holes and into the plate. Remove the wire and install the other bolts. seal everything and use lock tight. Not easy but I've done it a few times on other boats.
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Old 04-20-2022, 06:37 PM   #39
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what do you think of drilling the hole oversized. With a bent nail in a drill to hog out the core around the hole. Fill with thickened epoxy and install a threaded screw-in type insert.
when fully cured bolt in my cleats. just thinking of ways to blind mount the cleats.
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Old 04-20-2022, 07:58 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by captkev View Post
There is about 2-2.5 inches around the edge that is all glass, about 1/4in thick. Then you hit the core, 1/8in glass each side with 1/2 core. I would always put backing plates on any cleat, screws and even bolts with smaller washers tend to pull or at least cause stress fractures. Buy a piece of 3/8 aluminum plate, cut about 1/2 in bigger than the foot print, drill and thread. Then add lock nuts to finish the connection. You then have a cleat that will hold your dinghy and not fail if something bigger ends up there.
I like to butter the backing plate with thickened epoxy. That way the entire plate is in intimate contact with the deck. If there are any humps on the bottom of the deck the backing plate will bridge the humps and they will become stress points.
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