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Old 09-20-2021, 08:11 AM   #81
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We have been getting a fair amount of use of the boat and overall it has been running well. Since fixing the loose transmission output flange, the transmission has been retaining it's fluid, the engine oil level is stable (it was never losing oil but the SAE30 fluid leaking out of the transmission made me suspect some oil was coming from the engine), it has small leaks from the valve cover and probably a bit from the oil pan gasket but negligible amounts, I've added about 1 quart of oil all summer.

I do need to clean up and reseal my perko sea strainer, the gasket on top developed a leak and allowed air to be sucked in, starving my raw water pump and nearly overheating the engine. I made a gasket for the top whch solved the immediate problem but the whole thing needs to be disassembled, cleaned up and reassembled with the proper gaskets and a new plastic cylinder. I should have done earlier because the whole thing is green and ugly. I finally ordered the gaskets and cylinder.

Our longest trip of the season went pretty smoothly, only 4 hours away to Cambridge but still a milestone is gaining confidence in the drive train.

My oil pressure stays higher when I can keep the coolant temps at 175 or less, I'm going to switch to 20W-50 on my next oil change and also work on getting my raw water hose transitions a little smoother (slightly kinked at some molded 90's) in hopes of being able to run at or above 2k rpm and below 180 degrees coolant temp. I think soaking my exhaust manifold and intercooler with barnacle buster is in order as well.

I've been getting out to fish a little more often, with mixed results, hopefully the fall will provide some decent rock fishing, it can be hit or miss.
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Old 09-20-2021, 06:51 PM   #82
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We have been getting a fair amount of use of the boat and overall it has been running well. Since fixing the loose transmission output flange, the transmission has been retaining it's fluid, the engine oil level is stable (it was never losing oil but the SAE30 fluid leaking out of the transmission made me suspect some oil was coming from the engine), it has small leaks from the valve cover and probably a bit from the oil pan gasket but negligible amounts, I've added about 1 quart of oil all summer.

I do need to clean up and reseal my perko sea strainer, the gasket on top developed a leak and allowed air to be sucked in, starving my raw water pump and nearly overheating the engine. I made a gasket for the top whch solved the immediate problem but the whole thing needs to be disassembled, cleaned up and reassembled with the proper gaskets and a new plastic cylinder. I should have done earlier because the whole thing is green and ugly. I finally ordered the gaskets and cylinder.

Our longest trip of the season went pretty smoothly, only 4 hours away to Cambridge but still a milestone is gaining confidence in the drive train.

My oil pressure stays higher when I can keep the coolant temps at 175 or less, I'm going to switch to 20W-50 on my next oil change and also work on getting my raw water hose transitions a little smoother (slightly kinked at some molded 90's) in hopes of being able to run at or above 2k rpm and below 180 degrees coolant temp. I think soaking my exhaust manifold and intercooler with barnacle buster is in order as well.

I've been getting out to fish a little more often, with mixed results, hopefully the fall will provide some decent rock fishing, it can be hit or miss.
That's the same scenario we followed when we first got ours...the first few months of owning it, we stayed close to home and ended up replacing the starter that went bad but cranked one last time to get us home, and an engine water circulating pump that started leaking. The next year, in addition to the major boat rebuild work, was mostly electrical upgrading. I also replaced the engine seawater strainer but with the same ,less expensive though not as tough as a Perko, Raritan plastic unit that the boat originally had installed. We still cruised within a 3-4 hour comfort zone.
After that ,a turbo ,riser & exhaust manifold replacement really boosted our confidence and we took off for a week-long cruise. Everything performed flawlessly, with the exception of a couple of pretty substantial oil leaks appearing in our normally clean bilge. I figured out it happened after running above 1850 RPM but didn't have an idea why they appeared until talking with others on this forum that had similar issues after using synthetic oil. Coincidence or not, I had used a synthetic blend in my last change. J Leonard from here made me aware of a big culprit & I was able to reseal the starboard forward motor mount bolts and that stopped most of the leaking at the time. It seemed that ever since the oil change with synthetic, small leaks were appearing and our bilge was never 100% clean.
If we EVER get the boat back in one piece this year, with the engine gone through and the clutch rebuilt, in addition to some other substantial work we did while hauled out, our confidence level will be through the roof & we'll be comfortable going anywhere (as long as it's inland waters...a Mainship 34 isn't an ocean-loving craft) for as long as we want!
So, you're doing kind of like us. Take your time & get to know your boat and after a while, you'll know exactly what to expect from it. Just don't use synthetic oil!
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Old 09-20-2021, 08:17 PM   #83
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in hopes of being able to run at or above 2k rpm
Just bought a Mainship 34 MK I with the Perkins 6.354 160 hp. Love the boat. Have enjoyed following your thread. Also own a motorsailer with a 6.534 with 6000 hrs, 3000 by me. Still going strong, no issues. There are several schools of thought about best speed (rpms) to run the 6.354s. Some would say run them hard, last long time. Others including me would say back off a couple hundred rpms. Burn less fuel, use less oil, perhaps run a little cooler especially exhaust temperature, overall less stress. My experience so far with the Mainship is that the 160 hp is not enough to get the boat to plane, so it make sense to me to run at lower rpms. For what itís worth.
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Old 09-20-2021, 09:20 PM   #84
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Couple more thoughts. Have used Rotella (not synthetic) in the 6.354s. Either straight 30 or 10w40 depending on air and water temperature. Know others that do the same. Looks amazingly clear when pull dip stick. Seldom add oil between oil changes.

With regard to seaworthiness of the Mark I, agree not an open ocean boat. But have seen a number of them in the Bahamas. Pick a calm day.
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Old 09-27-2021, 08:02 AM   #85
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Just bought a Mainship 34 MK I with the Perkins 6.354 160 hp. Love the boat. Have enjoyed following your thread. Also own a motorsailer with a 6.534 with 6000 hrs, 3000 by me. Still going strong, no issues. There are several schools of thought about best speed (rpms) to run the 6.354s. Some would say run them hard, last long time. Others including me would say back off a couple hundred rpms. Burn less fuel, use less oil, perhaps run a little cooler especially exhaust temperature, overall less stress. My experience so far with the Mainship is that the 160 hp is not enough to get the boat to plane, so it make sense to me to run at lower rpms. For what itís worth.
I really have no plans to run it above 2k for prolonged times but I do want to ensure that it is capable of running at open throttle without running hot, that is what I consider the threshold for the cooling system to be operating properly. I don't plan to sell any time soon but know that any potential buyer would expect it to run at WOT without overheating.

On my first trip in my father's old MKIII, I foolishly stayed out in worsening conditions in a following sea, pretty consistent 3' with short intervals and the boat did respond well to more throttle and I ended up running at higher rpms for a prolonged time. Interestingly, just before I made my turn towards a tributary, I slowed down to 4-5 knots and the helm seems more responsive at this speed as well compared to 7-9 knots. My boat has a lower HP rating and running quicker for better response may never be an option but I want the engine ready for anything I throw at it. My boat sits a little lower in the stern to begin with and this may help. Most importantly, I've become a better judge of when to stay at the dock.

I got the perko sea strainer cleaned up and reassembled with new gaskets, new plastic cylinder and replaced the bronze/copper hardware with stainless for now. It is nice that it is rebuildable but honestly, it would have been more cost effective to replace it with a cheaper unit. There are too many points of failure on this design and the parts are expensive, I don't see any real advantage over most cheaper alternatives.
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Old 09-27-2021, 09:26 AM   #86
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Regarding sustained hi-RPM cruising, I'm out of luck because when the aftercooler went bad on ours, I opted to remove & bypass it. I'll only run it above 1850 for short bursts since the speed gain is minimal plus I don't have an EGT gauge and that's something that needs to be watched with no cooler inline.
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Old 09-27-2021, 10:18 AM   #87
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Regarding sustained hi-RPM cruising, I'm out of luck because when the aftercooler went bad on ours, I opted to remove & bypass it. I'll only run it above 1850 for short bursts since the speed gain is minimal plus I don't have an EGT gauge and that's something that needs to be watched with no cooler inline.
What prompted your replacement of the exhaust manifold? I really have no idea of the condition of mine. That and the aftercooler are the only remaning components of the cooling system I have not cleaned out or replaced. Since it is raw water cooled, I'm sure it should prior to failure but I'm not sure how I should judge that. My runabout has a 3.0 mercuiser with a combined intake and exhaust manifold, if that leaks the engine will ingest water immediately so I am just replacing it (even though I am going to sell it). On my perkins I can't tell if it is restricting flow or about to rust through. My exhaust is mostly under the waterline and I cannot see how much water I am circulating.

I have seen the price of the aftercooler and understand why you did away with it. Honestly, a naturally aspirated version of this engine would do everything I really need and reduce complexity. You don't get much more power from the turbo in this configuration. If I am going to contend with the maintaince of a turbo and raw water aftercooler, it should be on an engine with enough power to run 14knts sustained.
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Old 09-27-2021, 04:32 PM   #88
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What prompted your replacement of the exhaust manifold? I really have no idea of the condition of mine. That and the aftercooler are the only remaning components of the cooling system I have not cleaned out or replaced. Since it is raw water cooled, I'm sure it should prior to failure but I'm not sure how I should judge that. My runabout has a 3.0 mercuiser with a combined intake and exhaust manifold, if that leaks the engine will ingest water immediately so I am just replacing it (even though I am going to sell it). On my perkins I can't tell if it is restricting flow or about to rust through. My exhaust is mostly under the waterline and I cannot see how much water I am circulating.

I have seen the price of the aftercooler and understand why you did away with it. Honestly, a naturally aspirated version of this engine would do everything I really need and reduce complexity. You don't get much more power from the turbo in this configuration. If I am going to contend with the maintaince of a turbo and raw water aftercooler, it should be on an engine with enough power to run 14knts sustained.
You answered the question of what prompted the replacement of our exhaust manifold in the very next sentence. I didn't know the condition of it or it's history. I might have been replaced in the past but I kind of doubted it because the boat lived most of it's life in fresh to brackish waters. It was showing no signs of deterioration externally but I wasn't wasn't willing to gamble what could be a catastrophe just to try to squeeze a couple of more years out of it. It's like the clutch that I just had rebuilt. It was performing fine but I wanted to be sure it was going to continue to perform fine. Basically it's gotten to the point where a lot of the work we're doing is preventative maintenance.
You're spot on with the reason I didn't replace the aftercooler. If it was able to bump the horsepower beyond 200 , I might've replaced it. But even with a functioning cooler ,160 HP isn't enough to make any difference, other than increase the wake size.
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Old 09-27-2021, 05:48 PM   #89
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You answered the question of what prompted the replacement of our exhaust manifold in the very next sentence. I didn't know the condition of it or it's history. I might have been replaced in the past but I kind of doubted it because the boat lived most of it's life in fresh to brackish waters. It was showing no signs of deterioration externally but I wasn't wasn't willing to gamble what could be a catastrophe just to try to squeeze a couple of more years out of it. It's like the clutch that I just had rebuilt. It was performing fine but I wanted to be sure it was going to continue to perform fine. Basically it's gotten to the point where a lot of the work we're doing is preventative maintenance.
You're spot on with the reason I didn't replace the aftercooler. If it was able to bump the horsepower beyond 200 , I might've replaced it. But even with a functioning cooler ,160 HP isn't enough to make any difference, other than increase the wake size.
Makes sense, kind of what I figured but if there was some trick that someone had figured out like "remove flange A and feel the wall thickness" I would have been thrilled. I have no idea if mine is original or not and will plan on replacing it in the off season. I will disassemble the after cooler, rebuild and pressure test it.

People say to take them to a radiator shop for rebuild but I haven't seen a local radiator shop for 20 years, it is just like having a starter rebuilt, don't expect to find anyone still doing it locally.

I was a little hesitant to dump too much money into the supporting components of this engine until I had some more confidence that it isn't some time bomb and I should just save towards a repower but I'm pretty confident that the long block had enough life in it for me and it wouldn't be to bad to rebuild if need be. I am grateful to hear about avoiding synthetic oil for these, i have heard it in general about the seals in old engines being suceptable to damage but am glad for the reminder prior to making that mistake.

If a re-buildable starter or coolant pump for our backwards engines pops up on ebay, be forewarned that we may end up in a bidding war.

Thanks for comparing notes again.
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Old 09-27-2021, 07:24 PM   #90
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If a re-buildable starter or coolant pump for our backwards engines pops up on ebay, be forewarned that we may end up in a bidding war.

Thanks for comparing notes again.
Add injectors and fuel injection pump to that. Got a quote of $ 840 on my fuel injection pump service. Waiting on parts and a call.

More boat dollars....
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Old 09-27-2021, 07:34 PM   #91
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My injector pump was rebuild somewhat recently, i can look back in my briefcase full of receipts to find out. The transmission was also rebuilt but I believe it was done by the local mechanic and they failed to secure the output flange which led to the transmission leak I had, i am not impressed by any of the previous mechanic's work. I have no idea if the clutch plate was replaced at the time, based on everything else I have seen, I am guessing it wasn't.
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Old 10-12-2021, 07:26 AM   #92
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I resealed my upper Hynautic H50 helm pump over the weekend and figured I would share my experience here. Mine was slowly seeping around the steering shaft due to hardening of the inner shaft seal, it never dripped onto the deck but there was steering fluid on the pump and the dash where it mounted. I failed to take pictures but there is a pretty good youtube video available that I watched first:



I didn't make that video, that is one I watched and found helpful.

The seal kit is readily available, I bought mine from amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/REPLACEMENTKI...4039706&sr=8-1

There is a internal difference among the older and newer H50 helms with regards to the seals for the steering shaft but the kit includes the seals for either style. The helm that was resealed in the youtube video was not the one I had but the difference is very minor and you disassemble the helm the same way.

I'll probably start a new thread for off season maintenance. The boat is getting hauled out next week so I can get started on some fiberglass work prior to the weather getting cold and making projects difficult.
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