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Old 07-23-2021, 07:47 AM   #61
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Here are some more pics of the old expansion tank. Earlier I thought the aluminum was so thin and porous that the coolant was weaping through but now I believe it was all slow leaks at the old brittle hoses and at the freeze/expansion plug.
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Old 07-23-2021, 07:59 AM   #62
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Probably the most disturbing find was a lot of oily sludge settled at the bottom of the tank, there was also similar sludge in the overflow tank. It was thicker and heavier than oil and clean coolant was floating above it. At best case, this thing overheated at some point, lifted the head and pumped oil into the coolant system and while the head gasket was replaced, the coolant system was never adequately flushed out. At worst case, the head lifted and the head gasket was never replaced but the head sealed back up after cooling off, this seems far fetched but I don't have any records of the head gasket being replaced or sign of the head being removed.

I really need to check the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge, it does not overheat but it also does not carry good oil pressure, it carries about 45 psi at idle when cold and only about 20 psi when hot at idle and around 30 psi at cruise (1700-1800). It is pretty consistent at both upper and lower helm gauges. I changed the oil immediately after purchase and it has 15W40 in it now with less than 15 hours on it.

If the mechanical gauge proves the sending unit to be accurate, I'm looking at lifting the engine in the boat, dropping the pan and replacing the main and rod bearings. Hopefully I'll be able to nurse it through the rest of the season first.
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Old 07-30-2021, 08:36 AM   #63
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I finished replacing the heat exchanger tank. It took a bit longer than expected but that is par for the course every time I tear something apart. I removed that thermostat housing outlet and cleaned it up off of the engine and replaced the hose connections on the coolant side but was really not happy with the alignment of that pipe, it rises as it comes aft and makes for an poor fit at the tank, the new tank also has a 1 3/4" connection while the pipe is 2". I ended up using a 1 1/2" to 2" adapter hose section (with a bit of stretching) sold for automotive use which fits both nipples snugly but doesn't have much overlap and room to install two hose clamps as I would prefer. This of course would not sink the boat as it is on the coolant side of the system but I'm just not thrilled with it. I'm planning to do away with the pipe and go with all hose between the tank and thermostat housing, preferably a radiator hose with the right sizes on each end that happens to be the right length.

One off topic observation: Many people looking at these old boats are concerned about the parts availability and degree of support for these old perkins. That is a fair concern and especially deserved for the manicooler equipped units but to date, I have have received parts quickly at reasonable prices. Ironically, a friend has a pair of big four stroke yamaha outboards on his boat which are far from obsolete and one of the most common powerplants in my area. I believe his boat has been in the shop twice this season and he is still waiting on a relay for a starter. I believe it has been 3 or 4 weeks now.
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Old 07-30-2021, 11:26 AM   #64
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I am not sure about what is normal for underway oil pressure on your engine, but the value you mentioned is well within what my brother and I have observed for decades on our four Lehman 120s.
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Old 07-30-2021, 12:04 PM   #65
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I am not sure about what is normal for underway oil pressure on your engine, but the value you mentioned is well within what my brother and I have observed for decades on our four Lehman 120s.
Thanks for that, it seems to be on the low end of acceptable specifications from what I've read but as long as it stays consistent, I'll be ok with that. I've yet to run the thing at an even an easy cruise pace (1800) longer than two hours. On my fathers T6.354.4, we ran the thing pretty regularly at 2200 rpm for hours and never saw less than 60 psi. Honestly we just ran it the way the previous owner had, eventually I came to accept that 1900-2000 was nearly as fast and much quieter & cheaper. It only had oil pressure and temp at one station and we never had a reason to test mechanically but I have a skewed basis of comparison I guess. When I first brought home (before I changed the oil), I have no idea how old the oil was and I believe I saw 15 psi when I was docking it. It just dawned on me the other day that the temperature and low oil pressure alarm is not functioning on this thing and I need to hook that back up.

As pessimistic as I sound, I am actually slowly growing in confidence with this thing and planning to start venturing further from home. The last thing I want to do is expose my wife and 3 kids to a break down. Now that I have what I consider to be an adequate anchor, I'm also less leery of putting this thing through it's paces.
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Old 07-31-2021, 06:47 PM   #66
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Came down to the boar to knock out a couple projects with my 5 year old helper while my girls swam at the pool. Fist peoject was a breeze, topping off the hynautic ateering reservoir. Next planned chore was installing an ACR and checking my alternator output. It didn't seem to be putting out acording to the guages at the helm. Went to grab a cold beer from the fridge and had a warm and smelly surprise. Sometime in the last few days, the inverter died including the pass through function so my fridge was getting no power and died. I had planned to a standalone battery charger but had bot gotten around. This is a major flaw of the inverter/charger combo in nbmy opinion but I do like the convenience of pass through power. I have orgered a new unit, a little bigger and this time a pure sine unit. I bench tested my alternator and it isn't doing squat. I believe it will actually take the same unit as in my bow rider so I can try that out to rule out a wiring issue.
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Old 07-31-2021, 07:35 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by Gdavid View Post
If the mechanical gauge proves the sending unit to be accurate, I'm looking at lifting the engine in the boat, dropping the pan and replacing the main and rod bearings. Hopefully I'll be able to nurse it through the rest of the season first.
I wouldn't get out too far on this. Old electrical gauges are not to be trusted on absolute values in my experience.

Are there other possible sources of the sludge? I'm no expert, but maybe it's just a lot of years without regular or thorough cooling system flushes?

Thanks for sharing BTW. You'll have a good boat when you're done, as I'm sure you know. It's nice to see care being lavished on these older classics.
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Old 07-31-2021, 08:18 PM   #68
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You know, I was toying with replacing the alternator with a higher output balmar and while having 70A output would be nice (I would have to change from a single v-belt to a dual or a serpentine belt if I wanted any more output than 100A), the stock Delco 65A alternator for $165 serves us fine. At our cruise of 1650, the output is around 45A so after a couple of hours of running, the batteries are charged (we only have a 270AH bank and that is the bare minimum with which we can get by). The alternator does get kind of hot, which I know will shorten it's life ,but for that little bit of $$ it costs, we just keep a spare onboard.
Oh, one of the best things I've added was an el-cheapo E-bay SOC monitor. $35 with a 300A shunt and we can now keep track of the battery usage while at anchor and the output of the alternator while underway.
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Old 07-31-2021, 08:40 PM   #69
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Oh, one of the best things I've added was an el-cheapo E-bay SOC monitor. $35 with a 300A shunt and we can now keep track of the battery usage while at anchor and the output of the alternator while underway.
Agreed. Everyone should have one.
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Old 07-31-2021, 08:41 PM   #70
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I am going to have to lookup that ebay SOC meter. I would like to have one but I wasn't about to spring for a balmar.

I swapped out my alternator tonight, I was surpeised that it had the same alternator as my 3.0 mecruiser. Maybe not what belongs there but it was a direct replacement for what I had before. When I was went to attach the wire that was in the "earth" position, I got a spark and then measured 6 V between that wire and the engine block, something is screwy. I left it disconnected and taped up for now. I did not start up to check whether it is charging as it was a bit late at my marina and alot of people are around enjoying the beautiful weather.

I wanted a standalone charger anyway so I think I will pick one up tonorrow from west marine and have a bit of redundancy after I get my new inverter/charger which is on the way from defender. I fully expect a christmas card from Defender this season.
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Old 07-31-2021, 08:46 PM   #71
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I have a Balmar SG300 on my sailboat. Recently I put a Victron bluetooth shunt on my trawler, and it's great. I like the mobile app. Very simple install and it was something like $125.
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Old 07-31-2021, 09:27 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by boomerang View Post
You know, I was toying with replacing the alternator with a higher output balmar and while having 70A output would be nice (I would have to change from a single v-belt to a dual or a serpentine belt if I wanted any more output than 100A), the stock Delco 65A alternator for $165 serves us fine. At our cruise of 1650, the output is around 45A so after a couple of hours of running, the batteries are charged (we only have a 270AH bank and that is the bare minimum with which we can get by). The alternator does get kind of hot, which I know will shorten it's life ,but for that little bit of $$ it costs, we just keep a spare onboard.
Oh, one of the best things I've added was an el-cheapo E-bay SOC monitor. $35 with a 300A shunt and we can now keep track of the battery usage while at anchor and the output of the alternator while underway.
An alternator upgrade down the line is definitely a consideration but I have more pressing needs for now. Honestly, with a fully electic galley, I don't see ever going to long without running the generator. I think I would like to pursue a engine driven cooling compressor for refrigeration first. That would be a great solution to my largest energy requirement, along with some solar panels.
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Old 08-02-2021, 06:43 AM   #73
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The boat is somewhat back together after my inverter fail. Not having a backup means of charging the batteries while waiting for my new charger/inverter unit to arrive bothered me so I rigged up this temporary setup to be able to connect a trickle charger/maintainer to my combined house/starter set. It is woefully undersized but the boat is just sitting at the dock with everything off but the bilge pumps. My 4 group 31 batteries sit on opposite sides of the boat and the only place they all connected before was on the inverter's posts via four sets of 2 gauge wiring, all equal in length. Without the inverter in place and without any terminal posts to tie them together, I rigged up this setup out of expanded PVC board.
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Old 08-02-2021, 06:57 AM   #74
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When I came down to install my temporary battery maintainer, I also wanted to check the output of the alternator I had just replaced. The good news is that it put out power but something was still wrong, the case was hot and while I did not notice until after the engine was running, it had only run for about 30 seconds and I don't see how it could have heated up so fast. I believe the field wire had current running to it all night, after installing the unit. I need to dig into the dash and trace my ignition switch to figure out where it is pulling power from and which color line is going to the field wire. There has been all kinds of "customization" to the engine's wiring harness over the years and I have some clean up to do. I just disconnected everything and taped up the ends of the wires for now, my 5 year old helper was out of patience and rushing through wiring troubleshooting is not a good idea.
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Old 08-02-2021, 07:49 AM   #75
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Please tell me your battery charger isn't set on 6 volts.....
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Old 08-02-2021, 07:54 AM   #76
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Please tell me your battery charger isn't set on 6 volts.....
I didn't think so but it sure looks like it in the picture
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Old 08-02-2021, 07:05 PM   #77
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Please tell me your battery charger isn't set on 6 volts.....
Solly, you were right, it was on 6V, I don't think it did any harm to the battery bank but couldn't bee good for the $20 charger. I just unplugged it for tonight, hopefully my new charger/inverter will show up tomorrow.

I really appreciate you noticing it, the charger was hot and not a safe situation.
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Old 08-02-2021, 07:53 PM   #78
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+1 for the home team !! Us classic Mainship guys gotta stick together !

Seriously, just glad to pay one back to somebody on here ! I've learned sooooo much from others.
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Old 08-04-2021, 08:11 PM   #79
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I got my electric al system back together. New Xantrex Freedom XC 2000, seems like an upgrade so far, it is pure sine versus my old modified sine wave unit. It also has far more features and settings i don't know if it will be as robust, the old promariner withstood alot of abuse before I bought the boat and I can't fault it for its untimely demise. I also got my alternator functioning, there is still a mess of custom wiring on the engine loom that I don't care for or fully understand.

I do like that the new inverter has settings to charge lithium phosphate batteries, if I keep the boat very long, I believe I will go this route. I still plan to add a standalone charger but will just carrry an automotive portable unit as a backup.
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Old 08-22-2021, 08:21 PM   #80
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I have been losing transmission fluid, I use 30 weight engine oil as that is what appeared to be in it at purchase. The leak was getting worse and turned out to be the output flange nut completely lose. Just like the pinion bearing on a rear differential in a car, the nut tension is critical for keeping the bearing from running too tight to too loose and beating itself to death. I don't think it was run like this for long and I have rarely run the thing up to higher loads and even then for very short periods as I was checking out the cooling system but I will probably replace bearing in the off season. For now, I cleaned and reassembled the hub with RTV to seal the splines and thread locker on the nut. It is running smoother and with the hub centered the seal has a chance to do it's job. I have a new seal on the way but it is unlikely to arrive in time for me to install it prior to a trip planned next weekend.
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