Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-22-2021, 02:50 PM   #41
ABL
Member
 
City: Wakefield, RI
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 15
When i say 8 footers, i'm talking huge rollers. I do my boating off the Massachusetts and Rhode Island coastline.....when the wind picks up from the Southwest, my rides can get pretty squirrely trying to get home, or pounding into it trying to get to Block Island. We now plan for the overnight no matter what. Sunrise cruises home are calm and beautiful. Like you Gdavid, trying not to work around a dictated schedule.
ABL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2021, 07:38 AM   #42
Guru
 
City: Owings, Md
Vessel Name: Graceland
Vessel Model: Mainship 34 MK1
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 898
I failed to take many pictures of my hull patch but here are a couple of my attempts at matching the gel coat. It is a bit of an art and I am not an artist. I might post them in the wrong order but the better match is what I hope to be the final coat, assuming I don't burn thru is when sanding it.

I am not going to drive myself nuts for a perfect match, all but a couple square inches will be hidden under boot stripe or bottom paint.
Attached Thumbnails
PXL_20210623_005227892_compress53.jpg   PXL_20210622_221019137_compress62.jpg  
Gdavid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2021, 07:39 AM   #43
Guru
 
City: Owings, Md
Vessel Name: Graceland
Vessel Model: Mainship 34 MK1
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 898
The first pic is the "final" attempt at matching the gel.
Gdavid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2021, 10:00 AM   #44
Dwk
Senior Member
 
Dwk's Avatar
 
City: Chesapeake Bay
Vessel Name: Patty Ann
Vessel Model: Mainship 34 MK1 1980
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 313
Don't drive yourself nuts,looks great!
__________________
David
Dwk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2021, 07:15 AM   #45
Guru
 
City: Owings, Md
Vessel Name: Graceland
Vessel Model: Mainship 34 MK1
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 898
Almost ready to go back in the water. Didn't get to some of the elective work like installing my new anchor pulpit but I am itching (literally) to get the boat back in the water and enjoy the thing.

My entire boot stripe is fading and in bad shape, I would really like to remove the entire thing but it won't happen on this haul out. For some reason the section I applied in gloss came out flat which kind of a small good fortune because it matches the rest of the faded stripe. I got my new bronze thru hull in place about 7-8" high than the old position, as high as the deck will allow. I considered mounting it further forward where 8 could make it higher, remove the trim panel in the port saloon and behind my futon but didn't want too much restriction of flow.

I spent a marathon session on the bottom paint Saturday, I gave the entire bottom at least a light sand and was dead set to get a coat on everything not encumbered by the boat stands. Unfortunately I found a poorly repaired blister to port of the prop and just couldn't look past it. I ended up grinding out about 1 square foot. It appears that west system filler was used to fill damage from blisters or perhaps a crab trap wrapped around the prop. The filler was a orangish yellow like west system low density fairing filler, it may be something else but it had voids above it holding moisture. It was all pretty shallow, no signs of damage from inside.

I cleaned the area out. Filled in 2 layers of mat after sanding that out, I faired the area with thickened gel coat. I still need to give this a quick once over with the sander and then apply the bottom paint in this area. Gel coat really offers no more protection to moisture than bare glass but this will do until it is stripped for barrier coat in the fall.
Attached Thumbnails
PXL_20210628_104047528_compress91.jpg   PXL_20210628_104054591_compress42.jpg  
Gdavid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2021, 11:58 AM   #46
Guru
 
City: San Diego, CA
Vessel Name: Second Chance
Vessel Model: 42' Uniflite Double Cabin
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 822
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gdavid View Post
My entire boot stripe is fading and in bad shape, I would really like to remove the entire thing but it won't happen on this haul out. For some reason the section I applied in gloss came out flat which kind of a small good fortune because it matches the rest of the faded stripe.
High humidity or moisture on the surface before the paint dries can cause gloss top coats to dry to a flat finish. I've had that happen, not great when you really were expecting a gloss finish.
sbman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2021, 12:31 PM   #47
Guru
 
City: Owings, Md
Vessel Name: Graceland
Vessel Model: Mainship 34 MK1
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 898
This is the final product of the engine cooling intake (prior to installing the new hose). You can see the intended effect of a straight shot to clear instructions. While I am sure that I am more likely to suck grass or bags into the internal strainer than if I had an intake grate, I feel that it will be much easier to clear. In the spring, the water colder than I would prefer to get in, during much of the summer there are likely to be jellyfish and by the time they are gone, the water is cold again. I would much prefer clear any obstruction from inside. I will definitely install a hull mounted strainer before attempting to transit anything like the dismal swamp.

The boat was relaunched yesterday, so I was able to pick her up after work and put her in her slip. Glad to have it back in time for 4th of July festivities which I will be enjoying from the comfort and safety of my slip.
Attached Thumbnails
PXL_20210628_222611797_compress5.jpg   PXL_20210628_222618770_compress80.jpg  
Gdavid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2021, 12:44 PM   #48
Guru
 
City: San Diego, CA
Vessel Name: Second Chance
Vessel Model: 42' Uniflite Double Cabin
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 822
What do you plan to put on the vertical portion to make it easy to insert something for obstruction clearing?
sbman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2021, 01:50 PM   #49
Guru
 
boomerang's Avatar
 
City: Kilmarnock VA
Vessel Name: Wandering Star
Vessel Model: psn40
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 1,123
Do the seacock flange bolts go all the way through the hull to the outside or did you incorporate threads in the mount plate you built? I went through the hull with countersunk flathead bolts for the A/C pickup and holding tank discharge but I'm still contemplating how I'll mount the engine intake seacock. The less holes ,the better, AFAIC.
__________________
-Shawn-
boomerang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2021, 01:58 PM   #50
Guru
 
City: Owings, Md
Vessel Name: Graceland
Vessel Model: Mainship 34 MK1
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 898
Quote:
Originally Posted by boomerang View Post
Do the seacock flange bolts go all the way through the hull to the outside or did you incorporate threads in the mount plate you built? I went through the hull with countersunk flathead bolts for the A/C pickup and holding tank discharge but I'm still contemplating how I'll mount the engine intake seacock. The less holes ,the better, AFAIC.
They do not go through the hull, I threaded the fiberglass mounting plate. I agree with you that the fewer holes the better. I will probably fabricate some sort of brace for this whole assembly, (from the top to the stringer) but the wire reinforced hose that connects it to the strainer does offer some degree of support.
Gdavid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2021, 02:11 PM   #51
Guru
 
City: Owings, Md
Vessel Name: Graceland
Vessel Model: Mainship 34 MK1
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 898
Quote:
Originally Posted by sbman View Post
What do you plan to put on the vertical portion to make it easy to insert something for obstruction clearing?
There is a bronze tapered thread plug there, it has a square head. I keep pipe wrenches onboard to adjust the prop shaft packing but I plan to keep the correct box end wrench for this as well. A scrub brush handle is a close enough fit to clear any obstruction.
Gdavid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2021, 01:43 PM   #52
Guru
 
City: Owings, Md
Vessel Name: Graceland
Vessel Model: Mainship 34 MK1
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 898
My haul out is over but the maintenance backlog on this thing is still very much a project in process. I figure I'll continue adding to this thread for the sake of comparing notes, especially for the other classic mainshippers.

After getting the boat back in the water, I installed my new AC unit and I'm very satisfied with it. It is a little on the small side but if I keep the saloon shades pulled, it will stay cool at the dock, it really wouldn't be able to keep up on a hot day with after the engine room is hot and the shades are up but that is a lot to ask. Eventually, I'd like to repair the unit I removed or just buy a second and add another zone for the trunk cabin and V Berth area to really be able to cool the boat down at will.

I started replacing my oil and transmission cooler, I'm finding a hodgepodge of cooling line diameter variation. It is 1.5" from the strainer to the aftercooler, then the transmission cooler that was added is 1.25" diameter, and then it steps down further to a 1" combination oil cooler and transmission cooler where the transmission side is abandoned. Then it continues as 1" through the raw water pump, through the heat exchanger and I didn't really check the sizes past that. The new oil cooler and transmission cooler that I'm adding is 1.5" so this will simplify things a little but it is still going to step down to 1" at the pump. I suspect that someone added the aftercooler to my engine after the fact. I after a real close look at just how bad my expansion tank is, I bit the bullet and ordered a replacement from mrcool.com this morning. The tube bundle that connects to it looks quite new but the tank is in bad shape with areas that looks porous, and while it is not wet on the outside, there is residue from what looks like coolant seeping through.

Prior to tearing the cooling system apart, my wife and I were able to sneak away for a couple nights and it was our first time testing out the boat's systems at anchor overnight. My first error/surprise was leaving the fresh water pump on underway and apparently there was a loose connection on the hot water side which blew apart, emptied the tank into the bilge and left the pump running. Fortunately it didn't kill the pump and it was easy to reattach the line and properly tighten the hose clamp so I don't have this adventure again. I should keep the pump off underway as a matter of habit unless in use but it really shouldn't have come undone. Fortunately we were never far from a marina and refilling the tank was only a minor inconvenience.

I found my battery life in running the refrigerator a little disappointing. I expected it to run the fridge via the inverter for 18-24 hours but in practice found it to be 8-10 hours. My battery bank is 4 - group 31 AMG's with a nominal total capacity of 420 AH. My house bank is primarily serviced by a promariner 1500 QS, modified sine wave inverter/charger unit. It came with the boat and I am keeping it for now until I decide what direction I want to go. I believe part of my problem was having it set for the wrong battery profile, there are two AGM profiles to choose from and I inadvertently selected one that was only charging to 13.4 volts, I've switched it to another profile that should got to 13.8 volt, this should extend the performance. The alternator was also running through a diode type isolator which really kills performance and I believe that I'm actually loosing voltage underway unless the generator is running. I'm going to change this to an Automatic charging relay and possibly upgrade the alternator, I'm also planning to add flexible solar panels to the bimini on the bridge. If that doesn't yield the performance I'm looking for, I'll be upgrading the charger/inverter so that I'm bringing the batteries back up to a higher voltage, quickly during breakfast and dinner when I'm running the generator and potentially making AC power a little more efficiently.

I went ahead and swapped out my old danforth anchor for a rocna vulcan 20 just in time for our trip and I'm very glad I did, it turned out to be a windy weekend with a couple other boats in the anchorage (Rhode River) dragging.

Overall, I'm pleased with the boat and glad that I can enjoy it now while making my plans for future improvements along the way.
Gdavid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2021, 01:52 PM   #53
Guru
 
City: San Diego, CA
Vessel Name: Second Chance
Vessel Model: 42' Uniflite Double Cabin
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 822
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gdavid View Post

The alternator was also running through a diode type isolator which really kills performance and I believe that I'm actually loosing voltage underway unless the generator is running. I'm going to change this to an Automatic charging relay and possibly upgrade the alternator...
You might look into one of Sterling's Battery to Battery chargers, or one of Victron's DC-DC chargers instead of an ACR. I think you'll find that it's a much more effective system than simply joining the banks with a relay.
sbman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2021, 07:11 AM   #54
Guru
 
City: Owings, Md
Vessel Name: Graceland
Vessel Model: Mainship 34 MK1
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 898
This is the pitiful state of the expansion tank. There is a ten day lead time on the new tank, I will continue to put the rest of the cooling system back together but probably won't run it again until I get the new tank is in place.
Attached Thumbnails
PXL_20210713_133909087_compress45.jpg  
Gdavid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2021, 07:56 AM   #55
Guru
 
boomerang's Avatar
 
City: Kilmarnock VA
Vessel Name: Wandering Star
Vessel Model: psn40
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 1,123
I appreciate you keeping us up to date with your maintenance and improvements. Just as you said, it's of special interest to those of us with the same boat as yours.
You might've mentioned it previously, but what refrigerator do you have? An inverter, even a late-model one, is still not super efficient. I don't miss the dumb old under-the-counter Norcold we used to have. The one we have now (the brand escapes me and I'm too lazy to walk down to the boat & look) has a Danfoss DC compressor which seems to be a little more efficient and only uses about 3 amps while cooling. It is still a college-dorm room size but we make out ok with it and can stay on the hook for a couple of days before the 270 ah house bank is down to 50%. Keep in mind thats also using the fresh water pump, fans , lights etc.

Where did you mount your AC unit & what size is it? Ours is 10k mounted outboard of the refrigerator on a shelf I built and it keeps the salon comfortable on hot days. 10k doesn't pull the temps down to 70 when it's in the 90's but it draws lot's of humidity out of the air (I plumbed the condensate drain into the shower sump & I hear it come on often). It really helps to have the blinds drawn too. I know it's undersized but it's what I had and I can't say that we aren't satisfied with it's performance. It could use another duct but we make out ok with it for now with a strategically placed fan or two to direct the air across the salon & also up forward.

I'm procrastinating but I guess we'll haul out next week & tackle the engine spruce-up. I'm planning on a few unexpected surprises but when I strip all of the bolted on stuff off to facilitate the engines removal, I'm hoping we don't encounter any major cooling system problems, to be specific,the oil cooler & perkins heat exchanger/expansion tank. Most of the other stuff has been replaced so I'm hoping we won't go too far over budget.
__________________
-Shawn-
boomerang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2021, 08:37 AM   #56
Guru
 
City: Owings, Md
Vessel Name: Graceland
Vessel Model: Mainship 34 MK1
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 898
I don't recall the brand and model but the fridge is a 120v AC only dorm room sized unit. I am sure that it is not efficient but it is already on place and if the modified sine wave inverter kills it, I really won't be out much. It is a bit bigger than the stock ”never cold” but fits under the counter. Eventually, I would like to build a proper top loading icebox into the galley with multiple cold plates. I would use thru hull condensers that dump the heat outside of the boat rather then heating up the cabin. I would also like the flexibility to run a belt driven compressor. All of this is really beyond the needs of a weekend cruiser but is the direction I would go before going crazy with a high end battery and inverter system to power an inefficient fridge.

My air conditioning is mounted to starboard just outside of the lower helm station. It is on a shelf such that it is pretty tight below the side deck and then the whole area is boxes in with white expanded PVC trim panel. Below that shelf are the AC voltage panel, the generator panel and a blue seas breaker that is wired online between the shore power and the generator panel. The install looks to have been pretty recent and probably not the original location. There was a 16k btu cruise air unit here that worked intermittently then the panel would start to go haywire and it the compressor would quit. I replaced it with a 14k btu Marine Aire unit
, The footprint was slightly larger and I had to adjust the carpentry. They rigged up an odd but clever ducting for it, there is a plenum box with vertical louvers that can be closed off just aft of the unit on the starboard side of the saloon, flex duct connects the unit to this and there is also flex duct running forward to the head and the v berth are. When the louvers are closed off, air is forced to run forward to feed the head and v berth. It kind of works but there is a lot of restriction in that long flex duct run.

Outboard of the fridge, to port below the counter top is empty. This is were the unit was located on my father's mark 3 as well as your boat. If I can revive the cruise air, I will probably install it here.

Now that my new unit is up and running, I am leaving it on all the time set to 82 degrees even unattended. This makes life easier on the fridge and keeps the cabin tolerable when I step aboard (usually to work on it).
Gdavid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2021, 06:42 AM   #57
Guru
 
boomerang's Avatar
 
City: Kilmarnock VA
Vessel Name: Wandering Star
Vessel Model: psn40
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 1,123
I forgot to remark on your new anchor. We bought the same Rocna Vulcan, except a 15 & not a 20 as yours. We previously had a 35lb Delta & we were happy with it's holding characteristics in the mostly mud & sometimes sandy mud bottoms where we anchored. We put the Delta to the test several times with squalls and multiple boats rafting alongside so I figured the 15kg Vulcan would suffice. I guarantee you'll sleep soundly with the 20! The only time we've gotten a chance to test ours overnight was over the July 4th holiday and it was flat-calm the whole time & I don't think the chain ever even came tight, much less test the anchor holding! I do know it continues to hold with a super short scope because we anchored off of our local beach for a couple hours one afternoon in 15-20 mph winds and the damn thing didn't want to let go until we were over top of it!
We chose a Vulcan because of it's one piece welded design. I'm not enthralled with the nuts & bolts method of securing the fluke to the shank and the roll bar thing on the regular Rocna. Again, for me, the less hardware ,the better. I think we'll be happy with it when we start using it in earnest later this season.
It'll be interesting to compare anchoring notes in the future.
__________________
-Shawn-
boomerang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2021, 07:49 AM   #58
Guru
 
City: Owings, Md
Vessel Name: Graceland
Vessel Model: Mainship 34 MK1
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 898
The 20 kg vulcan is probably overkill for my boat but I am in the process of upgrading the anchor platform and windlass anyway so I figured I would oversize it and be done with it. My parent's mainship 390 came with the vulcan 20 and I'm quite impressed with it, that boat is significantly heavier and has more windage than our Mark 1's so I knew it would be more than enough anchor for my needs (no, I did not steal their anchor, I bought my own).

My boat came with a powerwinch windlass that has a smooth drum and requires being tailed like a sailboat winch. This makes it a two person operation and frankly it is just as easy to pull in the line by hand until the rode becomes vertical and at that point, I'm almost to the chain, which the drum can't handle anyway. The winch also has a toggle switch right on it that is really easy to turn on by accident when handling bow lines, rather than adding a more convenient disconnect switch in the boat. I just disconnected the wiring for now and am replacing with a lewmar profish 1000 that will handle chain or line remotely. I probably won't get around to completing this project till the fall so I'm just pulling it by hand for now.

Running the boat while I pull the anchor is my daughter Lilly's special job and she is getting quite good at it. When I first started working on charter boats, only about half of the boats carried a windlass and on a typical day I would set and retrieve the ground tackle 2-4 times for a 40' charter boat in 30' of water so I go about pulling the anchor with minimal effort, I only retrieve line with no load on it and tie it off tight when the rode is vertical and let the boat to the work of breaking it free. I am also lazy about cleaning the anchor so I'll leave the boat in reverse until the anchor and chain has cleaned itself as long as I have room in the anchorage to do so.

I have not replaced my rode yet either, it only has about 5' of chain. I haven't decided how much chain I plan to go with, probably 110-120' which is plenty of scope for most of the anchoring that I do but I'll have another 100' 3 strand twisted to back it up.
Gdavid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2021, 07:49 AM   #59
Guru
 
City: Owings, Md
Vessel Name: Graceland
Vessel Model: Mainship 34 MK1
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 898
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gdavid View Post
This is the pitiful state of the expansion tank. There is a ten day lead time on the new tank, I will continue to put the rest of the cooling system back together but probably won't run it again until I get the new tank is in place.
Well, I made a liar out of myself. I managed to get the new oil and transmission cooler installed and took the boat out and put some more hours on it. The job would have been more straight forward if I had measured the oil cooler more carefully and ordered the exact configuration as the one I had. Instead I ended up with a slightly longer unit with larger diameter raw water connections. In the end this should improve the oil cooling capacity but it did complicate the installation. My expansion tank for the engine coolant side of the system should arrive Wednesday. The heat exchanger bundle that bolts to it was replaced recently, I'm sure the receipt for that work is somewhere in the old suitcase of receipts that came with the boat. The tube bundle appears to be a bit shorter than the original as the mounting bracket for it is now in a location that a hose clamp interferes with one of the cooling line connections, I'll try and reconfigure this bracket when I have the exchanger removed.

I broke my engine oil dipstick tube in the process of cleaning up and repainting the port side of the engine while I had the raw water pump removed. It had been a bit wobbly but I thought it was just a bit loose, turns out that it was rusting through just above the hydraulic line nut that secures the tube. It turned out to be easy to replace, a 3/8" section of brake line cut to fit works perfect, save and reuse the line fitting that was on the original. A dripping raw water pump provides a perfect opportunity to rust out this tube. My father's perkins had a dipstick on either side of the engine, when his rusted out, we just plugged the hole and used the starboard side dipstick. His engine had the manicooler so we checked the coolant level on that side of the engine anyway.

At times, it feels like I still have an endless list of repairs and upgrades for this boat but occasionally I stop and look at what I've checked off the list so far and feel a little better. I am thankful that I did not overextend myself buying a more expensive or complex boat. While I've been dumping money into parts and materials on a pretty fast pace, nothing has been a major surprise so far and I'm glad I had a good idea of the cost of maintaining an old boat before I took the reigns to this old nag.

I see posts from guys and gals shopping for trawlers and/or motor cruisers asking about fuel consumption and I cannot help but think that they missing the big picture. There is no way I would be comfortable dumping the amount of money it would cost to maintain and repair this boat if I had to pay for someone else's labor, it would be outrageous but some of the questions that are asked of boat shoppers (many of which are asking about 30-40 year old models) lead me to suspect that they would be hiring out for every job. This is were it starts to make sense to spend a lot more and buy a much newer boat I guess.

Sorry about the rambling.
Gdavid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2021, 06:57 AM   #60
Guru
 
City: Owings, Md
Vessel Name: Graceland
Vessel Model: Mainship 34 MK1
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 898
I've about halfway or better through installing my new heat exchange expansion tank. I bought it from Mr.cool.com and it showed up in about 1 week. I had been warned of a 10 day lead time but apparently there must have been one on the shelf at their manufacturer.

As promised, the tank was a direct replacement and the threaded bolt holes all lined up perfectly. There are 8 - 1/4" 20 bolts that mount the tube bundle into the expansion tank and there are 2 more bolts on the forward end of the tank to secure it to the mounting bracket (I don't recall the size, probably 3/8", I reused the old ones). I should have planned ahead and ordered the 2" hose for the connections on the coolant side as mine were brittle and due for replacement, Defender is getting that out to me quickly like they always due (unless backordered). The tank and bundle are in place and connected to the raw water side, I just need to button the coolant side back up.

I had originally planned to refinish my existing expansion tank but the more I looked at it prior to removal the more skeptical I was of the remaining wall thickness and I loathe having my boat out commission for any period during the boating season so I went with a new tank. I cleaned out the tank and it probably could have been saved, there is an expansion plug on the forward end that is painted over and flush to the surface, mine was nearly rusted out from the inside which tell me that the coolant was not frequently changed and perhaps the coolant level was left low with air exposure from the inside. It looked solid from the outside but a couple taps with a hammer put multiple holes in this expansion plug. There is a lip that it sits in, cast into the aluminum tank. I did not realize this and removed the freeze plug by hammering a chisel on the edge of the plug to drive it loose and remove it, I damaged this lip, separating a portion from the rest of the tank. It could probably be repaired, repainted and used as a spare.

The thermostat housing was pretty rough looking so I've removed, wire wheeled the outside and filled in some pitting on the sealing surface with JB weld. I'll probably end up replacing it eventually but there is plenty of metal left to it and I'm comfortable reusing it after I finish painting it.
Gdavid is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Trawler Port Captains
Port Captains are TF volunteers who can serve as local guides or assist with local arrangements and information. Search below to locate Port Captains near your destination. To learn more about this program read here: TF Port Captain Program





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:14 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2006 - 2012